Blk33

July 2, 2005

For normal driving around town the standard heat exchanger fitted between the engine and the oil filter is quite satisfactory. However, 3 or 4 times a year I take the car to Sandown or Calder raceway for a blast around the track. I remember running around Philip Island a few years ago with a mate in his R32 GTR on a mild day. Three or four laps of the track at wide open throttle (WOT) was enough to raise the oil temperature to over 130 degrees C and activate the oil temperature light. Three or four laps of Philip Island represents over 8 minutes of the engine under full load at WOT. This cannot be duplicated on normal roads for obvious reasons. Last March I ran the car at Sandown and the air temperature was 32 degrees. I figured 2 or 3 laps flat out would be enough to boil the oil! I didn’t have an oil temperature gauge fitted at that time but I imagined the oil would be very hot. Another factor to take into account is the engine is developing 220kW at the rear wheels, which means about 250kW at the engine. Thus an increase in power developed by the engine from 170kW to 250kW must transmit the extra heat somewhere!

Oil Cooler Kit

I purchased an oil cooler kit from Hong Kong over the internet for $400 delivered.

It also came with a remote oil filter mounting which was an added bonus!

Kit on the bench after it arrived

Fabrication the Mountings

Where to mount the oil filter and cooler? The reinforced hoses that came with the kit are way too long for the R33, thus a compromise on location for the cooler and remote filter had to be found to make the installation easy. For obvious reasons the cooler should fit in the driver side guard, near the vent on the series 2 front bar. First step was to remove the front bar. I fabricated an ‘L’ shaped steel bracket from my favourite shop – Bunnings. I also mounted an aluminium support bracket for the right hand side of the cooler.

Trial mounting showing L shaped bracket and additional support bracket made from aluminium. (Front view)

Trial mounting. (Rear view)

Oil Temperature Sensor Mounting

One of the objectives of the exercise was to reduce the engine oil temperature, but what was it? I had previously fitted a VDO oil temperature gauge, but I lacked a suitable place to mount the sender! I took this opportunity to mount the temperature sender in the remote oil filter adapter. It has two bungs for such a device. The thread was different, so I had to re tap the hole with the correct tap.

Remote oil filter with temperature sender fitted.

Remote Oil Filter Mounting

I looked and looked to find a suitable position to mount the remote filter taking into consideration the length of the hoses and I wanting the hose installation to look like a professional installation. I have seen many filters mounted near the driver side strut tower. Unfortunately the hoses are way too long for this. I found a suitable place down on the front chassis rail near the radiator and below the windscreen washer tank. This location, if you look carefully has two blind 6mm nuts attached to the chassis rail. I don’t have to drill any holes – beaut! I quickly made a bracket, now for the hoses.

Fabricated bracket attached to oil filter

Remote oil filter location

Attaching the Hoses

Remove the oil filter from the engine and attach the engine adapter. Make sure the two ‘O’ rings are in place. I used a little grease to hold them in place. Take note of the orientation of the engine adapter hose connectors, check the markings, inner and outer, this orientation will be required later. Outer is for the outside of the filter, and the other is the inner of the filter (threaded section). The oil from the engine is pumped through the outer of the engine adapter, through the remote filter outer (small holes with rubber one way valve), across the oil filter element to the inner threaded section of the filter, then to the cooler and returned to the engine via a long hose to the inner threaded adapter on the engine. If the hoses from the engine adapter are on the wrong way, the one way valve in the oil filter will prevent oil circulating through the filter and cooler. Take note of the orientation before you mount the adapter.

By the way the standard oil filter will not fit the new remote adapter because a different thread is used to attach the oil filter. An oil filter for a Commodore V8 will fit – Z160. I also sourced a Z30 which is physically larger filter and has a larger filter element. I will upgrade to the Z30. The installation of the hoses and attaching them to the fittings is a slow and time consuming job.

