Neejay

This is what I was talking about doing: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4337772 But are PCV valves specific? Like, if I get an inline one, will it flow/move the same amount of vapors as the thicker one made for this engine?

Is there anything wrong with this setup? So I'd just have to buy ANY inline pcv valve? Sorry, I know it's a year old post, but this is the best way (I think) I've seen a catch can setup. I'm trying not to have to run 2 catch cans, because I want to filter out the pcv valve vapors AND the valve cover vapors.

Ah, ok. Thanks! So that would mean that I'd have to plug up the cam cover-to-intake ports? There's a post that says it would cause a boost leak if left there (I think).

I haven't found a way to do it with a catch can that only has 2 ports. The diagram I've seen is for a RB20 and I've read where people say it works differently between the 2.

Again, getting confirmation (will be filled with stainless steel scrubs):

I'll test out the newly sealed PCV valve hose shortly, after I get home from work.

Background: RB25 into an s13. At first there was a lot of oil leaking between the turbo and turbo elbow. There was a lot of greyish smoke that smelt like gas. Replaced an injector's o-ring and MOST of the smoke disappeared as well as the smell. Once it was running for a while (idling) the oil leak stopped. Now there is a little blue-ish smoke only when I get to about 3k RPMs, come to a complete stop, then take off again. Regular driving = no smoke. I recently saw that the PCV hose port on the intake manifold was loose (i.e. no vacuum) so I temporarily slightly hammered the port in snugly + black silicone so I can go back to the shop and get it welded or some other permanent fix. Would the lack of PCV (since there wasn't any vacuum going to it) cause smoke? I checked the turbo intake pipe and there wasn't any oil or oil residue. Also none in the cold pipe or in the turbo inlet/compressor wheel. Hardly any shaft play in/out and very little side to side + blades looked good. There was a compression test done while the swap was going on and it was 149x5 and 140x1. Any ideas? Does it just need to be driven to burn off any build up from sitting and/or when the injector o-ring was bad? I'm going to get another compression test done soon. Stock RB25. I haven't driven it except from the shop to my home (about 15-20 miles) shifting around 3k rpms and only started it and revved it since.