fattox33

got a friend chasing the passenger side air vent, i text you but got no reply? 0413475969 with price so i can forward it on

it's a custom one by Jim Berry, but from what I can tell the master cylinder isn't standard, but smaller than standard I just wanted to try confirm whether standard should be a 3/4 inch bore rather than 5/8

Hey all, Just a quickie, got a mate doing my clutch for me (i'm hopeless at fault finding, he's picked up a few issues as he goes), anyway, he was saying I need a bigger master cylinder to run my new clutch. Interesting part is, apparently the one I have in there is 5/8th inch bore, whereas standard is apparently supposed to be 3/4 inch, he was saying he needs 3/4 inch or 11/16 inch to run it properly. Just curious, why would the 33 have a 5/8 inch bore master cylinder when standard is supposed to be 3/4 inch? something to do with pedal stuff? Also can anyone confirm that standard bore is 3/4 inch before i go blow $160 on a brand newy from JJR

HOW MUCH!!? That's ridiculous! I was thinking I'd take the clutch pedal in and just see what fits, maybe an older pulsar or pintara or something one fits them, i imagine they'd be a multi-vehicle part... that's ridiculous! how did you go around it?

here are the photos of the clutch, price firm at $500. OS Giken lightweight flywheel, significantly lighter than a factory flywheel. Cerametallic 5 Puck clutch plates, and one of the float plates Most of the gear together Some of the heat damage, the blue parts are due to crystallisation at high temps, so these are the parts which will need replacing.

Hey all, Chasing a set of R33 GTS-t upper clutch pedal pivot bushes, there is two of them. Does anyone know which ones are usable or the Nissan OEM part numbers for these bits? Really urgent. Cheers

nah S14 series 2, gotta look closely at it I think i've done an S15 one as well, i'm currently working on the r31-35 one but only done the 31 and 35, a few V-series would be nice to do though

what size outta curiosity? I'm ok with paying for freight, i'll have to let you know after this weekend though, might have a big Isuzu turbo from a truck that i can get a hold of lol

Here's a few of mine R33.4 in Bayside Blue S13.4a Sil80 FD3S drift car I also did a C110 Skyline a while ago, and am working on a pic with R31-35 in it, been meaning to do some V-Series as well

Chasing any old turbos not wanted, preferably standard sorta size off anything really, just playing around and building a turbo-based jet engine for a bit of fun with a mate cheaper the better, standard RB20 or 25 turbo, preferably cheap and shitty that won't matter if i f**k it out prefer freebies (will pay for any freight), anyway post what you got

bump, got bills to pay

R35 owners! I need your help to try nut out the possibility of something.. Anyway, anyone with an R35 could you please get the measurements for me of the engine? topmost point to bottom of sump, widest width of the engine itself with all parts on (so if it's widest where the turbos sit, that width) and depth from front to back.. I am able to get a hold of a rebuilt VR38DETT through a rebuilder, it was one of the EU models plagued with soft bearings but has been rectified, considering doing the swap into my R33.. it'd be... interesting to say the least. Anyway it's only an idea at the moment, depends on measurements whether I will start to pursue it or not. Cheers guys

Item: OS Giken twin plate clutch, from an R33, plus lightened flywheel Condition: Used, probably in need of a rebuild. Price: $500 ono, no lowballs Other Details: Had the clutch in the car for nearly 2 years, (would be 2 years in June), done approx. 19,000km, was on a new motor from a wreckers, that motor had done approx. 10,000km since rebuild and new clutch, the clutch itself is worth around $3000 retail, for $500 I will ship the clutch to your door with everything required, as well as the lightened flywheel it came with as well (unsure of brand) The clutch is still in the car at this stage but will be coming out within the week, so I will assess how everything is. The clutch is slipping pretty bad, from what I can gather it's warped plates (the plates between the clutch discs, the metal ones) which are causing it, I had a good long chat with Jim Berry about this sorta stuff and he mentioned that OS Giken twins always fail due to warped floater plates, they are under-engineered and are too thin. Basically, you pay $500 for this clutch, take it to Jim Berry, get it rebuilt for around $1000, and you have a strengthened, twin plate, $3000 clutch. Open to offers but chasing around $500, I have to pay my Dad back for the new clutch in mine ASAP. Call or text 0413475969 anytimes Will put pics up when available.

