myr332

July 15, 2004

I've noticed a lot of posts stating that to fix certain problems then it may be necessary to reset the ECU. As far as I am aware, the steps to do this are:

1. Disconnect the battery terminals

2. Press the brakes a few times

From a standard ECU point of view, this resets the works and requires the ECU to relearn timings etc..

How does this work with a non-standard ECU that has been tuned? In terms of resetting the CPU, does it also wipe all of the mappings performed by the previous tuner?

I would hate to reset my CPU to find out that it gets me back to the stage of it relearning itself and thus requiring to be tuned once more.

I know this may seem like a fairly obvious question to some, but I am quite interested in the answer none-the-less.

Cheers!

Giles

July 14, 2004

wel bro u give me a offer wat u would pey 4 those mad plates
wat dey r worth

were u from man

Dude - forum rules stipulate that if you want to sell something you have to name a price. The place isn't E-Bay, so we're not here to auction.

July 12, 2004

The obvious one I can think of is Need for Speed Underground. It's an R34 GTR that seems to like to drift a lot? Then again their WRX does as well...

Not really much for the realism of 4wd in that game - still cool though..

I played a game called Thrill Drive 2 the other day at the arcade.........pretty adverage, what was interesting though, is that it gave me bugger all time to select a car from a few (about 4 sec for 8 cars). i chose a cop car cause it had pretty colours...............
when it went to the start line i noticed it was a R34!!! woo hoo!

who know's of any arcade games where you can drive Skylines??

Battle Gear 3 is one which gives you a choice of 3 gen's of GTR's 32,33,34.

any others?

July 8, 2004

no seriously guys, this thread is from 2002....
Perhaps start a thread in NSW, training like this is super valuable and a great idea, Brendan organised the last course with Aaron McGill in November last year so it must be time for another one

ha ha ha ha... must pay attention to that date of posting time stamp thingo in the future..

nice one

July 8, 2004

I have a spluttering noise coming from my exhaust, sounds like its blowing bubbles. Its only happening when revs are dropping back to idle though, and i am in neutral. So If i rev it up a bit over 2000rpm and let the throttle go then u can hear it. I cannot notice it while driving.
Last week I did an oil and oil filter change, fuel filter change and spark plug change. All was fine till last night when i first noticed the noise. I cant imagine this having anything to do with the problem.

Can anyone give me some help as to what it might be? Not sure if its drinking more fuel yet as i have not driven far enough to notice but it almost sounds like there is liquid in the exhaust.

BTW. There has been no rain and i have not washed the car.

Damo

I used to have this problem with an older car in the days of the good ol' Carby's.. Turned out that it was running quite rich, which created the gurgling and occasional backfiring.

have you installed a after market computer recently? what type of fuel are you using? have you made any modifications to your car recently besides the standard maintenance stuff?

July 8, 2004

You should look further out west, much better lifestyle :boobies2:

You're right... If you live out west it's heaps exciting - you're always on your toes ready to dodge bullets if required... :rofl:

(puts on flame suit)

July 8, 2004

Does it do this while turning at mid-low speed?

not at all... it's only when i'm on the anchors..

July 8, 2004

Same questions as R33 Impul - also have the blades been upgraded to steel blades? how much boost has it been rated for?

July 8, 2004

[email protected]

Have a R33 GTST S2... Would love to upgrade to a GTR wing... send the piccies through! thanks..

July 7, 2004

don't mean to hijack your thread jim, but i have a similar problem except my streering wheel fully vibrates when under gentle - mid braking. under hard braking it feels fine.

very strange. no idea what is causing it either.

I've had this problem on virtually every car I've ever owned and never really gotten to the source of it. I've improved it significantly on 1 car (Commodore) by replacing the rims with new ones, but it was still never perfect.
The problem is that at a certain speed (130kph or so on my current car) the steering wobbles slightly when travelling in a straight line. I had new tyres put on about 10000km ago, but surely they don't need rebalancing this often? I would think that if it was wheel balance it would wobble at any speed, not just 130+. I also had the wheels aligned at the same time so I don't think it's alignment either. My tyre wear is fine so I don't think I could get the alignment any better if I tried.

It could still be wheel balance or alignment though, I'm not sure. Other possibilities I thought of include warped rim/rims, worn steering rack, or worn wheel bearings. The gearstick doesn't wobble at all so I've pretty much ruled out an unbalanced tail shaft.

