fattox33

how much for passenger side power window assembly (motor and tracks, all bar the glass) and the electrics that you can take off the drivers' side door for the windows? i.e. relay etc.

So since Toowoomba has none that I'm yet to see, and I really want to go in an R35, would any GC owners be up to take me for a spin in one, just to feel what sort of power they produce etc? I don't want to drive it (unless you're offering/cool with it), but would just love to be in one! I'm visiting the GC from tonight till very early Saturday morning, if anyone is able to help me out it would be greatly appreciated! PM on here, or text 0413475969. Will be staying in Jacobs Well

actually, found an aussie shop that sells them cartel-aus.com and yeah i will do

Raysboostin - Try this site, it's a HICAS lock bar with modified rack ends for it as well, try this bad boy out for size : http://www.driftworks.com/shop/driftworks-total-hicas-eliminator-kit-for-nissan.html This is the full kit with poly bushes, and the arms. It says for S13/14 or whatever on the site but it will fit anything with HICAS I'm ordering a set in the next few weeks, full kit comes to around $400 with freight from britain

sloth - just noticed your post after trawling thru for the list of parts, I can't vouch for anyone using Powered by Max but I do hear they're good (i'm buying a few of their shirts, part of my new wardrobe update = tons of obscure JDM brands! ) as for the risers, I have the subframe bushing things the solid ones that slip either side and they make a definite difference, more noticeable if you don't have ridiculously over-stiff springs like mine (they're on the list after paint/panel and some fat Work rims ) but it makes the arse end much more predictable if you're getting it out a bit, that with Hicas lock definitely is a noticeable change

Sold

SOLD.

For sale is a new, unused, HKS STYLE fuel rail upgrade kit. Comes with injector seats for plenum, fuel rail, threaded feeds at each end. Need to be sold ASAP, buyer to pay upfront via direct deposit. Listed elsewhere, so be quick! Price is $100 flat with postage to be calculated. PM if interested! Note - the picture is taken from the Ebay auction, has been shopped to remove the logo. Note it doesn't show the HKS logo like their photo does. Designed to fit 10.5-11mm o-ring injectors.

still up for sale, reasonable offers considered.. for the price of this clutch + rebuild you're getting it for near half price!

i'm thinking i might go provided my tune is done by then, would be good to get it out on the dyno as its' current paint scheme screams sleeper

the photos I took don't really show a difference, i painted mine purely for cosmetics as some idiot had swapped GTS-4 headlights onto it, so when I ordered the new headlight it needed I didn't realise the difference and had one silver one black, but it looks similar to the normal headlights just a matte finish rather than gloss, and a bit lighter i'll have a chop tomorrow when the weather clears up at some better photos

Someone buy the damn clutch!! Need money, open to reasonable offers

So if I wanted to work around scrubbing UCA's, would aftermarket ones solve that problem? The ones available look slightly thinner, I guess I'd just have to work it out

turns out the bushes were actually f**ked, I went to Nissan and they quoted me $75/bushing so i told them to blow it out their arse, drove half an hour out to Pittsworth where a mate who owes me a favour works, had him turn me some up on the lathe from the same material for free, cost me maybe $10 in fuel if that

The mechanic doing it had a lot of work to do to get it engaging, including f**king about with the pedal box and such, eventually we decided to give it a more positive and not an at-the-floor engagement to sleeve the slave, the pedal is barely noticeable, it is lighter than it was with the OS twin under it, and there shouldn't be problems I have a brand new master in it, rebuilt slave when it was sleeved, next fix will be braided lines but still, there's no problem with the pedal travel, it engages maybe 100mm from the floor, before we sleeved it, the problem was with the pedal, it was just engaging at the floor

Just a query, is an R33 GT-R spoiler gonna pretty well bolt straight onto my 33 gtst (s1) boot lid without any modification or is it easier to get it with a 33 gtr boot lid as well?

