R33_Dude

For Sale 1983 Mazda Rx-7. 290,000ish kilometres on body Exterior/Interior: Aftermarket front spoiler and side skirts. Tinted windows. Pioneer CD player with Pioneer 6" speakers. Aftermarket bucket seats (snug), wheel and gear knob. Deleted rubber strips. Front interior needs a bit of work. Typical cracked dash and average door trims. Rear seats and trim are spot on. Boot needs re trim. Front guards have minor dents and the front spoiler is in average condition. Engine/Running gear: Rebuilt 13B Four port with series 5 rotors and other kit approximately 30,000-40,000 kilometres on it Runs beautifully, no smoke on start up or when hot Mildly ported Running 12A Carburettor Recent slight retune. Booked in for a major tune up in the next two weeks. Sports exhaust (2.5" primarys, reducing into twin 2" pipes, with 2 hotdogs on each pipe, then collecting into a single 3" pipe with a lukey rear muffler) Two brand new bosch gt40r coils Very smooth five speed gearbox Brass button clutch Brand new kingspring lows in the front GT gas shocks in the rear New plugs, distributor cap, front tyres, brand new thermostat, freshly reconditioned alternator.... gold and silver 15x7 RIAL mesh wheels rears have almost new RE001's on them. Comes with: set of five (four plus spare) original RX7 mags, a lot of oil, old coils, springs, shocks and various other bits and pieces that I can't think of off the top of my head. Registered until December. Very quick car for what it is, handles beautifully. $4500 FIRM Heres some old pics. It has had the rubber strips removed and stupid stickers taken off since then. More pics can be provided upon request.

For Sale 1983 Mazda Rx-7. 290,000ish kilometres on body Exterior/Interior: Aftermarket front spoiler and side skirts. Tinted windows. Pioneer CD player with Pioneer 6" speakers. Aftermarket bucket seats (snug), wheel and gear knob. Deleted rubber strips. Front interior needs a bit of work. Typical cracked dash and average door trims. Rear seats and trim are spot on. Boot needs re trim. Front guards have minor dents and the front spoiler is in average condition. Engine/Running gear: Rebuilt 13B Four port with series 5 rotors and other kit approximately 30,000-40,000 kilometres on it Runs beautifully, no smoke on start up or when hot Mildly ported Running 12A Carburettor Recent slight retune. Booked in for a major tune up in the next two weeks. Sports exhaust (2.5" primarys, reducing into twin 2" pipes, with 2 hotdogs on each pipe, then collecting into a single 3" pipe with a lukey rear muffler) Two brand new bosch gt40r coils Very smooth five speed gearbox Brass button clutch Brand new kingspring lows in the front GT gas shocks in the rear New plugs, distributor cap, front tyres, brand new thermostat, freshly reconditioned alternator.... gold and silver 15x7 RIAL mesh wheels rears have almost new RE001's on them. Comes with: set of five (four plus spare) original RX7 mags, a lot of oil, old coils, springs, shocks and various other bits and pieces that I can't think of off the top of my head. Registered until December. $4500 FIRM Heres some old pics. It has had the rubber strips removed and stupid stickers taken off since then.

and don't forget your dose pipe and a blue dragon airbrushed down the side. Cause blue dragons are faster.

Cheers! I had been looking for that clip for a while

Wanted for a project In particular I am looking for a R33 GTS-T with front/rear end damage, blown engine or an otherwise a rolling shell. Auto or manual. I would equally be interested in an R32/34, S13/14/15, 180sx, RX-7, Soarer, or Supra. Essentially as long as the chassis rails are straight I will be interested. Located in tasmania - will pay for interstate transit.

Yeah its a bit different - there is one carbed RB25 on an ignition dvd I think. They said it ran fairly well but needed slightly better tuning which can be a big problem with triple carbs - you really need a tuner that knows their stuff. I just love NA engines as much as forced induction. Carbs more so.

