Old Gregg
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Posts posted by Old Gregg
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After sitting off the road for sometime I received my car (2001 ARX) back with a sound that fits the cam actuator problem - comes in at around 1600 rpm, up to about 2400. Starts after running for one or two minutes, marble in spray can/ clacking sound. When car was returned the oil was quite dark, run 5 /30 full synth. Oil and filter change, same full synth 5/30 oil. Sound still there after warm up.
So this fits in with all of the postings re. it being cam actuator. Also note it tends to make the noise more often if accelerator is given little blips rather just pressed.
What I am not sure about is why the sound stays no matter which of the 2 blue plugs at the front of the engine that you disconnect and disconnecting these do not cause CEL to show on dash. (Might make it very slightly quieter if the driver side is disconnected.)
Inclined to think this means cam actuator/s are still the problem and are significantly damaged?
Worth trying 10/40 oil?
Possible further damage trying to drive to a repairer?
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Have had a K&N oil filter for 18 months with no problems. Unless you put way too much oil on would not be a problem, seems to just be an easy thing to blame for other problems. Some stuff just gets repeated without direct evidence or experience. We all do it from time to time i guess.
Doesn't hurt to occasionally clean the AFM still never noticed any difference after doing so.
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My neighbour had a fire in the engine bay of a Camry the nest was built on the exhaust manifold.
My rodent nest was made from a 100mm by 100mm area of the fire wall insulation so at least it couldn't catch fire.
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Looks like the sheath on the coaxial is cut at the plug end, joining it back should be enough but re shielding it would be best (somehow). Let me know if you want the spare knock cable expressed buddy.
I didnt open the rest of the cable up enough to see it as coaxial. From what I can tell the black insulated cable is the core. The other seems to be the shield conductor but it is bundled in clear or pale coloured insulation for that last 5cm or so. For that last bit outside the flexible conduit it just looks like 2 insulated conductors, same colours at the other end. You can see a bit of the other conductor left at the plug and the cable
Thanks for the offer I will see how it goes. Only problems may be, the quality of the solder joins as was hard to get the conductors to "tin", and the tolerance of the insulation to the heat. I may have made the cable a few cm longer so that may have a impact as well. Feels like normal again driving, will see how the first tank goes.
Maybe there should be a rodent modifications topic?
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Spent an hour or three pull off bits to get down to the knock sensor in the V of the block in my ARX. Computer attached to car to diagnose why it was running very rich and had retarded timimg came back with - "faulty knock sensor". Was assured by mechanic it was definitely faulty not a loose or otherwise bad connection.
Have a look at the attachment and you will see a nest made of firewall material and chewed conductors. The mouse trap is artistic licence.
Thanks to Scott I found my way down to the problem and now know a bit more about how it is put together. Hope not to have any left over parts when it goes back together tomorrow - once I repair the cable.
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Thanks for the responses.
Symptoms. Runs OK. Significantly down on power, comes on to boost later and not as strongly. Uses about 3L per 100km more with gently driving. Runs even more ridiculously rich while warming up.
I assume is running rich and retarded. (Who does that describe?)
Mechanic had analyser attached and it showed knock sensor faulty. I asked if it could read same if just a problem with the connector. He said the software could distinguish between faulty sensor and faulty connection.
I was quite suprised that the stagea was in his device. That said, he tells me he paid a few grand for the last SW upgrade to it alone.
Will double check connections on the week end but he isn't known for BS when not sure what is going on. Sounds like I might get him to put it in so he can do the swearing and loose skin but will have a look at where it is first.
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I am after a knock sensor for my M35 ARX. New or SH. If you have a part number and advice on where to get one please post or PM. Thanks Matt.
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95 won't hurt your engine. Sometimes forced to run 95 with only minor reduction in economy if any thing. You won't notice power difference cruising on th highway imo.
