[Like loud exhausts? You could be a psychopath.]

Obviously the author has an agenda.

Guarantee if they did the same study with the same 500 students (who are prob 18-25 in age), but the question was framed "Do you like loud music" or "Do you think loud music is cool"

They would get exactly the same results!

But i gotta admit, quality mufflers over straight pipe or fart cannon ftw.

 

 

[Front Tyres on R34 GTR, fitment, etc, *question*]

Pretty sure REAP3R (white 34 R) runs 305 x 30's on a 19x11 inch wheel. Stock guards by the look of it (minus liners i guess)

[Parts required for 4:11 diff gears in an R34 GTR Vspec (A-LSD)]

3 hours ago, Heyyob22 said:

Thank you for the info! 
 

Did you get a 33 gearbox speed sensor to have your speedometer to work?

Does the Speedo work but not accurate? 

Speedo is out by about 12-15% I.E - If doing a road speed of 100km, the speedo is showing about 115km.

The 33 GTR speed sensor is almost impossible to come by. I was lucky enough that someone on FB marketplace was selling an entire gearbox, and i just politely asked to buy the speed sensor off him. I have not installed it yet though..

I thought about the speedo correctors, but heard some not so great things about the Jaycar unit.

Lucky for me, i use a Powertune digital dash in the 34 MFD cluster. I have the GPS unit, but the dash also has a speed offset function in which you can choose the offset percentage. So i just bang in an offset of 15% and the digital display shows the correct speed on the MFD.

[Parts required for 4:11 diff gears in an R34 GTR Vspec (A-LSD)]

21 hours ago, Heyyob22 said:

Hey just wondering how does the car drive now with the 4.11 gears now, was there any problems driving with the R33 A-lsd? Also did you upgrade the front diff when you changed to 4.11 gears? 

It's good, but not as good as some people make it out to be on social media. Yes, you can feel the torque come in earlier, yes, it does make the car feel more lively below 4000rpm, and yes, it does feel more responsive, but it's not this 'unicorn' mod. 

Everyday driving? Below 100km/h on Australian roads, it's worth it. At 110km in 6th gear mine will sit on about 2860rpm.

Doing a Motorkhana or a small circuit? Yes, it's worth it.

Doing Texas style speed runs? Prob not.

Do you use the gears more? Yes and No. Doing 60/70km on most roads, I'm using the gears just like any other Getrag. 80km and above, you use 5th and 6th more often.

Absolutely no issues driving with the 33 A-LSD.

Didn't change the front diff, only changed the C&P wheel. Some people say to upgrade to a Quaife etc, but i've had no issue with torque steer or having it wander all over the road.

The one thing that no-one really addresses is the issue of the Speedo being out. It's either use a speedo corrector, find a 33 gearbox speed sensor, or use an aftermarket display with GPS speedo.

[Parts required for 4:11 diff gears in an R34 GTR Vspec (A-LSD)]

2 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

If you just want a CWP check out neat gearbox’s in Adelaide, they make replacement CWP for GTR in a number of ratios. Not OEM and not cheap either! 
they do front and rear and they do have a good reputation, I sourced a new rear CWP and sent it to them with my front and had them shot peened, looked good when I got them back. 

Neat don't yet make the CWP for the 34 vspec A-LSD. I know this because i was talking to them about it last year. They were looking to source a Vspec diff to get the measurements

[Parts required for 4:11 diff gears in an R34 GTR Vspec (A-LSD)]

5 hours ago, Jumbotron said:

Thanks for confirming glad it worked out in the end. For the r33 vspec rear diff is it a direct swap, any modifications or r33 driveshafts needed? 

Also do you mind sharing where you sourced parts from? Having trouble finding front CWP or front diff from r32/33

33Vspec diff direct swap. No other modifications needed to the 34 rear end.

Initially, was hard to source the 33 vspec diff at a reasonable price. I found 1 at JustJap.

Otherwise Yahoo auctions, or go through an importer like ImportMonster etc

[Parts required for 4:11 diff gears in an R34 GTR Vspec (A-LSD)]

1 hour ago, Jumbotron said:

Hi did you end up doing the 4.11 gears? Is it only the front and rear CW&P that needs to be changed?

