DJ-Static

I bought my R33 GTST 1.5 a few years ago. Over those years I've done a bit of work here and there, so it's about time I made a thread to document it all Here it is when I bought it: The guy who owned it before me did some dodgy stuff (more on that later) as well as putting GTR bages on it

Like this? http://justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=381

Thanks, but no thanks. I just need the top to drill holes in and general experimentation without crippling my car. I'd only pay about $30, and I only need the top section. Cheers.

Lol, it's one of the most important safety features of a car. In fact it keeps you in it! And hopefully your belt and air bag help you stay there. If any part of the seat or rail gives way. The seat belt won't work and you will most likely exit the vehicle.

I'm sure they say that because E85 kills a lot of pumps due to the crud it stirs up. Pump comes back. Pump comes back. Pump comes back. Then the quality manager for Bosch goes "put on the package we don't warrant returns for E86 anymore". This is overkill for a lift pump to a surge tank. But it's probably the best in tank pump for E85: http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/F90000267/Walbro-Fuel-pump-Intank-E85-450lph/pd.php

Even if the are good enough to be ADR. It's a defect because they wont have the compliance marks to the associated Australian Standards. End of the day I don't want anyone getting hurt. I've seen some horrific car seat failures. Worst one - mum driving, 100kg plus dad in passenger seat two kids in the back. Dad rams the seat agains the back stop for more leg room. He actually sheared the top of the rear stop. The locking mechanism isn't engaged. Car gets rear ended by a fast moving vehicle whilst stationary. Dads seat slides straight out the back onto the kid in the back. Kid doesn't servive the injuries. They need to be made from the correct materials and assembled properly with a design that had been tested appropriately. That's why their so expensive (the propper ones). Because you can't cheap out on quality or safety.

Guys I cringe everytime you talk about seat rails, modifications, stuff not lining up etc. etc. I don't want to rain on you parade but you absolutely must get the correct realist to suit your car AND your seat. These should also be ADR approved (it means they have been slead tested with a dummy) The other important things are using the correct bolts and torque settings. Then talk about styling and comfort. All that stuff is important in normal cars, you guys are like 4 to 5 times more powerful (and you drive on a track). I know all this because I worked for Futuris Automotive who are (were) the teir 1 suppler to Mitsubishi, Ford and Holden. I was the Quality Engineer for the Holden front seating line and Mitsubishi intrusion bars.

At the time I didn't know what else to do. But now I think I'll run a 040 (or 044 in tank with a sock). Bosch pumps have threads, hence it's easy to get AN/PTFE lines in there

This is my plan: I think I made a few slight changes since making the jpg, but that's the crux of it. I plan on making a full DIY write up. From what I can tell there isn't one out there (hence threads like this)

So you can use PTFE hose. It's the best for E85 (and probably ever other fuel too).

So if I have a lift pump, surge tank and external pump. I shouldn't need it, should I? Because the external pump performs a similar function.

Nice one. I think it has somthing to do with the venting of vapors to the carbon canister.

No worries, btw I always chuckle when you write stealth with that shinny high mount

you mean you need one of these? ($210) http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18588 Vent holes/grill in the valley cover that allow air to flow can prevent the coils from cracking and the loom from going brittle.

Long story short, I want to connect AN fittings through the lid (sender unit). What is the jet pump's function? Can I ditch it?

So you just by-pass/remove the "jet pump"? (No sure what its function is). I'm going to buy a spare sender unit to mess with

ahh.. finally I made it to the end. So much dribble! j/jk congrats btw. excellent result from stock. I though 22psi on my R33 was pushing the limit. lol I only started reading this thread because you were mentioned in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/428714-braided-teflon-lines-how-to-connect-to-plastic-tank-barbs/ I was a little disappointed that there were no pictures of how the hoses connect to the actual tank. Is it possible for you to take photos/removed the cover etc. I'd like to know what's going on in there (and you could inspect/clean you lift pump filter sock )

Are you willing to sell the fuel tank lid (called the "sender unit" in the manual) on it's own?

Are you willing to sell the fuel tank lid (called the "sender unit" in the manual) on it's own?

Items: Fuel tank lid - white bit in the photo (in the manual it's actually called a "sender unit") From a GTS-T S1.5/2 (not sure if other models are the same?) Extra Info: I want it to convert it to AN fitting and larger power wires for the pump. If I butcher it, I don't want to be without a car. Contact Details: Reply to this post and we can take it from there. Price and price conditions: No idea what this would be worth..

Possible AFM issue? Do you have the NisTune software? Most sensors/acc etc. can be monitored on the consult panel. You'd think a cold log would detect a sensor issue. Particularly if it comes good once warm.

Last night I had multiple tabs open in my browser and started a thread in the general automotive section by acceident. Original post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423439-rb25-wtf-is-the-fuel-dumpers-job-can-i-ditch-it/ Just want to know what it dose and do I need it, or can I by-pass it i.e. plumb straight from the FPR to the hard line return to the fuel tank? Pretty keen to start cutting hose today, hence the repost

oh wait.. how loud is it

opps wrong part of the forum (I'm blaming multiple tabs!) Can a moderator please move it?

Ok peoples, I'm replacing all my fuel hose with SS braided PTFE (Teflon) AN6 hose. I just want to know what this "Fuel dumper" does (I know it's on the return line to the tank), and can I ditch it? Additional info about my ride that is probably relevant: Tuned for E85 top feed rail with 1000cc injectors TurboSmart FPR feeds this thing Here's a pic from the "replace fuel filter" thread: Any help would be appreciated.. Cheers.