ScreamerNewbie

Yeah I was just saying if you only drill 1 and not the other then the "other" will be the restriction and the drilling would have been pointless.

Well mate why would you drill only the block?? something can only flow as fast as its biggest restriction (we put restrictors in the block, theres like 7mm? of oil gallery and then our 1.3mm? restrictor, only 1.3mmDIA. of oil can flow same principal for oil returns, if you don't drill the head oil returns too, the head oil returns will basically act as the restrictor making it pointless to drill ONLY the block.

id be putting some on atleast a single breather!!!!!!!

cannot suggest enough, accusump! only 300 for a basic 2L and it could save ur engine. baffled, trap doored, extended sump with above and below oil -12 weld ons both in and ex sides. the 1s I don't use I simply cap (I like the options) rear head drain to EX. side sump above oil (tee'd into turbo drain) 2x -12 sump breathers IN. side vent to catch can. drilled block and head oil returns block restrictors rb26 covers with custom baffles 5L vent to atmp baffled catch can with twin filters with optional drain back (currently capped) both lines from cam covers vent to can both lines from sump vent to can oil filter thermostat relocator with 25row cooler. total oil volume 9L rb25/30

Hmmm ok, hoping its just the thicker oil n once warm ot plays nice...

oh shit! that's high for cold start!! once warm that aint to bad! wat oil ? at what point do we start thinking f**k that's dangerous could blow rear main and front seals etc? hasn't done any kms, 1st startup was today and after about 10seconds I noticed it was sitting on 120psi at 1500rpm (didn't wana rev any higher plus 1st EVER start up for the engine.

sorry to bring up the dead guys but im going though the same drama at the moment with my rb25/30 non vct that's just being built and getting tuned 120psi on cold startup and idled at 1500 on penrite running in oil. this seems worrying!!!???? potential to blow seals etc? im reading this from a auto meter prolite mechanical gauge. not sure what the warm oil pressure will be just yet as I haven't let it get to that stage yet. the oil pump is a rb25det pump with billet gears. block has 2x 1.3mm restrictors and the vct line is disconnected. ANY IDEAS ON A FIX??

this ^ is the safest way, and depending on the type of fuel ul end up running (e85 can do nasty things to oil) this is a safe win win option

yes, though iv been told the tolerances on the Nitto collars aren't as nice perfect? as some the others, not sure if this is true or not. I had the drains in the block drilled out but as I could find no clarification on how big I could SAFELY drill out the head, I left the drains in the head as the stock size. due to this, I decided to run a oil drain from back of head to sump, and of course have a large vented to atmosphere sump so the sump can breathe as much as is wants without interfering with the drain of the oil from the head (whichever path it chooses to take, being the OEM drains or the external head to sump drain)

if you wanted to be really safe, run a accusump also. for $300 they could save your engine come a oil pump fail. other than that all good. with a sump vented to catch can id make sure you vent the catch can to atmosphere IMO I wouldn't want that shit going back through my system. other than that looks good. maybe just keep the limiter to a soft ignition cut as you only have N1 oil pump gears. (its the bounce of the limiter that kills the gears in the oil pump, especially if you don't have the crank snout)

okie dokies well thanks heaps for all your help guys!. any one done any guard PULLING?

ok thanks heaps for that! my car would be sitting as lowwww as possible to the rim so a bit more flair

yeah wanting absolute MAXIMUM traction due to the 700hp that will be trying to excape the rear wheels lol

serious pump as in like 20mm? or a lot more? not sure how thick/strong the inner guard is on the rear looks pretty tough

haha thought so . by fairly aggressive you mean like 20mm flair from stock and rolled until flat? or more?

HOWWWWWW are 235 to big for 18X10!?!?! guard work as in a roll? or as in flair?

hey guys, I have a lowered r33gtst (guard must sit 10mm off guard) im running 18x10+38 (on the rear) with 0deg camber for maximum traction. with a very tightly rolled lip I wana fit the widest tyre possible, can I go something like a 285/295? is this going to fit or will I need to flair the guard? cheers

hey guys im deleting vct on my 25/30 still running hydraulic lifters though, iv removed and plugged the vct solenoid in the head, obviously the bottom of the head is welded (the vct feed area). and I have 2x 1.2mm oil restrictors is there anything else I need to do?

hi guys im currently building a 400+kw rb25/30 retaining vct my head is currently being machined and I need to know what the maximum diameter is that I can drill out the head oil drains? I have a -12 headoil drain also and restrictors etc but I will be doing the above also, any info or feed bad muchly appreciated Corey

good stuff!

nice work, will you be running E85?

so keen to see final results, r u going with more spitfires? or something else like bosch?

ill be keeping my eye on this build!!!!!!!

love the choice of rim, the colour on white looks great also, great offsets, perfect fitment IMO

howd you manage a deal like that!? hahah