Kinkstaah
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Posts posted by Kinkstaah
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Catback: 2.5" Mandrel Bend Catback system. There's little-to-no options in off-the-shelf solutions, and when you find them they're very expensive. Best to get a custom system done. You can go 3" which will give you more top-end, but this will hinder your goal of improving accellaration as power down low will be decreased.
Dumb question/hijack thread but why not..
Why is this so? The guys with FI are always very big on larger 3" exhausts (or bigger) - Why is this not the case with NA engines?
And while I'm here, with a NA+T - Is there a middle ground on this? What "Rule" applies, the NA rule where too big can be a decrease in performance, or the FI rule of thumb where bigger is better?
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Great thread, would read again.
And possibly buy nikes.
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I admit I checked the links for pics before I got to this page and they were posted.
I admit that I'm no better than 99% of other guys and would fall for the kinky goth looking chick who drives a skyline.
But really, whats with the ....olollololololololo!!!!! lol!olol!OL!o O!l omgggzzzzz.
Someone had to say it..
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I thought the EPA laws were that you could turbocharge an N/A engine as long as there was a factory turbo model of that engine available, and the modifications you make bring it to the same specification, i.e. same turbo, same ecu etc. is used.
Yea I had a bit of a readup, but the issue ies (as told by both RE and Status) the intercooler and piping is all wrong. Basically upgrading the brakes would work, but I'd have to get a "stock" intercooler which may or may not be actually stock, as it isnt possible to get a standard Airbox setup working with the current front mount. And 2 intake mods = EPA fail.
In addition to paying extra for brakes. Their advice (which is sound, and what I am most likely doing to do) is to either
a) Replace the whole engine, sell the current one, upgrade the brakes.
Doable, but its a lot of stress, and will cost $$$$ in labor time undoubtably, and I have to then sell an engine with it sitting in my hawthorn apartment. Not exactly the best thing to explain to a g/f who doesnt like the car and its various stresses to begin with.
b) Bring it all back to stock, sell it (gl, me.. but at least the issues are worked out..) and buy a GTT that has it all factory installed and ready to go. Or something else entirely. I'll most likely attempt to go down this road.
As for the legality of your scenario, I'm pretty sure if you signed a deposit agreement with terms like "as is condition" written throughout then you might be stuck for legal stance. Is it a dealer or a private seller? If the latter, I would be taking this to VCAT for resolution there. Skip the courts, that's way too expensive to justify on a car, as by the time you're done with those money pits you could have sold your N/A and bought a turbo with the money.It's a private seller (technically) who operates from a Car Workshop, who can be expected to have a responsibility to have explicit knowledge of what is being sold (in my opinion) but they didn't, or didnt tell me when I asked them.
I'm sure a few people will read that and go "OHHHHHHHHHHHH.... I bet I know who that is.." but I know enough to know naming names isn't allowed on the forum.
Edit: The exact wording is "The converted vehicle is in all respects identical to the production turbocharged/supercharged vehicle"
I suppose that comes down to the definition of "In all respects", for emission standards I doubt they would care too much about brakes as brakes arent EPA, I wonder if this is escapable by just installing a stock intercooler and winging it in regards to the above dot point.
Guess I'll have to get on the phone again
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Thankyou guys for the responses, I appreciate it a lot.
You didn't check the VIN when you bought it to see if it was an N/A or t? Little things like LSD, traction control, and other lights in the dash as awell as the 3 tachos instead of the screen/shelf... although that can easily be changed...That's what I woulda looked for... not to mention the engine cover having NEO turbo on it... compared to just NEO
Tricky situation. As said above to a person who knows the car there are a shit load of tell tale signs that would show the car was a non turbo. I don't know what you could do really. Do you still have a copy of the advertisement from the car sale?Here's the thing - I did do a lot of digging before I bought the car, and found out that it definitely started its life as a Non-Turbo car. There were telltale signs that even I (with no prior knowledge of skylines) was able to pick up and discover and determine, so I went above and beyond your random DUHHH buyer of a car in working these things out and was able to pinpoint that the car came out as a NA, and had had an engine swap.
This would explain the GT dash, the blue GT badges, etc, which OFC I used as a leverage on price due to the fact it doesnt have things like Traction control, etc. Which I could live with in a RWD.
When asked about the engine, I was told it had an Engine Swap, but the replacement engine was a RB25DET NEO, which would make sense, given the person who was telling me this really should have an idea on this kind of thing, because who would replace an engine with another NA one, add a turbo, add a front mount, add a POD to a replacement NA engine, instead of doing it to a turbo engine? I mean f**k sake are people that dumb?
Seems so, because yes, it's a NA engine.
The car was checked mechanically by State Roads who issued a clean bill of health from the car too.
One thing that helps is I also was smart enough to bring other people with me every time I was at the seller's place or inspecting/testing the car. Which means it isnt one word vs one word, but it's 3 v 1, which may or may not count for something.
As for the ad, don't have it unfortunatley but I don't know if Carsales keeps this on record. There are SMS messages on the record which detail my questions and answers as well, but it would definitely be more "Misrepresentation" than anything else.
