senilykSkylines

Just got back from a 3 day trip down south... Fun road trip, and I even was on the tail of a fast looking year 2000 + audi up the brynderwyns ; )

Just put in the air filter today and noticed it to be quite perky and fun especially considering it is a hot sunny day and my wife had the A/C on. It will stay in 4th gear a lot longer than it did before. I have to almost floor it to get it into 3rd. LOL, I'm guessing cause she doesn't need to change down to get acceleration :b It is still only running 10ish psi so I will give it a bit more of a tweak. The car seems to hesitate a little still, but seems better since changing the plugs and the air filter. I might put up with the coils till they die a little more. Who knows what power it is doing, definitely faster than stock though cheers, Dan

It was pinging on the dyno run (my tuner wasn't there). So he test drove it to see what was wrong and why it would be pinging and he said it was fine when we road tested it.

I did sit in the car and drove it around while he was watching what was happening on the laptop. He told me that everything was good and no pinging at all... What more am I suppose to do? He claims to have tuned multiple skylines to 300rwkw or there abouts and out of many, only one has given up the ghost and he said that engine was sick anyway. I adjusted the plugs today and it is still hesitating. It would hesitate at 3000-3500rpm and then perk up and then lag again. But not necessarily all the time. The plugs looked pretty good, maybe a little yellow. No sign of detonating. The coils looked yellow through the plastic cover. Not sure how to tell whether they are worn or not. Do I take the plastic cover off? Air filter came today will install tomorrow.

cheers and thanks mate.

What is heat soak exactly? Thanks stagefummer11, I thought i wasn't crazy. I definately think I should be getting 170ish with my current mods, more than 150 neway. Rolls, I seriously do not want to go down the tuning line again at the moment. If I did, I would have to go with someone else or do a full dyno $tune$. My tuner seemed to think that it was fine and I can only trust him that he knows what he is doing because I don't. I am sure you know what your talking about but I 'm stuck in the middle wondering who to listen to? I would rather get a fmic as I think it would be cheaper than doing another tune+dyno runs (Still retaining the smic). When it pinged, apparently it was doing it slightly and not badly. It had loads of fuel going in so the pistons wouldn't melt at least I'll take your advice and look to adjust those gaps and then maybe if the problem still exists change the coils. Could it be that the gapping of the plugs and/or shotty coils are the problem for a lower power estimation?

3-4k it tends to do it and maybe even higher in the rev range. I am actually running 10psi and spiking to 11-12 already (I had a little boost gage leak :b) And Yes they are the original packs from my understanding. Would I need aftermarket ones or just new stock ones? I might try to change the spark gaps anyway and see if it fixes it... and if not I'll look into the coils. How expensive are coils? If the coils aren't giving me a good charge then that could be why my power is down. I do not want to get it tuned again, I have just spent money getting it tuned to how it is. I shouldn't need a tune after changing coils, surely? I would like to avoid getting a fmic if I can. I am wanting to set up a water spray kit to keep it cool and avoid thrashing it on really hot days. Before I dyno it I'll sort out the missfiring and I will be very picky on which dyno I run lest it over heats the little intercooler and starts pinging again. Thanks for your help guys. cheers Dan P.S. I'm not wanting to get into 400hp+ kind of stuff. I just want to tweak the car a bit with what money I have.

Hey Rolls, 150kw is just a number mate, you should have gotten a before and after dyno to see what the increase was, who knows it might have only read 110kw before you tuned it? I do have a rough idea of what people get on a dyno. I have spent some time reading through both the det and de performance results pages here on SA. The 40kw is not a big difference because they are almost certainly making similar power levels and it is just different temps, dynos and other things making the figure vary so much. Yup. On a cold night it does feel a lot peppier. It's more fun to do it up yourself I think. Better the devil you know than the devil you don't know Just that I haven't got the gains suggested by many other people, though it sounds like I may be closer to those marks as a I thought. Temp does have a lot to do with it. Also the slipping feeling, do the revs flare up like a slipping clutch or does it just lose power? could be the typical coil packs giving in and causing the annoying as all hell stutter and misfire Nah the revs don't go up, it just hesitates- lose power. The tuner checked the coil packs when we road tested it and said everything looks in pretty good condition and no cracks. So I am thinking sparkies. But you never know, a coil might be going. He didn't mention any hesitation on the road test, it seems to be a little irreguler, but I notice it only since the tune. Jonno, its impossible to tell how much power its making on the road. so hes guessed and given you a rough number and now your complaining because its not as much as you'd hoped. from what you can tell on the road it could be making anywhere from 100rwkw to 200rwkw. My tuner said (Before we road tested it) in summer I might be doing 170rwkw with my mods because of my little smic but in winter he said it would be up around 190rwkw (I'm happy with that, I would be happy with 170ish but 150?. But since we have road tuned it, it came to his idea of 150rwkw. He did point out a figure on the screen? He said something about "70" which made him thought it was running about 150? I don't think it was just a feeling and a guestimate. But I don't know. same tune on another engine making 190rwkw doesnt mean much, you could use the same tune and only make 100rwkw if something else isnt the same. Hence why I am getting a panel filter

