the phantom

Maybe you could ask him nicely...its not that hard to take one apart, and wont cost anything... Isn't there a Holden forum somewhere we could post the query on... SteveL: where did you get your pump from. Perhaps your dealer has different info to Joel's???

...straight from the JPNZ R33 engine service manual electrical schematics. There is NO connection to the ECU from this device. There is an AFM and a TPS so there is no need for an additional MAP device for engine control. Also the PowerFC hand control has no diagnostic readout for the device as it is not part of the ECU system, whereas both AFM and TPS do. The only way this device can cause engine running issues is if the tube splits, which the do eventually at the connection to the plenum. The resultant vacuum leak can cause issues...

From experience using timing (gilmer???) belts in high speed/power industrial applications, timing belts are more efficient than v-belts, and maintain their high efficiency for longer. All v belts slip somewhat, and the wedging action into the pulley is responsible for the lower efficiency. Bear in mind that we are probably splitting hairs considering the power levels transmitted by belts in auto applications. There is probably only about 5% in it and thats with an unmaintained/adjusted v belt. That said, the only problem is the favourable/objectionable noise issue. What a concept Warpspeed!!! I bet you could make some money doing that too!!!

why are they called 'Gilmer' belts...aren't they just 'timing' belts?

Hey Ska, The R33 has NO map sensor. The small hose comming from the plenum and plugging into a sensor is purely for the boost gauge on the dash. No input from it goes to the ECU. Your relatively lucky finding such a simple solution to your problem

...where???

I have the same problem. I'm sure its the starter motor, because if you stop it from starting, you can still hear the starter winding down and squealing while everything else has stopped turning. I'll have to pull it out and give it a lube....one day

Hi, Thanks for the help people, but I found one to suit my needs.

Hi, Bl4cK32: The R33 pump I dissasembled above was from a series 1 1994 GTS25t, and has the significantly wider crank gear compared to the RB30...so its NOT the same. So is mine out of the ordinary? The engine details were definitely series 1, ie seperate ignitor module and older series TPS. So does that mean series 1's came out with both styles? Unfortunately I dont have an R32 series engine oil pump so I cant check for you...sorry. Regarding Sydneykids post in the link, he seems to be referring to DIAMETERS rather than the width of the lugs that I concentrated on measuring, and again, the pump above was a series 1 which seems to contradict what was mentioned. I'll measure the actual diameters of the '25 and '30 cranks to see if I can align with what SK suggests. SteveL: Thanks! Thats what I was wondering. The engine builder who built the current RB30 short motor I'm runnning, had made a big song and dance about the differences in the RB30E and ET pumps, particularly the significant additional cost of the ET. I just went with his advice at the time, so from what your saying he appears to have been correct in his insistance.

Well I pulled apart my spare '94 RB25DET and SI RB30E oil pumps to compare. There are significant internal differences. Most significant is the gear construction. The RB30 has many very fine teeth, whilst the RB25DET has fewer much coarser teeth. Also the engagement of the gear to the crank on the '25 covers a full 16mm vs the measly 5 mm of the RB30. The effective width of the teeth is near enough the same however. Secondly the pressure regulator springs: the RB25 has two springs, one smaller diameter within the other larger diameter. The length appears different however the nut that locks everything into place is also deeper on the '25, so the overall effective length is the same. Overall, there appears to have been some concern to change the gear design, as seen by the engagement length. As for the tooth count who knows, perhaps it was easier and'or cheaper to mass produce this way. Without extensive and difficult measuring it is difficult to calculate the effective flow rate differences. The stiffer pressure regulator is to be expected considering the '25 has piston squirters, which aren't adopted in the '30. See attached photos.

Hey Joel, Thanks for sharing that. I have an RB25DET and an RB30 in pieces...I might pull the pumps apart and confirm what your saying, physically, not that I doubt what your saying, I'm just being pedantic I'll let you know. I had to pay a more exorbidant amount that that when I had my RB30 short motor built...I wont be doing that again!!!

Hey all, As the title suggests, I'm after an RB26 head, in good condition, i.e no previous cracking or damage other than normal wear and tear. I prefer a complete assembly from the deck up, although I will consider other options. Please PM me if anybody has anything. Thanks.

How are standard injectors Hiflowed?

