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worldwalker

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Posts posted by worldwalker

  1. I am having problem my v35.. 2 mech checked and think it might b problem with o2 sensor, but not sure WHICH one.. (there are total of 4)

    Was quoted around $1k to fix??

    Does it worth this much? Any way to check which sensor is giving me this issue? Anyone face similar problem before?

    considering how simple o2 sensors are you could always fit a generic. I've done that with all my previous cars and never had an issue. I was quoted a few hundred for one in my 944 but fitted a generic bosch one for $50 or $60.

  2. I just cringed reading that. OUCH! Reading something like that to me was like imagining getting kicked in the crotch.

    I heard a similar story from an indo driving a DC5R downshifting from 6th to 4th but was a bit too excited and hit 2nd... rev, bang.

    On another note a bit of chattering is normal from these boxes? And a slight chatter when turning the ignition off? Its def the box because there is nothing with the clutch in.

  3. I just got my car today and it stalls on a warm start. It just needs a blip of the throttle then tis fine, but it seems to idle low but still within limits. I'm gonna have it checked by the dealer first thing. It'll either be the maf or TB but i just got the freaking thing I dont want to start pulling it apart!

    Also the gearbox and clutch is tight but it chatters when I turn the engine off and the clutch out. Nothing with the clutch in. Its the only time i get any gearbox noise.

    Any ideas?

  4. Well if you can get one made for me (a CHROME one) that will fit the v35 with a SKUNK2 plemun spacer i'll pay up to $300. If it's good enough

    I did a fair bit of reading last night on the topic. I'll start with a mild steal one and if that works then I'll have my friend tig up a chrome one.

  5. I can see what you are saying BUT if you believe the gain is because of a greater volume of air making its way into the cylinders, would you also agree that with the same AFR, more air and the corresponding amount of more fuel results in a bigger boom, that is more hp?

    After all, that's what a super/turbo charger set up does but to a much greater degree.

    90% thats what an ECU does anyway. Give the correct AFR. Why bother o2 sensors if that's not the case. I'm also very confused by this "without an ECU retune" stuff. I've read it in every counter argument. In order to make any modification 100% beneficial (even running the car on 98 instead of 100octane really should be considered) you need a retune. What should be said is, same car, same dyno, with a retuned ECU without the plenum spacer and a retuned ecu with the spacer. A retuned ECU either way is bias but a test without a retuned ECU isn't going to show any 'true' gains.

    A final point on ECU's; If what you say about allowing more air into and through the engine is true and the ECU cant keep up, the same can really be said for any airfilter, intake or exhaust upgrades. I know that contradicts my above statement but 100% 'efficient' upgrade or not we know that, within reason, a freer flowing intake and exhaust will show power gains.

    Dont mean to sound like an antagonist just trying to understand what you mean.

    /hijack

    I know this is an odd (and somewhat nuebie) question but what is so special that makes the bars so expensive? I mean I have a factory bar from an SiR civic here and its pretty simple. It'd probably take me an hour to copy it. Same can be said for the brace on my SW20.

    Please correct me but my understanding is that its meant to be a fairly rigid device to prevent body/chassis roll. If this is that case how much technology needs to go into it? Serious question; I'd rather have a friend tig up a chrome one than spend a small fortune on the same thing with a sticker on it.

    Regards

    nick

  6. They are still working on the security of the firmware update. Being based in Russia they are not prepared to give out a disc that can then be pirated and they will never make any money for their efforts. Yes it is frustrating to be waiting longer than the initial quoted time frame.

    To be fair we are at 15 months but I understand every one is being very patient.

    I send an email every couple of weeks to see where we are at but they just can not tell me a fixed date at this stage.

    As soon as I know some definate information I will post it.

    Cheers

    Andy

    Thanks for the heads up. I've read through most of the thread but hard to follow as to where the whole process was. As with everyone else I'll be keen for a disc once its out.

    Nick

  7. Got my navi orginal dvds back today -Compass is spot on ! Sounds silly, but I hope people understand "True North"--this why some might think its about 90' out. Also I notice there are several settings (dont underastand them all yet) where you can fix a position and compass adjusts to N,s,e,w of that postion.

    But if you check the GPS menu it always is reflects car postion to true north. Boy I dig that groovy japanese voice on the navi also.

    I hope you realise that variation from West to east coast is only -7deg to +12deg. Not 90deg. I'd be very scared if variation was that much. Sounds more like a Gyro initialisation issue. Not sure what they run (I'd laugh if it was an actual gyro), so I'm guessing its solid state. More than likely some form of primitive INS, not an actual compass. Without an accurate GPS position fix on start up its going to be out (other than the rare ocassion it is actually aligned with the direction it thinks its pointing)

    So whats the deal? I'm looking for an 03/04 coupe and like everyone else would like to use all the features. Its been 18months and still nothing comercially available?

    Also what If I wanted to just lo-jack the TV unit and not worry about all the other features? Use it simply as a DVD player until the conversion is available.

  8. The $ is now about 10% higher than it was when we bought so you may be able to get a single for a good price off Riverside's ebay auctions...

    Yeah theres a site with them on special looking around $300 landed. Can get an aftermarket up plenum for about $350-400. Once my cars on its way I'll be ording one along with the headers I found and exhaust. It'll be stock from the time it leaves the dealer to my house.

  9. in the last 3 months....I've had 'fixed'....

    Gearbox rebuild...$4000

    Driver's door lock actuator $400

    Fuel Flap/door motor $N/A (fixed myself from spares)

    Battery $100

    Passenger Power window motor $400

    Clutch and Fly wheel (no, not part of the gear-box!) $1500

    Brembo brake pads/rotors renewed $400

    mmmmmm.......good farking thing I didn't have to pay for it!

    Extended warranty really is a good thing.

    Battery came out of my own pocket....fair enough.

    why the box rebuild? Just for the sake of it? Or thrashing it?

  10. Ok to throw something else into the mix, has anyone had any experience with the larger replacement plenums? From what I read same deal but it's the whole plenum.

    I was also wondering in regards to the skunk2 spacer, what aditional work/modification is done to adding the spacer? Something about the TB heater?

    Thanks

    nick

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