Oil filter removed and the engine adapter mounted

Hoses attached to adapter

Oil Cooler in place with hoses attached

Finished item from front of the R33

Starting the Engine for the First Time

Most likely the oil will require topping up with the addition of the oil cooler. Firstly, oil has been lost by removing the oil filter and we have now added addition hoses and cooler capacity that all requires to be filled with oil. Take this opportunity to do a complete oil change while the filter is off. Any way I estimate you will need about 4.8 litres of oil (a little left in a 5 litre container). Disconnect the ignition wiring loom on top of the rocker housing at the rear of the engine. We don’t want the engine to start just yet. Now remove the new remote oil filter if you have fitted it. Crank the engine for a few seconds until you see oil appearing at the remote oil filter housing. Remember the oil must appear around the outer gallery of the oil filter housing. If it comes out of the centre gallery, you have he pipes connected to the engine adapter the wrong way round. It is most important to get this correct before you go any further.

Oil should appear from the outer gallery

If all is OK, attach the new oil filter and start cranking again. This time we are cranking the engine to fill the new oil filter, the hoses and the oil cooler with engine oil. Keep cranking the engine until the oil pressure light goes out and the oil pressure gauge shows a reading. It is now safe to start the engine. Reconnect the ignition wiring loom and start the engine. Make sure you have oil pressure and this time check for oil leaks around the fittings.

Once the engine has warmed a little, check there is heat in the new oil filter and the oil cooler should be getting warm as well. If these are not warm or hot, you still may have the oil flowing the wrong way.

For normal driving in the cooler months I have fitted a cover to the oil cooler to stop airflow through the cooler fins. The engine oil temperature sits at about 70 degrees once warmed up. I am interested in what temperature the oil rears on the track now.

Cold Weather Covers

Melbourne’s winter is 10 to 15 degrees, so I figured oil cooler covers would be appropriate while the car is not on the track. I wanted covers that were easy to install and remove. I formed 2 pieces of aluminium in an ‘L’ shape to make a front and a rear cover. The size was 220 x 140 and 60 deep. The front cover has 2 additional brackets pop riveted to them to hold both covers in place. To install, I hold the rear cover in place and slip the front over to hold both in place.

Cold weather covers in place

Good luck!

Updates:

Oil filter types

Oil capacity

Cold weather covers

Updated thumbnails into article

June 29, 2005

Hi Rob, by retarding the exhaust camshaft timing I am aiming for more mid range, but I can get a bit of top end as well. There is also some faster spooling to gained as well. What it achieves is more complete combustion, before the exhaust valves open. Plus you get slightly higher combustion pressure, for more torque.
You don't get something for nothing though, it also means you get less overlap, the inlet valve isn't open at the same time as the exhaust valve for as long. This means the incoming inlet charge (air and fuel) doesn't help push the exhaust out. This is why it works well with a bit of extra boost (above standard) as that offsets the shorter "push" time.

It's not quite a win/win, but there isn't much downside:cheers:

I look forward to your dyno runs later.

I like your new pit crew, not your daughters are they?

Cheers

June 29, 2005

Hi SK,

What is the theory behind retarding the cam shaft timing?

Where are you looking for power increases, low, mid high RPM?

Cheers

Rob

June 18, 2005

I am representing a TAFE Institute as part of the Victorian team. No we don't have a stand, I just follow around with the Minister for ICT. We have heaps of meetings planned with various Japenese dignitaries. Should be fun.

Have to sign off now as I have to pack for the early flight tomorrow morning.

If you can think of any else worth visiting drop me a line and I will catch up Monday some time when I establish communications again.

Cheers

Rob

Wow! Some of that $40M was a waste in my opinion. I like the pavilion but it could still be better. It has 3 parts - the first part is pretty boring. Nobody understands it. Oh and for English listeners, we get to stand in a box taped in the back corner.
Ever since I moved here, it has been all about Expo. Will be stange in September when there is no more Expo here. I could belive that 15 million will attend. It can get very busy sometimes.

Do u have a reservation for some of the corporate pavilions? I assume you are coming here for work purposes then?

June 18, 2005

The word is Australia spent $40M on the pavilion, which included the giant platypus. The Expo is run over 6 months and the Japanese expect about 15 million people to attend.

The Victorian Government is spending about $5M on 6 trade missions to the Expo about 1 month apart.

