AYW550

<br /><br /><br />hmmm, well i dont like the sound of that...no pun intended!

<br /><br /><br />yeah true, ill deffinately look into it, i know sumday ill be opening the motor up and i think cams will be the first thing i do,,,would a power fc computer go well with a cam?

actually, i have a gt4 r34 and thanks to the attessa system, there is no "power loss to the two extra wheels". its completely rwd until the computer detects the rear wheels losing grip, then it automaticaly engages the front wheel drive until traction resumes...so while a rwd only skyline might start to spin its tires on take off EVEN WHEN DRY, the gt4 will lock up and launch, ,not to mention murdering the 2wd in the corners

check out D2 suspension, their even an aussie company, i got a set of 4 for 600$ NZ brand new cos they were clearing old stock, should have retailed for around 1500, can adjust dampening, ride hight and spring stiffness, coil overs arnt bad for a daily, mine is, and i drive on some crap roads sometimes, just need to learn where the bumps are and slow down when needed, which is better for your car anyways then just letting soft suspension take the pounding

cams are expensive!

not really, you'll just have less room btw components

ok ill look into that, i had just assumed cams would be expensive

have you experinced cases where light weight pullies made no difference?? reducing the rotating mass of a motor would decrease its work load, requiring less power to turn its self, they say its a similar effect to that of a light weight flywheel, im not saying i believe their claims hands down, but it makes sense to me...

i just did a full custom exhaust on my NA r34,,,, which is pretty much ur only choice that im aware of if your car is 4 door and 4wd like mine, i used, -coby extractos 270$ -exhaust gasket, not genuine 45$ -2.5 inch mandrel bent pipe ~60$ -x-racing high flow stainless resonator 100$ -pro racing stainless high flow twin tip european style exhaust 150$ -removing old exhaust bending and installation labour was 450$ its as loud as F#$%!!! but they arent so strict on noise here, so you'll definately want a silenced exhaust or a multi core muffler installed before the actual exhaust and before the rear axle ive found the 2.5 inch pipe to be good flow on the highway, no restriction on flow, but when cruising in town i think 2.25 would be a better diameter for the low rev range... all those prices are in NZ dollars aswell, goodluck!!

have you considered D2 coilovers? i got them on my r34 and they are gr8, fully adjustable and way cheaper

yeah im keen as to get it dyno tested and tuned, after i get my coils in and the probably the pulley kit ill do it for sure, its also a manual but is 4wd, ive tried to remove as much weight from her as possible too...

well,,,ive done -wheels and suspension -romoved entire AC system (to reduce some weight and gain a bit of power) -battery moved to the boot (improved handling) -full 2.5 inch exhaust system with high flow cat, high flow exhaust and coby extractors -POD filter with heat shield and CAI will do brakes some other day and replace them with slotted ones when the stock discs wear out, but for now they stop me plenty good that about it really as far as performance mods are concerned....about to put in new coils and plugs, and soon after that swap out stock radiator fan for an electric one as i mentioned above so, what do you think?

yeah i was interrested in thoes yelow jackets too but the retail guys say they are still in testing for the NEO

also, does any one know the dimensions of a rb25de crank shaft and crank pulley? im looking for a single belt crank pully set up, im hoping to greatly reduce the rotating mass of the crank pulley as i have removed my AC system and am planning to replace the stock belt driven fan with an electric fan but havent seen any kits with a single belt crank pulley, anyone know of any? could a crank pulley for a different type motor fit on ? id like to avoid the price of the custom route...

hmmm, well i am chasing every possible bit of power i can from my motor, and have now done most of the NA upgrades possible to my r34 without cracking the motor open, the light weight pulley kits advertise 4-7kw more from the motor plus making it more responsive...but a good number of the kits are under driven and was wondering about the side effects

yeah for sure, cant wait, im considering gettting these coils, http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/?actio...∂=26090 anyone know what brand they are? as the split fires are almost 1000 bucks

so the next upgrade i want to do is a lightweight pulley kit, some of the kits available are underdriven, by like 10 and 30 percent for the water pump and alternator obviously these underdriven kits are for high reving motors , like drift cars right, slowing down how fast the water pump pumps and the charging rate of the alternator... so would an underdriven kit be a bad thing for a motor that isnt commonly in a higher rev range?? although sumday i am planning to drive it as a weekend track car...

well turns out, as many of you had said, that the coil packs are stuffed, i hadnt retried them with the new plugs yet, but while ive been waiting for the plugs i showed my coils to my mechanic and he quickly identified what was wrong with them....on one side of the coil there is a clear plastic resin that insulates the wires, well in that resin you can see black burn marks where its shorted out,,,i saw the marks before but never relised they werent supose to be like that because all 6 coils have these marks!!!! i cant believe my car even started!! cant wait to drive the car once i get the new coils and plugs in

i can admit that in hindsight i asked a pretty ignorant question when i started this thread about coils and spark plugs, but now thanks to most peoples help on here i have a much better understanding,,,i just got a little offended when bozodos snuck in a little comment for me not to touch my car, since i consider myself a fairly good DIY guy i couldnt help but say something back, and yes i did ask the dumber question too bad however that bozodos couldnt have played a bit nicer and not thrown his toys so far out of the crib, sorry for any disturbances i caused on SAU

deffinately, thanks for the support

maybe your the one who shouldnt be working on any motors yourself, even i still knew that a NEO has its own ignitors on each coil and im good enough with a couple of tools to have had my coils and plugs out in less than an hour i just simply hadnt been exposed to individual coil packs at all before my recent misfire problem, and at first glance, a coil pack looks like it could have sat down in the cylinder in place of a spark plug, i didnt know they were only made from plastic and couldnt take the heat

mine wasnt too hard, just had to get up the nerve to start pulling hoses off, was about 10 hoses and 5 electrical connections,,,,good idea to take a picture first!

i use the same oil as ndawg, 10w60 castrol edge full synthetic for the last 3-4 oil changes, but i never have to top up btw 5000km intervals, infact the last time i went to change my oil after 5000km it was still relitively nice and brown considering it just did 5000km, so i added a wee bit to top it up and then let it do another couple of thousand kms before i changed it, and even with this engine issue, my oil consumption hasnt changed noticably

actually, according to my tuner, a problem with any part of the primary ignition system, including spark plugs, could cause that error code to come on,,,, either way, my new plugs have been ordered and ill try that first, another interresting fact is that if it was one or two bad coils i would expect to have had one or two totaly ruined spark plugs, however all my spark plugs looked exactly the same if i still have the problem then all i have to do is take the intake back off and chuck some new coils in

umm, because im pretty sure that if a good coil was firing a bad spark plug it would have the same effect as a bad coil not firing a good spark plug, meaning, that either way the result is no spark or intermitant spark from the plug