Nah it didn't make a 150 on the dyno. The tuner took it for a road test with his laptop hooked in etc and said it was running about 150 he thought... so it was an estimate by him I guess. I'm not the knowledgable one here so I took his word for it. We made the car work on the road test and he said there was no pinging at all... everything was running sweet. The same tuner has used the dyno room (the one I used when it pinged, my tuner was absent when I dynoed it) on another car in the past and he said they had to stop testing every 10-15min to let the car cool down (Or somethin like that). The tuner also told me that he did the SAME tune on another same engine and got 190rwkw... that is what he told me. He reconed the stock air filter was letting me down and the smic. I will change the air filter and see what happens. The day we were road testing the car it was a wet rainy day that was humid and warm but not hot. ---Messiah--- The Z32 ecu is tunable hence why I got it A side NOTE: I'm noticing the car hesitating on acceleration sometimes almost like a clutch slipping (I realise it is an auto lol). I am guessing I need to adjust the gaps on the sparkies to .8mm is it? Could it be that there is one of my problems?

I am realising the fmic is the key. Sites like these I was getting my ideas from: R33 tuning results. My car must just be different... Yeah, you really need a good heat shield if the pod will work. My K&N panel filter is in the mail now She definitely drives better with what I have done so far, still loads of fun. Just not what was sold to me. cheers guys,

Most will only make around 110-120kw stock 110 is what many N/A's make... or so was my understanding :S, I have owned an N/A and the det was MUCH faster at stock. it is just a number mate, get over it seriously, true. I REALLY doubt it drives any different to these '190kw' versions. 80hp@engine = approx 40rwkw... big difference, that is more of a difference between the det and the N/A? Is it currently fast enough? yes and no. If so then who cares? If not then start upgrading? A dyno is a tuning tool, nothing else I have started upgrading, yet money doesn't grow on trees, lol. So the general consensus is that 150rwkw (Approx 15-20rwkw gain) is quite reasonable from a tuned computer, running approximately 10psi, walbro GSS42 pump (not that it would make much difference) and 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat). All in excess of a grand spent. man I sound like a win-ger. Just hate the thought of wasting over a grand for a meagre increase in hp. I would never had done so, should it be such a little increase. cheers mate. LOL computer having a mental.

<font color="#1C2837"><font><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Most will only make around 110-120kw stock</span></i></font></font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></font></font></font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">110 is what many N/A's make... or so was my understanding :S, I have owned an N/A and the det was MUCH faster at stock.</span></font></font></font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></font></font></font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">it is just a number mate, get over it seriously,</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></font></font></font><div><font class="Apple-style-span" color="#1C2837"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></font></div><div><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">true. </span></font></font></font></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" color="#1C2837"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></i></font></div><div><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I REALLY doubt it drives any different to these '190kw' versions</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">.</span></font></font></font></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" color="#1C2837"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></font></div><div><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">80hp@engine = approx 40rwkw... big difference, that is more of a difference between the det and the N/A? </span></font></font></font></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" color="#1C2837"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></font></div><div><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I</span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">s it currently fast enough?</span></i></font></font></font></div><div><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i></i> </span></font></font></font></div><div><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">yes and no. </span></font></font></font></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" color="#1C2837"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></i></font></div><div><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">If so then who cares? If not then start upgrading? A dyno is a tuning tool, nothing else</span></i></font></font></font></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" color="#1C2837"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></font></div><div><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I have started upgrading, yet money doesn't grow on trees, lol. </span></font></font></font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></font></font></font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So the general consensus is that 150rwkw (Approx 15-20rwkw gain) is quite reasonable from a tuned computer, running approximately 10psi, walbro GSS42 pump (not that it would make much difference) and 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat). All in excess of a grand spent.</span></font></font></font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></font></font></font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">man I sound like a win-ger. </span></font></font></font><div><font class="Apple-style-span" color="#1C2837"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></font></div><div><font><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><font></font></span></font></font><font class="Apple-style-span" color="#1C2837"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Just hate the thought of wasting over a grand for a meagre increase in hp. I would never had done so, should it be such a little increase.<br></span></font><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span></font></font></font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br></span><font><font color="#1C2837"><font><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">cheers mate.</span></font></font></font><br><font size="3"><font color="#1C2837"><font size="2"><br></font></font></font><br><font size="3"><font color="#1C2837"><font size="2"><br></font></font></font> </div> </div>