It's irritating because the only real fix to get it legal is return it to NA land, which makes me the not too happy owner of a R34 NA, given that I'm 28 and was looking for a turbo makes it f**king irritating.
But thankyou for the responses guys, now at least I know where I can look into.
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Very hard to prove as they will say any unroadworthy parts that are on the car were caused after the sale.
I agree on this, but my main concern is the engine in question. The issue unfortunately isnt as simple as someone accidentally putting awesome turbos on a car or an aftermarket ECU. that could cause problems with lovely yellow stickers and EPA officials.
Given that the Engine number hasnt changed since the sale, and still matches what was in the car when it was purchased - does this stand for much, or is it not much of a leg to stand on.
If anyone remembers my other "WTF is in this car" thread, I found the answer, (Mucho Thanko to Trent @ Status, and Ray @ RE Customs, who are doing their best to un-f*** it) and the answer is that it was/is a NA+T, when the car was sold/advertised as a GTT.
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Hello everyone
Lets just say you're looking for a Skyline, and you're an idiot, or at least uninformed, or at least not a professional mechanic who works on Skylines all day, and you're buying a car.
Is there any legal recourse for being sold a car that is not quite "as advertised", or better yet a car that is accompanied with a RWC when the car is quite obviously defectable, given that reasonable questions were asked, and answered, or rather not answered, indirectly answered or answered incorrectly, and inspections were carried out by neutral third parties.
As much as "buyer beware" is a great rule of thumb, and "suck it up and move on" is an annoying option most people choose, sometimes you can be sufficiently "aware" and still get stung, and as much as being stung is crap, and sucking it up and moving is proving expensive.
Is there any recourse? And if there is, what burden of proof applies?
I'm sure someone around here has a bit of knowledge as to where to go, thankyou in advance to that guy.
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Gotta agree with Chuck on this one.
And besides, its more visible. And if the shirts are see through then it's REALLY more visible.
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Agreed^
Our legal system does enjoy paying leniance on a gender by gender basis.
Can't have this young prettyish girl getting raped in jail.
Sure we can, and it'd make a great reality TV show.
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I read about this one and quietly chuckled to myself when expecting to hear news of an absolute apocalypse.
Seems they have managed it fairly well so far...
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First of all, thankyou for all the replies
I'll do my best to answer the points people have brought up..
Im not 100% coz im not the most knowledgeable guy here but!step1 would be chek ur engine no. to the info plate on the firewall to see if the engine is out of another car.. if the engine no. is the same then Vwolar! u have urself a Turbo strapped onto a n/a
in this case ecu will be aftermarket
if its a rb25dett most likely stock ecu or also aftermarket
put up a pic of ur engine bay would help the guys susing it out for u
I know for a fact the engine in the car has been changed, it doesnt match the engine number that's on the plate. Which is fine, I actually knew this before the same, Vicroads records has a different engine number for the car compared to what is on the plate too. The number on vicroads matches whats in the car, so that's some small comfort. I'm told it's a turbo engine, but I dont know why someone would do this in the first place then run at at 5psi, I would have thought someone doing a job like that would be hungry for more than 5psi, but I could be wrong.
I'll have to have a look for this, though knowing me I'll probably end up detonating the car in an 80's style movie explosion, I'll find a way. Hence the request for more learned people to have a look lolNice reference to Dr StrangeloveAs above, check your engine number, pull the passenger kick panel off and check the model/serial/etc on the ECU (havent seen a stock one for a while so I cant remember what to look for to identify it - I'm sure someone on here knows).
Get a stock BOV. Aftermarket BOV is unnecessary for your application and will more than likely cause engine stalls.I did some reading about this before I posted the thread, and yes - I do notice the odd stall to the point where I'm now an expert at getting the thing going quicksmart. My major worry is this, getting a random stall at a bad time then becomes a safety issue, maybe for more than just myself.
I wouldn't worry too much about the POD/FMIC... it isn't legal, you're right, but in a lot of cases it's the least of the defect problems. What you can do to lessen the problem is buy a black aftermarket air filter housing/box. Plenty of places sell, and you can even get em in carbon fibre... mmmmm.R32 GTR actuator is a relatively common mod and info can be found on SAU.
I have a friend who has a R33 GTR, would this actuator work? We had a look with it, and we thought in theory it *should* work, but didnt feel too comfortable pulling it all apart and putting it all back together again, incase it didnt fit right, and I didnt have hours at the time..
Firstly you said you dont know if your bov is plumb back or not, does it go pssssh when you back off? if it DOES NOT then its plumb back, contrary to the advice above if aint broke, dont fix, also you need to get an airbox in there, if a cop drives past and see's the fmic and then hears the induction noise there's a good chance your screwed, you said that you cant do it because of the fmic piping, thats another problem, if the piping goes along the top of the radiator then most likely someone has cut a hole in your inner gaurd for the piping, if a knowledgeable cop spots that you will need to get an engineers certificate for it.Luckily the FMIC isn't visible from the outside, the car looks very stocky which I suppose is in my favour. But I know if they pop the bonnet it's going to be lots of questions that I honestly can't answer. I'm trying to avoid this
The best I can explain in a forum about the BOV, is that when I back off it doesnt PSSSH overly loudly, unless I'm doing something like 75kmh in first gear, and even then, only briefly. It isnt the kind that I have heard around town that hiss when doing about 20kmh.
