underground

Yeah, its going to be laggy.... it will be way worse on a stock motor... What all do you have done? Cams, etc?

Well guys, I haven't pulled out the thermostat as I need a flex socket to get in a angle to undue those three bolts. I can't get into the shop until Monday... Here's the situation.. Today I noticed that I have oil in my radiator coolant. It's not a huge amount, but still... I thought that surely if it was a headgasket, that I would have water in my engine oil, but not that I can tell... Today, one of my buddies from the states had me take off the radiator cap and let the motor get to normal operating temperatures... It got all the way to 100 degrees celsius, and the water level never dropped. So, I think there's a good chance my thermostat is stuck shut... either this, or I have a waterpump that is faulty, because I didn't see any water movement in the radiator.. Right now, I'm ready to pull my hair out. The whole thing with the oil in the coolant has really got me nervous.. Any guidance is always appreciated! Chris

I would be happy to help you get a pair of those fans... A matter of fact, I am happy to help any of you guys looking to get USA parts...

Keep in mind, it wasn't just plug and play.... We cut out over 2" inches in the radiator support, in order to put the radiator where that piece of the support used to be... It wasn't a drop in kind of thing.... I believe this can only be done on the S14, 95-98 Silvia (200SX)... I don't think the S13 body will allow the same modification... Chris

I am running these fans in a dual setup as my pullers... http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/low-p...e-electric.html I am running these fans in a dual setup as my pushers... http://www.permacool.com/Catalog/Cat_page16.html

Didn't mean to come off like an ass there man... I was told the same thing, using push and pull fans together wont add anything in terms of a solution... However, I dont believe anything until I test it first... And I'm glad I did, because I'm one step closer to finding the cure....

Well, its working so far... And I'm going to add another pusher... to make 4 fans total...

Also, I've bled the system, checked the thermostat... I am also running "40 Below water wetter" with about 90% water..

I'd like to get it in the 180 degree range, as I've noticed this is where the motor is most efficient on the track... this has also been confirmed by Tilbrook Auto and Dyno.. I think the problem is simply lack of airflow to the radiator.... I think some ducting between the FMIC and radiator, as well as the addition of another 12" push fan, will bring my temps where I need them...

Yeah, the fans do have their shrouds...

Can I add some push fans? and run push and pulls together?

Hey Guys, My car is currently sitting until I can figure out how to solve my overheating issues... I have a Nismo thermostat and a Fluidyne Radiator, along with (2) 12" electric pull fans... I can't keep the RB26 cool for anything (Runs consistently 99-110 degrees C) . I think alot of it has to do with not enough air flow in the Silvia's engine bay... Could anybody give me the stock GTR radiator sizing? I am going to have to call tomorrow and see if I can have a custom radiator made.. I need to find out what size radiators you GTR guys use so that I can have one made with similar surface area.... Thanks! Chris

Who all makes a speed cut defender..?

It's a stock RB26DETT, does have cams, but that's it... Stock Turbo's, Stock ECU.... Stock AFM's

Hey All, I have been experiencing what appears to be a rev cut with my RB26DETT motor... I am using the RB25DET tranny in my Silvia... The car just bogs down, like a speed cut, where it almost turns the motor off.. You get this instant thump where all power is cut to the motor... It occurs about 7000 RPM in 3rd gear, and about 6000 RPM in 4th gear... I'm sure it does this in all of my gears, but this is where I noticed it tonight when drag racing... The only thing I can think of is I currently don't have any filters over my air flow meters.. The MAF's are wide open to the outside air.. All I can guess is that the MAF is sensing too much air flow and telling the motor to cut revs... I'm just shooting in the air... Any help is appreciated! Chris

Hey Guys, I have a R33 GTR Powered Silvia and have been looking to up the boost from stock.... I was reading in Zoom about removing the boost restrictor to give you 1 bar of completely safe boost... Well, we pulled the restrictor, and no power gains.... At the moment, I don't have an air filters as we couldn't find any that would fit. The AFM's are open to the air... Any guidance is appreciated... Chris

No, as Cwings (Sponsor) would be very upset...... Obviously, if I painted the carbon, it would defeat the purpose of their sponsorship... Take care!

What plugs do I buy? What part #? Obviously nobody here in the states is gonna know RB series part numbers? Also, what should I gap them at? Or do they come bolt-in from the package? Chris

Yep, Yep.... But, I am really worried about the engine noises its making.... Can anybody check it out?

Hey Guys, I am getting my RB26DETT 98 Silvia back tomorrow after being shipped halfway across the country.... Here's the pics and vids.... www.undergroundmotorsports.com I am a little concerned as the sound of the motor in the vids sounds a little off... The motor has cams and some head work.... I don't have any experience with the GTR's, so this is the first GTR motor I've heard... Something sounds a little off to me... But the shop that performed the work feels confident everything is cool.... Opinions are greatly appreciated... Chris Riggs

Anybody got a manual RB20DET ECU? How would we know if it was a manual or auto ECU? We bought a motorset...

He mentioned that when in neutral he can rev all the way to redline. It's only when he's underload, driving, that he has this problem. I just can't figure out why its not sending a code to the ECU. It doesn't make any sense. I'm wondering if it might have something to do with the wiring on sensors on the transmission.

Heres when he started having problems: "When I took it to emissions, it was sitting there about 15 minutes, when the water started boiling in the recovery bottle. I turned off the car and let it cool down. Driving it home, the intercooler hose, hose between pipe and hot side of intercooler, blew apart." He had somebody tow him home. He had it parked for 3 weeks. Installed the Hybrid FMIC and has had problems ever since.

Hey Guys, I'm buying a 89 240SX with RB20DET swap for my little brother. He currently is having problems with the rev limit. The motor won't rev past 5500RPM. He has installed three different RB20 ECU's. After about 15 minutes after each ECU swap he's done, the computer trips and wont let the car go past 5500RPM. But, it will rev fully for about 15 minutes after he swaps them. I have been ragging my mind trying to think of what could be causing it. I have had this problem on cars with bad boost sensors, where they are overboosting, and the ECU puts a clamp on RPM. But, the guy I am buying the car from is saying the RB20DET doesn't have a boost sensor. I have never swapped one and don't have any experience with that motor. List of things checked/replaced: ECU (3 different ones) NEW ECT air control valve aac valve MAF (3 Different ones) CAS (2 different ones) Compression tested (145-160 psi across the board) scoped bottom end (no damage) igniter chip (2 different ones) tested all coil packs Any ideas? Chris

I have the GTR Cams and Injectors out of my RB26 Silvia. I will just use those. I didn't realize they swapped out. I have a Walbro 255/lph with Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator. I notice alot of people simply using the SAFC, is this enough? Or Maybe Greddy Emanage? Thanks!