Les00x

Sloane, I'll give you $60 posted for the centre console surround. But tell me 1st, what do you mean by a cut in the ashtray? Les . . .

Two RB26DETT R32 GTR Skyline MAF Air Flow Meter Part# 22680 05U00. Perfect condition and both tested for signal voltage range under acceleration. $450 each for both or $250 each, Melbourne pickup or post anywhere. Les 03 - 9885 8677.

RB26DETT R32 GTR Skyline Air Flow Meter Part# 22680 05U00 Two AFM's - tested, working perfectly - refer photo. $250 each, two for $450. Melbourne pickup or post anywhere. Les - 03 9885 8677

RB26DETT R32 GTR Skyline AFM MAF Air Flow Meter Part# 22680 05U00 Tested, working perfectly. Melbourne pickup or post anywhere. A$275. Les . . .

Angus, Still have the Gtr Dash stereo/gear Surround for $50? Also, rear seat Ashtray? Regards ... Les ____________

Hi Guys, Air Flow Meter for R32 GTR, in perfect working order. Refer pix - tested. A$275. Will post anywhere or Melbourne pickup. Les . . . 03 - 9885 8677.

Rear ashtray - do you have one? Les . . .

Hi Guys, Air Flow Meter Part# 22680 05U00, off an R32 GTR. Works perfectly, refer picture of testing the unit. Melbourne pickup or post anywhere . A$275. Les . . . 03 - 9885 8677

RB26DETT R32 GTR Skyline stock J70 AFM MAF Air Flow Meter Nissan Part# 22680 05U00 Perfect working order - tested - refer photo. A$275. Melbourne pickup or will post anywhere . Les . . . 03 - 9885 8677

Hi Guys, Want to buy - R32 GTR (Prefer Late Model) - Cash Buyer. Melbourne only so can inspect. Original condition or modified is fine, BUT if modified, no incomplete projects with wires hanging loose, bits & pieces missing or not working. Must come with RWC and everything must work - ie: no oil leaks, no water leaks, no rust, no accident damage. Will consider R32's with rebuilt engines or with R33 GTR engines. E-Mail description, photos -> [email protected] Thanks guys ... Les 03-9885 8677

Hi Guys, Want to buy - R32 GTR (Prefer Late Model) - Cash Buyer. Melbourne only so can inspect. Original condition or modified is fine, BUT if modified, no incomplete projects with wires hanging loose, bits & pieces missing or not working. Must come with RWC and everything must work - ie: no oil leaks, no water leaks, no rust, no accident damage. Will consider R32's with rebuilt engines or with R33 GTR engines. E-Mail description, photos -> [email protected] Thanks guys ... Les 03-9885 8677