First mission was Automotive, then Agriculture, and the 3rd mission is IT which I will be part of.

Looking forward to it.

Cheers

Rob

June 18, 2005

There is a Toyota Automobile Museum in Nagoya...actually more on the outskirts in Nagakute where I live. There is also Expo happening out this way which might be worth a look (nothing to do with cars though).

Thanks for the feedback.

Actually, the main reason for visiting Japan is to attend the world expo at Nagoya.

I am visiting the Toyota house, if I get a chance I will try to get to the factory. Looks like they do tours.

I noticed in your photos a picture of the giant platypus.

Is that from the expo??

Cheers

Rob

June 17, 2005

Hi,

I will be visiting Japan between June 20 and June 29. (one more sleep to go)

I am in Tokyo and Nagoya and will have a JR train pass.

I will also have a few spare days and would like to get a feel for the car sceen in Japan.

Can anyone provide any suggested sights worh seeing:

New and second hand car parts

Drifting circuits, where do they hang out?

Car museums

etc etc

Cheers

Rob

June 14, 2005

Hi SK,

Very interesting and useful guide!

Are you planning to adjust the exhaust cam timing and run some dyno tests?

When I fitted my WOLF ECU, I had to wire in some mods to activate the intake cam solenoid. I left it standard until about 2000rpm, activated it (advanced the cam), then dropped it out at about 6000rpm. I did dyno runs and an advanced intake cam helps power at mid rpm, but I was unable to detect any improvement above 6000rpm advanced or standard. This was with the standard turbo. I have since high flowed the turbo but not re checked the intake cam vs power.

Any thoughts?

Rob

June 14, 2005

4 x Bridgestone S03s for sale.
235 x 45 x 17

Fantastic wet and dry roads.

As new. $850 set of 4.

Bump

June 13, 2005

4 x Bridgestone S03s for sale.

235 x 45 x 17

Fantastic wet and dry roads.

As new. $850 set of 4.

May 3, 2005

Greets Rob,
Thanks for your reply, just to confirm, 8mm WBO2 sensor able to fit in standard hole without any modifications? At this stage not going to install a second sensor bung as I dont really feel this is warranted as yet. Just waiting on your reply before I go an purchase the kit(soldering is fun, is it not :-))

Thanks

Matt

After double checking your message, I think you are purchasing a NTK 7057 Sensor priced at $89. Yes it will fit in the standard hole. I used the 6066 at $150.

HOWEVER, removing the standard O2 sensor and replacing it with the NTK 7057 alone will not improve your tuning ability. The NTK sensor requires the WB02 2A0 in order for it to measure the air / fuel ratio. The total kit will set you back about $600!!

Also, I have a Wolf ECu that allows me to tune the amount of fuel. If you have the standard ECU will not be able to tune any thing!

Thus, if you are swapping the standard O2 sensor with the NTK 7057, I don't think it will work and you will not gain anything.

Hope that helps.

Cheers

Rob

May 2, 2005

Hi Matt,

I fitted a dump pipe to my R33. Before I fitted the dump, I also added a plug to allow the fitting a Tech Edge WB02 sensor. The thread of the WB02 is the same as the Oxygen sensor fitted to your car. In fact it will fit in the same plug hole in the standard R33 dump pipe..

The plug was supplied and welded in at my local exhaust supplier.

I have been using the Tech Edge WB02 for about 9 months now. I use it to fine tune my Wolf ECU.

Good luck.

Rob

April 7, 2005

1000km means they aren't new anymore... what price are you selling them for?

Paid $1400 for them, only did 1000Km.

Almost New!!! $1050 will not seperate.

April 6, 2005

Bump

April 6, 2005

Now have one - thanks

I am after the hose from the Air Cleaner - Mass Airflow Sensor to Turbo.

Cheers

Rob

April 6, 2005

4 x Bridgestone S03s for sale.

235 x 45 x 17

Only travelled 1000 Km, Brand New.

New Price

$1050 set of 4.

Will not seperate.

February 13, 2005

Dear SK

I have read with interest your articles on the Independent Boost Controller (IBC).

