underground

My motor is a R33 RB26DETT.... Keep in mind, I am RWD! The motor is in a 240SX (AU 200SX/Silvia) I don't lose anywhere close to the drivetrain loss you AWD guys do... And while the difference in your dyno dynamics is different, it's not that big... I will get some dyno comparisons, but its no more than 20kw from seing my friends cars...

Hey Guys, Well, we took the car back for day #2 of dynoing the RB26DETT 240SX.. Yesterday, we experienced some motor knock, and found out the timing was advanced to 22 degrees... Today, we retarded the timing to 18 degrees and gapped the spark plugs to 0.8.... At factory PSI, the car dynoed 251kw, and 263.6 lbs of torque...93 octane pump gas.. At 14.7 PSI , car dynoed 286kw and 318.3 lbs of torque...93 octane pump gas.. I believe with a SAFC, we can smooth out the power curve and pick up another 12-19 kw.... Here's the dyno graphs showing baseline and high boost...chart shows rear wheel Horse Power as measured on Dyno Jet...

But, what do you guys think about the whole cam situation? Do you think it has them? Also, why do you think we were getting knocking on the 15 PSI run? We think that the timing may have been advanced by whatever Japanese person last had the motor... We assumed it was stock and never messed with it... But after the knocking tonight, and the the fact that it looks advanced, we are going to check it... Tomorrow we will be adding 118 octane race fuel and giving a 15 PSI pull...

Yeah, for 9 PSI, it's very impressive.. The sound is so loud of those turbos... The guys that were there were commenting on how nice it sounded.. You would have really thought it was two HKS turbos with all the noise...Very loud for stock...

No, it's the standard Dynojet... Mine is programmed for the Skyline, Silvia's, etc... So, it shouldn't read any different...

Do you guys think the car has cams based on this dyno? I was really impressed for having a totally stock motor, stock ecu, etc... The only mods were downpipe and exhaust... Boost controller turned to 15 PSI for the last two runs...major knocking...and not sure why...

Hey guys, Well, we dynoed my RB26DETT 240SX today... The first time we dynoed at factory boost settings, which on my boost guage was 9 PSI... We made 320 rwhp or 239 kw, I believe this is about average for stock ecu, stock motor, etc... Our importer thinks the motor had cams, but we aren't sure... It does have a lope to it, and if I was a betting man, I would think there is... Maybe you guys can took a look at my dyno chart and give me an idea of what you think... On the second pull, we upped the boost to 15 PSI, or 1 bar...The car pulled timing and started knocking... I'm not sure if it was the fact we only had 93 octane gas in the tank, or whether the timing might be advanced too much... The first graph is of the stock pull at 9 PSI... The second graph shoes all three pulls, with the last two being at 15 PSI... Thanks! Chris

Hi, check my above post... I changed it...

I think the AVC-R is hooked up correctly... My worry is that the boost gauge is not... According to the directions the apexi pressure sensor is supposed to be hooked up with a T-fitting to the factory boost pressure sensor.. Thing is I don't have the factory boost pressure sensor as it didn't come with my motor.. But, the shop that did the swap did hook up the Autometer Electric boost gauge.. and this is what I hooked the Apexi pressure sensor hose with a T-fitting to.. I don't understand where the Automer gauge gets its reading from.. There is only one line going into it with a T-fitting on the other end... The T-fitting goes to the fuel pressure regulator and the Apexi racing BOV.....

Yea, pressure sensor is installed, but the air filter is not... I didn't realize it was that vital... But, i still don't believe the problem has anything to do with the air filter... Here's some more pics...I know I jacked up this install, something is not hooked up properly. I think it probably has to do with how I connected all the components with the hoses.. Give me a few minutes to get the pics uploaded and posted...

AVCR parts list Here is the AVC-R parts list copied out of my catalog..

I'm not sure if the air filter was installed or not.. I will have to go back and check.. Apexi Supplied Sender Unit? The only parts included are the screen/controller, solenoid valve, pressure sensor..and clamps, hoses, etc..

Hey guys, I hooked up the AVC-R this afternoon, and I'm having major problems with overboosting... It's as if the boost solenoid doesn't do anything but let the turbos boost to the sky... I set the settings on the AVC-R to 1.0 bar and 40% duty cycle so that I could begin fine tuning it... The boost goes all the way to 1.5 bar when I get on it... These are on stock turbos! So, I took it back home and have been trying to figure out what I did wrong... It's only pulling -220 mg hg , according to the AVC-R when idle, which I think is not enough vacuum.. Sorry, trying to do conversion as I'm from the states and don't know what this means.. Also, do I need to plug up the NC side on the boost solenoid? Here are some pics, hopefully you can follow my installation and let me know what I did wrong... Thanks! Chris

Well guys, its been a few weeks and temps seem to be more under control... I built a box around the radiator that connects to the intercooler, I also put a scoop on the bottom of the box to grab air from the outside.. (I copied that Supra's scoop that one of you guy posted a link to.) The temps seem to hold steady at 210 F while driving around, but under boost can reach 220F... I know this is still hot, but it's a definate improvement. At least it doesn't climb endlessly anymore.... Here's what I found today: Mineral deposits, a.k.a motor grime, it's like muddy type residue that is all in my radiator cooling fins... I've flushed the motor, but the residue is just glued on my radiator fins it seems. I took a knife and scraped some off, and it looks like mud and has the same texture.. It's thick and I can tell it's not oil.. I'm wondering if maybe I have a blockage in the radiator from all this mud substance stuff.. Anyways, there's the update and as always, any help is greatly appreciated... Chris

What I am going to do is to make a video for all to view.. I'm going to simply start the car and drive it until it gets hot.... Hopefully maybe the rate of pace, etc might explain to you guys whats going on... Once it gets to about 210 degrees Farenheit, I will pull over and pop the hood, and film what's going on... This is the only thing I can think of. That way you can experience what I am experiencing and maybe get a better idea.. Chris

Any other suggestions? Come on guys, I need all the help I can get... I really don't think its an airflow issue. I am going to have some custom induction vents built tomorrow to scoop air from the underside of the car... I really feel this is something more mechanical...

I have had it backflushed, using a water hose and Prestone Do-It-Yourself Flush Kit at my house... But, I really don't think its a blockage issue..... I really feel there is another reason its overheating...

I tried researching this CO test.... Where do you get this done at? I can't find anything online about CO testing for coolant... I'm heading to a big city today here in the states where I could get it done most likely, but give me some guidance here...

Those pics were taken with me putting my digital camera lense into the overflow tank... Hopefully you guys can make out what your looking for... Also, just to add a little info, that car has been sitting for about 4 hours in cool temperatures as I live in the mountains and it's pretty chilly tonight...

Here's the pics... The first one is the normal coolant color, I prefer Toyota Coolant as opposed to anything else stateside... I drained the coolant and just took pictures of the residue that didn't come out with the coolant... It's a slimy substance that obviously doesn't wanna flow out with the water, which makes me feel its oil of some kind... Has a black-brownish color to it.

I had the cooling system pressure checked, but the results came back that everything was OK... So, I don't think its a leak... One thing I need to mention is that there is oil in my coolant overflow tank again... I'm really thinking its a headgasket with a crack in it... If it is indeed a bad headgasket, can I simply buy a new one? Do I need to have the head machined? Or is this a simple plug and play deal?

Anybody able to confirm that the 300ZX TT thermo is the same?

Is that a OEM part I should look for? Or do I need to buy those from like Tomei?