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BOOZTJUNKEY

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Posts posted by BOOZTJUNKEY

  1. Man I got the material thru my work and was under 100 cause boss loves me hahahah I have 1 1/2 meters of straight and 9 bends man honestly it would prob be about 200 roulghly

    If I had to pay ful price probably woulda went mild there is a company on eBay that sell steamy pipe bends u get like 20 for 60 bucks hahahah then get pipe to suit it

    And I have seen them merges on eBay for 90 bucks man they look ok just depends on wall thickness

  2. I'm undergoing the same task ATM blake .

    Although im makeing a Low mount similar to Nissans

    If u look at te factory Nissan there runners aren't even length !

    Also tips I've been given is after its all tacked cut the runners back of and weld the flange it's a lot easier to get a neat weld there

    Weld the colecter first when u make it

    Also when welding the head flange bolt it down to something Iike 100x100x5 should help prevent warping

    I'm makin mine out of 36nb pipe that is 3mm wall 304 stainless

  3. Hey Chris what's been happining any up dates on the manifold?

    I finally have got motivated enough to get some material to do one myself :-)

    The manifold I'm making will be the same low mount design as stock .

    I have found a good way to cut merges on the band saw at work

    I'm using 36 nominal nominal bore pipe who's is the 3mm wall so 42 od

    I'm going with 4 into one collecter ( when u examine the stock mani u will under stand why I went with the 4 instead of 6 into one )

    For my merge I'm going with a 20 degree cut angle as well

    The manifold will be made out of 304 ss and fully perged for maximum strength an reliability

    Ideally I want to sit pretty much in exactly the same spot as factory :-)

    Although There will be a lot of test fitting and trial and error

    I'm hoping all goes well :-) any pointers?

    Also I pulled the head off a facked rb20 I had and was gunna bolt the mani to that when welding hopefully it will suck some the heat and won't distort too much

    All the best

    Bejay

  4. Yeah I rekin it's a highflow as well

    the back of the comp housing isn't the stock for sure Looks like a t4 core maybe a t3 t4 highflow ?

    The inducer on comp housing looks like its bored bigger and had a hone as well to suit bigger comp wheel

    Actuator rod looks different to factory 33 as well

    As for the lines take it to a shop that does braided lines some autobahns do speed flow fittings and could knock something up for ya

  5. As above my car ha burnt another set of glow plugs

    I started her in the middle of the day and rough started (unburnt diesel)

    I don't under stand why it's doing this I have three possible souloutions but after advice from experienced diesel mechanics

    1 . They are over charging and not turning off all the time

    2. Diesel pump is leaning the mixture and killing them( which I suspect because it doesn't really leave any diesel smoke under accel and always thought it may run lean )

    3. There not getting enough power and there being killed from being started before glowing ?

    Any help appreciated

  6. As above I stripped down 2 engines I had hear all parts available minus power steering pump etc and turbos

    Parts are as follows

    Rb20det short motor complete from rockers to sump water pump was pulled of but still have it .

    Unknown ks needs a degrease 150

    Rb20 block complete from pistons to sump bores look cyl 1 looks oily so probably got a cracked oil ring

    X 2 standard cast turbo manifolds 50 each or I can weld on waste gate pipes( what ever size) for an extra 100 so 150 for the modded manifolds and 50 for stock

    X 2 sets of rockers bit dirty could use a paint or clean 70 bucks a set as they sit

    For 200 a set I will clean them and bead blast them silver and weld alloy speed flow fittings on to suit catch can applications

    X 3 factory inlet manis top and bottom halfs one 80 dollars per complete plenum( top and bottom halfs)

    X3 sets of factory injectors one set ea just pulled of my running engine only have 100k on them want 100 for them

    The others two sets can be had for 80 for the both due to unknown condition

    Rb20 set if 6 coils seem to be good condition no burn marks or burnt inner coils should be good except one plug was broken on removal but still usable 100 for the set

    X2 ac compressors unknown cond 40 each

    X2 ac cast alloy mounting brackets to block 30 each

    Timing belt cover rb20 has hks sticker on also hasn't got rb20 stamped on it which I thought was cool 50 take it away

    X2 j pipes ( crossover pipe ) both rb20 but two different styles one maybe cefiro both have factory bov points 50 each

    Drift atmo bov adjustable style silver and black good cond worked when I took it of 70 bucks

    Factory dump pipe good cond 60

    Factory heat shiel 10

    X2 flywheels need machining 50 each

    Set of engine mount brackets rb20 70

    Turbo oil return pipes x3 10 each

    Adjustable cam gear for rb good cond 30

    Hks rear coil overs for r32 gtr or 300 zx SUIT REBUILD 100

    Gtr front coil overs they are factory gtr suit gts or gtr good cond 70

    Gts factory front castor bars ok bushes 40 bucksfor the set

    Factory fuel rails x3 30 bucks each

    Coil pack brackets x2 sets 25 each

    X2 factory 65mm throttle body's 40 each

    There is more but all u can think of for now

  7. Yeah that's what I thought its got 120k on it I got it at 68k and it was bog stock but who knows if the ks are correct I am suspect on all imports in regards to klms they have hahahah

    The engine has been awesome never let me down

    But I figure if I just did the bearings( and rings which was a good idea kiwi rs4t)

    I shouldn't have to worry too much Hopefully

    Any ideas where to go for good prices on oem parts?

    Nissan will charge through the ass ;-)

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