I have owned a R33 GTS auto, it is about the slowest skyline it is possible to own. And it easily makes it into my top ten best cars I have driven. Was it faster than a VN commodore? Yes. Was it faster than an SS commodore? No. Was it better than a turbo skyline (where better means more power)? No. Was it a huge amount of fun? Yes. I would buy a non turbo skyline in the future and go crazy on the engine - it would definitely come under the heading of dream car. External appearance stock R33 S1 with TE37's in a dark alloy finish. Engine stroked to 2.8, bumped up compression, lightweight forged internals, triple webers (yep you heard me right) or independant throttle bodies (adapted from a 20V 4AGE), blueprinted/balanced, manualised auto with b&m shifter and plenty more besides. I have calculated the cost aaaand it won't happen for a while lets just say I imagine it would sound similar to this: and It appeals to me more than a turbocharged car. Why? Personal taste. No other reason. When it comes down to it thats all people bicker over anyhow.

Ah the good 'ole panel vs pod with a twist. Basically in all the tests that have been done by various car magazines (both online and paper) the consensus is to get a high flowing non-oiled panel filter. Plus thats my opinion too. Feel free to flame away - honestly I don't care if you have a pod but for the love of god it better be shielded. Autospeed has some nice articles about induction here: Part 1: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1361/article.html Part 2: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1370/article.html Part 3: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1379/article.html Part 4: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1829/article.html Good stuff in there. As to why not pod and panel? The question is why would you? More restrictive. No gains. More convoluted piping. Probably not that much noise (if your into that kind of thing). Costly (relatively). Essentially a lot of work for no real gain. The question is why would you? Edit: added article

So changed the springs to 6kg - I had harder springs in for a little while but I found it made the rear even MORE tail happy when I just want something fairly neutral with perhaps a touch of oversteer. New adjustable shocks. New canard bar. New heavy duty Whiteline sway bar and strut bar coming. Lots of polyeurethane bushings. Also scored some free power - removed everything in the boot, rear seats, some sound deadener and most of the centre console. Enough to be an advantage but no so much that I would be uncomfortable as I am driving it on the street a lot of the time still. Hell it weighs 940 kilos stock (or there abouts) anyhow

Weld in coilover suspension for the rear. Essentially changes strut suspension to coilovers. Erm its easier for me to link the product: http://www.fullboost.com.au/forum/showthread.php?p=42402 KE70's have a five link rear end stock.

I think the suspension plans for my car are thrown out the window. I am kind of sticking to improved production guidelines because if I ever got serious thats the path I would take. It seems that I am unable to change the rear suspension to a type other than stock apart from the obvious springs / shocks and so on. Exerpt from rules: 9. SUSPENSION AND STERING 9.1 Springs: Springs are free provided that the type and location are unchanged (by type is meant: coil, torsion bar, leaf etc.) Am I correct in thinking that I would be unable to change to weld in coilovers?

Well its that or dellorto's or scoring a 20V on the cheap... My reasoning seems to be based around nostalgia and noise more than anything - call me indulgent . In terms of size, my carb tuner recommended 40's if its a daily and 45's if its seeing race and high rpm use. Expected outcome will be doughy down low (he said from 2500 rpm and below) but above that it should be peachy with excellent high RPM response. He seems to believe with the cams I am looking at it will all come together nicely. Just an idea of what they sound like with carbs for those who don't know: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrXMSCRHwug...feature=related

Just picked up this for a fun track day project: Will be set up for drift or circuit with fun being the key word, times coming second. Coming up will be a heavily modified N/A 4AGE. Not too sure yet how I will swing it but I think lightweight forged internals, larger cams, light ported head, bumped up compression ratio, twin weber's in an alloy air ducting enclosure (gogo cad skills!), MSD electronics and a few other bits and pieces. Suspension wise I am not to sure... More research will need to be done!