I'm looking at replacing my tyres with better ones within a few months, I'm thinking that at that time I will also send the rims off for a repair/balance in case they need it, and also replace the bearings even though there is no free play at all. Anyone have any other ideas of what it might be?

July 7, 2004

I am definitely interested in doing this. I have already done the skidpan day, so I would be only interested in 1 and 3 - but the skidpan was hell fun, so I'm always up for some more of that action.

All,
I have mentioned a couple of times that I would look into getting something organised about improving our driving and racing. I have identified 2 possible people who could do this for us.

Peter Finlay or Ian Luff and both operate out at Oran Park.

Peter has sent me out an information pack and I will post the info when I get it.

Ian Luff has given me a list of events.

Stage 1: Smartdrive, Basic driving skills with braking, steering, emergency stopping etc.

Stage 2: Advance Car, This is done on the skid pan and involves all wet weather work.

Stage 3: Performance driving, High speed work, cornering, race lines etc.

Cost.

Stage 1: $236 Mid week, $258 Saturday

Stage 2: $247 Mid week,

Stage 3: $302 Mid week.

Packages: Stages 1 & 2 $462, Stages 1 & 3 $495

All courses are 1 Day, out at Oran Park.

If you want to get your CAM's License you need to do stages 1 & 3.

I want to know who is interested, and what you are interested in, we can book exclusive days, or take a whole day just for our selves, or get a group discount. They can tailor a course just for us maybe compress 2 days into 1.

Personally I would like to do the stage 3 course only, but I want my CAM's so I may have to do stage 1 as well.

Post up your interest and I will see what I can do with the price and or getting our selves a sole Skyline day.

July 7, 2004

Is the HKS SSQV plumpback or vent to atmosphere?
T.

Vents to atmoshpere only.

I've got one. When I had the standard intercooler and was running standard boost, I hated the sound of it. Sounded like some puncy little train whistle, or a gay guy on Oxford street checking out my ass...

after increasing the boost, it sounds a lot more aggressive and masculine... makes me feel like all 80kg of masculine rice boy.

Nah - they're pretty good but as I say, sounds fairly camp at low boost..

Giles

July 5, 2004

is Russell going to be there???

"What about the brakes Russ???...... Ahhhhh the brakes Russ.............."

June 27, 2004

I love the rolling credits at the end! classic.. !!

I've never done the 1/4 mile before (even though I am constantly telling people that I live a quarter mile at a time..... HA!).. I wouldn't feel too bad; I reckon my Mum's Ford Laser would beat me and my granny shifting.

June 27, 2004

I personally like all the sporty converts, mx-5, mg, some porshes, don't like the toyota spider. I think saabs and the astra convertible just look sh*t. Still undecided about the celica convertible

bring on the old MG-B's any day of the week. I love those cars!!!!!!!

My daily car is a Skyline. My soon to be weekend car will be a lovely British Racing green MG-B.

(drool)

June 27, 2004

I am after a GTR fuel pump for my 96' Series 2 R33 GTS-T.

Does anyone have one to sell or can provide a place that I could get one from? How much would I be looking at purchasing it for?

Has anyone had much experience of installation? Difficult, or a DIY?

Thanks

Giles

June 7, 2004

do you have any pictures of the skirts and rear bar?

June 7, 2004

I think I'm getting some pinging

I've had it street tuned, but I would like to get it done properly on a dyno.

I am after some suggestions for good places to take my car to get Dyno Tuned in NSW, and who would be the best person to do the job? I've heard some good things about Croydon, but that was only from one person. Anybody had any bad experiences from those guys?

Also, what type of power would I be looking at if I get a good tune? Would I be pushing close to 200+rwkw?

any feedback is appreciated..

June 1, 2004

the side walls and floor are perfect spots.. you can kinda see them in my avatar
<<<<<<

but if you want a picture just ask

hey man... Yeah that would be brilliant if you could send me a picture. in fact a picture would really describe what everyone has been offering me, so if any of you guys (especially the bloke who mounted the amp next to the battery) have pictures of their installs, upload them!!!

thanks!!

Giles

May 31, 2004

got a picture of the blowoff valvue?

