haleja

Car has been SOLD.

SOLD, Thread can be executed.

PRICE DROP $8700 Make an offer guys!

8th pic down shows the panel damage, just needs to be pulled out. and the front left quater panel will cost $220 from grand auto (a nissan wreckers down south). you can find cheaper parts no prob. the AFM is the airflow meter. the pod filter bolts onto it (its a little box). just needs to be removed, take the top off, resolder 5 pins, then put it back together. - the problem that it causes is that the ECU cant detect the airflow meter, so it goes into a safe running mode, in which it wont rev over 2500rpm. when driving this causes the car to just "cut out" for a split second. then come back to life. it skitzed out on new years, so i just jumpped out and pushed/wiggled the plug into the AFM so the join reconnects and ever since then it hasnt had an issue. so, untill you fix it or replace it. the car MAY randomly loose power. which if it does, you can just shake the plug and it will fix it. (for an unspecified amount of time) probably untill you go over a decent bump. a new airflow meter will cost (I THINK) $150. not a big issue.

PRICE DROP Will take $6000 cash. Need this beast gone.

PRICE DROP $9000! Will consider swaps for a wagon!

PICCIES!

Series 1 R33 Gtst Skyline - Wine Red - Black/grey interior - 160,000 original Km - 5 speed manual - 17" rims - alarm/imob - Turbo timer - 3" turbo back exhaust - Kenwood headunit, 6" front, 6/9" rear speakers - Great condition, original unmodified (slightly) car!! $9500ONO Located in southern adelaide, looking for quick sale, MAKE AN OFFER! contact VIA PM please. (puncture was getting fixed thus the space saver!)

Touch'e hahaha

Need to get rid of my R32, Features.. (in no particular order) - R33 turbo [Running 7 pound due to the actuator, will come with boost T] - Blitz tuned ECU - Full 3" Dump back exhaust [ Car will come with Cat] - 500hp Walbro fuel pump - Shortshifted Manual - Heavy duty clutch - Front mount intercooler - Clarion Speakers w/pioneer headunit - Solid trans mount - Nismo type S struts and Lowered springs [still quite high, will not draw any attention at all, yet has a firm ride] - very (VERY!) clean interior - alarm/imob + remote centeral locking - Pod intake rather than air box - 17" rims (8.5" front, 9" rear..i think. its about that) - car has only got front and rear GTS bar, no skirts or anything so it looks quite stock (how i wanted it), however, i have a BN sports bodykit in the shed if you would rather.. Negative.. - A/c doesnt work as Compressor has seized, replace and it will work - panel damage to the Rear left of the car, apparently the prev. owners mate reversed into it or something. - has repaired damage to the front of the car, no idea what happened, but the car drives and brakes perfectly straight. - front left quater panel is red but has been spray painted black. exterior isnt 100%, could do with a spray. - solder joints in the AFM where the plug joins on have screwed out. all you need to do it take it out, open it up and blob some solder in there. one has cracked so the engine freakes out randomly (fails to detect the AFM so it wont rev over 2500) car has done about 140XXXKm. everything is legit. ive done a rego & regency history check. car is currently regestered. idealy i will sell this car sooner rather than later. i wont put a price up here, but if your interested, send me a PM of your offer. (i will run it in a "silent auction" sort of way.) if someone offers me what i want. BAM its yours. (and its not too much.. lol) will get pics in the next day/few days - Rules say i need a price.. so... $7000 and its yours today. (whatever day it is you read this) - ive got a buddy that wants this car for 7, but is getting a loan, no idea whats happening with it though. tempt me and its yours.

i got a mint one in SA for $10000, untouched bar catback and rims.

untouched R33 for $10000 Bitsa R32 for $7000 both manual and turbo in SA.

i might be looking for a buyer for my R32. road reg. but has been in a front ender at some staged and repaired. (drivers perfectly, im just fussy about history), has some panel damage. - im selling it to a buddy, but if it falls through it might be on the table if your interested.

timing light shows ignition timing, not cam timing. i havnt been at work over the long weekend thus me asking on here haha. mechanics or not, i needed someone to discuss this with. chances are its running how it was before, but im just used to the skyline haha.

ya recon? the car came with them and still isnt performing as well as it was before service. - what should they be changed to? factory ones?

hmm, considering multiple problems would be a rare posibility, and the reaction from proper fuel. injectors could be an issue, or the filter. i dont know if its a learning ECU, maybe its shit its self. and the dissy wasnt touched. could be the leads if they got screwed when being changed (there 7.00mm leads rather than fact.)

