Blk33
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Posts posted by Blk33
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Bit of a noob question here. So in the photo of the kit there are three hoses.
My understanding is that one hose connects the BLOCK adaptor to the remote filter (So oil out of the block to the filter) - YES
Then one hose goes from the filter to the cooler - YES
Then one hose goes from the cooler back to the block ADAPTER - YES
Is my understanding correct?
Cheers for the write up
Your understanding is correct!
Just ensure you get the correct hose orientation on the block adapter and the remote filter adapter.
I can't remember the orientation, but see the diagrams on page 1. I got them wrong first time around.
Cheers
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I got one from this request and it has fixed my problem.
Thanks to all that responded!
Rob
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Hi Everyone,
I'm after a YAW Sensor for a R33 GTR VSpec. The Yaw sensor is used by the HICAS.
It sits back near the battery see picture.
If anyone has one or can provide any leads for one, please let me know.
Cheers
Rob
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Where's the best place to buy the dielectric grease?
I saw the one at jaycar but it was called "conductive carbon grease", was not sure if this was the right one??
I bought dielectric grease from: http://www.parts4.com.au/
Dielectric grease is an insulator, conductive carbon grease is not what you want, it is a conductor!
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The specifications for dielectric grease show about 20,000 volts is required to jump a 1 mm length of dielectric grease.
So by covering the top of the spark plug in dielectric grease it makes it easier for the spark to jump across the spark plug gap rather than across the outside of the spark plug.
I agree with SiR_RB on reflection, maybe leave the top of the spark plug free of grease, however as long as a good metal contact is made with the top of the spark plug, covering the top of the spark with grease will not be a problem.
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Hi Everyone,
I had a go this week following the information and it worked a treat for me.
I documented the process and uploaded it to YOUTUBE. Have a look and see what you think!
Thanks to rockvale for the insite.
Rob
Hi,
An interesting article, the best one I have so far! I have just upgraded to small 2860 -7 turbos and increased the boost to about 15 - 16 psi. Occasionally around 5000 rpm I get a misfire. It feels like ignition and occurs around maximum engine load.
I like the idea of your test jig! It looks like you are creating another ground reference with the aluminium sheet and increasing the gap between the spark plug thread until a spark jumps somewhere else. Do you have any photos of the setup, this would be handy!
A quick question on the injector plugs, do you just pull them off, or remove the spring first?
Cheers
Rob
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Hi,
An interesting article, the best one I have so far! I have just upgraded to small 2860 -7 turbos and increased the boost to about 15 - 16 psi. Occasionally around 5000 rpm I get a misfire. It feels like ignition and occurs around maximum engine load.
I like the idea of your test jig! It looks like you are creating another ground reference with the aluminium sheet and increasing the gap between the spark plug thread until a spark jumps somewhere else. Do you have any photos of the setup, this would be handy!
A quick question on the injector plugs, do you just pull them off, or remove the spring first?
Cheers
Rob
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Up for sale is Stock R34 GTR v-spec items, all in excellent working condition with very low klms use
BNR34 Stock Front Pipe & Cat: - $100
[/b]
Hi,
I'm interested in the front pipe but don't need the cat.
How much to post to Melbourne?
Cheers
Rob
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Hey guys... have R33 GTR parts for sale;
Nismo Coilovers, with oil resevoir's, in great condition, photos soon $950.00
Standard Pistons $180.00
Standard Rods $180.00
Standard Air Flow Meters $130.00 for pair
Standard Dump Pipes $50.00 for pair
Standard Oil Pump $140.00
Standard Water Pump $120.00
Standard FMIC $150.00
Standard Cams $180.00
Will do a deal if more than 1 item is bought at a time.
All plus postage!! Some negotiable.
All in good condition, parts have seen 54000kms.
Only selling because I have upgraded to allow for more power.
More parts to come..
Pickup can be arranged.
PM me with offers,
Thanks Ben
Hi
Are the engine pipes from the dump pipes to the CAT available?
Cheers
Rob
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.... Wheels Sold ....
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Bump
Reduced to $750
Need these gone.