My RB25DET is cummin out so tell me if anyone wants it? inlcudes turbo..
also for sale is,

Trust intercooler (size of a standard one but allot THICKER) $400ono

HKS sequential bov $150

SAFC (oldskool 1) $150

Remapped ECU by HKS $450ono

Series 1 frontbar $50

Series 1 spoiler $40

May 27, 2004

A cheap but worthwhile improvement is some shrouding around your pod filter, and some ducting behind the front bar to ensure that air is passing thru your IC, not around. Next i would look at some cam gears, then be happy with a very effecient, nicely setup car.
Outside of that if you want more power/driveability id be looking at a new bolt on turbo that will make use of your current exhaust and filter setup, and a new fuel pump.

Thanks man... once again though, good suggestions but can you quantify any of it? like what type of power increase I might get, the cost of purchasing things and how hard to install?

May 27, 2004

Treat me like an idiot man ... (well not literally)

So each of the below; what is the benefit of each particular modification, how much on average would it cost to replace, what's installation like? time required, difficulty etc.. (i installed all of my other stuff so i'm not too fussed about getting my hands dirty) and what kind of power increase do you think i would get?

i'm still trying to pick up about modifying cars, so i'd appreciate it if you could play teacher for this one:)

cheers dude..

Next step would be a set of HKS cams if you dont want to change the turbo! Also a bigger AFM might be a good idea as the pressure drop wouldnt be as much. Altho Im not sure how big they are on the RB25, but all I know is that the SR20 (50mm) is barely big enough for a kei class car!!

May 27, 2004

Man, I am posting like a demon today !!! (all of 2 post .. yes that is big for me..)

The question I have for everyone is a selfish need for more power.... I'm sure you can all sympathise with this..

Let me list what I have currently..

'Line R33 GTS-T '96 Series 2

Air pod

Intercooler

Full 3 inch Exhaust from turbo back

BOV (full-e sik m8)

Power FC ECU

Profec B boot controller

I'm on the market to get a new clutch and flywheel which will of course allow me to get more power at the wheels, but I am just waiting for that group buy thread start up again!!

Now I've spent a fair bit of my saved up pay packet, so now I am after power gains for as cheap as I can...

So without getting extravagant and buying a new turbo, what other modifications can I do to make more power at the wheels that wont break the budget? Is there such a thing as cheap power gains after I have done most of my stage 1 work already?

Be very interested in hearing people's experiences with modifying their cars and the budget they had to play with.

Look forward to reading!

Thanks fella's..

Giles

May 27, 2004

Thanks man.. that's exaclty the sort of suggestion i was after.

I was contemplating mounting the amp behind the scenes. That is in the backing that hides the battery, over to the right side of the boot behind that backing there seems to be a nice bit of space there that would fit an amp. The idea would be to somehow fit it there.. would involve screwing a couple of holes and bolting it down, but that way the amp would be out of sight..

is this a non-recommended practice?

I'd probably get your old crappy piece of thin board out that passes as the floor (which warps when wet), buy a bit of good MDF, trace it out cut it with the jigsaw and get yourself a nice solid floor - $15 maybe. Then can just bolt it there now worries.
The other option is to build the same for the vertical battery partition thingo - that is another common mount point. Again, get some nice MDF, cut to shape, and maybe carpet it(bunnings has cheap and reasonable carpet by the metre, grey or black). Then mount your amp vertically.

Otherwise if you want to get fancy with perspex, etc you can probably either DIY with a bit of work and knowhow, otherwise call in an expert.

May 27, 2004

Hi guys..

Pretty new to all of this audio gear in cars, so wanted some advice from you professionals

I have a 4 channel Pioneer amp in the boot of my car. It hasn't been attached to anything so it's just sitting free on the floor of my boot. Now as you can probably understand, I tend to enjoy at the odd time doing a bit of drifting (only in safe and controlled circumstances, of course!!! ) and when you have an amp in the back not attached it tends to go travelling at rapid rates in the boot... Oops!

So with that in mind, I would like to know some recommended places to mount an amp in the rear of a R33 GTS-T.

I asked an audio company to mount it for me whilst they fixed part of my stereo, but all they did was screw it into the plywood cover for the spare wheel, so that didn't do much before the screws came out..

So... what have you done in the past and what have you learnt from any mistakes in mounting amps in a safe and concealed location?

Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Giles

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