Nightcrawler
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Posts posted by Nightcrawler
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You most likely have air in your system - V35 are notoriously hard to get air out of - use the top-most air bleed multiple times with multiple cool down/heat cycles to make sure there is no air in the system. The smallest amount can make your car run hot.
But yes, as Duncan wisely said - we need much more info to diagnose intelligently for you
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Sadly in SA the police won't care about nor recognise any form of mod plate or certification, as you could easily (and likely) have modified the car (in an illegal way) post-mod-certificate anyhow. They send you to the pits if they don't understand the car in any way, shape or form
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As said, if the km are too good to be true (and they are by half), then it might be wound back. Get a reputable odo check company to do a history on the car.
Parts are easy, generally - most parts are available locally, or at worst out of Japan or the USA.
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Nope, the Russians (Xanavi) who did the translation no longer do it, as far as I am aware.
It was not as simple as putting a disk in - the guy in each state who was their agent had to be online with them and put in codes from the GPS etc to unlock the maps and make the translation work.
And no, no-one has gotten the maps to work. Putting an overlay over the screen and running Apple car play is the only (and expensive) option.
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wizlb, let me unequivocally guarantee you that you DON'T have a G35. There is no such thing as a right hand drive G35. G35s were made for the US market. If you have Infiniti badges or grille, or whatever else, they were fitted by someone wanting the Inifiniti badges on it either before or after it was grey market imported to Australia.
You have a Japanese V35 grey import. Nissan hates V35s, as they were all imported here in direct competition with the 350Z they sold locally, and as I stated almost all Nissan dealerships won't touch a V35. If you have found one that will help you, then that is great, but that is not the experience most V35 owners have had over the years.
On a related note, FYI G37s (which in Japan are called V36 Skylines and can only be imported to Aus in manufacturing years up until the end of 2012), however, were complied to Australian standards, have English buttons and everything works, and ARE Infinitis.
FYI I had a V35 for 9 years, and have had my Aus delivered G37 for nearly 4 years.
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On 5/11/2022 at 7:35 PM, wizlb said:
Nissan can determine what problems you are having with your car.
Completely untrue - almost all Nissan dealers don't want anything whatsoever to do with 'grey market' imports. Certainly none in SA do. They won't go near them and won't support you/them at all. If you are very lucky some will order parts for Skylines, but that's about it.
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I assume it is a sedan - in that case then almost all of them are VQ30s in Australia (the 250GTs were too low power to be allowed import into Aus, and the VQ35-equipped 350GT GT-8 is the relatively rare/much-feared CVT model). My advice would be to find a decent auto electrician who actually knows Nissans. FYI ALL V35 coupes are VQ35s.
Go to a Nissan specialist - they will sort you out in no time. And yes, it is most likely Cam sensors (replace BOTH even if only is faulty).
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Are you saying that you did 824.7km on a single tank of fuel?? That would be amazing.
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Here are many pics of the various iterations of bars and wheels for your enjoyment
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FYI you don't need that (or any) bolt to remove the rotors. Yes it might make it a tad easier if they are stuck on, but to be honest once the brake calipers are taken off, the rotors come off with a half decent whack or 2 with a hammer. Often they just come off in your hand with little or no persuasion.
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Glad it worked out (in a way). At least now you/we know about the stud - I thought it was an easy fix.
Yes spacers are a bad idea - MUCH better to get wheels that actually fit and have appropriate brake clearance. Good luck in your search.
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Haha yeah, I don't remember it being a big deal at all - when I fitted new wheels shortly after I bought the car I thought I just unscrewed it and it was gone.
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They do super weird things when the car battery is even the slightest amount flatter than it likes, or is failing/has failed. Try jump starting it with a safe/electrically shielded jumper set, or a plug-in starter/charger pack.
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On 2/10/2022 at 5:10 PM, V35_Paul said:
I was going to say it was your car
Hi Paul, hope life is treating you well mate. Loving your Q60 pics btw - very jealous!
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They won't flex under load - if they fit and you can spin them with the car off the ground, they will be fine. I have had wheels where it seemed like there was only around 0.5mm clearance between the Brembos and the wheels, yet they never rubbed.
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Wow, that's my old car!
