PHaT MR30

They make a good paper weight though

Hey, After a pair of R32 GTR Axles, must be 32 spline at the hubs and 6 bolt at the diff end. Cheers Tim,

this would be a cheap bullet proof engine for probably under $2K

RB25 definatelly deeper ???

Is it PS thats measured with all accessories on?

I have one of them, except with the HPIB logo. my exhaust housing is .82 using these little quick release springs from a gokart exhaust to secure them

Anyone?

just goes to show not all information provided to you is legit cos i originally thought i was buying r32gtst hubs, but turns out they are gtr. ill edit my post.

Herd that she was doing 120+km/h, lost it hit the gutter rolled, took out a power pole and ended up in someones yard. Passengers were cut from the car and one has spinal injuries.

PM Sent last week! Please get back to me!

As stated above im after some Axles to suit my hubs (32 Spline). please PM or email me [email protected] *Edit: apparently R33 GTSt are 29 spline so no good*

don't forget if you block that water line off where it goes too after the throttlebody!!! it feeds your turbo! id personally block the throttlebody off and run a fresh line to the turbo. Im getting a header tank and doing away with the bleed on mine.

sounds like HEAPS of stuffing around TODD, bear in mind these turbos are as old if not older than the RB25 turbo and most likey would require a rebuild. They wouldn't be a bolt up affair either id imagine.... you might find a few highflowed rb20/25 turbos in the FS section fairly cheap.... me personally i wouldn't skimp on such an important part of the engine, especially if you want to make more power.

yup basically your disconnecting the spark, if there is no spark to disconnect its not going to make any difference.

Name: Tim Location: Launceston Job: Studying Financial Advisor Car: 1990 S13 Silvia K's (CA18DET) Mods: You really want to know??? Engine: RB25DET, Bored .20 thou, Venolia Forged pistons, Shotpeened, balanced and linished rods, balanced crank, ARP bolts, ACL Bearings, Rebuilt Std Head, GReddy Exhaust Cam Gear, TRUST Inlent Plenum, VH45DE Throttlebody, TRUST Fuel Rail, 440cc GTR Injectors, Malpassi FPR, DR DRIFT Thermostat Oil Cooler, GATES racing timing belt, MONSTAPERFORMANCE Highmount manifold, Custom GT30 (more 30/40), Turbosmart 45mm Progate, HYBRID 600x300x100 FMIC, SARD Bov, Microtech LT-8. Exterior: Its Black, Coilovers, R33 GTST Brakes, 5 stud conversion, 17x9 Zepter rims front, stock r33 rear. Drive: Exceddy Clutch, RB20 box (yikes), unknown "tight" diff. Interior: Sparco Fixed Back, Tomei Wheel, Blitz knob, Microtech DASH, GReddy Oil Pressure/Temp Guage, Apexi Boost Guage, GReddy Profec B EBC + Remote button, GReddy Turbo Timer... Jeeze i can't think what else.......... and it still doesn't go.......

sounds like number 1 is the problem then, coil not providing enough spark at idle... could be a number of problems from a bad earth to faulty coil.

So does that GDZ1LA setup run the MEC717 Bosch coils???

I think Garry should work for MINES

i read it on here somewhere, do a search on coils in this forum (forced induction)... i don't have time myself

Ive heard some ppl use VN commodore ones??? and also AU S1

Obviously your computer still has a boost cut then, i would suggest not to run anymore than 13psi through a ceramic wheeled turbo....

There is lots of broad minded persons that hang out in SHELL servo in town of a night

Yeh Pop goes the Hampster and other fun microwave games

Yeh thanks paul, i know they aren't the best, was just worth a try, till mate can get decent aftermarket computer...... is anyone out there doing remaps of the RB25 ecu? like dr drift doesn't do them......