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GT-T 1998

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Posts posted by GT-T 1998

  1. full service and all fluids changed at a minimum (gearbox, diff, P/S etc)

    radiator

    clutch

    diff

    tyres

    brakes

    suspension

    no point having 300rwkw if you cant;

    1. turn corners with that power

    2. stop the car with that power

    IMO you really are going about it the wrong way. Handling and learning how to drive comes first, then comes the power. Things like a decent diff and suspension setup make so much difference it's hard to gauge "just how much" because it's more than just a number on a piece of paper.

    And all the stock shit is realistically rubbish stock... so add another 140rwkw or so, just asking for trouble.

    getting a stronger clutch and flywheel,

    may need stronger coil packs and spark plugs aswell ?

    gone over my budget but have to do whats needed so the engine doesnt fail

  2. full service and all fluids changed at a minimum (gearbox, diff, P/S etc)

    radiator

    clutch

    diff

    tyres

    brakes

    suspension

    no point having 300rwkw if you cant;

    1. turn corners with that power

    2. stop the car with that power

    IMO you really are going about it the wrong way. Handling and learning how to drive comes first, then comes the power. Things like a decent diff and suspension setup make so much difference it's hard to gauge "just how much" because it's more than just a number on a piece of paper.

    And all the stock shit is realistically rubbish stock... so add another 140rwkw or so, just asking for trouble.

    stock diff

    stock suspension

    stock brakes n rotars

    stock radiator

    stock clutch

    275/30/19s 245/30/19s back n front with ku31s new treads 2000kms

    just had a service 1200kms ago

    basicly what your are saying is dont go crazy with the power until i upgrade handling and braking other wise ill be off the road in someones house

  3. Nup, gotta pull it off to find out. If you're not mechanically minded, it's a prick of a job to do on the 34 because they use a pull-type clutch.

    Better to just assume your clutch is stock/worn and replace it. If it turns out to be an aftermarket clutch in somewhat decent condition then sell it off and recoup a bit of your money, but that's better than having it fail on the dyno which will cost you money and time anyway.

    yeah sounds about right lol, i should probly tell my mechanic to add it to the list

    thanks for your help mate

    you'll definantly need a h/d clutch which you should be able to tell just by pedal feel. i chose a NPC h/d organic that was $800 delivered,and good for 300rwkw i installed it myself but i believe your looking at $400 or so in labour

    ohk yeah not to bad of a price for that ill have to look into it

    thanks mate

  4. hey guys

    im doing a turbo upgrade that should give me about 300rwkws.

    ill be getting

    knn panel filter

    3inch exhaust with a high flow cat and dump pipe

    front mount intercooler

    oil cooler

    3076 garret turbo kit

    nistune ecu

    electronic hks boost controler

    750cc injectors

    and a larger fuel pump

    the rest of the car is stock and i have 127,xxxkms on the clock

    should i be worried of anything not beable to handle the power upgrade.

    ie clutch, gearbox, engine

    i havnt had a problem with the car at all and prevous owner hasnt either.

    if theres anything that i should/ should not be doing please let me no.

    thanks :)

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