I crashed it in Aug 2018 and it was a write-off (I assume stat write-off since it has been repaired and re-registered). I hit the front right hand corner and it damaged the bar, guard, light support (I think it snapped one of the headlight mounts), totalled the oil cooler, and cracked the front carbon fibre support (which was the main reason for the writeoff - insurance said the composite carbon front nose is around $15k brand new out of Japan).
Does it still have the black SAFCII mounted where the ashtray used to be?
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On 2/9/2022 at 3:12 PM, Vee37 said:
ARGGGHHHH! It was a mobile Tyre guy. I did mobile so he would come out to me, instead of me lugging my large wheels and two cars, to my regular wheel guys, and then lugging the 4 spares into my tight garage. From memory, the stud didn't look like it was a nut that could be gripped with pliers or such, and the replacement parts I have seen on-line, *look* like the opposite side is chamfered (ie larger on the inside) so it looked like I would need to take the rotors off to pull out the stud backwards. But, I did not confirm it.
The wheels when on my 350GT are overly inset (PLENTY of space till the guards on the V35. Bugged me the sales people didn't point that out to me before). If I did put them on my V36, would they push out more to fill the guards? or be even further inset? You imply they will stick out more, by how much approximately?
I checked multiple places on-line and the offsets were all over the place and different between web sites (diff between V35 & V36). I was ready to undo (as I now did because of the stud) if the offsets were bad, after a test fit; which is how we found the stud. He span the wheel twice, testing each partial rotation / bolt position.
It was 3 years ago that I took mine off - yes, maybe you have to pull the rotor off and unscrew it from inside the rotor.
If your wheels were bad offset on the V35, chances are they will be much better offset (in terms of filling up the guards) on the V36.
FYI I had 10 +12 offset wheels that sat flush on the back of my V35. With stock height and camber, they sat at least 3cm outside the guards on my V36, so no good. The fronts of 9.5 +20 sat flush on the V35, and poke out maybe 10-15mm on the V36, so they are usable, but really poked a bit much at stock height/camber.
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You will also find that the offset of V36s is annoyingly different to V35s. If you have any sort of decent offset wheels, they will not fit properly on the V36 without serious camber/toe massaging and/or lip rolling.
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The stud just unscrews. Take it out. Everybody does.
Get a new wheel guy if he is so new that he did not know this.
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You need to get higher profile tyres, or if your car is lowered (which it looks like it might be), put it back to standard height. Yes it won't look as low and sleek, but alas, you will be able to drive without being terrified of scraping on everything.
Pro tip for your next bumper bar - source a urethane front bar. You basically have to bring one in from the USA, and it will cost a lot, but they are significantly more flexible and forgiving. I killed 3 aftermarket fibreglass front bars before I learnt this tip, and then got a Nismo style urethane and it was amazing and unkillable. You can literally fold them in half and they spring back to their normal shape.
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Both of those that you posted are for the US market. If you put them as per the pics, your phone would be fully blocked by your steering wheel and inaccessible. If you mounted them inversely on the passenger side, your phone would be too far away from you effectively use as you would have to reach too far.
I have an el-cheapo mount I bought off Aliexpress for a few bucks and it is great.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000155108239.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6c054c4dQulDJf
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3 hours ago, StarBoi said:
Talked to an importer recently he claimed we did get RHD G37’s at one point but only for a limited a time early on and in a small amount. I don’t think this is true but thought I’d put it out there. It’s pretty easy to tell if it’s a mock-up though. I don’t see why you would though, I wouldnt want the Infiniti badges instead doesn’t even make sense
As for OP around 12-14k is a decent buy price for that year with those kms.
Yes, that is the ADM Infiniti G37 (2013)/renamed to Q60 (2014/2015) we have been talking about .... I own one
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How/where did you install the sensor, or is it electronic?
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Iron Chef is the man to use.
2008 Nissan Skyline 370GT Coupe - Should the door unlock when the key fob is close & I try to open the door?
in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti
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On my ADM Infiniti G37 there is a soft button on the door handle (both driver and passenger side), that when pressed with your keys in proximity locks/unlocks the car (press once to unlock just the drivers door, press it twice quickly to unlock the passenger door as well). I assume the JDM V36 Skyline is the same.
Yes, my boot does the same only opening approx. 1mm - you can barely tell it is popped open. And yes, the boot closes hard if you just push it down (like my kids constantly do).