Yeah, well I figured it out. I have to make a tool that supports the new blank throttle plate at the required angle to the lathe chuck axis, and machine it at the edge parallel to the chuck axis as it spins. Its not just a matter of measuring an angle...thats easy. You cant just put the blank in the lathe and angle the tool! The actual shape formed is an ellipse. I agree that our machinists should have suggested something. I bet if I told them I'd pay them Sunday rates to do it they'ed be full of ideas! Anyway, thanks.

Hey Mark, So your saying that the Toyota manual actually has instructions on how to make one?....which manual? I don't want a replacement, I want to make a bigger one, but dont know how to go about machining that peculiar edge shape? Thanks.

Does anyone know how you go about machining the angle present on the edge of a throttle butterfly? I'm no machinist, but our machinists out back dont know either!! Or is this a job for a CNC...

Hi all, I've asked this elsewhere but I believe it may be more appropriate here as this eems to be the house of expertise... I've seen lots of claims of "Garrett GT3040". Unless I am completely missing something, what is this turbo exactly? I certainly cant find an official reference to it by Garrett. GCG's web site say GT3040 and quote a part number GSB8005A. I have a Garrett SB8005A and I cant see where the '40 comes into it, it has a T04s compressor not a GT40 and is a GT30 series turbo. Are they making hybrids and adding the HKS naming for marketing reasons or have I missed something??

Hi Spoolup, Congratulations...nice. What boost are you running and what are the response characteristics like? I have a question regarding the turbo you mention. What exactly is it? A Garrett GT30 has a T04s compressor from what I can come up with. Only the GT35R's have the GT40 compressor. So is your turbo a hybrid, i.e a GT30 (SB8005A) with a gt40 series compressor fitted on it as non standard?? Can you please enlighten me as to where the GT30/40 designation comes from?

Hey Sydneykid, Is your Rb31's ability to rev to 8500 due to the mysterious concept of 'overbalancing' you speak of Apologies for meandering off topic, I cant resist... Sydneykid never quenched my curiosity... :wassup:

Original R34 GTR rims dont work on an R33 GTS25t. When mounted the stick out past the guards by about 25mm unfortunately...I tried on a set. These copies must have a substantially different offset to suit the GTSt.

Yeah that catalog is where I'm getting my info from. But if you ring Garrett here direct GT3040 doesn't mean a thing. You need a part number. And GCG have added a G in front of the SB8005A Garrett part number for what I have. Does this make it their own hybrid version or just an internal GCG part number...who knows...I remain confused!!! By the way the SB8005A with a 1.06 exhaust I have is OK with boost made from 3000 onwards, but peak boost of 1 bar doesn't happen until about 4300-4400 RPM. But get it into range and its pretty awsome, being able to light up the wheels at outrageous speeds....

Yes, its confusing isn't it, with everyone putting on their own part numbers/components/ specs, and then you ring Garret Australia for something and they don't know what you're talking about! Why would you go with a T04s wheel when the more modern GT40 style is available? Some Garrett official part numbers start with SB, such as SB8007. You cant order a turbo from Garrett and only quote GTxx, they dont know what you mean! I bought an SB8005A I'm currently using, with a 1.06 A/R. As mentioned I have enquired about a GT35R from Garrett Australia, and the part number is as mentioned. One of the few recognised out of the catalog here in australia. Perhaps I need to find out exactly what compressor wheel this uses as far as Garrett is concerned, TO4s or GT40. I preffer going straight to the source to avoid confusion/marketing such as this. Indeed the GCG call their product a GT35R, yet acording to the catalog it is a some sort of GT35R/GT35 hybrid collection of parts!

Hey Skyrine-Dave, Sorry, I got caught in the HKS/Garrett nomenclature confusion I keep seeing, and didn't realise what you meant. What components go into a Garrett GT3540 i.e wheels/trims etc? Do you have an actual Garrett Australia part number or is it a hybrid? Or is it whats 'officially' known as a Garret GT35R, part # 714568-1, which has a GT40 type compressor, and is shown in the Garrett Performance Products Catalog, and which Garret Australia seems to know about? As far as I can tell from available documentation there is nothing officially known as a GT3540. If you mean the part number mentioned, then I was also considering using this on my next build, and was wondering the same thing as you....the 714568-1 with a 1.06 or the 714568-2 with a 0.82.

Hi all, I was wondering how long it would take to move onto this interesting subject Is anyone considering a Garrett of some description rather than HKS ?

I'll give you 400 for the 4WD auto box + accessories if you include delivery to Adelaide...probably around $100 so I guess I'm offering $300....