I now have 4.11's - But, not a straight fit for the 34 Vspec. The 33/32 CW&P does not mesh inside the 34 A-LSD diff housing (different wheel to pinion thickness)

In order to retain the A-LSD, i bought a 33 Vspec rear diff.

Front is the same across 32/33/34.

 

[WTB - R33 GTR speedo sensor]

Pretty self explanatory. Looking for an R33 GTR speedo sensor. Can't buy them new anymore.

DM me if you have 1.

Thanks

[R34 - Switching cluster from non turbo auto --> turbo manual after diff change]

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

Is there a better way to do this? If people have figured out how to modify the odometer on the cluster module surely it must also be possible to figure out how to recalibrate how it correlates output shaft speed on the transmission to speed/distance.

I've been told that the R33 GTR speedo sensor will fit into the Getrag, but you just need to modify the adaptor plug to suit the 34. But in saying this, i've also been told the speedo is still out by 3-5%

[R34 - Switching cluster from non turbo auto --> turbo manual after diff change]

7 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

DO NOT USE THE JAYCAR MODULE.
IT IS SHIT, UPDATES SLOW AND IS SHIT. I HAVE USED IT. I HAVE AN ALTERNATIVE.

BUY THE DAKOTA DIGITAL ITEM LINKED BELOW INSTEAD.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1192/mode=prod/prd1192.htm

IT CAN BE FOUND IN PLACES. DO NOT BUY THE JAYCAR ITEM. IF YOU DO, YOU WILL RETURN TO THIS POST AND BUY THE DAKOTA ITEM ANYWAY. THE JAYCAR ITEM IS CHEAP BECAUSE IT IS SHIT.

This sentence is not in bold and in capitals to underline the fact the above formatting is completely intentional.

Noted and taken on board!

[R34 - Switching cluster from non turbo auto --> turbo manual after diff change]

13 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

On the cluster, do not touch the wiring on 30 or 31. They are the output from the cluster to everything else in the car that wants to know vehicle speed.

Connect Jaycar input black wire to the wire coming up from the gearbox to the cluster, which is 19 on the cluster. You need to cut the wire to 19.

Connect the Jaycar red output wire to cluster 19.

Thus, the Jaycar unit is interposed in the line from gearbox speed sensor to the cluster, and adjusts that signal.

Yep, ok got it now! Took me a while 😵‍💫

[R34 - Switching cluster from non turbo auto --> turbo manual after diff change]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

No.

You have to interpose the Jaycar unit in the wire from the speed sensor on the gearbox to the input on the cluster. The Jaycar unit's job is to adjust the signal going into the cluster.

Let's say that your speedo is currently reading 16% fast (4.11/3.54). The Jaycar box will take in the frequency of the sawtooth signal on its input line and feed out an output that is slowed down to get rid of that 16%. Effectively applying an 86% (ie, 3.54/4.11) factor to it. Or, given that you will likely be using a GPS speedo to work out what the actual vehicle speed is, some factor that is close to but likely a little different to 86%, which would also dial out the original speedo error.

Right, not sure if i explained myself correct. So wire in as below?

*edit, use accessory power to turn on the unit, i'll prob use the cigarette lighter etc, not pin 29 (ign)

 

[R34 - Switching cluster from non turbo auto --> turbo manual after diff change]

35 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

You don't need to worry about the cluster's output. If you get the input right, the cluster's output will be right.

The way the Nissan speed sensors and speed signals work is:

1. The speedo sensor in the gearbox/transfercase/diffsnout/wherever generates an alternating current (more or less sawtooth) voltage waveform that varies frequency with vehicle speed. (It also changes voltage, getting larger as it turns faster - but that doesn't matter).
2. The speedo head reads that sawtooth waveform and uses it to drive the speedo needle position.
3. The speedo head also outputs a 0-5v squarewave PWM signal that is the VSS (Vehicle speed signal) to the ECU and any other CU on the car that wants to know vehicle speed.

