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Anonimo

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  1. Does the exhaust manifold and rear housing get red hot at full noise after a couple of runs? Possibly as Gary has suggested is the exhaust, perhaps the cat has collapsed and is creating backpressure.... or maybe your timing belt is on one tooth out on exhaust side? Your timing might be good, but exhaust cam out by 15 degrees......sometimes silly things happen.
  2. very clean and tidy mate. Looks awesome
  3. programming/designing/cadcam drawing=fun....Gopher/operator =fricken boring!
  4. Dont know for sure...but im gonna say 130mm long. The 11mm rb25 head studs are 130mm. Surely that would be pretty close.
  5. Funny you should say that, ive seen them save many turbos. Saying they dont do much is really just plain stupidity/ignorance. Having a filter, regardless if its a 15 micron oil filter or a 45 micron fuel filter is better then having nothing. If you blow your motor up, or you somehow get a large about of foreign particles in the oil, atleast you will save the turbo. At the end of the day, either option is viable.
  6. injector manufacturers dont recommend going over 80% duty cycle. Better to do it on the safe side. Actually any decent tuner/mechanic wont do it either.
  7. This is all in reference to high end pure race motors...not road cars. Drag, Drift and circuit cars only. Not including peoples road cars that see track work either. Yeh ive seen the RIPS stuff and followed some of his/their work. Very good stuff. I agree with you bubba. He seems like he holds quite a few secrets close to his chest! But with good reason. It would be nice to know if there are some things he does that he hasnt eluded to publicly. Especially when you get up in the high horsepower and big rpm areas! Everyone i know who races hybrids have to keep revs low and always seem to have bottom end issues. Often seen in engines pushing 600hp+ and see anything over 7500rpm.
  8. Crank stuff Ive noticed that std rb30 cranks are cross drilled. I guess like most production cranks. The common knowledge is that at higher rpms oil has a hard time getting to the big end journal when it has to fight centrifugal forces acting against it. As a result its usually the big ends that go first normally due to insufficient oil supply...which commonly happens in the higher rpm range. Has anyone come up with any mods (crank or otherwise) to overcome this, whether its a critical issue or not? Or perhaps even thought about it? I am aware that it helps by running higher oil pressure to overcome said forces, but high oil pressure also robs horsepower, creates excess friction and heat to both the oil and bearings. Obviously if a billet crank was being made soley for performance applications it would be a straight-line or straight shoot. Block stuff I know there are a few block mods to do to most rb30 bottom ends to allow them to handle more power for racing/performance situations.. Like drilling out the main feeds to 7mm and the bearing shells to suit. Some even goto the length of grooving the block(not caps/girdle) so you can run gtr bearings with the multiple oil holes on the top shell. Has anyone thought about or tried perhaps 360 degree grooves. So both block and cap have oil flow around the bearing? You would have to mod the bearing with oil holes so you could take advantage of this, but i would think it would allow for a constant oil feed to the mains/big end. Obviously with all these extra passages for oil to flow pressure would drop and you would need to either up the pressure or get a higher flowing pump to provide enough extra oil for these extra areas. Anybody have any thoughts/ideas/tip or tricks?
  9. I dont think anyone has tried that yet...well not openly. You could be the first to try though!
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