Hi all, I had a mate of mine SMS me today saying he was going down to test drive an R32 with an RB25 and R33 box swap, then text me 5 minutes later asking what engine speed mine did at 100km/h in 5th gear, I said around what it should be which is the 2500-2600 mark, and his reply was that the R32 was doing 4000!! rpm in 5th @ 100km/h. Now I'm a 3rd year mechanical engineer, and have done the research, and according to what I can work out, if the box is standard ratio, the LSD ratio is something like 6.2:1, which doesn't sound quite right for an R32 diff.... So in all your experiences, what could be causing this? There is a possibility that the wrong series of R33 computer was used, but I can't see how this would cause an issue... from memory the motor is a series 1 r33, as is the box, but the ECU and AFM are from a series 2.. I didn't think this would cause problems, but apparently so.. So if you're lazy, basically why would an R32 with an RB25DET and r33 box be doing 4k rpm in 5th gear @ 100km/h? Speedo verified against a GPS. Cheers

Hey all, just got a mate asking me this, i think i know the answer but if anyone actually knows could you fill me in? Do the redtop/blacktop/silvertop (RWD spec) SR20's use the same engine mount as the E-W mounted FWD bluetop (even though they are mounted differently, they could use the same mount?) I don't believe they would, FWD would need slightly stronger mounts due to forward/backward motion with dynamic physics, but anyway can someone answer this?

have to say i wouldn't have minded a cube, i was in the market for a smaller car a while back but ended up getting too sweet a deal for the 33 cubes are a great little car too, so much room!

Hey guys, Question - Was leaving a mate's place a week or so back, indicated out off the side of the road at his onto the road, took off, indicated into the corner i was turning into, and the indicator went about 2-3 times then stopped working. Hazards fuse got blown in the process, now I have no indicators but the high beams/lights work fine and hazards work again. Done a bit of tracing, tried 3-4 different flasher units to no avail, all the fuses have been checked and seem ok, and the only thing it comes down to is wiring or a blown stalk (but somehow only the up/down aspect for L/R signal indication. Has anyone else had these problems? How did you fix them/what was the problem? Cheers

tbh the Spool kit is something I'd steer clear of, most of the kits I've seen use I-beams but they use H-beams, and there was a fair bit of clearancing at the bottom of the combustion chamber. I did look into those RIPS motors.. and lol i didn't actually say money is no object, the budget is $20k for a running, driveable car (though massive power and driveable on street rarely go in the same sentence tbh) i thought about the RIPS, it revs to 9K, I could get a Nitto stroker kit with an RB30 block for the same rated at 1600hp and 12k rpm max though?

fair enough, not actually sure what brakes he had on R32 because he was able to get like 10mm off them?!

lol my bad, i meant 265's on the fronts i'd be running 295's at the least on 12's from memory, but i gotta clear standard R33 brakes

because i'm not like every arsehole in my arsehole home town and go and throw V8's in anything that moves because "v8's are hectic" i'd prefer something original and more JDM (sorry big purist)

hmmm all valid points, and yeah the whole thing about RB cranks is right, I think that Nitto thing may end up being the way I go with an RB26 head, those stroker kits are nuts with a 12k rpm limiter, and means I can run a retardedly oversized turbo haha and yeah the length is basically why it loses harmonic stability, also any buildup on certain counterweights are going to have a big issue in harmonics as well lots of factors but yeah i heard about those nitto kits the other day and was just YEEEEEEAHHHHHHHHHH

Quick story, I'm ordering a set of Cross Factory rear guards for the 33, they add GT-R width +30mm on top of that, so 60mm total, and wider fronts (around +30mm).. Currently run 18x8.5F 18x9.5 rear, i think honestly I could run another half inch to inch on them no worries on the standard body. Anyway, considering 18x10 front, 18x12 - 13 rear. Have a mate who sells tyres so cheap ones aren't an issue $220 for 265/40/18 Federal 595RS-R (semi's) So, Offsets, what could I fit with standard R33 GTS-T brakes? I know there will be TONS of dish which is what I want I want minimal offset!! So anyone who's good at this stuff, HELP!! Thanks in advance guys!

I think from memory I was looking into CE28N's which are a very similar rim, I couldn't tell you exact offsets from memory the fronts were 18x9.5 (30mm wider guards) +18?? and the rears were 18x11 (+60mm guards) +15 i think... but i still haven't got the guards on so I couldn't tell you exactly but the sounds of it, you shouldn't have a problem with that offset, worst case might have to pump the guards a bit

I have ONH347 in the R33's window, haven't transferred them from my mate's name yet and bought a while ago... not gonna put them on till I at least get the tune done and know what sorta power I'm pulling ON HEAT for all you non-understanding folk