honan

How about a nistune ecu, still be ok yeah?

Near future has a 25/30 conversion coming up Currently has nistune and 3076 turbo which I will keep for a while, just wondering what camshafts are the go with out massive head work I was thinking HKS 256 inlet with 8.8mm lift And HKS 264 exhaust with 9.0mm lift Anyone have this already? How will/does the car idle? Thanks

I modified the high pressure line to run backwards all ready, I'll just keep stuffing around. You have any pcs of your setup Mate?

It's the power steering pulley causing dramas, the harmonic balancer clearance is fine

If not, the msd window switch, or nos rpm switch, vct controller etc is a good option. I had an issue in my r33 where the stock ecu would not control vct properly, after a turbo and fuel upgrade I got a nistune on an rb20det ecu and use a nos rpm switch for the vct, works better than it ever has.

So while changing my rad and hoses and installing a greddy style plenum I noticed my clutch fan is cracked in 15-20 spots at least. I don't want to run the risk of it flying apart and have decided to install thermos. Wiring isnt a problem at all but i was told to use ef/el falcon fans. I have changed the way the high pressure power steering line is run to get that out of the way but the fan motor is way to close to the belts and pulleys for my liking. Wondering if maybe ford mondeo's are a better option or any other tips and tricks to make them fit? Photos if possible would be great. Thanks guys

come across a website for a QLD based company streettotrack? they have turbosmart external gates, ALOT cheaper than anywhere else that i have found and also garrett turbos much cheaper than alot of other companies. just want to know who has used em and are these guys legit? thanks!

hey guys Typical issue, front seats are loose, i had the drivers side out tonight while putting a large toolbox in the back(not that large, but seat wouldnt go far enough forward) I looked underneath while i had the chance and it is almost like top piece of the rail(fixed to seat) is loose in the lower part of the rail(on the RHS rail) Now im guessing it is worn as the play is up and down, but its really starting to piss me off now, is there a way to repair it or a replacement rail? i dont care if the rail is aftermarket, i just want my seats to stop moving so much, especially with the amount of defects handed out over the last week or so. Thanks Matt

had a similair problem with the rears in my 33. one of the bolts snapped clean off, without even using force, just a shitty old bolt i think. I just drilled it out and fit a helicoil in, seat bolts down fine, and was torqued to factory specs, hasnt come loose in over 2 years of doing the repair. when you get yours out, if the thread is damaged, this is one option you could look at, especially if there isnt much metal left to re-thread it.

hi, as the title says my wheels are losing the clear coat, i bought them brand new nearly 2 years ago. drift teks with the silver/grey spokes and polished lip. The clear coat is only coming of on the polished lip but is sticking to spoke, which i assume is painted or powdercoated etc. do i need to re do this clear coat or will the polished lip be ok with out it? will chuck up some pics after work. thanks!

i have 18x10 +18 fit nice, cops havent said a word-regency might but so far its been 22 months.

I had a similair issue with a z32 ecu on mine..ended up going with a r32 ecu and seperate vct controller, the drama was the z32 ecu for some reason just stopped controlling the vct properly.!

all good now, Andrew At AM performance have sorted me out with a similair setup to there 33 cheers!

thats what im saying...what mid muffler would you recommend? i dont mind if its a little above the limit..but this is a bit to loud...queit at highway speeds, just on accel.

the twin pipes are still mufflers, i just want a muffler of some sort in the centre.. i got the twin 4 inch muffler pipes because they fit the standard cutout in the rear bar

Hi guys, i have just had a new catback built today. 3inch stainless with A M Performance 3 inch resonator and 4 inch twin pipes at the rear. the twin pipes are internally baffled, kind of the same way cannon mufflers are. The car still has a 3 inch dump and front on it. The issue is now with this set up is louder than my setup with just a cannon..it sounds 50,000 times better BUT for street its a tad to much. was thinking a 3 inch muffler box that would bring it down a little but not to an overly quiet level or should i replace the gutted cat with a 100cpi metal cat. really need this effin exhaust finished

yeah im not overly happy with it at the moment, although kids in there ufo kitted bright yellow s15's faces are funny when they get the jump at the lights and then destroyed about 2 seconds later. organising a rpm window switch at the moment and then when my car goes down to the paint shop ill take it next door to be touched up again!

whats wrong with gettin a decent tune, spend 8k then give it a puss tune?

a rough road tune, then took it to a track??? well thats one issue get it on a dyno and get it tuned properly...even if its not faster, its safer and may save you $$$ later

had an issue IDENTICAL to this, checked everything you have. turned out to be the rubber o-ring/gasket between the top and bottom half of the intake manifold (between chamber and runners) shit of a job to take off but fixed the issue straight away. may not be your issue but worth a shot.

best thing for it!!

this was the easiest option at the time, and it was only an hour extra labour (which they never charged me for) and there tune compared to the guys that done it is a hell of alot better! but yeah ill be sticking with it. also you can use an auxillary on the e boost to operate the vct? i may be wrong! also wont be an extensive tune, maybe a bit of a play with the existing tune...better to be safe and chuck it on a dyno!

like he said, its personal preference...my preference is to go with it...at the time the amount of bullshit i went through because another tuner is just a f**kin pecker. basically nistuned an ecu with a safe tune so i could get my car home with the new turbo (turbo went 600kms from anywhere and it was stuck at my parents place) went to get it tuned-had password protected it...wouldnt give me the password..wouldnt unlock it, as he wanted to do the tune. the guys at morpowa bent over backwards to get it sorted and to fit ANOTHER nistune board in...at the time the vct wasnt the issue...now its a little annoying. shopping around now for a rpm window switch, will install it and leave it disabled until i can get it on the dyno.

i have spoken to one of the guys that tuned the nistune and he says that in the end it is personal preference and that the rpm switch is one option to look at. he says he doesn't personally use the vct, and that using can either do 2 things..make a big difference in response, or make f**k all difference in response. I think any improvement is better than none and for the price of an rpm window switch and $190 to have the tune touched up that its worth trying out.

yeah i have considered this, i see greddy also do an adjustable gear for the intake side aswell. but the exhaust side should be fine. ill speak to the guy who tuned it sometime today and also organise a bit of time on a dyno also. once the vct is set up ill consider everything else!