funki_munki

Due to a recent Bike related accident i am selling my Bike and spare set of rims. 1xPair 20" Alex Rims Supra E Pro Triple Wall rims pratically b/new Laced to Free Agent Sealed hubs, Rear has a 15t free wheel front has a slotted axel to fit in 3/8 dropouts rear has standerd 14mm axel These rims are absolutly awesome, extremly strong and the chrome is ultimate in "bling" $300ono 20" Giant Modem G frame (21" top tube) Giant bars Primo Brake lever Giant "dog" brakes Haro Mega Forks StarsCircle light weight double wall rims anodized red,sealed front+rear hubs,rear hub is flip flop 14mm axels 13t Odyssey free wheel Shadow Conspiracy 32t Chain wheel 6061 alloy FSA Big boy cranks 4130 forged chromolly Sealed mid bottom braket Snafu red pedals Pegs (bit haggerd tho) $400ono My original plan was to use the hubs from the red rims and get them laced into the chrome rims so i could run a smaller free wheel and have the stronger rims. Perfect for someone to start riding on. Pickup only

Hey all, fitted a aftermarket steering wheel today (dished of course ) but now my indicators dont turn off automatically. Do i need to leave the hicas thingy on? the boss kit i got is a HKB one and non hicas. My car doesnt have hicas anymore so thats no drama. The HKB boss doesnt have the little cut outs for the plastic tabs on the hicas sensor. any one have this issue? thanks daniel

Due to a recent Bike related accident i am selling my Bike and spare set of rims. 1xPair 20" Alex Rims Supra E Pro Triple Wall rims pratically b/new Laced to Free Agent Sealed hubs, Rear has a 15t free wheel front has a slotted axel to fit in 3/8 dropouts rear has standerd 14mm axel These rims are absolutly awesome, extremly strong and the chrome is ultimate in "bling" $300ono 20" Giant Modem G frame (21" top tube) Giant bars Primo Brake lever Giant "dog" brakes Haro Mega Forks StarsCircle light weight double wall rims anodized red,sealed front+rear hubs,rear hub is flip flop 14mm axels 13t Odyssey free wheel Shadow Conspiracy 32t Chain wheel 6061 alloy FSA Big boy cranks 4130 forged chromolly Sealed mid bottom braket Snafu red pedals Pegs (bit haggerd tho) $400ono My original plan was to use the hubs from the red rims and get them laced into the chrome rims so i could run a smalled free wheel and have the stronger rims. Perfect for someone to start riding on. Pickup only

PM Sent

3 Sticks of DDR400 Ram Chips vary in brand all in working order when pulling out of my PC. $10 each or buy all 3 and ill throw in a Nexus Copper Heatspreader. Pickup preffered (Clearview 5085 SA). Buyer pays postage.

Thanks heaps DSTROY i found it and replaced with a resistor,now my air con functions properly

Hey all, After a bit of a search with no luck i decided to post up a new thread. Ive finally got my air con working. Had to install a new blower fan and get the system regassed. Now when i run the diagnostic i get -30 on the outside air temp sensor. Ive read the guide on how to "fix" it with a resistor and have bought 2 different sorts 1.8kohm and 2.4kohm (34degrees and 28degrees respectivly) now my issue is locating the outside air temp sensor to install the resistor. Can someone please post up a pic to where this sensor is? thanks daniel

i recently bought a new radiator for my 32 got a koyo rad direct replacement for 270 cost price from my mums work, the guy also cleaned and straightened out my old one and it was 70% blocked. as moodles2 said a .9bar rad cap will suffice,i got a cpc one and the difference between the old and new was heaps the spring on the old was soft the new one is firm. as for bleeding the system,i used a coke bottle that was chopped and held that in the radiator and filled that up and waited for the bubbles to pop up,after that i just filled the resevoir up and i keep a eye on it for the first couple of days just to make sure.