- Les Lothringer's Approach to Installing Grease Points in Skyline R32 Upper Front Control Arms with Nolathane Bushes. May be applicable to other Skyline models. - Cost: Incidental, if you have the correct tools - described below. - Duration: 1 - 1.5 hours one person each Front Upper Control Arm. - Difficulty Level: Easy for experienced fitters & turners / machinists. For amateur motor repairers, carefully following the procedure can lead to an excellent result. I do not describe how to remove Nissan factory installed Bushes or remove / install the Front Upper Control Arms. - Procedure described by some Nolathane Bush suppliers is inadequate and cannot lead to a satisfactory installation without additional knowledge, skills and equipment - described below. - Disclaimer: This describes my approach. If you choose to follow it and make a mistake following this approach, remember - at all times, it's your fault. If you choose to follow it and get a different outcome, that's because you need to know more than what is described here. No responsibility for errors or omissions. Every car can be different. As machine tools are used, you need to understand safe tool usage. As rotating cutting tools are very sharp, personal injury can occur. End Mill Piece is more aggressive than a standard drill bit and is not self-centering. Unlike a drill bit, it is not self-centering. Alternatively, if you lack capability, have a qualified technician do it . - Parts: 4 x Grease Nipples UNF 1/4 inch 28 tpi straight [not self tapping], both 45 degree angle and straight, thread Major Diameter D = 6.2 - 6.25 mm non-tapered. Washers. Note: Grease Nipple Thread D can vary across brands. Check in store before buying [use Vernier]. A smaller D means a worse fit or none at all or failure / leakage in service. - Special Tools: End Milling Piece, say, End Mill 8mm 4 flutes, Drill Bit 13/64", Countersink Drill Bit, Thread Tap Starter UNF 1/4" 28 tpi straight 4 flutes tapered tip. Note: Intermediate Thread Tap is not needed. [photo #2]. - Other Tools: Quality Bench Vertical Drill [or Milling Machine], Hammer, Centre Punch, Vernier, Milling Vise, Machine Oil, Spanner. - What Can Go Wrong: Many things. Some Grease Nipple thread D's vary. Under diameter D threads may loosen in service or not hold grease. Grease Nipples on each Control Arm end must be located to avoid impact with other moving suspension members that pivot off each end of the Control Arms. Grease Points must be prepared before Nolathane Bushes are installed. Metal shavings must be removed. If you try to tap the thread by hand, it is unlikely to be straight [photo #1]. Incorrectly jacked car can collapse, causing significant injury. - Engineering Mathematics: For those who really want to know - - - - Reference: Industrial Machinery Handbook. UNF Major Diameter D = 1/4" 28 tpi. Minor Diameter D1 = 0.2113" and recommends a #3 Drill = 0.2130" but #3 drills may not be available. Toolshops may recommended a 5.5mm drill = 0.2165" or a 7/32" drill = 0.2188" and both lead to a tapped thread that is none too tight. A 5.0mm drill is too small and cannot be tapped easily, even though one bush supplier recommends a 5.0 mm drill. A 13/64" drill being 0.2031" and < D1 also appears too small but does work well and gives a tighter tapped thread result. _____________________ Procedure 1. Remove Upper Control Arms From Car, Remove Nissan Bushes a. Hoist car, secure properly - not described. b. Remove front wheels - not described. c. Remove Upper Control Arms - not described. d. Remove original Nissan Bushes - not described. ____________________ 2. Locate Grease Points - Mill a Shallow Flat Spot Note 1: Must be located where Grease Nipples not impacted by suspension components. Refer pictures. Points on Control Arms are not flat and should have shallow flat spots machined into which Grease Points are drilled. End Mill tool does this. Note 2: For Skyline R32's, Control Arm inner end has Grease Point installed underneath, outer end on top [photos #9]. a. Mount Control Arm in Vise and angle so that drilled surface is horizontal under Drill Press [photo #3]. b. Mount End Mill Tool in Drill Press. Set medium / high speed. c. Position to cut shallow flat spot next the welding seam at each end of Control Arm. d. Oil tool and work piece. Slowly lower Drill Head to cut very shallow Flat Spot [photo #4]. ____________________ 3. Drill, Tap a Straight Thread a. Indent flat spot of Control Arm with Centre Punch and Hammer [photo #4a]. b. Place 13/64" Drill Piece in Vertical Drill. Position work piece [photo #4a]. c. Oil work piece and centre the indent directly under Drill [photo #4a]. d. Set Vertical Drill speed to slow. Wind down Vertical Drill and drill slowly. Observe chip size of swarf - if too large, reduce downward pressure. Keep drill piece oiled. Drilled hole should be very smooth. If rough, reduce downward pressure. e. Place Countersink drill piece in Vertical Drill. Oil the work piece and centre the hole directly under Countersink [photo #5]. f. Slightly chamfer / bevel edge of hole. This step is important even though some tapping procedures ignore it. g. Place tapered Thread Tap in Vertical Drill. Position the work piece. Oil the Tap. Disconnect Vertical Drill from electric power [photo #6]. h. With one hand on the Vertical Press Handle and the other hand on the Chuck, simultaneously wind down the Drill Press [light pressure] while turning the Chuck clockwise, driving Thread Tap into bevelled hole. With the correct balance of forces, the Tap will be drawn into the hole [photo #6]. i. With each 1-2 clockwise turns of Thread Cutter, reverse 1/4 - 1/2 a turn to break chips. Repeat until the widest part of the Thread Tap has cut through the work piece. Oil as needed. j. Reverse out Thread Cutter. k. Inspect the Thread Cutter for broken cutting edges. Replace if broken [photo #10]. ____________________ 4. Install Grease Points in Control Arms a. Clean up and install Grease Nipple [photos #7, #8, #9]. b. Use washers as necessary to have angled Grease Points facing the right direction.

