Nanogrip
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Posts posted by Nanogrip
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Is it necessary to hook the trigger to the capacitor? Maybe that is what is causing the problems. Might be ghetto but perhaps you can set up switches to the trigger line until you can get a better and working head unit.
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Damn, aren't Focals expensive top end car audio stuff? Those would be a steal if still in good condition. I am fine with my setup as is, so good luck with your sale
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Thermostat might be kaput, not opening when it should. Try running with heater turned on to see if it helps a bit. I would change the thermostat and replace all the rad fluid.
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You could probably replace the thin floorboard into a much thicker one, then use bolted down heavy duty straps to hold your sub+enclosure+amp in place, it will never move. And you can still access your spare wheel in case of an emergency (pssst, or carry one or more of those fix-a-flat cans) That is what I would do anyway.
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Turn key to Acc. (accessories) or start car. Then cigarette lighter will work.
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http://www.caranddri...v12_evo_page_10
Best tyre for the money cheap tyre. Long-life tread wear too.
edited...
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The light stalk on the steering column probably needs cleaning..? See if you can disassemble the unit, inspect, and if needed, spray with an elec. cleaner spray (watch out for drips and overspray!). Also maybe there is a short somewhere.
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Didn't know about the silicon hoses. Hmmm, I learn something everyday here on SAU
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Hey nice kane84
. Now it is just the wiper intermittent thing. So the wire was cut for the injectors in the main loom? -
Could it be stored alongside other fuses and relays in the fuse box under the bonnet? I'm at work (tee hee) so I can't open to verify now, and sadly, I have no internet at home so I cannot check it from there.
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Yeah my car's syncros are slightly spunked. I have searched and searched in Google (but not here in SAU, pardon if I should but didn't) but is there a gearbox from a different vehicle that can bolt it on without or slight modification? No one in this island has the expertize to re-fresh a gearbox and I'm afraid that my only options are to purchase a re-freshed one from the outside or do it myself.
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The plastic button itself is a clip, so you could use a metal machine screw with a similar sized dome head, circumference and height wise, washer and nut, combined to make a relatively indestructible replacement. Ah but then the plastic button lasted more than a decade so there is probably no point in it (but a good idea nonetheless).
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Hey no problem, sorry that the problem wasn't fixed but we'll get the answers soon
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I wish I can inspect the car myself as this is a good puzzle, but I can't be more helpful than posting suggestions. I think what you can for now is gather some friends over and troubleshoot the problem. Good luck and keep us informed on your progress.
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:worship:Very very very nice!
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According to performance parts websites, they are different (with different part numbers) so that would tell me they are different. But perhaps wait for more people to respond to your query.
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Can you provide a photo of the said orange warning light in the gauge cluster? Perhaps it is the ABS light..?
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This is for a Nissan Pathfinder/Terrano but it might be applicable to R33's (I am not going to contort myself to check on my car lol), but there are two plastic buttons or caps attached to the brake pedal metal arm or bracket next to the metal arm, I can't exactly remember. But sometimes those plastic buttons fall off or become worn out so you will have a constant brake light. Or it could be the brake light switch which is near where the plastic buttons are. Easy problem I think.
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I am not sure, but also turning on the heater will help flow out additional air locks..?
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Plain old WD40 is fine for electrical connections, as well as silicon spray, I go for whatever is cheaper. I haven't really gotten into the fuse boxes in my car yet so I cannot say for sure what those labels corresponds to (no electrical problems...................yet). But you can pull out each fuse and visually inspect for an open fuse or have a probe tester to check the conductivity of the fuses. I think it is a simple problem but let us know of your progress.
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I think I know what the problem is now. The injector(s) - (neg) is connected/shorted to the - (neg) of the wiper. That is why the car dies when the wipers are turned on and also won't start when you unplug the wiper motor connector.
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Hmmm, would it be possible to provide some photos of the wiring? Also perhaps it is best to continue trouble shooting with a tester and consult with a wiring diagram. And although it appears to be a very strange thing going on with your car, it doesn't appear to be a difficult problem, time consuming maybe. Good thing it is the weekend, more time to dive into the car.
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I would spray very lightly on the whole clip on the wires connecting to the gauge set (not the back of the gauge set itself), and thus into the metal pins. Sometimes corrosion builds on the plugs and when we unplug the clip, creates an oxide insulator. Spraying also lubes things up so you can insert better, smoother, have moisture resistance, anti-corrosion, etc.
The fuse for windows are here:
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/207464-r33-series-1-fuse-box-layout-rb25det/
If fuse are still good, then maybe relay switch is the problem. Or wiring, or power window motor, or could be as simple as the switch being kaputting kulprit.
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F1 type digital gauges
Infrared camera and windshield HUD/monitor (for avoiding idiots on the road wearing dark clothing, running from the police, ex, family, etc.)
Alcantra everywhere
Cylinder deactivation (save fuel)
HID
6 gears
I think that is about it for now.
Best Looking Wheels On An R33 Gtst
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
Rays-Volk Racing TE37 are dead sexy, especially in dark variants.