R32 GTS-T Indicator stalk pm me

if its one of the screw top ones maybe try and loosen it? if the spring is set to tight it wont open. on my turbosmart one there is a red line to show where the limit is for unscrewing it. if it came with a book the adjusting instructions might be in there? did you connect the vacuum line? when the car is running pull the vacuum line off to see if there is a hissing noise.

im interested in this aswell,when you go to do this maybe do a guide with step by step with pics would be awesome.

also if any1 has any pictures of a rb20 with these hoses attached but out of a car i would greatly appreciate them.

well im gonna try and get access to a hoist on the weekend to have a look as the final quote from jms for 3 hoses (both heater and the one under the inlet manifold) and labour was $650. I also asked if it was a gearbox/engine out job and he said no there is a trick to it. If its just a starter motor to be pulled out thats not too bad then and my hands arnt that big lol. I will try to put up a DIY when i do this for future reference for eveyone else. if any1 has info on the "trick" to doing this please let me know

its the hoses that run around the back of the head. i know the one that runs under the inlet manifold and i could do that one myself. i had a try at getting to the hose clamp for one of the heater hoses but even though my hands arnt that big i still cant squeeze it into the gap.

Hey all, Ive found out where my car is leaking coolant from. Its leaking at the heater hose closest to the inlet manifold. It looks as if the crappy wire hose clamp has split the perished hose and is now leaking. I have called JMS who gave me a quote of $550 to replace both hoses and labour. Is there anywhere else anyone can reccomend that i should take it to be fixed (cheaper/better service?never dealt with jms before)? im in Adelaide aswell. Thanks daniel

well i dont use my a/c as my blower fan doesnt work for the air con (any1 know how to fix? next on my list of jobs to do) the leak looks like its coming from the inlet side of the engine. I put my hand down underneath the inlet tonite and found one of the hoses that runs towards the back i squished it a bit and it had that brittle feel to it. Going to try to get access to a pit to have a better look from underneath. Has any1 had these hoses replaced by a shop? How much was it? Cheers daniel

well i have removed all the air bubbles from the system and had a decent look under the car and where the leak was coming from. i couldnt get a precise spot from where its leaking but i can see its coming from where the inlet manifold side is. Im going to pull the manifold off to have a look at the line that runs between the runners of the manifold? and check for cracks. Is there anything else i should be looking for if its leaking on that side?

I had the same problem, exept my right headlight didnt work at all. What i did was meter the voltage without the globe connected. both headlights metered the same but when a globe was plugged in it wouldnt work. The way i fixed it was re-wired both headlights with relays on it. Its about a hour worth of work and will cost about $20 for the relays but it fixed it and havent had a problem since. I have read of people pulling the switch apart and cleaning and bending the connections on the switch,i just cbf pulling the switch apart. my 2c anyways.

cheers for the info,will have a look on the weekend.

Hey all, Have a R32 with a coolant issue. Sometimes it wont leak coolant other times it will,cant really see where its coming from as its the back of the engine (suspect welsh plugs). I flushed the whole system and filled with water and stop n seal stuff from super cheap. flushed the whole system again and it didnt leak for about 2weeks, the other day there was a puddle of coolant under my car. So i topped up the radiator and resevoir and it didnt need that much in there. Left some cardboard underneath it last night and nothing leaked which has got me confused. Has anyone else had this issue? New welsh plugs? Are they hard to replace? (engine out kinda thing or drop out gearbox and tilt engine down to access?) Anywhere i should be taking it in Adelaide to get these done? i dont want to take my car to somewhere they wont look after it. Thanks Daniel

im having the same issue with my turbosmart type 3 plumb back ( dont have it on the car currently) ive cleaned it out so the piston slides nice but its only at higher revs when it will open at lower revs it simply doesnt open and i get flutters. have thought about buying a different rate spring to go into it to make it a bit easier for it to open. Im only running stock boost tho (9psi). interesting to see how this is fixed

interested in the sub box,does it push all the way back to the rear seats?does it fit under the rear window wiper?

ok well just had another shot at it and the master wasnt springing back the cylinder kept getting jammed at the end,it looks as if the guy who put the new seals in put ones that were too big .that would explain why no fluid was being bled through.dad is going to take it back to the guy who did it and ask him WTF? will let you know how it all works out tomorrow :S

pivot? (might be a noob question) the bit where the pedal hangs from? had the master rebuilt today but its not bleeding properly the pedal still goes all the way to the back even if you barely touch it and doesnt spring back.and when pressing on it the slave doesnt even twitch.is there a special way to bleed this system as it has that block thing that the fluid goes in then goes out in a loop and comes back and then to the slave?

ok well found a kit at sprints $12.95 in case any1 else needed to do this,but now my master is leaking so that wont be done until tomorrow. Would there be anything else that would make the clutch pedal depress all the way without springing back? the spring is still connected on the pedal and none of the mounts are broken? is it just the master thats stopping this or is something else wrong?