AYW550

and so the plot thickens! take a look directly under the drivers rear corner of the car behind the tire, what do you guys have? i have a complicatied looking mess of hydrualic and elictirical bits with hard lines that run toward the front of the car covered up by vented areo dynamic plastic...ill get a pic 2moro, but i think this is like the heart of the atessa system

was consdering this method cos i thought i had some coils that were stuffed and its way cheaper, but now that i got them out they look to be in mint condition, ive examined them VERY closely and cant find any cracks......unless eomthing could have happened to damaged the wrapping of the coils inside the coil? ....im also in NZ, so i dont think my coils get nearly as hot under the hood and your coils in auzzie would ...pls see my new post "coil update"

thanks for the replys guys, i understand how the wasted spark system works, but wanted to know results,,, turns out however that i wont be persuing that route anyways turns out i would need to supply the guy who makes the wasted spark system with an ignitor from and older model RB motor in order for him to wire it up, cos apparently NEO motors have an ignitor on each coil or something like that, but now that ive got my coils and plugs out.... my coils look perfectly new, i now suspect my problem is being caused by the spark plugs which have done almost 120,000 km.... pls see my other post "coil update"

sry guys, ive edited it now

lol, sry, ive got 120,000 km on the odometer, when she used to run right i could 500-600 km on a tank of gas, but now i might only get 300 km on a tank,,,but petrol bill not a worry cause i havent been driving the car cause i dont want to ruin which ever cylinder isnt firing but still is getting gas put in it

so for any of you who have read my past posts, you will no that at the moment i have a very lumpy, missing, r34 NEO motor, the engine light has been constantly on and it absolutely guzzels down the petrol i bought the car used almost 3 years ago (with 98,000 km on the odometer) and it was sweet as for about a year before the engine light made its first appearence...it would only very rarely come on, maybe only a few times a year after the first year and would always go away if you restarted the car, but it slowly got worse and now its constantly on and will not go away and gives the 'classic' 'primary ignition fault' engine code, (now have 120,000 km on the car) so after just getting a massive labour bill for getting my exhaust system installed, i decided to tackle the removal of the coils and plugs myself, now ive got the coils out, and they look absolutely perfect! no visible cracking of the casing, and the rubber boots that go down to contact with the sparg plugs are all nice and flexible soft rubber.... ive seen some pics of coils on here that other people have posted ond their coils look nothing like mine, mine look so new....also i dont think my coils are exposed to the same heat extreams as in auzzie so now im thinking the sparkplugs and the PCV valve are the culprets, both im sure are OE parts, the PCV valve looks to be all gummed up and all of the plugs are very black and covered in carbon, and perhaps its possible that the spark plugs have burned thru the resistor parts inside and might be interfering with the elictrical signals going to the coils???? im sure the plugs have done the full almost 120,000 kms what do you guys/girls think??? could bad plugs be the cause?

i did a search on this already, but want to know more recently, has anyone tried any or the wasted spark alternatives out there? results?

im running 18 x 8.5 ruff racing rims with a 235/40 yellow sea tire and my rims have quite a bit of dish at 40mm and can clear brembo calipers, so they are pretty wide...they fit the car well imo, the front tires used to make a loud scrubbing noise from touching the inside of the plastic wheel well trim when turned to full-lock (mostly only happened in parking lots and caused people to look at my car as if they were thinking wtf is wrong with ur car) but the tires will quickly cut their own groove into the plastic with no harm to the tire and then the noise will stop ...even with the dish the tires dont come out past the fender flares except for a bit at the bottom where the molding curves in a bit, but i reckon it gives it that tough look with the bit of tread sticking out

yup, thanks cara, guess ill be replacing all plugs and coils when i get my cam belt done, ....what a horrible bill that shall be

so why do coils make a spark then? isnt that the spark plugs job? lol, sry... clearly i dont fully understand the concept of how coils work with spark plugs in an rb motor do the coil packs simply replace the spark plug wires of older cars, by delivering a electrical signal or 'spark' to the spark plugs when given the right signal from the cars computer? and yes, my tuner likened it to the sound of a subaru once i got the new exhaust system on it with the engine problem

