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Old Gregg

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Posts posted by Old Gregg

  1. Nah, it is a Kakimoto front pipe (de-cat) as Andy said and is between the end of the dump and the start of the "cat-back".

    Also, as someone who had one on my car, I can tell you that the pic in the auction is not accurate.

    Also, from the dump pipe flange, is has about 10mm where the pipe is 76mm, then it flares out to 80mm the rest of the way.

    I had confusion!

    So photo attached, I hope, for clarity.

    Part 9 - Dump Pipe which has cat in it?

    Part 16 - Front pipe with another small cat in it?

    Part 5 - Big Cat with some pipe after it.

    Part 2 - Muffler

    So the original sale pic I put up shows a substitue for the standard front pipe with no little cat (is that a kitten?)?

    The standard system has 3 cats in it. We get rid of the first one with the custom dump and that is not real obvious to inspections?

    What do most do about the small one in the front pipe?

    "Cat back" systems replace all of Part 5 and 2 and may or may not have a cat in them?

    Have I finally got it right?

    No rude comments about how slow I is fangyou!

    post-77450-1289460405_thumb.jpg

  2. That kind of stuff is so easy for an exhaust shop to make up. for the price your better off getting it here.

    Yeah - $445 Aus delivered. And I guess the complication is it doesn't just bolt into your system like the dump at the start of this Post. So keep me on the list for one please.

    I am preparing for the install with a kitchen grater and knuckles in close proximity. Everyone has forgotten to mention goggles to keep all the crap out of your eyes but fog up so you can't see so you take them off and get crap in your eyes so you can't see. All lying on your back!

    Think leaving it to xmass time in 40 degree plus should make it more fun as well. Can't wait! :D

  3. I need to know what the minimum octane rating is for an M35 stagea.

    I'm getting a fuel card at work and have to justify using premium petrol by photo copying the workshop manual or something similar.

    Any suggestions?

    Feel free to include C34's as well. (we're a sharing bunch.. :P )

    My ARX has at least one sticker stating RON98 but I am too lazy to go out and check.

    Import work shop said the computer in them is dam smart and can cope all the way down to 91 just runs rich so you go through fuel and loose power.

    Anyone tried?

  4. yeh I thought long and hard about getting the Dolphin one too.....as Cam said it will improve the flow but it will still be limited.

    I opted to go with Scott for mine as I have a H/F and I wanted to match the intake side of the turbo to the intake pipe diameter. Scott's pipe made a pretty big difference to my car right through the range.

    P.S. For around the same money as the Dolphin one you could get a custom one made in Australia that will go all the way down to the turbo.

    It looked a bit small compared to the pics of Scott's. Thankyou for the comments gentlemen you have saved me wasting money. They are shinier though......

    Had thought one of the custom dumps when ready and improved flow to turbo would make sense as first steps and not affect warranty.

  5. There are 2 types of cops - humans and robots.

    In the bush in NSW we have the local cops -don't go out of their way to give traffic tickets unless you are asking for it or dangerous.

    Then we have the one "crunchy back" or "cockroach" highway patrol. Even the local police hate him. They last a few years and move on or are moved on. Our current one was pushed out of another nearby country town because of his antics. (I would use the term piriah except I am not sure how to spell it.)

    He goes out of his way to catch people, hit easy targets, hide near spots where it is easy to over run limit momentarily, hang around the end of road works even try to catch other police "the day after".

    Great at collecting for the government and bad PR for the other decent cops.

  6. These 225/45 R18 tyres are my only concern in this post. What can people recommend for an M35 .Its around 1750kg

    225/45 R18........ Falken FK452 is probably what I will go for when my car goes through compliance.

    Maxxis Victra MA-Z1 at the moment is my second option, but I have never used either.

    I have heard (cant confirm)different testing locations can be more strict than others. Not really keen on risking $1200 on tyres I cant use , if some inspector got out of the wrong side of the bed on the day I turn up.

    I cant get a straight answer about what I can and cant put on my car from qld transport so

    I wont take the risk of buying 235 40 18 which is what I would prefer to put on

    I have 235/50/18 P Zero Nero on my ARX. These cost an extra $110 per tyre over cheapies that were going on to comply car. This is a fairly readily available size.

    Have been very happy with ride, road noise, handling - not much to compare to though. Think can be had for around $330 each fitted etc. With all tyres watch out for date on them -Pirrelli (yes I know I can't spell pirelli) sometimes dump stale stock on special, mine ended up being 3 years old.

  7. All good mate , i wasnt bidding on it , couldnt afford it atm :)

    Iain thats actually quite good , because i was going to get that exact same ecu the first time it was auctioned and no one bought it .. for $1250 without + shipping + charges. so you ended up knocking off $125 of the original auction price.

    so all in all you did ok.

    I was just about to PM Zebra about the E manage Ultimate -stuffed around checking on availability of harness so tooo slow all yours :worship: . Maybe I should offer 50 cents more?

  8. nup......hardest part is the suction pipe atm!......I'm pretty sure headers will be a motor out job....if we ever do them!