Don't listen to the naysayers! I bought and repaired a crashed R33 GTS and sold it for a profit (albeit with trade discounts, a panelbeater who charged in beer, and a painter who WAS the panelbeater). Go for it, too many people are discouraging of younger blokes (myself included) entering the car scene. I know for a fact if it wasn't for some people egging me on I probably would have given up the moment I got my first car. Do with the car what you will. Sure some things are mathematically better (especially considering NA R33's are often pricier than R33 GTST's) but just do what you want. This all said personally it would be a repair, sell, buy GTST jobbie for me

For Sale 1994 N14 Pulsar Ti. SR20DE powered (stock engine) 150 XXX kilometers Alloys (look quite good) New tyres Air con (re-gassed) CD player and 6" rear speakers (alpine or kenwood can't remember...) Remote central locking Electronic immobiliser fitted plus anti hijack/purse snatching feature (locks doors when engine is running) Original rubber floor mats, original tools and jack plus a new spare tyre New clutch, new water pump, new radiator, full 100 and 150,000 k services Carefully maintained. Full service history. All books. All receipts I am the second owner, previous owner was literally the old lady driving to church type, hence the complete service history Has a slight ding on the back right hand quarter. Minor shopping trolley dings as you would expect of a car this age $4300 ono The only reason I am selling is to step onto a motorcycle. I am plenty patient in selling. Will accept any reasonable offer. Quick little car, lighter than a N14 SSS (some 50 kilos stock for stock) and probably a tad quicker because of it. Totally stock, this is not the one I have been playing around with for an SR20DE+T. PICS:

For Sale 1994 N14 Pulsar Ti. SR20DE powered (stock engine) 150 XXX kilometers Alloys (look quite good) New tyres Air con (re-gassed) CD player and 6" rear speakers (alpine or kenwood can't remember...) Remote central locking Electronic immobiliser fitted plus anti hijack/purse snatching feature (locks doors when engine is running) Original rubber floor mats, original tools and jack plus a new spare tyre New clutch, new water pump, new radiator, full 100 and 150,000 k services Carefully maintained. Full service history. All books. All receipts I am the second owner, previous owner was literally the old lady driving to church type, hence the complete service history Has a slight ding on the back right hand quarter. Minor shopping trolley dings as you would expect of a car this age $4300 ono The only reason I am selling is to step onto a motorcycle. I am plenty patient in selling. Will accept any reasonable offer. Quick little car, lighter than a N14 SSS (some 50 kilos stock for stock) and probably a tad quicker because of it. Totally stock, this is not the one I have been playing around with for an SR20DE+T. PICS:

Sooo who wants to lend me say $40,000? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2001-Mitsubishi-Lan...%3A1%7C294%3A50 I love this car, its everything I would want in a car - insane top speed, handling, flappy paddles and totally fuel un-economical. Gah, I'm sad to see it sell and I hope the auction winner (unless someone gives me 40k ) has fun with it and looks after it....

now its an ipooed hehehe...

Sure do I'll put them up tonight if I can get my phone to actually connecdt to my computer and if that doesnt work I'll borrow the girlfriends camera.

Yep, still have everything. Shoot me a PM.

if your interested give me a call on 0438 957 491 postage costs depend on item and the method of postage you want (i.e. courier/registered post/overnight or express)

BUMP! price drop on turbo to $350. Needs to go, need the extra cash now for a motorcyle. Will sell injectors for $100 firm.

BUMP! price drop on turbo to $350. Needs to go, need the extra cash now for a motorcyle. Will sell injectors for $100.

If we are talking CRAAAAZEEEH engine swaps its simple as far as im concerned. LS2 + stroker kit + underbonnet screw supercharger with sandwiched water to air cooler in the intake manifold. - instant torque - power - response - revs its tits off - would destroy a dyno - can be driven every day - will be reliable. Or a dodge viper V10, your choice. Its shorter than an RB... Saw one fitted into a HQ sedan at the tassie hot rod nationals.

Bah! You know exactly what I mean I don't pay attention to that crap haha