d3vic3

either way. sounds like we both had the same problem even if its caused by different things... ill report back if my problem comes back.

So i did some thinking and some more reading. Danny mentioned about knock sensors reacting to false knock or outside noises they confuse with knock. i had a look around the engine bay and noticed the intercooler pipe was touching the cam cover. i figured it may be vibrating against the engine and messing with the sensors. I cut out a piece of rubber and put it there and went for a short drive. no more symptoms. solid idle and no hesitation or R&R ill do some more driving before celebrating tho....

if you just unplug the offending knock sensor, will it run ok? or do you need to fool the ECU into thinking its active. cause if the ECu is just going to throw a code cause the sensor is not responding, i can live with that. i have a consult cable and all that. is there a program that will show if knock is being detected and hopefully narrow it down to this???

Sorry to dig up a thread, but ive been searching for months for someone with similar symptoms and found nothing as close as this. My rb20det is doing the same thing. on partial throttle(off boost) it will splutter and go rich and retard until i put my foot down and get into boost. sometimes idle will just drop off and sound like its miss firing then the ACC opens up and restores the idle somtimes. But some times i have no symptoms at all. the problem is much less while the car is coming up to temp. once its hits the warm point about (69deg) the issues begin. also after an ecu reset it will be good for a few days and then gradually go back to this. i have another CAS i can try but im not 100% sure its good. but ill see any way. if not, im next to swap out TPS and MAF..... I get no ECU error codes. I have replaced/cleaned or checked the following: coilpacks replaced fuel pump replaced fuel filter replaced plugs replaced AFm cleaned AAC cleaned split vacuum lines replaced IACV removed cleaned and added an earth point replaced O2 sensor x2. replaced batter replaced battery Checked TPS voltage AFM voltage seems good. reset TPS checked for boost and vacuum leaks reset timing - but dont remember taking notice of it jumping around - will recheck that. was previosuly unsure of 'normal behavior' from the timing..... had compression test a while ago and one cyl was down a little but still fine. If some one has solved this prob i would be so very happy.

is this a hub ring or is it standard. i have advanti mags on there at the moment.....

is it meant to be that snug, and i just need to tighten up the bolts a bunch to get it on.?

Hello all, I have some r33 stock rims to go on my r32 gts-t, but the hub center is too big for the rims.... i cant sit the wheel flush on the hub by hand. I didnt want to tighten it up just to see if it would pop on over the center ring. do i have to get the centers machined out to fit the hubs? i really didnt think id have to modify anything to get them on....

Final Result: New alternator in. Have not had the starting issue (yet) (crosses fingers). Car runs much better. better in low rpm. better throttle response and generally sharper all though the rev range. and no ecu errors after a couple of short drives and a few starts.

should probably ask?...... do rb25 alternators fit the rb20?

ive just had a look for a 2nd hand alternator. not many around for the rb20. (maybe is, ive looked for only about 10mins.) but there are some that report getting them rebuilt is worth while.? is this cost effective? and what kind of shop would do this?

thanks for your help mad. once i get the new alternator i will report my findings.

Alright.... ive narrowed it down a little and i have a theory. my starting issues and code 11 error started a while back. it was quite sporadic, but eventually got worse and worse. that was when i finally got hold of new CAS, changed they battery, did a service and all was well again. (I changed the battery because it was old and was not taking a charge.) all this had fixed my issues and the car was running perfectly, i did not really take much though as to what cured my problem.... but then about 3 weeks ago the code 11 cropped up again and i started having starting issues again. but this time i have also noticed that when i applied the brakes the hi-cas light would flash on for a moment, i thought that was odd. and then i also noticed that when i turned the head lights on the hi-cas light would flick on then too. and now the same situations would see my stereo turn off and on for a moment as well, like it was loosing power as soon as i turn the lights on or the brakes lights came on..... so i got out the multimeter and had ecutalk running and noticed that it was reporting max 12v at idle and at idle with all the lights on including hi-beams, it would drop under 10v and the car would almost want to stall. my guess is my alternator is on the way out and is just not supplying the charge the car needs and has also been struggling to charge the battery which is why everything was good when the new battery went in, then over time less charge would go into the battery which is why the issues seemed to get worse over time. also cause if the CAS is not getting the power it needs (the starter is drawing all the power the battery has left) it wont send the right signal and keep the car from starting and also throw the error code. i can test my theory by getting my hands on a fresh battery and trying to start it with that. Let me know if this sound like im on the right track. It makes sense to me, but i may be missing something.

ok. ill take some notes and see where i end up.

I reset the ECU everytime i swapped the sensor out. ill do more driving and see if it improves. Error: I was leaning towards grounding issues since it only pops up after the large power draw from starting . i have recently changed the battery so i can rule that out. and i have checked all the wiring between cas and ecu for continuity. I have already cleaned up the neg connection at the body closest the battery, now i have to do the connections on the block and starter etc. see if that helps. is it possible that the CAS error is casuing the ECU to pull the timing further encriching the mixture.? its does feel sluggish occasionally.... maybe im reading too much into it. Ive found grounding kits on ebay, are they worth it?. are they anything other than pre lengthened wires with terminals? I can make my own if thats all they are.

thanks mad water temp behaviour is normal. i have put the old sensor back in (wired correctly) and just got back from a 30min run . seems better. recorded fuel usage was around 13 litres per 100km. seems odd that the old one wired wrong was not so bad on the fuel. but now an old issue has come back. its throwing code 11. CAS or CAS circuit error. i have only just replaced the CAS and thought i had that sorted. it throws the code after it wont start. i hear a click when i turn the key and all electronics dim but the starter wont turn. after about 3 or 4 key turns it fires right up and then this code 11 will be generated. this is the only time it misbehaves. it could go weeks in-between faults or it could happen ever time i try start the car. sorry for the change in topic.