While I haven't tried it have been told the ECU will also cope with 91 if stuck. You shouldn't find many places that don't atleast have 95. A lot of country Caltex have the 95 but no 98. Shell seem to have the 98 in country stations though not my fav fuel. (NSW)
Wouldn't waste money on octane booster - if you are thinking of using these, research the actual boost to octane you get for the $ - stuff all. That might change your mind.
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AFAIK white smoke = burnt oil. Maybe rings worn a little? If it's happening every time you start the car when cold, it might be worth getting an opinion from a mechanic. There could even be some products you could add to the oil to reduce wear & perhaps stop the smoke. There a Nulon one that I swear by; an 80,000km treatment which I use on all my cars,
Are you running really thin oil Josh? If so, you could experiment next oil change by using the next one up.
Have been told that the 80K nulon treatment results in hot spots as it builds up in low spots?
Just ask them what it is. A lot of guys are running 0W-30 (or something similar) which is pretty thin. Just changing to a 5W or 10W could make a lot of difference & it's still what I'd consider thin.
I had a crap V8 clunker as a teenager which I ran straight 50 in to stop it smoking
.That V8 clunker would have worn out even quicker as it had less protection at start up and until fully warmed up.
IMO "stop smoke" type additives and thicker oil are a bad idea. They might mask the symptoms but will also accelerate the wear that is causing the smoking. Keep topping up until sorted.
Is it using oil?
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hehe
same thing, different way of writing it
plus i used that equation about 5 min before i wrote that post
Glad you are doing the Chem homework I set you in class today.
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OK, its basics but in case anyone has overlooked it -
You set your pressures when the tyre is cold. when you drive the tyre gets hot and pressure increases.
Read it like this - your a dead set idiot if your tyre says max 50psi on the sidewall, and you go pump it up to 50psi when its stone cold. When it gets hot- it'll add much more pressure leading to potentially unsafe situations.
Thats why "Global Warmer" had a better experience on putty rd, when he lowered his pressures, because it wasn't causing his tyres to over pressurise when hot.
Sorry if you know all this and I have wasted your life.
Wouldn't the pressure ratings on the tyres be cold values taking into account any increase due to heat build up? ie 50psi max means 50psi max when cold.
WGNPWR - Wouldn' Charles' law be a better one to throw in there?
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what colour are they? thats normally a giveaway
Black just like pics I have seen of stockers. Maybe you could option bigger factory bars?
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Thanks - Seem to have established my rear bar at 24mm is not stock. The front one has exactly the same finish so it might not be as well. Will have a better look for some sort of labelling.
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They sound like the stock ones. From memory stock front is 30mm and rear is 24mm BUT they are hollow. So taping them nay give you the indication.
The GB ones are 32mm front and 27mm rear and both are solid so it is something like 70% stiffer than the factory ones.
Thanks. Will give tapping a try tomorrow.
Did more searching with some success for a change and found posts from 2008 where Sydneykid wrote yours was 18mm rear hollow and he replaced it with 24mm solid?
Anyone else checked what is on their ARX?
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I thought I had better check the sway bars on my ARX before giving these uprated ones further thought. Haven't found the handling the sort of rolly boat others describe and wondered if they might not be standard.
The back one is 24mm and the front 29mm (measured with rule but should be pretty close - checked with rule in front and behind the bar). Both have just the one hole each end. Does the ARX have a bigger rear sway bar standard? I had read it is only 18mm standard. The 29mm front would match the standard size.
How could you tell if the front is a stock hollow? Tap on it? Seams visible? Cut in half with hack saw? Other?
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Should be
at the end of my post 2 above this not what I put there - looks wrong. Can't edit it. -
Thanks for the clear explanation Dale.
Will now have to hurry up and decide.
Matt
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Seems that while the word "defamatory" is used in that statement put up to warn us we are to read as "no negative statements"?
Generally only a false statement could consitute defamation. So unless we post false statements, negative statements are not defamation. Maybe the conditions need to be reworded?
That said the owners of this site can't check every statement for accuracy and may be held accountable for our posts.
I wonder if the same could be said of missleading positive statements posted on the site?
