Galois

just wondering, do they have a division for turbo skylines? or at least 30L NA? just thinking that you're going entry level skyline engine size vs top levels of other brands... definitely interested to see how much power you can get out of it tho mate

thanks for the help guys, i'll get an o2 sensor very soon. +1 for 8100 being just fine. it will get into the small components and round your engine and turbo quicker, reducing initial wear of components before the oil reaches them. AND immediately as its being used it will heat up and catch up quickly to the 10w viscosity (i know it'd be chasing a moving visosity target but they'll get closer and closer). also, as said above, the weights are effectively just an approximation, and as birds has said many many times, there is very little difference between 5w and 10w 8100 was by a really long way the best oil i have used. i'll be picking up sougi next week as well as battery lol how much for a 25L barrel of 300V?

damn, ok i'll get right on it. is this a part just bought from nissan? where exactly is it and is it difficult to replace? any hints of price? an oil company isn't going to write a 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13 or 14w. it'd make things too complicated. so maybe sougi was a 7, 8 or 9? maybe the penrite was an 11, 12 or 13? either way, a 10w50 is going to struggle properly lubricating all the small components such as lifters isnt it? its to heavy. will have to start looking into this also. just wondering with IV/V blends, the IV part of it will still go off quickly right? so you'd have to change as often as for a grade IV, it just gives better protection over that time? how much is amsoil? one other thing is that the additives that change the hot/cold viscosities may actually be good for the engine cleaning. sougi and others have good cleansing agents as well as being exemplary oils cheers folks

geez really? im gonna have to look into this o2 sensor stuff...

hey kong, it's no doubt a combination. eg: the new front/dump pipe gives you more power, so your foot isn't as low on the throttle for the same acceleration, which means better fuel economy. to get L/100km. ok, pretend I used 50L to get 400km (which is pretty close to my average) then, i put into the calculator 50/400 *100 (50 divided by 400 times 100). order does not matter. this gives 12.5, ie: 12.5L/100km, not too shabby for a turbo skyline. that formula again: fuel used/kilometres travelled * 100 i too look forward to more info from birds, assuming he can get it and post it. glad to see your improvement's kong, have followed many of your posts so glad it has all worked out. you're going down the same line as me lol, i have a stockish r34 gtt, so looking at putting a whole new exhaust in (front, dump. high flow cat, 4-4.5" tip) its got a 4.5" tip of unknown brand lol. anyways, great result

that's a really good point mate, they can monitor boost pressure and power and give some idea of what's happening. for example, i am not completely sure that my pressure sensor is working properly, and if i'm only putting out like 150-160rwkw its prob running stock boost. wont be able to do that for a couple of weeks tho...

kong, we kind of know the order: Group V: sougi, redline, 300V chrono Group IV-V: penrite sin Group IV: 8100, royal purple Group III: nulon, bla bla bla now, where do Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, Penrite fit in there? the only suitable hot weight for mobil 1 is the 0w40 (which costs $95 for 5L from supercheap) which means two things: one, the cold viscosity is very low which makes some of us a little uncomfortable, and secondly it usually takes more additives to get further difference between hot and cold ratings, which may or may not be a bad thing. castrol edge is the same deal. only 0w40, but it's only $68, pretty close to nulon price. Penrite HPR doesn't have a 40 hot viscosity. the sin only has a 5w40, like motul, and I couldn't find a price for it. it is a mix of synthetic and ester compounds, so in group IV-V. how do we know if an oil is grade 3 or 4? nulon is grade 3 but it says fully synthetic :S EDIT: just googling some stuff came across this article http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html saying that in the late 90s castrol started the use of the word synthetic for non-synthetic oils, ie: as a marketing tool; much like nulon has been caught out doing (among the rest of them). mobil lost a court case against castrol and since then synthetic hasn't meant anything for the consumer.

but any heated gas is going to expand, so more gas means more expansion for the same amount of heat released? the increased oxygen conc would increase detonation tho.

also with more oxygen available the explosion is faster, allowing more expansive force when the cylinder is high in the compression chamber which generates more torque/power why is this? is it to do with timing to reduce detonation or something to do with the chemistry?

agreed. redline is more renowned as an oil for racing from what i've read, and overkill for even fairly modified skylines. who should we email to express our discontent? the emails/letters/calls will probably just go down as statistics, but it might make gw more likely to try a sougi type oil again in a couple of years

i emailed motul and royal purple asking about the price at the distributor and it was MORE than the price of the oils at autobarn/autopro/superheap etc.. disappointing ps: score, ive been the first post on the last 3 pages, lol :$

motul 8100 is group IV, 300V is group V. any updates birds? probably going to pick up a 4 pack next week, have to call for my local distributer

^ +1 tho id imagine birds is either pre-occupied with life outside of these forums or waiting on info from gw. i'll definitely buy several bottles if this is the end of sougi ironically they'll have record sales from now till when it's cancelled did you try 8100? as i said above, it was pretty sweet. it's not as good as sougi is terms of grade and price, but if sougi's out...

i will have to check this out too lol. would this make boost greater at all times or just have a peak before dropping off? there isn't any flow through the actuator right? its just flow to the actuator, so eventually boost would level out to normal? anyways, here are my actuator pics

i think i'd be going royal purple, $80 for 5L, over the 300v. i wouldnt want to buy 4+2L cos it'll save money to buy 2x4L in the end, but thats like $210 in one spending on oil. or motul 8100 for $75. i know you don't like the lighter cold weight of the 5w40 krazykong, but i tried it a few weeks ago and the car loved it! each car's different i know, but in terms of weight there isn't much difference between 5 and 10, and the difference is quicker protection of the engine and turbo by quick oil transport. and they have the same hot temp, which in reality is the important number...

i get about 400 out of my gtt, 350 if really driving hard, over 500 with plenty of highway driving.

yep, checked it out (took a while) and it's just the battery. its getting charged to the full but just losing it really quickly. connected it to the battery at the workshop and it started almost instantly a dozen times... not sure what the nrma guy meant, but it ended up being the easiest fix. thanks for your help guys

haha petition? looking forward to birds' comments

just took the car for a drive, weirdly it is only about 1 in 4 or 5 gear changes that the gear makes a little grind when moving into place, same with the 2nd gear grinding. does that mean anything? lol cheers for that mad, i'll get under and have a look when i can.

that's bs!! damnit, i always did seem too good to be true!

yeah, that would be really useful! i was planning on doing a transmission oil change soon too, not sure if it'll help...

so clutch wouldn't have been changed during the 100k service? the clutch fluid is due for a change then, i'll look for a diy on that...

thanks for that. is there any way of checking those things?

good morning people! yesterday afternoon i noticed a couple of my gears will grind when the clutch is in. particularly 1st and second. so if i'm braking and changing down, as the gearstick goes nicely into second and then the grinding starts, all with the clutch pressed to the floor. its the same if i put the clutch in and put it into second while cruising along. it isn't every time, just most lol. also, when changing gears in normal driving there is often a slight grind when the clutch is below the pick-up point. the gear goes in but the sound is a bit like trying to change gear with the clutch out... just shorter. im guessing the clutch or transmission oil is getting old. i have no idea when the clutch was last replaced as the car has no log books. i was told that the car had had its 100km service and had 125km on the clock now. that said, i don't know what was done in the "100km" service. did a quick search and most problems along the lines of grinding gears seems to be grinding when changing into the gear. thanks in advance

read last 2 pages of the oil sticky, it has literally just been asked