Sami, Rotors - new or used? Nissan or some other brand, if so which? Les . . . ________________

Sami, Coil Pack Cover - Parts guys sell them cheap, but why throw money at them? Take $15 for pickup? Les ... 9885 8677

Sami, Are they new and just rusty or used? If used, how thick? Also, what make - Nissan or other and if other who? Les ... 9885 8677

Sami, Brake rotors - are they new and just rusty or used? Les . . . 9885 8677

Hi Guys, - R32 GTSt Front Upper Control Arms. - 1.5 diff for R32 GTSt. Les 9885 8677 - Melbourne.

Hi guys, R32 GTSt Front Upper Control Arms - Melbourne. Let me know ... Les 9885 8677

Skyline RB25DE Camshaft Cover Gasket Replacement - Les Lothringer's Approach to Replacing Skyline RB25DE Camshaft Cover Gaskets. May be applicable to other Skyline engines. Similar procedure to servicing Coil Packs / Spark Plugs but stop at Step 15. Photos at end. - Cost: $100 vs. retail motor workshop charge of ~ $400. Costs are 2010 A$'s Melbourne prices. - Duration: 4 hours one person. - Difficulty Level: Easy once you know how, unless something goes wrong. - Disclaimer: This describes my approach. If you choose to follow it and make a mistake, remember - at all times, it's your fault. If you choose to follow it and get a different outcome, that's because you need to know more than what is described here. No responsibility for errors or omissions. Every car can be different. Torque settings as per Nissan WSM's. - Reference: Nissan R32 GTR Workshop Manual. [Note: R34 online English WSM does not cover this. If anyone knows of a better R34 WSM source, do let me know]. - WSM Differences: Camshaft Cover Gasket service is similar. Access and removal of the induction gear is different. - Special Tools: None needed. - Other Tools: Engine Shroud Hex Screws - 10 mm socket, Hose Clips - Large and Small Pliers, Hose Clamps - Screwdriver, Intake Manifold Collector Bolts - 12 mm 1/4" drive, Camshaft Cover Bolts - 10 mm socket 1/4" drive. Other sockets as necessary. Magnetic Rod to retrieve dropped metal parts. - Parts: Gaskets Set - 2 gaskets and 2 plugs, around $90, automotive Silicone Sealer, $10. Gasket from AA Gaskets, Melbourne. Nissan also supply. Several suppliers on the Internet but it would be necessary to verify their source, to confirm gasket material quality. - What Can Go Wrong: Camshaft Cover Gas Recirculation Hose [blowby Hose] front of engine becomes brittle and breaks. Requires Nissan Part #11826-AA511 A$27 and forms part of circuit to vent combustion blowby gases back to the Intake Collector. Standard hose cannot be used. PCV Insulator also deteriorated. Nissan Part # 11812-41B00 A$19. Otherwise hard to go wrong. One may forget to reconnect vacuum hoses / wiring [engine will idle roughly or not start]. Over-tensioning bolts can cause bolts / thread seats to undergo plastic deformation. Approach: _____________________ A. Set Up 1. Lift bonnet and secure. 2. Remove top of engine Plastic Shroud [10 mm socket]. 3. Remove Shock Tower Brace [14 mm socket]. _____________________ B. Access to Camshaft Covers - Remove Induction Equipment and Other Fittings [refer photos] Sequence to Remove Collector Unit 1. Remove Camshaft Cover Gas Recirculation Hose front of engine. Note: Can become brittle and break.Also disconnect Hose to Air Intake Duct [not necessary if only servicing Coil Packs / Spark Plugs]. 2. Disconnect two Water Hoses. 2a. Disconnect Hose - opposite side out of view in main photo. 3. Disconnect two Plugs. 4. Loosen Band Clamp to Air Duct. 5. Remove bolt and slide Air Duct towards the left fender. 