AYW550

how did you get on with the injector cleaner? mine just started doing this also, - ive been thru the whole coil pack problem and this issue feels much different to me - after a long road trip my car now likes to 'shudder' while idling, but it only seems to start doing it after driving for about 10-15 min after it really warms up, you can really feel it sorta thumping the back of the drivers seat thru the exhaust, yet the engine runs perfectly smooth and rev needle doesnt move. engine light has not come on yet. sometimes when its bad enough it will also struggle to accelerate under throttle, but seems to go thru patches in the rev range where its nice and smooth but then sputters. about 30km before the problem started i had just filled up my tank from the 1/4 mark and wonder if i got sum dirty/old gas??? thanks.

im keen to convert the stock fan setup for an electric unit, can someone who has done this do a step by step guide? i did use the search function and found some of the stuff i was wondering, like price and brands and all the components, but no real install guide. thanks

hey there, i know ORIGIN makes the duck wing roof and boot spoilers just like that for the r34, maybe for the 33 too?

mounts for the bar do not have bolts, anyone know what size/length/thread type bolts i would need?

any opinions on the condition of those mounts?

do the mounting brackets on this bar look buggered to any one on here? its one some guy is selling but im sure it looks like some steel is missing from the mounts around the bolt holes, but he says they are good condition factory mounts, but he also says its a 23mm bar, would factory mounts even fit that thick of a bar?

i was told this also but for the front STRUT bar also - the shop said 'wont do much cos of the suspsension design' well i just put one on and its a massive difference, not only is the front end stiffer, but as a result of the new stiffness pushing down on each corner i can even feel the front suspension tracking over bumps better and not lifting the front corners of the car but yeah im pretty sure the rears are pointless, - on our sedans anyways

awesome, thanks a heap

ok good to know, cheers so the bolts have their own nuts on the back? i thought they might have bolted into the chassis

thanks, i did do a search and read that same thread some time ago, and yeah like you said, doesnt mention the pre-existence of mounting holes, ive had a look and found some holes in the right spot (i think) but they dont appear to be threaded? should they be threaded or would the bolt need its own nut on the back? and also, how hard is it to get the bar btw the car's under body and the exhaust pipe? especially if its a 2.5 pipe thats using the factory mounts, should there be enough clearence to wedge it thru? thanks again.

hey all, i have a 98 r34 sedan gt4 NA, im keen to put a rear sway bar on it and im just wondering if a sway bar will bolt onto it no problems and if all the mounting holes are already there? thanks everyone.

i had a very similar problem on my 34, checked all the same things - turned out to be that one of my front brakes were sticking (seized) on and often wouldnt start to shake until it got up to speed, jack the front up and see if its difficult to turn the wheel by hand

yup, that seems to be the go, cheers

so im jsut about to install a factory front strut brace from a gtt onto my car, its one of the adjustable ones, and im just wondering how tight the bar should be adjusted too once its bolted on? thanks

its all really easy, once you get the airbox unbolted you just need a muffler shop to bend up a piece of pipe for the intake, they should know what to do, and then once you get your pod all in place you just have to chop off the snorkle from the air box with a big wood saw, then use a smaller wood saw (like a couping saw) to shape a curve into the cut so it lines up nice and flush with the pod, you'll have to cut it closer and closer by test fitting it over and over till you have cut away just enough for it all to sit right but lots of people on here reckon a hi flow panel filter is better and alot less work, your choice try doing a search - lots of people on here have already asked and answered heaps of questions on pod filters and how to install them and all the pros and cons

thats exactly what i did, after i installed a pod filter, i cut the factory snorkle off in a half circle shape so that it rams air right down on top of the pod then built a heat shield for it - still myt make one comming up from underneath too tho - lots of room for it all to work out, comes out looking pretty good too

im in NZ, and they are made here... there were only 270 NZD

ive got coby extractors on mine 2, the seem good so far, higher top end power and more response, but the factory welds were 2 thick and the shop had to grind 2 of them down a bit to get washers on the bolts , but someone on here said coby has now addressed that issue? and someone also complained that they had the exhaust header flange warp, but it must not have been bolted up right cos its pretty thick, like 6mm

i think anything without a cannon sounds good, lol.

ive been running a set of d2 on my 34 for just over a year now and i have been very happy, i got mine new on trademe for 600 NZD i dont do any track work but i have driven them pretty aggressively thru twisty mountain roads and havent been left wishing i had spent more, although i have never used more epensive or higher quality shock to compare to.... im pretty sure my spring rates are 4 and 6 kg sometimes if you hit a harsh bump at pace that you werent expecting they can be a bit clunky in the front, but on my set up im sure the noise is a result of the shock topping out

just curious why you recomend the underun pulley kits?, as ive heard bad things on here cos they will make your water pump/alternator run slower (if you not in higher revs). ive been considering such a kit for my own car, just not the under run ones...?

sorry, i worded that poorly, i meant that the 4wd system turned on - not the 4wd light thanks for the info tho!

ok thx, ill have a look!

what about the N/A gt4 34's? some people have told me they didnt unless it was chosen as an option, but the other day i reved it up a bit and droped the clutch and the rear tires left 2 short black lines of equal length just befor the SLIP light started flashing and the 4wd turned on...

the gains i got from putting coby's on my r34 have been worth it, whats the point in putting a new system on a car if you leave the headers all restricted? i see the gains on the highway evertime i pass a car on the highway, obviously they dont make an NA into a rocket ship but they greatly allow more performance over the stock item - ive read on here you can get an extra 4 or 5 kw or something like that on the top end, which isnt much lol but something anyways for an NA and coby's arent too much, i got mine for 280 new, but i guess yours wil cost more after shipping