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Update
The wheels are 9 inch - the same width as standard R33 GTR wheels.
Sorry for the error.
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Apexi 3 Piece Wheels
I have for sale 4 Apexi 3 Piece 17 x 10 wheels with an of offset 18, painted in R34 GTR Silver Grey.
They are suitable for a R33 GTR but may suit other cars. These are a ightweight 22 Kg rim and tyre package which is about the same weight as a standard R33 GTR tyre and rim.
Complete with 4 255x40x17 Advan 565 Tyres – 2 tyres as new condition the other 2 tyres just roadworthy.
One wheel has a little gutter rash (tears), the other 3 wheels are n good condition
$950
Rob
0402 742 162
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bump make an offer!
See PM.
Rob
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See PM re turbos.
Rob
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about oil temps, with a cooler in good air flow on a cold (10c) day/night with some reasonable paced driving, (say changes at 4000 or 5000) what's the oil temp likely to be? how likely would it be to get too low in australia? or is that more for sub zero outside temps?
Generally you want your oil temperature around 90 deg C which is what happens driving around town.
The RBs have a water to oil heat exchanger which tends to keep oil temperature around the water temperature - heats up the oil quicker and cools the oil as well.
From what I have read you want to keep your oil temperature below about 120C. My experience is you will have difficulity getting your oil temperature above this driving around town (and keep your licence), its on the track where you are flat out most of the time.
I found with my oil cooler setup I had trouble getting the oil temperature above 80C - particularly in winter, so I fitted a aluminium sheet over the cooler fins for the cooler months.
Some better setups have a thermostat that doesn't engage the oil cooler until the oil is over about 80 or 90C. This would be the best setup.
Cheers
Rob
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Your installation looks neat!
I found it very difficult to tighten things as well. I managed to get hold of a wide shifter that wasn't long. This allowed to me get into tight places.
Next time I would put the remote oil filter the other way up - when you change the oil filter you dump a bucket full of oil into the engine bay and garage floor.
Any photos of the installed cooler?
Cheers
Rob
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Speedo Corrector
Last year I picked up a 1996 R33 GTR direct off the boat from Japan through a dealer in Melbourne. To my surprise when I was driving down the freeway towards home sitting on the maximum legal speed of 100KMs per hour, I was being passed by everyone on the freeway. This is not what I had planned for my new GTR! How could this be? My initial guess was that the speedo was reading fast, but what was is due to? The GTR has a 320Km Nismo speedo, perhaps this could be a problem?
Testing
A few weeks later I mounted my Tomtom One GPS and went for a drive. Sure enough at an indicated 100Km on the GTR speedo the GTR was only doing about 94Km as indicated on the GPS. I checked the linearity of the speedo at an indicated 50Km and the GPS read 47Km – linearity was constant. Why such a 6% error?
The tyres fitted to the car from Japan were a 255 x 40 x 17. The original tyres fitted to the R33 GTR were a 245 x 45 x 17. I check a great web site ‘the Car Maintenance Bibles’ http://www.carbibles.com/. In the Wheel and Tyre section on page 2, there is a tire size calculator. I keyed the two tyres sizes into calculator and it shows the fitted 255 x 45 tyres are 52mm shorter in circumference than the 245 x 45 tyres, which effectively over speeds the speedo by 2.5%. Thus at an indicated 100Km the actual speed would by 2.5% less, or 97.5Km. I guess the other 2% or 3% would be an error built into the speedo at manufacture.
In the state of Victoria the constabulary like to ensure motorists do not travel above the speed limit and are keen to enforce these limits with heavy fines for those that exceed them. Because of this I like to know exactly what speed I am driving at and a 6% error is too large.
Solution
I remember I had bought a Silicon Chip Speedo Corrector to fit in my son’s Clubsport a few years ago. He had changed the diff from a 3.45 to a 4.1 and consequently the speedo read too fast. Any way he sold the car before I fitted it, so I dug it out.