6. Disconnect Hose. 7. Disconnect the two Hoses - hose with clamp is closest to firewall. 8. Disconnect Hose. 9. Lift plastic clamp off metal retainer. 10. Disconnect two Plugs. Note: One is opposite side, out of view. Disconnect two Hoses, opposite side [out of view]. 11. Lift plastic clamp off metal retainer. 12. Disconnect Vapour Recirculation Tube from Collector. 13a. Disconnect Accelerator Cable from Throttle Body. 13b. Remove six Collector to Intake Manifold Bolts. Note: Two are under the Collector. Use a 12 mm 1/4" drive socket [see photo]. Take care not to break plastic hose connectors when removing / installing bolt closest to firewall. Remove Collector Unit from Engine. Note: Collector to Intake Manifold has a Metallized Gasket that should come away cleanly and is re-usable. If damaged, gaskets available from Nissan as GSKT-Collector Part # 14033-5L300 ex-Japan [available as at 2010]. Sequence to Remove Coil Pack Coverplate [Ornament as Nissan call it] 14. Remove the four bolts from the Mounting Bracket and lift away from Ornament. 15. Remove the eight bolts from the Ornament. Remove Ornament from engine. Sequence to Remove Air Duct and three Retaining Brackets 16. Remove Hose 16a, Loosen Clamp 16b, Remove Flange Bolt 16c - out of view, rear of Duct. Remove Duct from Engine. 17. Remove bolts from the three Brackets left side of engine and bolts on front bracket top of engine. ______________________ Remove Camshaft Covers 18. Remove ten Camshaft Cover Bolts - left side. Remove left Camshaft Cover. 19. Right side the same but first: 20. Remove support bracket right front side of Camshaft Cover - two bolts. 21. Lift up three Coil Pack Cable Retainers using flathead screwdriver - next to Coil Packs. _____________________ C. Prepare Surfaces and Install Gaskets Note 1: Kit includes two gaskets [non-identical, a left and a right], also two Rubber Plugs, installed at the rear of the engine [see Nissan schematic]. Note 2: Nissan specify using Three Bond 1211 Sealer. A near equivalent is Dow Silicon Engine Gasket Sealer, rated to 220 C. 1. Examine both the Camshaft Covers and Cylinder Head surfaces and remove any material adhering but without scratching the alloy surfaces. Clean the surfaces of the Head and Camshaft Covers. Clean Camshaft Cover Screws. 2. Apply Silicon Sealer to Rubber Plugs and install. 3. Use Silicon Sealer and apply a thin film to the rubber Plugs. 3. Lay the Gasket squarely in the Rocker Cover and apply a thin film to the Gasket. 4. Place the Plug in to the cavity at the rear of the Cylinder Head [see Nissan schematic]. _____________________ D. Install Camshaft Covers 1. Install Camshaft Cover Bolts. 2. Torque Camshaft Cover Bolts, working from the middle towards both ends. _____________________ E. Re-Install Induction Equipment 1. Installation is the reverse of removal. 2. After installation, start engine and check for oil leaks. 3. Re-install Engine Shroud. Note 1: If engine does not start or does not idle smoothly or accelerate correctly, check for unconnected vacuum hoses, unconnected electrical plugs. Note 2: Some suggest not installing the Coil Pack Cover Plate so that the Ignition Coils run cooler and last longer. _____________________ F. Check for Oil Leaks 1. Start engine, inspect for oil leaks. _____________________ G. Torque Settings ft-lb average [from WSM]. - Intake Manifold Collector Bolts = 20, Camshaft Cover Bolts = 4, Mounting Bracket top of Coil Pack Cover = 4, Coil Pack Cover Hex Socket Bolts = 2, Shock Tower Nuts = 70. _____________________