Traditionally, on older cars, there was only the one VSS. But if the 34GTR puts out 2 such, who am I to argue? Anyway, as you can imagine, if you get the input signal right, the cluster will take care of the rest. All you need to do is use the Jaycar module to either speed up or slow down the frequency, as required.

Thanks @GTSBoy - So pretty much i dont need to wire in the "Speedo Out" wire on the Jaycar unit.

I.E :

1. Power

2. Ground

3. Pin 19 on 34 cluster to speed input wire on Jaycar unit

4. Leave Speed out wire disconnected. Or ground?

[R34 - Switching cluster from non turbo auto --> turbo manual after diff change]

Hi guys.

Still trying to find some info. Having replaced my Getrag 3.54 diff ration to 4.11's, my 34R speedo is out. Am planning to use the Jaycar Speedo corrector kit.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/speedo-corrector-module-for-cars/p/AA0376?pos=1&queryId=88be0ef7c2dc84f96cf96bd17b61361f&sort=relevance&searchText=speedo

 

Whilst i understand the speed "input" is pin 19, I need to clarify what pin "30" and "31", that being the speedo output, does to the cluster.

Jaycar's instructions are:

 

But the 34 cluster has both 2 pulse and 8 pulse output. 

Ay ideas?

[Mods + Benefits, my experience.]

On 9/19/2023 at 10:49 AM, Butters said:

 

6 speed Getrag install

Kept the 4.11 and also put in a nismo twin  clutch

- This was good but actually a bit of a disappointment, I guess I had been suckered by the motive/ mines videos.

- The car had no more response which  in hindsight makes sense. What it did , was allow you to be in the correct gear when you need it, specially 2nd out of of corners was much nicer.  Overall the car might be slower down the 1/4 due to all the changes required.   

- I do like the box though and knowing I can drive it hard is what having a car like this is all about. 

 

 

 

I recently did the 4.11's in the 6 speed Getrag (34 GTR). I already have a responsive setup using a GTX3576 gen 2. I actually agree with you on some of this.

YES, It makes a difference, but it's not some magical thing like Motive make it out to be. I still think it's worthwhile, and im glad i did it, but it's not this crazy WOW moment.

[R34 Gtt Dash Clutser Wiring Diagram]

Massive thread bump. Anyone know if the speed signal input/output wire (pins 30 and 31) is the same for a 34 GTR ?

Have recently changed to 4.11's in the Getrag.

 

 

[Dyno Results for HKS GT III - SS Sports Turbo - Twins]

41 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Curious to know what your dyno graph looks like vs this:

 

 

Pretty sure i've posted my graphs in the past on a thread about GTX3576 VS GTX3076 or something.

Note - Hub Dyno. So an approx conversion at say 1000 axle rpm speed x 1:1 gear ratio x 3.54 diff ratio (R34 Getrag) = 3540rpm or there abouts for 21+ psi of boost.

In the real world, im not sitting there staring at my boost gauge while driving, but i've had -9's in the past too, and i prefer the single.

[Dyno Results for HKS GT III - SS Sports Turbo - Twins]

6 minutes ago, GTScotT said:

I'd really love to get some seat time in such a setup as I'm struggling to find sufficient data for it online. Are you in Sydney?

I'm in Sydney. Im sure we can try figure something out. I'll more than likely be at this years GTR festival and *may* do Motorkhana.

[Dyno Results for HKS GT III - SS Sports Turbo - Twins]

15 hours ago, GTScotT said:

I came across this thread looking for info on the GTIIISS and find myself reading another twin vs single debate.. 

 

If it means anything to anyone who still uses a forum.. I too watched the motive video of the 35R against the “-7s” and was sold. I then read the SAU gospel and witnessed the infamous “twins in the bin” meme. Unable to disobey the word of the lord our saviour, I installed the fabled 8374 at considerable cost and have unfortunately resigned to the fact that it’s not all it’s cracked up to be. 
 

The Motive video in question alludes to the fact that the -7s are high flowed but doesn’t give any specs. The car makes 500whp in the video, more than what -7s should make. It’s anyone’s guess what the specs are or how those twins actually perform.. Meaning the video could be showing that half ass twins aren’t as good as a 35R. Like much of the GR Yaris content from the same source.. A crock of shit. 
 