The device is a Silicon Chip kit - number KC5435 http://autospeed.com/cms/A_108415/article.html
I had purchased the kit through Jaycar http://www.jaycar.com.au/ My kit was an older version that didn’t have an interface for Nissans so I had to modify the circuit board for this. The circuit board has two rotary switches that switch in a 1% increase or decrease in pulse width to re-calibrate your speedo. One rotary switch covers 10% steps; the other rotary switch covers 1% steps.
1. Finished Circuit Board – this is the earlier version and is functionally the same as the newer boards - the new boards have more options
Interfacing to the R33 Speedo
I decided the easiest place to break the incoming speed signal from the gear box was at the rear of the speedo, direct it into the speedo corrector, make the adjustments for the error, and then feed the corrected signal back into the speedo. The first step was to locate the signals at the back of the speedo.
2. Rear of Speedo showing required pins
I have indicated on the picture the 3 signals that are required for the Speedo Corrector. +12 volts and ground to power the Speedo Corrector and the incoming signal from the speed sensor on the gear box. I soldered 3 wires directly onto the speedo circuit board and used the isolating washer and screw to feed the modified signal back to the speedo.
3. Isolating Washer and Screw – This is from a transistor heat sink kit
4. R33 Speedo circuit showing the attached 4 wires
I soldered 3 wires to the circuit board and attached the 4th wire to the isolated washer and screwed it back into the speedo. This effectively breaks the incoming signal from the gear box, diverts it to the Speedo Corrector and feeds the modified signal back to the speedo.
5. The finished board with cable
Above shows the cable, I also used a plug in case I had to disconnect the Speedo Corrector. I mounted the board in a small plastic case, wrapped the box in foam, and shoved it up under the dash board.
Testing
The Speedo Corrector worked like a dream! I mounted up the GPS again, left the rotary switches at zero and went for drive down the freeway to confirm all was working and no additional errors had been introduced. I then dialled in a 5% increase and then checked the speedo at 120Km and 60Km. At 120Km on the GPS the GTR speedo read about 122Km, and at 60Km on the GPS the speedo read about 61Km. Job was now
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Speedo Corrector
Last year I picked up a 1996 R33 GTR direct off the boat from Japan through a dealer in Melbourne. To my surprise when I was driving down the freeway towards home sitting on the maximum legal speed of 100KMs per hour, I was being passed by everyone on the freeway. This is not what I had planned for my new GTR! How could this be? My initial guess was that the speedo was reading fast, but what was is due to? The GTR has a 320Km Nismo speedo, perhaps this could be a problem?
Testing
A few weeks later I mounted my Tomtom One GPS and went for a drive. Sure enough at an indicated 100Km on the GTR speedo the GTR was only doing about 94Km as indicated on the GPS. I checked the linearity of the speedo at an indicated 50Km and the GPS read 47Km – linearity was constant. Why such a 6% error?
The tyres fitted to the car from Japan were a 255 x 40 x 17. The original tyres fitted to the R33 GTR were a 245 x 45 x 17. I check a great web site ‘the Car Maintenance Bibles’ http://www.carbibles.com/. In the Wheel and Tyre section on page 2, there is a tire size calculator. I keyed the two tyres sizes into calculator and it shows the fitted 255 x 45 tyres are 52mm shorter in circumference than the 245 x 45 tyres, which effectively over speeds the speedo by 2.5%. Thus at an indicated 100Km the actual speed would by 2.5% less, or 97.5Km. I guess the other 2% or 3% would be an error built into the speedo at manufacture.
In the state of Victoria the constabulary like to ensure motorists do not travel above the speed limit and are keen to enforce these limits with heavy fines for those that exceed them. Because of this I like to know exactly what speed I am driving at and a 6% error is too large.
Solution
I remember I had bought a Silicon Chip Speedo Corrector to fit in my son’s Clubsport a few years ago. He had changed the diff from a 3.45 to a 4.1 and consequently the speedo read too fast. Any way he sold the car before I fitted it, so I dug it out.
The device is a Silicon Chip kit - number KC5435 http://autospeed.com/cms/A_108415/article.html
I had purchased the kit through Jaycar http://www.jaycar.com.au/ My kit was an older version that didn’t have an interface for Nissans so I had to modify the circuit board for this. The circuit board has two rotary switches that switch in a 1% increase or decrease in pulse width to re-calibrate your speedo. One rotary switch covers 10% steps; the other rotary switch covers 1% steps.