Les Lothringer's Approach to Replacing Skyline Front CV Joint Drive Shafts. May be applicable to other Skyline models. - Cost: $198 vs. retail motor workshop charge of > $880 - check costs below. Costs are 2010 A$'s Melbourne prices. - Duration: 5 - 6 hours one person plus time for wholesale workshop to renovate Drive Shafts. - Difficulty Level: Easy for experienced motor repairers, unless something goes wrong. Check below for what can go wrong. - Disclaimer: This describes my approach. If you choose to follow it and screw it up following this approach, remember - at all times, it's your fault. If you choose to follow it and get a different outcome, that's because you need to know more than what is described here. No responsibility for errors or ommissions. Every car can be different. Torque settings as per Nissan R32 GTR WSM. - Reference: Nissan R32 GTR Workshop Manual. [Note: R34 online English WSM does not cover Suspension. If anyone knows of a better R34 WSM source, do let me know]. - WSM Differences: WSM says to remove Brake Callipers. Also suggests removing Differential Cover to pry out right CV Joint Axle. I did neither. - Special Tools: 36 mm Front Wheel Drive Axle Nut Socket 1/2" Drive [3/4" drive truck tool unnecessary], Wheel Hub Locking Bar. WSM specifies special Nissan tool Flange Wrench page CH-210. Local Nissan dealership has never seen one. I made my own - check below. - Other Tools: Pitman Arm Puller, Copper / Brass Head Soft Hammer, Hydraulic Trolley Jack, Bottle Jack, Thin Nose Pliers, Screwdriver, Torque Wrench, 1/2 " Wrenches, 1/2" Extension Drives, 12 mm Washers. 1/2" Sockets: Wheel Nuts - 21 mm, Stabilizer Bar to Wheel Hub Flange Nut - 14 mm, Lower Control Arm Ball Joint - 22 mm, Caster Rod to Lower Control Arm - 17 mm, Steering Link Ball Joint - 19 mm. 1/4" Socket: Inboard CV Joint Flange Bolts - 12 mm plus 1/4" Extension Drives 3" and 6". - Parts: 3 x 2 Split Pins for wheel hub, lower suspension arm ball joint and steering rod ball joints. - What Can Go Wrong: Many things. High powered / over powered engines can twist splines on outboard axles, so jamming in wheel hub. May require complete removal of wheel hub and upper suspension arm to then mount in a press. Re-fitting the Caster Rods into the Lower Control Arms was more difficult than on an R32. Over-tensioning bolts can cause them to shear off. - Which Side First? Start with left side - slightly easier. Some right side inboard Axle Flange Bolts have no clearance to insert 1/2" 12 mm socket, so use 1/4" 12 mm socket and 1/4" socket Extension Drives. I used two - 3" and 6" lengths. Approach: _____________________ 1. Making a Wheel Hub Locking Bar Note: Jamming a long extension drive between the studs to lock the wheel hub may damage the studs. - I used an old heavy Tyre Lever but steel plate should do, say 45 cm long x 5 cm wide x 8 mm thick. - Tools: Vertical Drill Press, Bench Grinder, Hole Punch, Hammer, 12 mm drill, Dividers, Tracing Paper. a. Use Punch to indent lever near one end. b. Use Dividers to exactly mark off 67 mm [distance between stud centrelines] . Use Punch to indent lever again. This will fit over two adjacent wheel hub studs. c. Use Tracing Paper and draw two concentric circles, r = 33 mm, r = 57.5 mm. d. On outer circle, mark two points at chord length 67 mm apart. e. Overlay on Tyre Lever, line up