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So with the larger slave, progression is lost, but pedal feel is heavier?, that makes sense,mmm.....maybe is should go back to stock slave and see how it feels....not too hard to do i guess???, willl need to bleed the clutch again though.

hey vspec, the pedal feel is very light (i have a larger slave and nismo twin), but yeah the clutch is quite an on/off sort of one, me, and all my mates stalled it a few times, but im getting used to it, there is a bit of slack there, but not much, you need to give it a few good revs to get it to go, nothing big though, im used to it now. P.s: yes i also though when people said that the clutch feels like stock, that they meant in pedal feel,and in progression between engaged/disengaged, the later is not true:)

wheres the adjuster then mate?,m and can i get to it from inside the cabin???

the rears smelt the most, i couldnt tell you which one was the culprit though sorry. i attached the pic now!

Hey guys, we converted car to manual in the weekend, and having problems with brakes, after about 15mins driving, they started to heat up and the pedal was extremely hard, and the brakes had engaged to i would say around 70-80%!!!, i could smell them, luckily i managed to get home....only thing i could think would cause it(which i havent tested yet), is the adjustment of the pedal may need to be made??? as per the pic in the attachment (which i circled in yellow), does this sound right, we did play around with it when doing the conversion. what i need to know, is what the default adjustment should be, or how do i know i have got it right?so that they are never engaged until i want them to be. What is this adjuster for any how, and how do i adjust it? and whats the easiest way to test my brakes, without driving???, safety comes first please help thanks

im going to do it tommorow btw:, i went from an auto rb25det box to manual rb25det, and we left the manual speedo sensor in when we done the conversion, which is why i have to change it. I was told that i can still use the automatic speed sensor and plug it into the manual rb25det box(any wiring need to be done????), and this will correct all my speedo problems(ie driving 100km, speedo showing 50km), and hopefully my power steering issue aswell? thanks in advice. p.s: whats the easiest way to confirm that my power steering is not working at all???i think the unit has failed!

I need to replace mine and was wondering if i will need to drop my rb25det box to get to it or not???

thanks, any help on the speedo problem, as this is the main issue.......is it possible to replace the speedo cable whilst the box is in, or will i have to pull it out again?

Hey guys, i converted my car in the weekend from auto to manual(rb25det). The box that i used was from a 97 series 2 r33, and had done 51000kms in mint condition. The conversion went through all ok, but one thing, the speedo is way out!!! questions; 1)should i use the auto speed sensor or the manual one? 2)do i need to re-wire the sensor? 3)where should the sensor go for the manual box, and to where should it go in the engine? i just want to confirm ive done everything right trust me, the speedo thing is causing me more problems then anything else, ie power steering is lost and otehr things....help!

thanks mate, this helps alot:)hopefuly its just a speedo thing

hey ok, now that worries me again. I cant test as i have said, but if what you say is true, then i need to check elsewhere.The brakes arent engaged all the time, i mean i test this by parking on a hill and leaving it in netral and handbrake down...car rolls......now after ten minutes or thereabouts of driving, park up on hill leave it in neutral and handbrake down.....car doesnt even move!, and the brake pedal is nearly fully engaged.....whats the cayuse of this, im scared to drive anywhere right now.oh and every time i touch the brake pedal,i hear a noticeable click noise. can you post a link on how to adjust the link rod, if thats the cause, and is their a factory setting it should be set at....im going to have to try one by one i guess.....coudl this also affect my power steering, as right now its extremely heavy! another question: since i replaced the brake pedalbox from the auto one to a manual one when doing the conversion, was the brake master cylinder supposed to be bled in aswell??

thanks for that, i ll have another look afterwards, but yeh its really heavy mate!.....from what i understand, you removed the factory hicas unit and all the plugs connecting to it, and replace with hicas lock bar, and hide away wiring, and be done with it, oh and alignment of course.

hahah, mines not too bad now, im slowly getting better:)

cant test it yet:(

Anyone know rough cost of the bellhousing bolts and the oem part no?, as im missing a few after the conversion from auto to manual r33 rb25det thanks

as per the attachment, that connection going into the resevoir, what is it for???, as we done an auto to manual conversion in the weekend, and forgot to plug that connection in, and coincidentally at the same time, the brakes started to engage on their own after some 10mins of driving, and the brake pedal was extremely hard, and they all were smelling, was this the cause for it, im hoping so:)

oh what!, so with keeping the auto diff, my speedo is going to be out either way???? i never knew that! and i thought that the steering would get hard by default if the power steering unit shuts off????and does the r33 have a hicas computer aswell, which is what controls the power steering in the r32's i beleive

Hey guys, i removed my hicas with the hicas lock bar according to the write up by geoff, and the hicas light shows up on the dash, but more importantly, i have no power stering at all. I done this at the same time i done my auto to manual conversion. Now, when i took the car for a drive, the speedo was working, but off by heaps!, like when im going 100km, it says im going 30km, the revs seems to be showing ok though. I was thinking that since power steering is electronically controlled to be light at low speeds, that if the speedo is not functioning correctly, the controller shuts off, thus making steering hard? p.s when i done the auto to manual conversion, we used the auto speedo cable into the manual gearbox sensor. does this sound right?or is this how r33's get after removing HICAS?

hey guys, this is really good to know, we changed from auto to manual in the weekend, and also done the hicas at the same time, and now my steering is extremely heavy aswell!!!......and my rev counter is all ok, but my speedo reading is working, but the readings are all off....could i have a speedo cable problem aswell??? when im going 100km/hr, the speedo is showing around 40km/r:(.....what do you think, also stering feels likes there no Power steering assists at all. i have an r33gts25t, and converted to a rb25det manual box.

well ive been reading up on some threads, and ppl are saying that when removing hicas in an r33 gtst, you lose the easy steering at low speeds, since hicas unit controls the front power steering assist? edit: id like to add, i had done a manual conversion at the same time of doing this hicas lock, and my speedo is off by heaps, i was told this could contribute to the power steering issue, as its electronically controlled against the speed of the car, and may have just cut off altogether?

how do i adjust the pedal ride height?

checked fluid and still very very heavy stering, i didnt take anything out from the boot, just took out the hicas unit and the plugs(loom) that connected to it, and replaced with the lock bar.

Just converted my auto rb25det to manual, and have a few issues: 1) car reverse light not working 2)car speedo is way off 3)oil temp guage goes to max in neutral, and goes to nil when in gear 4)prolly the main issue, the brakes are engaging while i drive, and it was gradually getting worst, till it got so outta hand that when i even feathered the brake, the brakes were applied so bad, it was nearly 100% on, i was wondering why the car was going slow hahaha....trust me the brakes started to smeell too....anyone come accross this issue, as its quite a serious thing to not have brakes working , or working all the time......to test i put the car in neutral and handbrake down on a hill, and the car did not even move at all.....thats how much pressure is applied to the brakes, and is engaging for no reason!

hahaha, at least your going from stock clutch to twin clutch.......try not having driven a manual car in 5 years, then doing an rb25det auto to manual conversion,with a brand new twin plate clutch, thats where i am atm lol!

i find taking off the hardest bit, is there a sweet spot i gotta get used to?, how do most drive using these sorta clutches?