It does have a little bit of a flutter, though, at any other speed.
And here's a pic of that engine bay. I have a bigger pic if anyone wants it, this was resized as I had to send it to my email as a MMS, as I'm lacking the cable at work.
As you can see it looks like a f**king mess. Oh the ability to go back in time, this is my first car in Australia (previously lived in the USA for my driving life..) hence all the queries about laws and such and such.
And thanks again people, the reason I wanted to take it to a place is for peace of mind, and the knowledge that I have paid someone for their time and expertise (and perhaps a one stop shop for expertise/random parts that may or may not be needed..)
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Hi Guys
If you dont like newbies asking retarded questions then this is most likely not the thread for you. Yes, I did use the search option, too.
Right, now that that is out of the way... I recently purchased a 2000 R34 4-Door skyline and had some (a lot, actually) of questions about it, as after the fact I've found a few dodgy things, sadly a little too late after buying the car/didnt have the "knowledge" I have now about this kind of thing.
The car is/was originally a R34 GT NA (4 door), which has had either a turbo added to the NA enginer, or has had a RB25DET engine put in. As I know very little about these things, I am unable to determine which of these has happened.
I also don't know what ECU the thing has in it either, whether it is a Turbo ECU or a NA ECU. When I was initially inspecting the car, it did have a pretty severe performance issue as well which was daunting. This was apparently "fixed", but I am a little skeptical as to how it was actually fixed. (it certainly was noticably improved compared to what it was before the "fix"). I'd say what he did but my own lack of knowledge may get in the way.
It also seems to have a bit of custom piping and a POD Filter, and I'm told it isnt possible to put a stock airbox back on without changing some piping around due to the snorkel. As it has a FMIC also, it's in violation of victoria's lovely EPA laws... which I dont think I can fix without changing the piping. It also has an aftermarket BOV, which I have been told once, vents atmospherically, and once that it doesn't. I have no idea personally. It may as well be a can of tuna to my eyes at this point. It has no boost controller, or even the stock boost solenoid, so I believe it's running at just 5psi, yes I read that thread about two stage boost removal and had a look
If you're read this far I'm sure it sounds quite dodgy. What I'm looking for is to see what this car actually has running in it..what parts of it are from a GT and which parts are GTT, or something else. I'd like to relax when driving past police, in addition to not having the rather whiny noise especially as I'm lead to believe it doesnt really help peformance (feel free to correct me)Given all the above, I have this feeling it'll probably need a tune, too, or possibly a different actuator that can handle ~10psi (again Ive been told a R32 or GTR actuator can do this.. but youve probably noticed I have very little idea..)
What I'm looking for is a place, in victoria where I can take this thing, get the info I am looking for and perhaps source the parts (if needed) to get this thing sensible. It may already have the correct turbo parts, but id like confirmation, and I'm happy to pay a nice knowledgable person/shop to do it.
Does anyone have any recommendations of where to take it? Preferably somewhere with good attitude that wont try to take advantage of an enthusiastic car newbie.. and any (any?) idea of a kind of cost that could be involved. Obviously this depends a LOT on what needs to be modified.
This is where I say wow, what a great forum SAU is, I read it all the time at work, would totally pay $70 for a sticker, omg you guys are the best on the planet.
In all seriousness, Ive never seen such an active forum full of people who can construct a sentence and treat people with respect, and I've been on the internet way, way, way too long.
Thanks for reading my novel.
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ER34 040546:
Build date August 2000, 25GT, 4-door, HICAS, Auto, 'Athlete Silver' paint, grey interior, 15" wheels (not sure about spec).
That's all I can give you without knowing Japanese...
I can't help you with the engine number, except to say if it's a non turbo then it's a good start. If it's listed on the build-plate then it's all good.
Thats what I suspected. The engine in the car is infact, a turbo. However - Don't know if it was an engine swap or a conversion. Everything else has checked out OK.. but wanted to know if it was an authentic turbo engine, or a well done conversion before I start playing with boost.
Given a quick lookover, my non-skyline brain didnt pick it up, but researching it online really shows that the car wasnt a turbo when it rolled from the factory. But trying to confirm on the engine. Been able to confirm that the number on the block matches the number that is under the reg info for VicRoads - But not whether this is the engine that was in the car when it rolled out of the factory.
About the other thread: The guy sitting next to me at work posted there on my behalf too, the saga to find out WTF this car is has now taken over the office.
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Soo....
Can anyone run this engine number through FAST?
RB25704373X
And for giggles, run this VIN?
6U90000ER34040546
I know what I think it is, but I would love if anyone can confirm this for me.
Also: First post. Woohoo. If it all goes well you may very well all be reading some very newbie questions from me.
Quick Performance Questions...
in Naturally Aspirated Performance
Posted
Thats exactly the info I was looking for - So when it comes to NA+T forced induction rules apply, if anything, youd need a bigger exhaust than a standard turbo engine. Unless I'm completely wrong. Thanks for the thread hijack