the two points marked with the two indents. Mark area below 33 mm circle. f. Drill two 12 mm holes at indents. g. Use Bench Grinder to remove marked area and contour to shape of Flange on Disc on Wheel Hub. h. Fit onto Wheel Hub to ensure proper fit. _____________________ 2. Set Up a. Jack front of car, secure at four rigid points with axle stands, timber blocks. b. Remove front wheels - 21 mm socket. c. Remove under engine shroud - 9 bolts 10 mm socket and 3 plastic plugs. _____________________ 3. Remove Left CV Joint Axle. a. Place Wheel Hub Locking Bar over studs, use wheel nuts and washers to clamp flush with Hub. b. Remove Split Pin and Adjusting Cap from Lock Nut. c. Attach the 36 mm socket and support with Bottle Jack. Support the Locking Bar [refer pictures]. d. Attach rigid lever, release Lock Nut and remove. e. Remove the 3 x 2 inboard CV Joint Flange Bolts and Nuts - 12 mm socket. 1/4" or 1/2" drive will fit. Rotate axle to access. f. Remove Split Pins and Nuts from Lower Ball Joint - 22 mm, Steering Link - 19 mm and Nuts from Caster Rod - 17 mm. g. Use Pitman Arm Puller to separate Lower Control Arm from Ball Joint. h. Because Disc Calliper has not been removed, the Puller cannot be used to separate the Steering Link [obstructed by ABS Sensor] . So, replace the castellated nut upside down and screw down to protect the thread. Use a 1/2 inch extension drive and soft hammer to separate the joint. i. Remove nut from Stabilizer Bar Link to Hub Flange - 14 mm socket and spanner. j. Swing Hub outwards and allow Outboard CV Joint Axle to slip back out of Wheel Hub. There should be no resistance here. If it is jammed, you have problem. k. Lift axle out and remove. Note: Left side CV Joint Axle does not insert into Differential. Right side CV Joint Axle does _____________________ 4. Remove Right CV Joint Axle. a. - d. As above. e. Use 1/4" 3" and 6" Extension Drives and work around the Lock Ring. A 1/2" socket and extension drive can be used on a couple but not all. f. - j. As above. k. Pull Axle outwards to extract from Differential. WSM suggests removing Differential Cover Plate to lever out Axle - not necessary. Just pull firmly. l. Lift axle out and remove. Note: Place a pan under the Differential opening to catch the small amount of oil that will spill out. _____________________ 5. Take Axles to Workshop for Renovation. Costs. a. Wholesale workshops charge $99 / axle [trade price] = $198. Some will charge $220 / axle = $440, same as retail garage if you are not an account customer. b. Retail garages typically quote $220 per axle to remove / replace and double up the axle renovation cost. Total cost = $880. _____________________ 6. Refit CV Joint Axles, Wheels. - Installation is opposite sequence to removal. Fit new Split Pins to Hub Nut, Lower Ball Joint, Steering Link Ball Joint. - Fitting the Caster Rods was slow, maybe due to Nolathane Bushes in Caster Rod [less flex]. I used a jack and long levers to move the suspension around until the Lower Control Arm lined up with the Caster Rod bolts. _____________________ 7. Torque Settings ft-lb average [from WSM]. - Flange Bolts = 24 [no chance of using a Torque Wrench, so one goes easy], Axle Nut = 200, Caster Rod Nuts = 87, Lower Ball Joint = 80, Steering Link Ball Joint = 25, Stabilizer Bar Link = 32, Wheel Nuts = 80. _____________________