Long story mate. The cars handling was rubbish and freaky on any kind of bumpy road. The back would kick out to the side. I took it to a shock "specialist" who tested the rear shocks and said it was fine so I thought it must be the 4WS playing up (So I got a lock bar). Turned out that the left rear shock was stuffed when someone else looked at it. <i>Why do people keep mentioning 150rwkw as a 'good' increase over stock lol? I thought 150rwkw WAS basically stock. Even an auto 33 should be getting around that let alone a manual? :S</i> True, I agree. They do about 135rwkw stock but dynos vary. For me, I am a little ticked off that some guys on here get 180 ish rwkw from similar mods and on stock ecu. I've done more than a little to gain more power such as turning the boost up 10psi- 11psi and had a Z32 computer tuned for 190rwkw (not dyno tuned), oh and a turbo back 3" exhaust, and a walbro fuel pump. I am now getting a K&N panel filter, hoping that my stock filter is extremely dirty and choking the car and thus finding my reason for being 40rwkw short of a humble goal. I would be happy with 170-180... but 150? I would have spent over a grand to get 10-15rwkw? I realise that I will need a front mount probably to get near the 200 mark... Mind you my tuner may have been wrong when he road tested it. He thought it was running about 150. Cars for ya ay? lol. Process has still been fun though and car is definitely better for torque, if anything. cheers, Dan

Apparently because mine has airbags it needs a cert from my understanding. A front mount will influence the frontal impact of the vehicle apparently. Out of curiosity do you have airbags?

Just called the certifier. He told me that any upgrades taking it past a 20% power increase would need a certification. Also a fmic does need a certification apparently.

My tuner told me that fmic would change the weight of the car and it is things like that which would mean possibly needing to get it certified. Also I went to put a hicas lock bar in and I got told that it would cost $400 (certification fee) from mag and turbo warehouse : / I hope you are right... I would definately consider getting one then. I'll check it out. cheers,

Yup, you guys were right about getting it checked. I am glad I did and my mind rests easy now even though it was all good anyway (Except for a bad dyno room with like one fan on the front of the car). The tuner told me that he did exactly the same tune on another Rb25det and got 190rwkw. 150 and 190 is a big difference. I wouldn't mind if I got 170-180, as long as the car is running good and it is not as low as 150 fro what I have done with it. cheers

I did say "closer" to 190rwkw : l Oh and it is only running 10psi when we were testing it. In NZ you have to pay a $400 dollar bill to certify any modifications, so it is not just $300 (give or take) for a front mount, it is $700.

I dynoed it and found out it was pinging a little. So I took it down to Aucks and saw the tuner who took it for a road test and found nothing wrong. Turned out that he thought the dyno shop I did it in had insufficient cooling fans and so with my stock intercooler it was overheating a little. He reconed the car was doing about 150rwkw and suggested I would see a massive improvement by changing the air filter to a performance one. So with that he thought I would see closer to the 190rwkw mark. I am also setting up a home made water spray kit for my stock intercooler. cheers,

Turned out to be a worn left rear shock.

Turned out to be incorrect wiring with a pin from the Z32 ecu swap. Being one of the last R33's made the pin was different.

Hey guys, Just wondering if there are four door R33 body kits around or the like. Or is it possible to convert or fit a coupe side kits onto it? I realise the front and the rears should be the same but I am wondering about the sides? cheers, Dan

Hey thanks for the reply. I will be seeing my tuner this weekend for other reasons, but I can check it out with him to see if it is the result of his tune. The car drove fine when i had it on A/C but I never really left it on for a long period once I had noticed it. I don't even have a cat anymore so I would say that is nothing important also. It is just weird with the air con turning. cheers, Dan

The light will come steady on and maybe flick off for a bit after a while, and then turn on again. I have a Z32 computer installed not a powerfc.

Oh ok, would make sense because I took out the cat... being from NZ.