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CEF33Y

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About CEF33Y

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    Rank: RB25DET
  • Birthday 11/08/1981

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  1. Hey guys, feel free to add any info to the thread if you feel its relevant, thats the best part about forums. So, updating, as the box is back in the car, and to give the thread some closure. Much anticipation I started car, and slowly released clutch, aaaand the noise is still there. Bugger. Probably a bit better, but hasn't "fixed" the noise. So ultimately its got to be the gearset. I also put a new syncro in 2nd gear, and the shift into second feels better, so along with the experience of actually rebuilding a box, it wasn't a complete waste of time (pretty close though, haha). Plan from here is to keep driving/drifting with this box until it lets go, then probably buy new. I don't think "low km second hand" boxes exist anymore. And I'm not making the power where I think a gearset is warranted. Thanks for the advice/help guys
  2. Bit late to reply, But yeah, the CBC kit I got came with the sealed bearings, on which I've removed the seals. Just got it back together last night, hope to have it back in the car tomorrow. Pretty happy with the CBC kit, even came with 1st gear bush (which looked average on mine, burred on the edge where it looks like they've used an ill fitting pipe to drive it on). Someone has had this apart before and did a average job putting it back together. The needle bearings on 1st and 2nd gear felt terrible as I was pulling it down, and popped the seal off the (old) bearing in the center plate and there was alot of black deposit, and the oil in there was much darker than the oil drained from the Gbox. Anyway, will see if the gbox noise has gone soon enough!
  3. Well yeah, that's right, there are not many "cheaper" options. Most things across the board have gone up. Just means if I bend it in half I'll cry alot, not a little
  4. Guys I've got a used Velo GPT-2 fixed back for sale. (see Velo site for size chart, GPT-2 is XL) Its just too tight for me. Its in fair condition (one small, 5mm hole in material), missing the bottom cushions, which can be bought from Velo. Structurally its good. Comes with alloy side mounts. Located Bomaderry/Wollongong. $300
  5. You know, while I should be happy about the value of my car going up (way up!) I use mine as a street/drift car, and I've always had a mental limit of $10k for cars I take on the track (incase I bend it). I kinda have second thoughts thrashing the ring out of it now! Oh and to the OP, like others have said, double the purchase price of the car, that's what the true cost will be.
  6. Hey guys, so in the middle of pulling apart my R33 gearbox. It was noisy in first and second gear, third and forth noise pretty much goes away. I’m up to pulling speedo drive sleeve off, but have to modify my puller set to fit, so it’s not fully pulled down yet. The question I have for now, the input shaft bearing and the bigger bearing in the centre plate are rubber sealed bearings. Now, from all the googling I’ve done, I’ve not come across any pics of sealed bearings. I would have thought the bearings need to be open to ensure adequate lubrication. I mean, the factory Nissan bearing is open... The input bearing feels ok by hand, keen to see what the one in the center plate feels like. Any gearbox guru’s have any thoughts on the use of sealed bearings? cheers
  7. We use a similar flexible heatshield product at work. As you are trying to keep the heat in the manifolds, shouldn't the shiny side be facing the manifold?
  8. Bingo. Bled it one more time, on ground this time. Then I drove it to work (50mins drive), then went to a mates place after work, (25 min drive through traffic), got to his place, opened bonnet, felt hose top hose which felt like it had some pressure, opened rad cap (carefully!) and sprayed coolant out. I'm guessing it just took another bleed/couple of drives to get all of the air out. Tested it while hot and it holds pressure. Thanks for the reply's guys
  9. Do have a mate with a cooling system pressure tester, might be worth a test.
  10. Guys, Basically, at what sort of water temperature would you expect to see pressure in the cooling system? I've got a nismo thermostat, stock, but 5 y/o radiator, stock clutch fan and rad shroud. Remote oil cooler (keeping factory oil cooler/warmer under oil filter). Ambient temperature of 22-25 and I see water temps of 71-75 and oil temp the same, I can open the rad cap at these temps and there is no pressure. Coolant level still at top of rad. Recently changed water pump, and 0.9bar radiator cap and bled it correctly (car jacked up, heater on, bleed screw open, cut down bottle in top of rad, etc etc), took it for a drive up cambewarra mountain (basically a steepish, 6km hill) giving it a hard time, with air con on, and ambient temp of 42 (last weekend!) and it only just nudged 92 degrees at the top. By the time I'd got back home, it was at 75 deg, overflow bottle level went from half to 3/4. Opened cap and zero pressure. Oil temps seem to mirror what the water temp is doing Its also a drift car, and normally takes 5-7 passes before it hits 95ish, usually sitting in staging lane, it will fall to mid 80's within a few minutes. From memory car has been like this for a long time, but as its never overheated and uses no coolant, runs perfectly fine, no oil/water mix in either oil or coolant side. I haven't though too much of it, but having just done the water pump I was paying a bit more attention to it, and thought its strange. Even at 70 degrees, I would have expected a bit of a pssht when opening the cap? Thoughts?
  11. Enjoying this thread, especially all the gearbag tip and pics! I've got a noisy RB25 box, (whine in 1st and 2nd, when on/off power) planning to pull it down, hoping its just bearings. Threads like this are what make forums great. Keep up the great work
  12. Have you checked the switch on the brake pedal re. your cruise control issues? mine was out of adjustment, allowing the cruise to turn on, but not actually activate, i.e, hold a speed
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