Les Lothringer's Approach to Replacing R34 4WD 1999 Skyline Front CV Joint Drive Shafts. May be applicable to other Skyline models. - Cost: $198 vs. retail motor workshop charge of > $880 [check costs below]. Costs are 2010 A$'s Melbourne prices. - Duration: 5 - 6 hours one person plus time for wholesale workshop to renovate CV Joint Drive Shafts. - Difficulty Level: Easy for experienced motor repairers, unless something goes wrong. Check below for what can go wrong. - Disclaimer: This describes my approach. If you choose to follow it and screw it up following this approach, remember - at all times, it's your fault. If you choose to follow it and get a different outcome, that's because you need to know more than what is described here. No responsibility for errors or ommissions. Every car can be different. Torque settings as per Nissan R32 GTR WSM. - Reference: Nissan R32 GTR Workshop Manual. [Note: R34 online English WSM does not cover Suspension. If anyone knows of a better R34 WSM source, do let me know]. - WSM Differences: WSM says to remove Brake Callipers. Also suggests removing Differential Cover to pry out right CV Joint Axle. I did neither. - Special Tools: 36 mm Front Wheel Drive Axle Nut Socket 1/2" Drive [3/4" drive truck tool unnecessary], Wheel Hub Locking Bar. WSM specifies special Nissan tool Flange Wrench page CH-210. Local Nissan dealership has never seen one. I made my own - check below. - Other Tools: Pitman Arm Puller, Copper / Brass Head Soft Hammer, Hydraulic Trolley Jack, Bottle Jack, Thin Nose Pliers, Screwdriver, Torque Wrench, 1/2 " Wrenches, 1/2" Extension Drives, 12 mm Washers. 1/2" Sockets: Wheel Nuts - 21 mm, Stabilizer Bar to Wheel Hub Flange Nut - 14 mm, Lower Control Arm Ball Joint - 22 mm, Caster Rod to Lower Control Arm - 17 mm, Steering Link Ball Joint - 19 mm. 1/4" Socket: Inboard CV Joint Flange Bolts - 12 mm plus 1/4" Extension Drives 3" and 6". - Parts: 3 x 2 Split Pins for wheel hub, lower suspension arm ball joint and steering rod ball joints. - What Can Go Wrong: Many things. High powered / over powered engines can twist splines on outboard axles, so jamming in wheel hub. May require complete removal of wheel hub and upper suspension arm to then mount in a press. Re-fitting the Caster Rods into the Lower Control Arms was more difficult than on an R32. Over-tensioning bolts can cause them to shear off. - Which Side First? Start with left side - slightly easier. Some right side inboard Axle Flange Bolts have no clearance to insert 1/2" 12 mm socket, so use 1/4" 12 mm socket and 1/4" socket Extension Drives. I used two - 3" and 6" lengths. Approach: _____________________ 1. Making a Wheel Hub Locking Bar Note: Jamming a long extension drive between the studs to lock the wheel hub may damage the studs. - I used an old heavy Tyre Lever but steel plate should do, say 45 cm long x 5 cm wide x 8 mm thick. - Tools: Vertical Drill Press, Bench Grinder, Hole Punch, Hammer, 12 mm drill, Dividers, Tracing Paper. a. Use Punch to indent lever near one end. b. Use Dividers to exactly mark off 67 mm [distance between stud centrelines] . Use Punch to indent lever again. This will fit over two adjacent wheel hub studs. c. Use Tracing Paper and draw two concentric circles, r = 33 mm, r = 57.5 mm. d. On outer circle, mark two points at chord length 67 mm apart. e. Overlay on Tyre Lever, line up the two points marked with the two indents. Mark area below 33 mm circle. f. Drill two 12 mm holes at indents. g. Use Bench Grinder to remove marked area and contour to shape of Flange on Disc on Wheel Hub. h. Fit onto Wheel Hub to ensure proper fit. _____________________ 2. Set Up a. Jack front of car, secure at four rigid points with axle stands, timber blocks. b. Remove front wheels - 21 mm socket. c. Remove under engine shroud - 9 bolts 10 mm socket and 3 plastic plugs. _____________________ 3. Remove Left CV Joint Axle. a. Place Wheel Hub Locking Bar over studs, use wheel nuts and washers to clamp flush with Hub. b. Remove Split Pin and Adjusting Cap from Lock Nut. c. Attach the 36 mm socket and support with Bottle Jack. Support the Locking Bar [refer pictures]. d. Attach rigid lever, release Lock Nut and remove. e. Remove the 3 x 2 inboard CV Joint Flange Bolts and Nuts - 12 mm socket. 