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JAPLINK. Honest and good back up. Think if you live in Sydney they will give 12 Months Warranty cover themselves and have a Japanese mechanic who knows his way around these cars.
My ARX was in immaculate condition and was in way better condition than any car I have ever seen with same Ks - so no way it had a haircut.
Had a couple of probs with mine which were all looked after and they paid for the car to be transported to their shop to do repairs themselves (400km!). (Torque convertor rebuilt when failed.)
Got them to do some custom exhaust work - they found a small chip in exhaust turbine while doing the work and replaced the turbo. Could have easily just put it back together as it was not making any different sounds and going like a rocket still. Not sure everyone you deal with would have done this.
Watch out for some "barbers" that have yards nearby -have seen auction sheets showing high kms then on the yard with a short back and sides.
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Does anyone have experience of these or simmilar on rough potholed tar roads? I have an ARX with stock suspension (70k on it) and rubbish potholed roads where I live. Will these sway bar have an impact on the ability of the suspension to deal with sharp bumps and potholes?
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Who said we wont make 1000 pages with dumbarses like this on the road?
Well, as I was helping it get there I hoped not to be taken seriously.
Drove back from Southcoast to 4 hours inland 2 days ago and only had to suffer 1 tail gater and 2 morons as the road was almost empty.
The morons I refer to are those rocket surgeons who travel 10 to 20 under in the single lane bits and then 10 to 20 over when there is an overtaking lane or clear bit. They even put their brakes on when the overtaking lane ends and they have succedded in keeping you behind. Bet they have Celine Dion or Kenny G playing, not enough fibre with their breakfast, and condoms were made of pig intestine the last time they got some action (and even then it was with a sheep or goat) .
If you do risk a ticket to get past they then turn in to tailgaters.
If anyone wants to get their car written off just use the 2 roundabouts in my nearest town. Should only take a maximum of 10 goes to encounter a nanger who just drives straight through without looking. Actually they do look - to the left only or just staight ahead.
TBC
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Hi,
I have been lurking here for a while now......
I have been wanting to get a Stagea for about 7 or 8 years and I am finally about to make the move.
I am looking at M35's but after hours on this thread and others I am a bit concerned about the turbo issue.
Are they guaranteed to go about 100,000km, or is it just a few that it happens to? And would an ARX4 be worse due to the higher boost?
As far as I can tell this is this case and the repair bill can be around $2k.
If anyone could clarify it would me much appreciated.
Cheers
My turbo (NM35 ARX) was found to have chipped exhaust turbine and scoring inside the housing at 65,000km. Was still going fine and sounded normal - found while replacing dump pipe.
Kms on it seem genuine based on other wear and tear and was unmodded except joke mods like nismo badges, radiator cap and pedals.
Think there are many variables as mentioned by others that effect life expectancy including fake kms. Torque convertor failed at 65,000km under warranty which was interesting as it put the motor into a sort of limp mode.
So definitely buy through an import yard and get good extended warranty if you can.
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Yeah but you're an old fart and you live out back of bum f@*k nowhere.
NRMA want to cover the 260RS for $11000 and charge $1900
Shannons will do it for agreed value but dont even ask about the premium
Just crap want $2000 for agreed value
Living in Sydney pretty much doubles my insurance costs :-(
Old Fart maybe, I live in woop woop woop not butt fcuk, and who has leather seats, cheaper insurance and their car on the road! LOL,
That $700 includes excess free glass where claims do no effect NCB and just got a chip which will be repaired free.
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at the end of my post 2 above this not what I put there - looks wrong. Can't edit it.
Strange noise at 1500rpm. VQ25DET
in Wagoneers
Posted
There is blue connector on left and right bank at the front of the engine. Apparently they are the electrical connector for the VVT cam actuator. (These seem to be given a few different names on here.)
These two links might help. Check on the above info as I was posting on here to try to understand exactly how these behave rather than offer advice.
Good Luck.
Following discussions are some help: