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  1. Same can be said for housing. a 1960's 3 bedroom Fibro house full of asbestos was cheap as chips 20 years ago. Try find one under 1 million dollars in Sydney today. Almost impossible. It's just supply, demand, inflation and desirability. Does it make sense. Nope, but it is what it is.
  2. Thread revival. Anyone have any tips for undoing the 12mm nut when it's been rounded off? I can't get much leverage to hit the nut from another hex side that is ok. I've tried some thin vice grips but the nut is too rounded. Will try a flare nut spanner when i get to Repco/ Bunnings etc but seeing if anyone has any tricks/ home made tools?
  3. Looking for an RB26 short block in good condition. Do not need crank/pistons/rods, just the block is fine. Bore doesn't need to be perfect as it will be machined to suit 86.5mm Pistons. Would prefer a later model block, I.E out of a 94 year 32, or an 33 /34 Located in Sydney.
  4. I hope the workshop in question admitted their mistake and intend to fix free of charge at least?
  5. For the OP's purpose, yes just get any decent muffler you can afford, doesn't have to be JDM fanboi brands. In reality the sound can slightly differ between them though. Quality of packing, How the packing is wound, Type of packing (Fibreglass wool, ceramic wool, stainless wool) can change the sound of a muffler. Hell, even the size and shape of the perforated tubing inside the muffler can change the note. Some are high pitched, some are deep and smooth, and some will blow the ass end out when you 2step limiter at the local cars and coffee. Personally for a Non turbo, try find one that has a smooth deep tone, which would be your large oval shaped mufflers like Magnaflow, Xforce etc. The fart cannon will sound shit.
  6. GTX3576R gen2 T3 open scroll RB26, stock bottom end, average compression with reco head and bits n pieces up top, cams etc. 440 odd kw at the hubs. Don't have a boost gauge apart from the 34 GTR MFD, but on the Haltech, E60% ethanol in winter, 152.2 Kpa at 3615rpm.
  7. If you are looking at it from a purely 'investment' angle, then find a low KM example with all logbooks, export certs, stock everything including engine numbers, store it in a garage and don't drive it.. Ever.. Then sell in 15 yrs time.
  8. What happens when you crack your block (Which will happen at some point with an RB 🙂 ) Are you then going to try find another period correct block? Or buy a new one, Because you'd certainly be waiting a while for a 'period correct' block to show up in a for sale marketplace.
  9. Pretty sure Hawkins and his R32 made over 500kw on the 'standard head' without it breaking
  10. Should put the comp wheel on a scale and see how much it weighs compared to a Garrett. Would also be interested to see real world back to back tests on things such as boost threshold/ lag/ transient response etc. The cheaper turbo might match in physical dimensions, but that doesn't mean it's going to be as good as the real thing.
  11. Question. Would you need to have the car retuned if using a plug n play fast air temp sensor? Like the below? https://www.dahtoneracing.com/online-store/Dahtone-Racing-RB26-plug-and-play-fast-response-IAT-sensor-p200603263 Having a Haltech CAN gauge vs MFD intercooler sensors on the 34R, i notice an approx 25-30 degree difference between the IAT sensor vs Intercooler sensor (Intercooler reads 30 odd degrees vs 50-60Deg on the IAT) Since the Haltech has been tuned to drop timing etc on air temp, i'm certainly feeling a drop in power due to heat soak of the IAT.
  12. I emailed both Garret (USA) and GCG. They both said the same thing, that it is a-5 and the tag association of GT25** and GT28** is somewhat of an argument. Not saying you are wrong man, just going off the *experts* advice and the physical measurements i did of the compressor inducer and the turbine exducer using verniers. I put them side by side a set of HKS GTSS turbos and i can say that the 2560 was noticeably larger in every way and matched the -5 specs. Here's another thread with a brand new turbo marked as 2560:
  13. I have since sold these, but there was alot of confusion. I emailed Garrett and was told the GT2560 IS the -5. I can also confirm that the turbine exducer is 47mm, the same as the -5. The -7 turbine exducer is 5mm smaller.
  14. But buying a bottle of milk @ $2.00 vs buying a car @ $35,000 is quite different. Seems fine to me if you want to haggle with a large cost, but pay fixed for small goods.
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