1. Finished Circuit Board – this is the earlier version and is functionally the same as the newer boards - the new boards have more options
Interfacing to the R33 Speedo
I decided the easiest place to break the incoming speed signal from the gear box was at the rear of the speedo, direct it into the speedo corrector, make the adjustments for the error, and then feed the corrected signal back into the speedo. The first step was to locate the signals at the back of the speedo.
2. Rear of Speedo showing required pins
I have indicated on the picture the 3 signals that are required for the Speedo Corrector. +12 volts and ground to power the Speedo Corrector and the incoming signal from the speed sensor on the gear box. I soldered 3 wires directly onto the speedo circuit board and used the isolating washer and screw to feed the modified signal back to the speedo.
3. Isolating Washer and Screw – This is from a transistor heat sink kit
4. R33 Speedo circuit showing the attached 4 wires
I soldered 3 wires to the circuit board and attached the 4th wire to the isolated washer and screwed it back into the speedo. This effectively breaks the incoming signal from the gear box, diverts it to the Speedo Corrector and feeds the modified signal back to the speedo.
5. The finished board with cable
Above shows the cable, I also used a plug in case I had to disconnect the Speedo Corrector. I mounted the board in a small plastic case, wrapped the box in foam, and shoved it up under the dash board.
Testing
The Speedo Corrector worked like a dream! I mounted up the GPS again, left the rotary switches at zero and went for drive down the freeway to confirm all was working and no additional errors had been introduced. I then dialled in a 5% increase and then checked the speedo at 120Km and 60Km. At 120Km on the GPS the GTR speedo read about 122Km, and at 60Km on the GPS the speedo read about 61Km. Job was no
-
Speedo Corrector
Last year I picked up a 1996 R33 GTR direct off the boat from Japan through a dealer in Melbourne. To my surprise when I was driving down the freeway towards home sitting on the maximum legal speed of 100KMs per hour, I was being passed by everyone on the freeway. This is not what I had planned for my new GTR! How could this be? My initial guess was that the speedo was reading fast, but what was is due to? The GTR has a 320Km Nismo speedo, perhaps this could be a problem?
Testing
A few weeks later I mounted my Tomtom One GPS and went for a drive. Sure enough at an indicated 100Km on the GTR speedo the GTR was only doing about 94Km as indicated on the GPS. I checked the linearity of the speedo at an indicated 50Km and the GPS read 47Km – linearity was constant. Why such a 6% error?
The tyres fitted to the car from Japan were a 255 x 40 x 17. The original tyres fitted to the R33 GTR were a 245 x 45 x 17. I check a great web site ‘the Car Maintenance Bibles’ http://www.carbibles.com/. In the Wheel and Tyre section on page 2, there is a tire size calculator. I keyed the two tyres sizes into calculator and it shows the fitted 255 x 45 tyres are 52mm shorter in circumference than the 245 x 45 tyres, which effectively over speeds the speedo by 2.5%. Thus at an indicated 100Km the actual speed would by 2.5% less, or 97.5Km. I guess the other 2% or 3% would be an error built into the speedo at manufacture.
In the state of Victoria the constabulary like to ensure motorists do not travel above the speed limit and are keen to enforce these limits with heavy fines for those that exceed them. Because of this I like to know exactly what speed I am driving at and a 6% error is too large.
Solution
I remember I had bought a Silicon Chip Speedo Corrector to fit in my son’s Clubsport a few years ago. He had changed the diff from a 3.45 to a 4.1 and consequently the speedo read too fast. Any way he sold the car before I fitted it, so I dug it out.
The device is a Silicon Chip kit - number KC5435 http://autospeed.com/cms/A_108415/article.html. I had purchased the kit through Jaycar http://www.jaycar.com.au/ My kit was an older version that didn’t have an interface for Nissans so I had to modify the circuit board for this. The circuit board has two rotary switches that switch in a 1% increase or decrease in pulse width to re-calibrate your speedo. One rotary switch covers 10% steps; the other rotary switch covers 1% steps.