I’m running a bar of boost through my 8374, the car is fast.. But my friends almost identical GTR running a bar of boost through R34 twins is faster. More under the pedal, more when you want it, more over a wider spread. 
 

I’m certain if I threw another 40 grand at the car I could see the 500rwkw that would make the 8374 show how amazing it is compared to other 500rwkw turbos.. But it’s not the “better in every way” dream this forum and the internet at large portrays it to be. 
 

I find it really difficult to find information from Japan, but I have seen a lot of evidence that Japanese tuners are reverting back to twins and aiming for less power. This brings us to the GTIIISS… 

 

I am still legitimately interested to know if they would be better than -9s, and if so by how much? Another thing I am curious of is if a smaller single would keep the simplicity but give back the drive. Adam LZ did the video of the G30-770 on his VCT equipped RB, the graph shows it standing up at 4 and the driving scenes aren’t much different. Perhaps better than the bolt on 8374.. But not by much. 
 

Keen to discuss sub 350kw 98 only RB26. 

I was told to go a GTX3576R Gen2 on my 34 - Stock RB26 bottom end but with a refreshed head, baby HKS Cams, flex tune, usual mods. Have a 4 inch dump, 3.5inch exhaust running through 2 massive Reaper engineering mufflers. Very very quiet, until the wastegate and screamer come on song (which i love).

I couldn't be happier with the boost threshold, transient response and driveability. My goal was to try and compete with R35's for street duties (R35's are still quicker down low compared to my setup). 

Cant do much with my tune locked... But datalogging, doing a few pulls in 4th gear, last years winter, E85 and on flat highway loading the car up from 2400 rpm or so.

MAP sensor showing 155.8 kPA at 3569rpm -which by google translation is 22.5psi of boost. Pretty responsive if you ask me. Tuner said on the dyno was getting full boost (around 26-27 psi by 3800rpm)

 

[GTR Festival 2023]

2 hours ago, FrostyBCNR33 said:

Events this year, Photos from the Past, Fastest GTR 

Watched the Motive build of that 34. Seeing this pic, didn't realise how bad/rusted out those strut towers were back then 🤮

[Parts required for 4:11 diff gears in an R34 GTR Vspec (A-LSD)]

Nice. I was hoping that was the answer 🙂

[Parts required for 4:11 diff gears in an R34 GTR Vspec (A-LSD)]

I kinda have an idea, and there is some bits and pieces on the forums about it.

Looking to do the "Mines R34" diff gearing in the Getrag 6 speed. I want to retain the A-LSD in the Vspec more for the "PuRiTy" aspect of having a Vspec.

Is it a matter of more or less just using the pinion and gears into the existing rear Diff housing?

So: from an R33 or 32 GTR

Front diff pinion/gears

Rear diff pinion/gears

Rear axles/ shafts as the lenghts are different?

Is that basically it?

 

[car hunt challenge: $5k]

Want safety - Buy an early/ mid 2000's Volvo 🙃 

[Turbo Beanie VS No Turbo beanie]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Coking is not a thing on a running turbo that has cooling (ie sufficient oil and/or water flow).

Seems to be more related to when the car is shutoff as opposed to running? Opposing side to that is if the turbo is also water cooled, the water should in theory take out the excess heat anyway.. *After you've let the car cool down*

Similar to the BOV VS No BOV debate

[Turbo Beanie VS No Turbo beanie]

I can't seem to find many topics on this on SAU.

So there are 2 sides to this story that seem to play out.

1. They reduce radiant engine bay heat while increasing turbo efficiency by keeping heat in the turbine housing.

2. Can cause oil "coking" of the bearing due to keeping excess heat in/around the housing

 

Have watched a couple of vids by Engineering Explained and the like on YT, and performance wise, they seem to work well. 

Don't seem to have much real world data on the oil coking bit.

Many RB workshops run them in Aus and all over the world. Anyone have real world experiences with Turbo bearings failing due to Beanies?

P.S (i recently bought a turbo beanie and running it on a water cooled GTX3576 gen2)