During the Christmas holidays I bought Performance Electronics for Cars to read while lazing on the beach. (great read for those interested) The controller caught my eye and I duly purchased one with the hand controller on my return from holidays. Unlike you, mine is still sitting in the cupboard in my workshop unmade!

My turbo let go early in January, I took you advice and got it GCG hi flowed and have just finished reassembling and installing it after cleaning out impellor bits from the FMIC and replacing the clogged up CAT. The car is running again but I haven't really given it a run yet.

What caught my eye in the original article was that the boost solenoid in series with the actuator, as did you. A couple of question for if you don’t mind.

I run a Wolf plug and play and it has an internal boost controller which is programmable on bleed every 125 RPM. I thought I might convert it to a series type still using the Wolf. Any thoughts?

I then read your articles and I must have missed the IBC is controlled by load on the injector. (a few zzzzzs on the beach) I like the idea of 110K with or without boost and more engine response controlled by the throttle – less lag?. I used to have a 260Z with triple Webers and I miss the instant throttle response of a NA engine. Maybe I should disable the Wolf boost control and use the IBC instead? (My original idea after reading the article)

I also like the idea of flat boost at 7000 RPM. My experience with the old turbo was boost fall off at max RPM. Is this a function of the controller, turbo or just controlled better with the IBC?

My last question is Fail Safe. What happens if the IBC fails, solenoid stays closed, max boost?

Cheers Rob

January 14, 2005

I have been running a R33 Wolf 3D plug and play for the last 6 months.

It uses an internal MAP sensor or can be configured for an air flow sensor.

I chose the MAP.

Developing power on the dyno was easy and is repeatable and reliable.

As the SK says the MAPs do not meter small levels of RPM as well as the air flow sensor.

In fact I have had a ball over the last 5 months setting the tuning as best as possible at idle and with engine load such as air conditioning and lights etc.

It is good now but not as good as factory ECU.

I have cold starts and warm ups as good as factory ECU, but has taken many hours.

Cheers

Rob

January 13, 2005

Hi,

Just to add a little more.

My R33 S2 turbo let go yesterday.

I have a FMIC, Wolf ECU, and running 11 psi boost.

I drive it very moderately and 2 sprints per year.

It let go on the first drive of the day.

Cheers

January 13, 2005

My R33 turbo has just let go of its compressor and turbine blades.

I think I will go a high flow from GCG in Sydney.

I was quoted $1950 today!

I thought it could be done for about $1200 - $1300?

Cheers

July 9, 2004

I have to clear out some space in the garage after the rebuild.
so i have for sale:

Rb25det s2(I think) manual computer

-$100

RB25det AFM

-$130

Thanks

John

Hi John

I am interested in the ECU and AFM for a project I am doing. They don't have to work.

I am offering $100 for the both plus postage to Melb COD.

Let me know

Cheers

Rob

July 8, 2004

Check your PMs

July 6, 2004

Thanks Sydney siders!

Anyone in Melb?

July 5, 2004

I am after a standard R33 ECU.

All I need is the case, so if you have a dead ECU, all the better.

Cheers

June 26, 2004

We have an R34 GTT that makes 265 rwkw with the following;
GTR fuel pump (SAU forum)

3.5" exhaust ((from Performance Metalcraft)

HKS POD with heat shielding and large CAI (SAU forum and self made)

R33 GTR standard intercooler (SAU forum)

RB25DET turbo with ball bearing hi flow (by GCG)

Split dump and engine pipe combo (from Performance Metalcraft)

Hi flow cat (SAU forum)

Power FC with boost control kit (Nengun)

Tomei Poncams 256 @ 9.2 mm (Nengun)

Nismo fuel pressure regulator (Nengun)

Tomei Injectors (Nengun)

Hi SydneyKid

I have read a little about the GCG hi flow RB25DET. Look like good value for money.

What sort of loss in mid power over a standard turbo would you expect and does that outweigh the increase in top end?

I love the mid range power available with 12psi on the standard turbo.

I am worried it will be a dog with the high flow.

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