1/4" or 1/2" drive will fit. Rotate axle to access. f. Remove Split Pins and Nuts from Lower Ball Joint - 22 mm, Steering Link - 19 mm and Nuts from Caster Rod - 17 mm. g. Use Pitman Arm Puller to separate Lower Control Arm from Ball Joint. h. Because Disc Calliper has not been removed, the Puller cannot be used to separate the Steering Link [obstructed by ABS Sensor] . So, replace the castellated nut upside down and screw down to protect the thread. Use a 1/2 inch extension drive and soft hammer to separate the joint. i. Remove nut from Stabilizer Bar Link to Hub Flange - 14 mm socket and spanner. j. Swing Hub outwards and allow Outboard CV Joint Axle to slip back out of Wheel Hub. There should be no resistance here. If it is jammed, you have problem. k. Lift axle out and remove. Note: Left side CV Joint Axle does not insert into Differential. Right side CV Joint Axle does _____________________ 4. Remove Right CV Joint Axle. a. - d. As above. e. Use 1/4" 3" and 6" Extension Drives and work around the Lock Ring. A 1/2" socket and extension drive can be used on a couple but not all. f. - j. As above. k. Pull Axle outwards to extract from Differential. WSM suggests removing Differential Cover Plate to lever out Axle - not necessary. Just pull firmly. l. Lift axle out and remove. Note: Place a pan under the Differential opening to catch the small amount of oil that will spill out. _____________________ 5. Take Axles to Workshop for Renovation. Costs. a. Wholesale workshops charge $99 / axle [trade price] = $198. Some will charge $220 / axle = $440, same as retail garage if you are not an account customer. b. Retail garages typically quote $220 per axle to remove / replace and double up the axle renovation cost. Total cost = $880. _____________________ 6. Refit CV Joint Axles, Wheels. - Installation is opposite sequence to removal. Fit new Split Pins to Hub Nut, Lower Ball Joint, Steering Link Ball Joint. - Fitting the Caster Rods was slow, maybe due to Nolathane Bushes in Caster Rod [less flex]. I used a jack and long levers to move the suspension around until the Lower Control Arm lined up with the Caster Rod bolts. _____________________ 7. Torque Settings ft-lb average [from WSM]. - Flange Bolts = 24 [no chance of using a Torque Wrench, so one goes easy], Axle Nut = 200, Caster Rod Nuts = 87, Lower Ball Joint = 80, Steering Link Ball Joint = 25, Stabilizer Bar Link = 32, Wheel Nuts = 80. _____________________ Photos:

For Sale: Mustang Recognition Guide 1965-1973 by Larry Dobbs, Donald Farr, Jerry Heasley, Rick Kopec. Published by California Mustang Sales & Parts, Inc., 1989. "A year-by-year, model by model, review of Ford's fabulous Mustang in pictorial detail". ISBN 0-9624908-2-2 Perfect Condition - A$200, bought new, rarely used, unmarked. Can provide photos. Will post anywhere. Phone Les - Melbourne, Australia. Local Call: (03) 9885 8677. Intl Call: +61 3 9885 8677.

Free R32 GTS-t Original Intercooler, Pipes - Free - Melbourne Pickup. Good condition. Phone Les / Sam - 9885 8677.

- Includes black pipes but not the air intake into the throttle valve...Les.

Hi Guys, R32 GTS-t Factory Original Intercooler & Pipework, etc For Free. Original condition - worked just fine. Melbourne pickup only - any time. Phone Les or Sam - 9885 8677. ___________________________