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RB335

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RB335 last won the day on November 22 2016

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About RB335

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    Rank: RB25DE

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  • Car(s)
    GTR

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  1. My EFR9180 and EFR8474 on 2.8 with Vcam Step II / ex HKS 272 8.7 Absolutely visceral to drive
  2. Hi Guys. I'm putting together my 2.8 engine. The exhaust will start off with a HKS 272 10.2mm lift. Eventually I wanted to experiment going with very big lift, such as JUNS 272 which has 11.35mm lift. I can only imagine to get that lift, the lobe will have a more agressive ramp and get more lift earlier in the duration. This question is for exhaust only as I won't be playing around with the intake. So far I had been under the impression high lift with same duration only ads benefits and no drawbacks. Can anyone with experience with this add some input?
  3. Yes that work in the pictures was done at Cut Corners Red Tuning
  4. The shop I used in Beckenham returned my car like this. It's a small sample of the amateur work done Turbo oil drain fouling on turbo manifold, look at it beginning to bubble up. Brought them a brand new gearbox to fit, they put no oil in it and Dynod it like that. They told me to not let it become a subject of an online forum discussion Drove a 50mm long bolt into the RB26 fuel rail mount thread replacing the existing 40mm Plazmamann one already in there. It bottomed out onto coolant rail, mount snapped, proceeded to Dyno car with snapped fuel rail mount. As I like to make fair assessment, I bought a spare manifold/spacer assembly and on the bench I was able to mock up that the installed bolt was indeed too long and caused the failure. Be careful on your choice and ensure you get good work regardless of who you choose. You earned the money fairly.
  5. Hi All. I'm wondering if anyone has recommendations for a good dial gauge kit that they've used on an RB26. Got to get the gauge located right at the correct spot and angle and a good sturdy base to sit in the valley. If anybody has done this before I'd much appreciate any recommendations.
  6. Very few people who I'd trust in WA to tune, but also have a GTR in their care, even the usual recommendations a bit hit and miss lately from feedback
  7. Hi Guys. I've got Nismo S-Tunes in my R33 GTR. I like the ride comfort and handling but at times you can still feel the car could do with something better. I'm hoping to retain good comfort that the S-Tunes give but get better handling. Has anyone here on a R33 GTR personally switched from S-Tunes to something else and can give feedback? I have read reports from a guy who went from S-Tunes to Ohlins and loved the difference in both handling with still soaking up the bumps well. Having heard that feedback they will have to be the go, unless there is something locally produced in Australia that can be just as good if not better Other option is MCA Reds which always appear to get recommended. Oddly, Nismo and Ohlins have spring rates almost even, while MCA have the front almost double of the rear. Hell even if the entry level MCA Comfort-Pro's are going to be better than dated Nismo design, I could start with them. The car also does have 700hp, currently grips perfectly with no wheelspin, I was thinking to go the Ohlins as they aren't too heavy spring rates to help give some squat under power Any advice appreciated keen to hear your experiences Cheers.
  8. GFB DV+ T9360 is a re-circulation valve designed for OEM used BW turbos, while not officially advertised to fit an EFR by GFB, I have tested fits on an EFR. All bolt holes align. Plunger seal is pretty much the same diameter as the face inside the compressor housing so it seals. Piston is workable length to be able to vent when fully compressed into the BPV body. One slight issue is outer seal on compressor housing doesn't sit in factory grove but still sits on a flat surface on the compressor housing
  9. It doesn't look like they are testing each turbo to their potential. Both are tested at 25 PSI, where as they should run whatever boost is required for the specific turbo to make all it's power it can, that might effect the midrange somewhat.
  10. Hi Guys I've got an R33 GTR. It has a brand new gearbox with only about 2000km on it and it appears to have what is a noisy input shaft bearing, I don't know if it's that or if something on the clutch could be causing this noise such as the throwout bearing or pilot bush. The tuner said its the input shaft bearing and that they all become noisy as soon as you put some decent single turbo power through them. Is this true or not? A gearbox shop said it could have ran out of oil from high speed driving since that bearing is at the front of the box. Here is the video of the noise, any help appreciated. I'm unsure if this is common or could just be a bad bearing from new inside the box It's pull type, has an Exedy Carbon sprung clutch When you press the clutch in, it goes away. The thing is... it goes away also when you begin driving, doesn't get loud on load or acceleration, which I'd imagine a noisy input shaft bearing would. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEGlTI7KNDs
  11. Making 50% of max power by 4500, that's amazing. Tempting me to switch from my 8474 to twin 6258s Is anybody able to take measurements of the EFR9280 compressor, I'm seeing if I have enough clearance on my engine to run and test it compared to the 9180 which I have on me which fit fine on a 6boost T4 in a R33 GTR engine bay
  12. I thought I'd bump this thread up rather than starting a new one on the same subject. What are the power limits of a Coppermix twin before they begin slipping when in good condition?, have any of you guys tried pushing 600-800hp region and what have your experiences been. In a GTR, unsure if that makes a difference since the driveline loads it more. I've seen some pretty light driveable clutches used in very high power turbo BMW's but not available in Nissan style. I run a Exedy Carbon D but looking to try something quieter.
  13. Does anyone have a 1.45 rear housing for sale or one they would sell for an EFR8474 message me thanks.
  14. Nosure your housing looks much better and could I say, passable. It still has that same messiness on the bottom of the housing, where mine had loose bits of aluminium floating around. I might add, regardless of whichever way any views would try to see around the defects, it's not a matter of whether it effects performance or not. Ask yourself from what you see, would a housing like that be of acceptable or unacceptable quality. Would you be OK continuing to buy into a product where standards are beginning to slip?
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