does a r34 rb25de NEO motor have spark plugs as well as coils? ive got a very badly, 'lumpy' running motor at the moment (primary ignition fault code) and am planning to get some splitfires as im sure ive got at least one bad coil, but ive been reading some other threads and someone mentioned an r34 having both NKG spark plugs and splitfire coils, so which is it? is this the difference btw series 1 and series 2 motors? im confused as F#$% now

thanks for all the help guys, looks like attesa system is the winner

how do you adjust that screw? like can you turn it al the way one way and then turn it a certian number of times back the other way, or is it just where ever the car runs best?

ok got a pic, attessa system? what the heck is that? lol, its a 4wd gt, is that what you mean by gtfour? , just noticed while taking the pic that its overfilled too lol (not my doing!)

ok il get a pic up tomorrow, i have had to top up my brake fluid (only once)...but ive done so at the front on the master cylinder....and jrm said he had nothing in that space i described, if it were for brakes wouldnt it be on every skyline?

i can get a pic if needed, but im hoping that the r34 drivers on here will know what im talking about without one....its located in the boot of my car on the drivers side just above the rear wheel and is covered by the boot interior trim .... its a clear plastic canister of some sort that is holding about a liter of oil, brake fluid oil , like dot 4 i think, in the three years that ive owned the car ive never had to top it up, is it for my brakes? or HICAS? but my car doesnt have HICAS or at least not while ive owned it... any ideas?

yeah engine light just comes on cos of primary ignition fault 21 error code, aka needs new coils, but now with the exhaust mod its on cronically

a couple of muffler shops have told me that a second resonator will do stuff all and that i need to put a muffler in the system before the actual muffler... noticed quite a difference in power, not necessarily more power tho.... cos in town there was lil difference, but once your on the highway going up to, and exceeding 100kmh the engine has alot more room to breath and there fore accelerates faster thru the gears, reckon a 2.25 system will have better power down low 'in town' but les room up top and fr future mods anyways the shop that installed it listened to me drive away and said that they would warrent it for me so no worries!

i went the coby route and yes the shop had to grind the welds down, so now i have to 'touch-up' my HPC coating, lucky for me i saved alot of $$$ and painted my extractors with flat black heat proof wood stove paint!! but the extractors look gr8 and give good power thru a broad range

my r34, ....a work in progress

whats this about the n/a r34 computer being able to re-learn? ive now done the wheels and suspension along the pod with box and CAI (just modified the stock one to direct air onto the pod like i saw someone else on here did) plus just the other day got coby extractors and high flow resonator and exhaust and i was wondering if it would be worth it to dyno and tune, but this mention of the ecu being able to relearn is interresting... will the ecu adapt to the new mods? how long do you need to drive it for? or let it idle? im currently waiting on new coils at the moment tho, wasnt too bad before, but the engine light comes on cronically now that ive got the high flow exhaust system!

too expensive, and ive already got a sweet muffler, just too much cabin drone, just need a way to tone down what i already have... i have room in the system for a second maybe even longer resonator, would this make a difference? any one know?

so ive just put coby exctractors and a 2.5 inch full exhaust system on my N/A r34, i used a 2.5 inch hi-flow resonator and a 2.5 inch hi flow dual tip 'european style' exhaust, its all VERY deep sounding which i wanted, but pretty loud, (as expected), so i want to keep the same deep sound but just make it quieter, would adding a second resonator help? or a second resonator with a silencer? but wont the silencer inside the resonator defeat the entire hi-flow idea?

thanks for the help, good to know what its for! guess ill just have to find a spot to relocate it to!

hey guys, this lil black canister is directly in the way of the cold air box i want to build around my POD, can anyone tell me what it is and do i need it? ive already had the A/C and most of its bits removed, does it have anything to do with the a/c?