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WTD R32 4 DOOR NON TURBO DON'T CARE IF IT'S AUTO OR MANUEL AS LONG AS IF IS NON TURBO IT FINE DON'T CARE ABOUT IT CONDITION MUST HAVE REG NEEDED URGENTLY MUST BE VICTORIA CALL JORDAN ON 0430223677

R33 gtst front suspension thing, caster arms, top arm things, hubs, calipers, discs, left and right, complete, 5stud $250 for both front $150 ill come pick up tomorrow?

Mate get another ign module and try that im 90% sure u have a bad connection in your current one causing ur rev guage to spike, my commodore done the exact same thing but i managed to re solder the dry joint. the rb20 ign modules are not repairable unless ur an expert! also pull out both connections of the module and check for mousture etc blow it out with a compressor that could cause a problem like this

Ok cool ill get some prices and hopefully get it organised, thanks for ur help, ill keep use updated. oh and titan ur av is so trippy hahaha

yeah i dont really want to spend $600 + for an exhaust how about a resonator do they have any effect on silencing at all?

Ok cool thanks guys will swing passed an exhaust place later on today for some prices

hmm ok will that silence the car? its like stupidly loud right now

Hey everyone Finally got my rb20 in my s13 running perfect, i bought a cat back system off a mate the other day and its wayyy to loud, its got a 3inch turbo back and front pipe once peice, bashed out cat with a pipe inside it then a 3inch straight pipe! its so lound sounds awsome but its too loud What should i do to silence it about 30% but not reduce the power, will a cannon at the end silence it? or a hotdog i know a muffler will but will i loose power? thanks

Yeh check fuses in the bay you might have blown a fuse when connecting the polarity the wrong way around also get a multimeter test from earth anywere and to the posotive terminal on the back of the alternator, im pritty sure its a thick white wire coverd by a black gromet with a 12mm nut see if your getting power there if not then there is a break in the circut from that to the battery

haha i had to get rid of it man taking up so much room in the garage and put me off working on my car so its gonee

Hey guys got a ca18de new headgasket and waterpump and timing belt complete motor, i cant get rid of it someone please come and take it its taking up too much room in the garage Call me on 0431 404 796 Located in Reservoir - Andrew

yeh thanks mate got in contact with him, profec and autometer boost guage sold pending payment

Hey ill grab the profec and chuck in the faulty boost guage? were abouts in melb are you cheers

Up for sale is a ca18de auto that came out of my s13, auto still bolted on comes with engine loom ecu cas afm airbox s13 k-frame and tailshaft most parts are there just one coilpack missing as i used it for testing the motor is on 96xxx kms and has had a new timing belt and tentioners, new waterpump, changed head gasket and has never missed a beat very strong and healthy motor. Will also come with a stainless Top mount t3 turbo manifold with ex gate (ebay) for an extra $100 im chasing about $300 im open to offers or swaps for wheels etc need it gone asap! can get picks at request but it just looks like a motor Located in Reservoir Contact Andrew on 0431 404 796 or pm

yeh i think i followed that guide but it didnt say anything about alternator wiring? unless i read it wrong