Finished Circuit Board – this is the earlier version and is functionally the same as the newer boards - the new boards have more options
Interfacing to the R33 Speedo
I decided the easiest place to break the incoming speed signal from the gear box was at the rear of the speedo, direct it into the speedo corrector, make the adjustments for the error, and then feed the corrected signal back into the speedo. The first step was to locate the signals at the back of the speedo.
Rear of Speedo showing required pins
I have indicated on the picture the 3 signals that are required for the Speedo Corrector. +12 volts and ground to power the Speedo Corrector and the incoming signal from the speed sensor on the gear box. I soldered 3 wires directly onto the speedo circuit board and used the isolating washer and screw to feed the modified signal back to the speedo.
Isolating Washer and Screw – This is from a transistor heat sink kit
R33 Speedo circuit showing the attached 4 wires
I soldered 3 wires to the circuit board and attached the 4th wire to the isolated washer and screwed it back into the speedo. This effectively breaks the incoming signal from the gear box, diverts it to the Speedo Corrector and feeds the modified signal back to the speedo.
The finished board with cable
Above shows the cable, I also used a plug in case I had to disconnect the Speedo Corrector. I mounted the board in a small plastic case, wrapped the box in foam, and shoved it up under the dash board.
Testing
The Speedo Corrector worked like a dream! I mounted up the GPS again, left the rotary switches at zero and went for drive down the freeway to confirm all was working and no additional errors had been introduced. I then dialled in a 5% increase and then checked the speedo at 120Km and 60Km. At 120Km on the GPS the GTR speedo read about 122Km, and at 60Km on the GPS the speedo read about 61Km. Job was now done.
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See notes below.
Cheers
Rob
Hi,I have read throgh the whole thread and I have some questions about this very interesting group buy.
Im looking to lower my GTR, but I want to have it as soft as possible. I have had other cars before with coilovers and they were allways to hard/firm. I wonder what springrate the whiteline springs are and which of the whitelines that is included in this package (control or flat out) ?
Sorry don't which ones are fitted - I would suspect Control
Anyone know the standard spring rate of the GTR (none V-Spec) ?
The bilstein shocks, how are they compaired to the standard shocks?
My car came from Japan with some Teins - these are way too stiff for me! The Bilsteins fitted as part of this group buy are quite firm and sporty over normal roads but allow the car to glide over speed humps - pot holes etc. My daily drive is a 2007 XR6 - the Bilsteins feel firmer around town than the XR6 but the Bilsteins rides the bumps like the XR6.
Do I need camber correction when lowering the car with the whitelines ?
After lowering the rear camber was too much - I fitted one set of KCA 347 to get the camber back to about -1deg.
I will have to look at the front camber soon as this is a little too much as well.
I would recommend you buy the bits from Whiteline and contact Gary Cook (SydneyKid) to purchase the Bilsteins - He has them valved to his specifications.
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My suspension kit for the R33 GTR finally arrived. It’s installed and I’m so pleased with the ride.
I had a set in my old R33 GTST and I was hoping the GTR verion was as good!
It’s a nice and firm ride but so compliant over undulations, pot holes, railway lines and speed humps. The suspension just soaks up speed humps and the car isn’t launched over them.
Gary has obviously spent a lot time getting the Bilstein shocks just right. Many thanks.
Cheers
Rob
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All my bits arrived yesterday - hip hip!
I'm now looking forward to the installation and the improved drive.
Thanks Gary!
Cheers
Rob
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did anybody contact Gary or Matt lately? I've been trying to call them, but they never there.So I came to their place yesterday (friday) and found out they weren't there. I only met a guy named Ahmed, and he said he didn't know anything, he just a casual worker....
are they still working there? any info guys?
Cheers
I spoke with Gary on Friday 28/11/08 afternoon.
My R33 GTR bit were shipped on Friday.
I used this number to contact Gary:
Superior Suspension
4 Lincoln St Minto NSW 2566
(02) 9603 0100
Just keep phoning back until he answers the phone.
Cheers
Rob
R33: Oil Cooler Installation
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Posted