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d-brodgtst

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    CARS!!!!!........

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    for sale-180 type x
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    daniel

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  1. do you still run a standard ecu?if so the extra airflow from the higher boost could be upsetting the ecu and messing with the mixtures,hesitation/flat spot because the ecu is pushin a bit too much fuel in for the extra air, its just one of many possibilities,most of them are mentioned in the thred anyway,i just thought id add that,simple test,turn boost back to stock then see if it still hesitates,if it does then im wrong on that part...
  2. totally agree,it does suck and you shuld get it checked,but monitor it for a while if dosh is tight, let me know how you get on...very interested to know the outcome as a couple of mates just bought 32gtr's...just PM me....
  3. could be worth a chat,it all depends on if they have warranty on the work they performed,otherwise your pretty much up that creek,
  4. srry but im agreeing with andy on this,monitor it every day,when it starts consuming a lot of oil ie it burns 1/2 to a full litre in say a wk then id worry bout pullin the head off,i suggest you start saving some money...the heads comin off at some point...
  5. my bad,slow on the reply, i see oil on the thread of the plug on plenty of cars,at least 1 a day,culd be oil leaking from rocker seals,it doesnt normally come from the chamber,oil in the chamber normally ends up in the exhaust,id be inclined to agree with the valve stem seal comment,check them,could be leaking which is why you may have gotten the slightly higher comp reading on 5,
  6. agreed, where is the oil on the plug,this is true most engines wont blow smoke when at NOT,more info plz
  7. whats the deal with ecus?why is every1 so in love with the pfc?i thought the haltech was better?and whats the deal with this ViPEC thing,is it really better then the other 2??Whos got the knowledge?
  8. not that i have anything against adjustable fpr (great when used in the right place) but pushing your injectors past standard duty cycle is the last thing you want to do,not the safest of ways to bag an extra cuple of kw,spend the dollars save your engine,as previously stated its completely useless at such a low state of tune,by that i mean its more a risk then its worth...
  9. so very interested in this ecu,is it a re-brand, is better than the haltech e11v2,and how much is it going to cost me plug and play for an r33 gtst?
  10. id say its in the tune the afm seems to be ok if that reading and spec was accurate...
  11. split dump is designed to separate wastegate gas form exhaust turbine outlet gas,thus reducing the turbulence and increasing flow,but we arent all made of money so it really comes down to you mate,how much do you want to spend?,i just use the standard dump on my 180 and its perfect,same for the 33,but it just depends on your plans for the car,the power gains arent that significant that i would worry about changing the dump on a daily streeter.if that makes any sense to you.. d-brod
  12. ok so generally speaking youve got an internally gated turbo,well they say that a divorced/split dump is better for the flow of gases,better flow equals better response and power,but i think the straight dump is cheaper,while your at it im assuming ur going to do ur front pipe(dump to cat) ?if youve got the money go for split,and do the front pipe at the same time,get an exhaust guy to fit it for you as there may be some welding required..much easier that way.. d-brod
  13. my main problem with the power fc is the lack of upgrades in the last god knows how long and the little "technical oversight" in the lack of knock correction,is it just the price that turns people off haltech or is there more to it??
  14. hey wats the wheel weight on the standard r33 gtst rims
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