Hey guys, I just finished my s13-Rb20 conversion and would like to post up afew tips since i had to learn the hard way were my alternator was incorrectly wired up and was giving the motor a constant 15v which caused a misfire and destroyed a coilpack, so on first start up get a multimeter and measure voltage at battery while engine running shouldn't go more then 14.4v This is just a guide from my experience i take no responsibility for anyones faults To do the conversion you will need the following Rb20 K-frame S13 Gearbox mount S13 Tail shaft (manual) Rb20 Motor + loom + ecu Ok so once you pull out your old motor change the k-frame over but use the std s13 power steering rack and pump, the motor will drop straight in and everything will bolt straight up thats the easy part For the wiring you will need to do the following, There is a 8 Pin plug with Spade terminals right near the front left headlight off the rb20 loom, there will also be another plug on the s13 body loom and you will need the following Grey Plug s13 Black/Red join to Rb20 Black red and white/purple is your ignition s13 Red join to Rb20 White Black ecu memory backup Brown Plug s13 Orange on another plug next to your powers is your fuel pump which is the Black/Pink wire near the ecu plug (run a wire from ecu plug to fuel pump) Now thats done you will need to swap over your starter motor loom, will all unplug and plug in just don't worry about the knock sensor plug as the rb eng loom has it. Everything should plug straight back in And thats it your done you should have your rb20 running in your s13 If motor was previously a auto there will be a two pin plug with fat wires that go to the gearbox loom you need to join the two pins together so that the car cranks. For your cluster connections please follow the following, Note i have only used this to connect my temp guage for now and for it to work you will need the temp sensor off your old motor in the s13, its just a 12mm nut with one spade terminal coming out of it RB Plug 1 Gnd – black with yellow stripe (ground) Tm – blue with black stripe (temperature gauge) Oil – yellow with white stripe (oil light) Belt – yellow with black stripe (seat belt light/chime?) Door – red with white stripe (door open light) Exh – orange with black stripe (exhaust gas sensor light) Ign – green (ignition switch power) Acc – blue (clock power) Bat – yellow (no idea) Plug 2 Ill+ – red with blue stripe (illumination power) Ill – black (illumination ground) Om – yellow with blue stripe (oil pressure gauge) Tam – yellow with red stripe (tach signal) Beam – black (high beam ground) Beam+ – red with green stripe (high beam light power) Gnd – black (ground) Sw1 – yellow with green stripe (no idea) Sw2 – black with yellow stripe (no idea possible ground) Hicas – green with white stripe (hicas warning light) Brk – white with purple stripe (handbrake/brake fluid warning light) Chg – white with red stripe (alternator charging light) Plug 3 Ign – green stripe (ignition switch power) Bm+ – white with blue stripe(boost gauge signal) Bm – black with yellow stripe (boost gauge ground) Fm – green with blue stripe (gas gauge) Gnd – black with yellow stripe (ground) Fuel – red with black stripe (fuel warning light) T/l – white with green stripe (left turn light) T/r – green with yellow stripe (turn right light) S13 Plug 1 Chk engine – red (check engine light) Cruise – black (cruise control ground) Cruise+ – green with white stripe (cruise control light power) Abs – blue with red stripe (abs light) Exh – red with blue stripe (no idea, different on every car) Fm – green with blue stripe (fuel gauge) Fuel – red with black stripe (fuel light) Ill – red with yellow stripe (no idea) 2p – yellow with green stripe (no idea) Japanese symbols – yellow with blue stripe (no idea) Plug 2 Ill+ – blue (clock illumination) Ill+ – red with blue stripe (illumination full) Tam – yellow with red stripe (tach signal) Japanese symbols – yellow with black stripe (no idea) Beam 1 – pink with black stripe (high beam ground) Beam 2 – red with green stripe (high beam light) T/r – green with yellow stripe (right turn light) T/l – green with black stripe (left turn light) Gnd – black (ground) Plug 3 Door – red with white stripe (door open lamp) Ign – green (ignition switch power) Oil – yellow with white stripe (oil pressure light) Brake – yellow with purple stripe (handbrake/ low brake fluid light) Tm – blue with black stripe (temperature gauge) Chg – white with red stripe (battery light) Gnd – black (ground) if anyone needs any help feel free to pm me and maybe we can sticky this thread i dont know if its in the correct section So now that mine is finally running 100% it has really good tourqe and power more then a stock sr

Ohh sorry i meant Beagle!, i had a similar problem but i was converting my s13 from ca18de auto to rb20det manual, and had no spark of injector pulse turned out to be a faulty loom, but i highly doubt it because ur car is stock and untouched well the loom is. so my next suggestion is get a mate with a 32 and swap cas over, that will control spark and injectors

FIXED! was getting 15v from the alternator :S nowere in the conversion guide does it tell you to use the origional ca18 alternator loom there is one plug that is wrong. Ahhh the beuatifull power of a rb20 in a s13 its amazing!!!!!

do you have ign module pm me price thx

sorry to bring up old thread but did you get the car running? ive got same conversion but i have a bad missfire and cant figure it out! any help would be great thanks

ahh ok fair enough so i had fuel the right way around, i put it all back together and still missfire! one of the coilpacks looks like it has blown apart with this white plastic coming out of it now im out of ideas im ready to burn this car down!

ok i ended up pulling them out just to inspect them they all looked clean and all pulsed i hooked them up one by one and spun cas with no fuel in it and seen them pulse. one thing i noticed is that the two earth terminals that earths on the intake manifold the 10mm nut was loose and while i was testing the injectors i had to earth that for it to work so im thinking that was my problem, and just to doubble check what is fuel in and return on the rail. its confusing me because there are 2 fuel regulators ive got my fuel in going to the top line, which runs to the back of the rail is this correct? thanks guys

ok thanks for that ill give it a shot, ive opend and inspected the afm and it was all orange and rusty (had water in it) i sprayed some contact cleaner and blew it out with the compressor but it didnt make a difference. Ive also opend the cas that was abit dusty blew that out with the compressor and still the same but ill give that a shot when i get home at 5. Is there a way of checking blocked injector with it still in the rail? can i unplug the rest turn ign on spin the cas and see if it squirts?

hmm i just bought one from jap heavan which is a 04u00, still has a bad miss only thing left i have to check is if the injector is blocked everything else has been checked!

ahhh so its a R33 GTS25t RB25DET Series 2 Manual RWD 23710 13U01 MEC-R721 A1 6913 i cant belive that the motor runs! thanks for that