gtrGhosTDoGG11

Depending on which pod you get, some are louder than others. I have an Apex one, and it whooshes like no 2morrow. If you boost, it will attract attention, and I dont like that. The panel will be the best choice if you dont want the sound, and less attention. THe pod is legal if it is mounted to the car, so it cant wobble around, but a commong mistake cops do is, they pull you over for thinking you have a BOV but really you only have a POD. This has happened to me, they checked the BOV and came to the conclusion that this BOV just must be louder than normal etc. If the POD wasnt there in the first place, wouldnt have had the trouble. But then again, I shouldnt have boosted right near them, but how am I gonna pick up speed to maintain the speed of the traffic behind me? Those are just my thoughts, yes the induction noise is tuff, but I wish the pod didnt have to go pssst after you let go of the throttle.

K&N Panel Filter I vouch for. I heard UNI Filter is just as good and cheaper around 80 whereas the K&N is 120. I changed to a POD, and now turning back to panel, wanting to keep it quiet.

thanks max for not telling me you were not coming thanks for not having your mobile on thanks for wasting my time (its at least 20 mins for me to get there) its cool not to be able to make it, all you have to do is tell me, so i dont waste my time *end rant

No worries, I can drop down PVP today or 2morrow to switch em. I dont think you will need to change computer, iam not sure if they would check it, but better be safe then sorry and change it, better take the hand controller thiing out, might as well change the computer over too since you've done the hard work to get there. Anything else? Steering wheel? Just give us a holla. Will

You can borrow my drivers seat. You can borrow my computer.

Hi Maxx, might of accidently killed your pm due to inbox cleanup? Please resend pm!!

Oh also, try this if it still occurs My idle is really crappy and it hunts around a lot when on idle. What can I do? The first step when installing the PowerFC is to let it idle for upto 30 minutes on your car so it adjusts to your engine setup. This includes turning on the Aircon, Demister and Heater throughout the idle stages so the ECU has time to learn the engine setup and idle levels. This can be done by doing an "initialize" on the PowerFC. This will reset all settings back to default (including your tune) and set the PowerFC back to learn mode (for idle only). You should not do this if you have a tune as there is no way to save the tune before it is erased. If you have datalogit or the FC Pro cable/software you can copy the maps. Preform the initialize and then reupload the maps. A few people have seen really screwey idle from the Hand Controller itself being plugged in. The workaround is to unplug the Hand Controller and it idle's normally. This is a very strange problem and certinaly not common. Initial suggestions would lead to an electrical problem somewhere?

Heya popeye, i researched a bit, that light that turns on, the power fc uses that to warn you that something has reached a limit. Could be knock, boost, fuel, something. From the FC FAQ: Why does my engine light flash when I drive with the PowerFC? The PowerFC uses the factory engine warning light to alert the user of "upper limit" or ceiling values in the engine systems. Things such as airflow meter max value, injector max duty, excessive knock will cause the engine warning to flash. Usually the engine flash is in a sequence of 3 flashes each 0.5 seconds apart. Should you experience this you should review the hand controller max values (press down when in monitor mode and displaying values to see the max values for each) and consult your tuner immediately. Excessively high knock can cause engine damage. Running on max injector duty can also be fatal so speak to your tuner. Aggressive tunes that are tuned around winter temps/airflow and being run hard in summer may cause these symptoms if the tune is very aggressive and on border line of maxing out the stock components. This is only hearsay but I have seen this from at least one or two members. The car was probably tuned on high octane jap fuel, must get it retuned mate, with our fuel. Even with our octance booster and our fuel, it will still not be able to match the jap ron i believe. Wish you all the best mate, expect delays, so u dont get dissapointed. Will

No worries mate, hope all goes well.

Burning in my car alive, that sold me.

Yes a funny noise is coming from my timing belt area. Its an abnormal whirring noise, and follows up with higher revs. It started when I replaced the timing belt to a trust one. We thought it was rubbing something, but didnt do anything. We tightened it more, it got louder, we made it less tigher it made less noise. Strange. Driven around 20,000 kms with this noise, nothing wrong, still pushing 172 rwkw. What are the part numbers of the above parts from nissan. They dont seem to expensive, might get it done. Approximate labour is the same as timing belt? Thanks

Give it to me! You dont own a r33 prince!

What happens when you cut off the power to the fc? Does it still remember the tuning you have done to it? Or does it go back to the standard stuff.

Hi, What is the above? And what does it do? And what if it breaks, what will happen? Thanks.

Sup

Have you got the ashtray?

What happened to the sticky? Oh well, donation will still occur. Popeye, got your message, and sent you an email.

would of been slippery. careful now. =p

Do you think RACE RADIATORS are better?

Of course its turbo, who would paint a lightning bolt on a slow car? Not that theres anything wrong with painting a lightning bolt on a non turbo car. I see a FMIC, should be turbo, and from the price, I would suggest it wouldnt be stock either. Dont see many bright red R32s around free bump.

What power can a GTR pump handle? Considering it is probably 10 yrs old.

Good news, keep up the work.

No worries Alan, iam sure I'll know when the GTR comes so I can drag it... on the race track of course. :cooldance

Ok - Iam definite, we need another 3 correct?

Keen on trading with 180SX yet?