ahk, so still a fuel problem. that.. would be amazingly awesome. i do NOT want to go back to the timing belt. to replace it we needed to remove an engine mount, (3 piece, which 1 piece you cant remove unless you take the timing cover off at the same time, AND will not go in unless at the same time as the cover, which is near impossible as the mount piece needs to go in from the top and the cover from the bottom..) so that amoung the general no room and an "impossible to get leverage to tension the tensioner" tensioner, makes ever looking at the timing belt a total C**T! - although i can look at the top timing marks on the cams with the removal of a few bolts. - but cant turn the engine over (by hand) with out removing a wheel and probably lowering the engine/raising the car anywho, im REALLY keen to fix it with out going through any of that. so a fuel issue would be a blessing. - so would we say the verdict is, that it has rand down to E, used some shit fuel (so it was running bad), which has also clogged the injectors/ blocked the filter, to leave the symptoms with the car? i recon it sounds good... lol

** i dont know if it takes off as well as before, but there is a noticable power gain when it hits it.

havnt had the plugs out, but they are hte correct part for the car. we put some fuel in it and straight away its running alot better. i think theres still something up with it though. seems to lack power down low then when it hits the power band it takes off (like a normal car) its just really quite shit before it hits it. so solved = no power at all.. ever due to shit fuel new symptom = runs meh (not as bad as before) before it hits power band, then takes off like it should once it hits it.

yeah today ill check the plugs and give it some fuel if i get time, MERRY CHRISTMAS!!! and thanks for your replys

replaced alternator (pumping out 14+v when charging) replaced spark plugs replaced water pump replaced timing belt oil/filter change coolant change umm.. think thats about it. the cars fuel guage reads fark all, so it could be a fuel thing (if the symptoms fit) the spar plugs were speced for the car, but didnt check gaps (possibly too large?) car engine temp is normal idle is normal from what i recall (its not dramatically screwed) operation sounds fine, maybe a bit gutless (but not running on 3 cyl. or misfiring) hope it helps.

yeah i think its timing as well, but as i said, when we put the belt on it was spot on, so im assuming it wouldnt be out by much if it has slipped or something. which then denotes that the car shouldnt be running THAT badly??? i dont know. cheers for your thoughts.

howdy, this is actually about my girlfriends MR2 (2l N/A engine0 the car recently had its timing belt changed as well as a fairely major service, and since we have had the car back it has no power at all. as in, if your in first and floor it, it will take 20 sec to get to 4.000rpm (no joke..) it just doesnt have any power or torque. idles allright yet under no load (clutch in/ neutral) it still takes a while to accelerate *(not as bad as under load) what the hell is goin on? is the timing out a tooth? would bad timing affect the car this much? (fuel tank is nearly on E, could it be bad fuel?) spark plugs were changed at service (is the gap wrong)? im sorta out of ideas for what could be the reason for the shit house power, could be running on 3 cylinders [but doesnt run lumpy so i doubt it]? - all i can think of is timing, but i did it myself with a mechanic ( im an apprentice), and was perfectly in, SO, IF it is out, it would only be a tooth (which i doubt) and if it was would it be this devistating to the cars performance? cheers for helpin.

you raise a good point, if it aint on properly its gonna go boom (if you have no valve clearance anywho) ironically, my gfs MR2's thermostat shat its self on the weekend. did you know that if your boil your coolant the radiator cap whistles like a kettle? lol - and PUDZ, why not replace the bearings?

do it.... IF.. you REALLY want to. MTA would be the best way to go around it. they give you tools and stuff which is all good. BUT remember, MTA is a UNION for the MOTOR TRADERS. ie. dealerships and workshops. there the union for your boss. MTA train apprentices because there union members want it. so note. that not only are you your bosses bitch, your their unions bitch as well. i work for BEA motors. or shall i say HOSTED by bea motors. so yes, i get to work on mercedes all day. which means im one of the lucky ones that got a decent placement (compared to some guys working at profix...) if your keen, you can and will learn a TONNE. BUT> the money is pathetic, and always will be. so become a mechanic IF you just want to get a trade under your belt and then move on. OR own your own business... or i guess if your contempt with working in a harsh environment and earning near F&%^ all. that said, it does have its perks. IE> cheap car parts, free hoist useage and the skills to fix ya own stuff. not to mention start your own business or just do cashies on the weekend. (thats where you earn $50 a hour) ohh, and i was talking to a diesel fitter working up at mount prominant earning a bucket load. he was saying that a qualified light vehicle mechanic can go over there and get a job on 100k a year easy. granted you need to adapt to that way of living (which is why i recon mine people get paid so much. 2 weeks on, 1 off etc. etc.)