    Was only talking about turbo back, so custom dump from here, then new front pipe, hiflo cat and new muffler will do it? And most exhaust places could fabricate?

    Actually just went out for a crawl under the thing to check what you and others were refering to - not going near the bits before the turbo.

    (If I have confusion I am sure someone will set me straight.)

    "Someone" suggested as most of the restriction was in the dump, minor "modifications" of the cat/s and replacing dump would get almost as much benefit as a new 3" exhaust? I wonder how they where going to modify it....said something about a hammer.

    Anyway put me down for one and let me know exact $ and when pls.

  9. Ask to see a copy of the original Auction sheet for the vehicle. If they won't show then it has probably had odometer reset to show lower Km's after auction by an agent in Japan (apparently there is at least one yard in Sydney organising this). If you have any contacts in the import industry they may be able to get online access to auction info about the vehicle - not sure on the time frame of how long that info is available. Of course this won't help if it was reset before auction.

    Sometimes the seller doesn't even know all the options on the vehicle - get the vin put through FAST to find out whats in it.

    On a test drive try braking strongly on a downhill at speed - will probably shudder from out of round, soft front rotors - expect to have to replace these I think but might make a good barganing point if this happens with a sales person in the car! Look shocked!

    Have a look at the body at different times of day as different light conditions show up different paint / body / trim defects.

    (If you want to go overboard wash it for them you get to see all the cosmetic defects washing a car :( )

    Get a drive at highway speed or greater and notice any vibrations or shudders.

    Turbo sort of whistles or whines normally - think it sort of tinkles or grinds if probs. (Experienced owners - could you give the accelerated a blip - turn it straight off and expect to hear turbo spin on with these bearing turbos - or is that not what I hear when I did this?)

    Wear on drivers seat will give best idea of Kms - compare to Aust car with leather in another yard and compare wear to kms - assume Aust car will be real kms?

    Leather colour on seats wears off surface like it does on shoes could look for these sort of grey areas or touch up.

    Good luck you will love an ARX.

  10. no series 1 M35 has dual zone climate control dude. series 2 i cant comment.

    HICAS was an option on RS and AXIS (i think), always fitted to ARX and was not an option on RX. Same as LSD AFAIK.

    Have a 2002 ARX - thats Series 1 isn't it? Has dual zone climate control and the works. Only missed out on the cruise control - as my son said when he handed back the keys - good luck keeping your licence without it! (Do a fair bit of hwy driving)

    re Dealers - Check japlinkmotors.com.au

  11. however do notice a vibration around the 90-100 mark but thats most likely wheel alignment/ balancing

    Have slight vibration 100kmh and up, still there at considerably faster, doesn't go away at higher speeds as some do. You can't feel it through the steering wheel. In fact only really notice it if travelling on my own as it makes the front passenger seat shake. You can look across and see it shake and feel it in the seat base.

    Had wheel alignment and got wheel balance redone - 2 wheels were out even though no weights had come off, this didn't fix the problem. Up on hoist and checked, nothing obvious.

    Guess as you can't feel it in the steering wheel means it is coming from rear or the driveline as well? Could it be some play in HICAS?

    Related to this - had one corner of the plastic sump guard break away on a recent trip and that rattled a fair bit driving and sat back like it wasn't broken when I stopped to check - duct tape to the rescue!

  12. Supercheap auto dont have any catalogues to tell me which oil filter will fit a

    2002 M35 stagea Axis auto.

    They only information they have is for a C34.

    I would prefer to get the type where there is a nut that sits on top to help you remove the

    oil filter.

    can somone supply model numbers and prefered brands for what I am seeking please?

    K&N HP1008 has nut on the end - might be cheaper to get a decent oil wrench?

    Anyone else notice they are fairly tight coming off even if seal is smeared with oil and not overtightened?

    (Following link just for the pic in it of the K&N innards - if a real one.)

    https://cars2.ebay.com.au/K-N-OIL-FILTER-HP...emZ370406195130

  13. So far on the thread there are comments on oil use in turbo and NA motors, all VQ; but with different issues regarding ideal oil.

    M35 stageas have ball bearing turbos - change more often, more sensitive to dirty oil - 5w30 factory recomended, probably to help fuel economy figures and generally agreed to give high oil consumption. Most use oil with 10w40 or 15w40.

    Regarding mineral, semi-synthetic, synthetic - going to full synthetic from semi or mineral is suposed to be a no no as can clean off deposits and lead to increased oil use in older engines.

    ATM Using Penrite HPR 10w50 in 2002 NM35 ARX, using just under 10L/100km on highway (real km not speedo,corrected with GPS as speedo out 7%) just over 14L/100km short trips and city. Seems to be performing well on this and has used none after 2,000km. Unless I use this for the next 20,000km can't really comment on engine protection and that is what we are after isn't it?

    Best oil for the VQ NA motors - well who cares - they are NA. No really they are great motors, getting my wife a GT 350. :ermm:

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