Really just putting this up for those interested, I had an incident where I required a new headlight, ordered the headlight from the wreckers, and found out that I have 4 door headlights (didn't know the difference till recently, but the 4 door surround is chrome whereas coupes are all black surrounds) Anyway, I decided to respray both surrounds in matte black enamel. Steps to take: 1. Remove the headlights. Usually there is 1 bolt on the guard side at the top, and two nuts to remove inside the car on the inside. These nuts are in a difficult to reach position unless you have hands like a 6 year old, so advisable you don't drop shit while pulling them out. Usually the nuts are pretty loose anyway. 2. Preheat an oven to 100-110 degrees Celsius, fan forced works better. 3. While waiting, pull off all the little clips and metal bits, cos by Jove these things are gonna get hot as f**k to touch if you don't! 4. Once done, do one headlight at a time in the oven. They'll need around 20-30 minutes, I did one for around 25 and it was still a fair job. 5. Dismantle the headlight, I've found running a thin blade around the edge is the quickest way to loosen the Mastic, then using a screwdriver to push the sections apart. They join around the middle of the light, lengthways. Don't be afraid to get a little violent with it, just don't snap chunks off. Nobody sees the majority of your headlight anyway. 6. Once the headlight is apart, all you want is the front section with the surround. There are several small screws, undo these and you're in business. The surround takes a little steady manipulation to get out, but be easy. 7. Mask up the plastic clear section for the parkers. 8. Wash the surround with a degreaser, I used dishwashing liquid and it turned out fine. 9. Sand with 800 grit sandpaper, something smooth enough not to scratch the shit out of the plastic but rough enough to scuff away at it. 10. Wash off again just under warm water, leave to dry. 11. Use plastic primer to prime the surround, if you want, or be a rad kid like me and just shoot colour down over it. 12. Let that dry, and do any other coats. As a precaution, don't touch it with oily hands. Best bet is to hang it by one of the screw holes, or do it on a flat surface. I've just finished doing mine both in Matte Black, I'll upload photos once they're finished and the front is all restored and such, and the lights are ready to go back in the car. Matte black should look damn good anyway, it'll be a slightly better option than a faggoty chrome one (sorry, chrome doesn't belong near skylines IMO) on one side and a glossy black on the other.

370Z Paint Codes - Sourced from a touch-up paint dealer, 2009-current models Solid Red - A54 Chicane Yellow - EAC Magnetic Black - G41 Brilliant Silver - K23 Platinum Graphite - K51 Gun Metallic - KAD 40th Anniversary Graphite - KAV Black Cherry - NAG Pearl White - QAB Monterey Blue - RAE It should be noted that in Nissan Japan, Monterey Blue is known as Le Mans Blue, it's a 3 part paint. And I think my r33 would look off chops with 400R front/side/rear, widened guards and monterey blue

No no no no no!! I may have not worded it right, the standard slave wasn't fully engaging the clutch, it was about to engage at the floor when it was standard bore, so it wasn't actually engaging the clutch. The sleeving down to 11/16 made it heaps easier to use, and as for how heavy it is, well, it's light as compared to what it was when I had the OS Giken twin plate in it... MUCH lighter, this is like almost a standard clutch in comparison

it's all sorted, i got mixed up as the Japs call the slave the operating cylinder, but it's all good, just ended up sleeving the slave down to 11/16 from 3/4 and yeah i was mixed up, not too up to speed on clutch components yet (haven't got that far in replacing/repairing or my degree! only up to engine stuff now!) Oh it is a turbo skyline btw.. And for those interested, the STANDARD bores for Master and Slave are 5/8 inch and 3/4 inch respectively.

bump to the top, it needs to go, awesome deal! Can be rebuilt by NPC/Jim Berry for maximum power, recently discovered these are actually brass button not cerametallic, but still, a twin 5 puck brass button twin plate clutch is definitely all you'll need for those high-speed passes! A rebuild wouldn't set you back much, plenty of meat on the clutch plates, just new floater plates and it'd be awesome! comes with an OS Giken flywheel $500 firm, plus postage. Need to offset costs of the new clutch (which became new clutch, new master and slave, then resleeved old slave, then new valve cover gaskets, and half moon seals + labour)

ok, so if I have the cylinder machined out to a bigger size (not sleeving the slave, it's brand new), is there any internals you're aware of that would replace the internals properly (say, 3/4 inch guts) maybe a patrol or cruiser or something?

and you're right, it just says OPERATING cylinder not master.

*pretends to shoot self in head* f**k! hopefully this new one might just be the ticket, maybe the other one is shagged out or something... i'm supposed to be driving up home for a week in a weeks' time!

Ahhh shit according to RHDJapan the standard is 3/4, cos the Nismo upgraded cylinder is a 13/16 inch.. I called Jim about and he thinks it was 3/4 as well, well shit I bought the cylinder.. so i guess if it doesn't do the job, I have a brand new master for a 33 for sale! haha