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[ant]

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Posts posted by [ant]

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    haha yeh just block that relief valve up .. its just a safety thing .. my car has an adjustable trust relief valve so u can set that to bleed ur boost if it overboosts at some other point but i just screwed mine super tight. :)

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    there some program i had somewhere that could work out ur speed from ur diff ratio & wat RPM you are doing at 100km/h.

    thats how i worked out the 248 for the S13. mite need to try and track that down to work it out =)

    Cusco strut bar problem.

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    hm it looks close but its probably meant to be like that ... this r32 has a cusco brace, different design to yours but looks similarly close to the plenum:

    http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=2331

    i think its just like that hey with RB20's. but then if u drive round and it rubs on it then obviously its no good. might need to get an engine damper too to help keep the engine nice and still so it doesnt jump around too much if ur on/off throttle alot drifting or watever.

    HR/DR30 Tokico shocks

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    yeah shocks seem to be a bit of bitch to find ... my car came with damper adjustable KYB shocks front and rear however 1 of the rears was dead. so i tried to find replacements of the same type (KYB Damper Adjustables) but they didnt do them for the 30. so i had to make do with some Koni Red's which are rebound adjustable only, mainly for as they wear out u can tighten the rebound i think :) but i turned mine a couple of timesn eway before putting them in and they seem fine after about 5 months still.

    come to think of it arent R30 rear shocks the same as S13 ? so you could buy KYB Damper adjustables to suit S13 and put them in? never thought about that at the time.

    koni;s were 500 a pair i think for the rears, special order n all :) but yeh theyre quite solid still so cant complain really !

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    i went 248 on the freeway in my S13 ... but its how quickly u get up there that gives the thrills! and how much wheelspin haha

    hmm the lights thing does maybe sound like an earth problem or something not properly connected since theyre coming on so the circuit must be getting power, but just not lighting up properly when depressing the pedal. check all the connections into the lights like has been suggested then if that fails try and trace the earth cable.

    tho an auto ellecy would probably be fairly speedy at tracking down a problem such as that i would imagine since its fairly clear what the symptom is and there cant be *too* many possible causes !

    i saw a picture on Yahoo! Auctions Japan for a DR30 for sale which had the rear windscreen wiper removed .. looked pretty smooth so i thought hell ill do that to mine just see if i like it for a day or something coz i never use it anyway even in rain haha so i took the nut and wiper off and drove round and wallah, lost the black dust cover thing that goes over the bottom part of it lol ****. im too much of a fidget for my own good sometimes. o well :) wiper stays off now :) the thread stickin out does look a bit wierd from up close but from a distance it looks quite cool without the wiper .. smoother and more symettrical (apart from huge exhaust and badges haha)

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    hahah theres always one! yeh ill probably get 240 rwhp and go to hell with this mild upgrade i want shitloads more haha

    but .. now i think i got a new woman in my life now ... which means car savings take a hammering ... tonite i spent about $50 on dinner and movie and here i was planning not to spend a cent this weekend. crap haha

    boof - hm cheers for that, i dunno if theyve put a V3 on an FJ before i guess they would have being main WA Wolf dealer but ill query them about that too. wanna make sure i have all costs covered before i go in to get it done! e.g. maybe dizzy mod, install, tune, install and mounting of seperate coils, making a pipe for mounting pod on once AFM is removed, making plates to cover the AAC/IAC valves which they block i think wen doing ecu swap (they did on DR30RS car neway with his V4..) :D all the little extra things add up! haha

    Mad questions about setting up my r32.

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    yep damper is the depression rating of the shock. so just basically how hard or soft you want it! adjustable front units usualy have a little thing on the top which u turn from like 1-5 from softest to hardest.

    rear units usually have a small knob about 3/4 way down the shock absorber shaft, so u just have to reach under the car and turn that one in the same way to set up rear damper.

    an yeh, no worries for the info dude =]

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    0HR30T - yeh its not realy the best way to go but it should only be temporary i think ... call me a bitch but seeing DR30RS 350+RWHP DR on the weekend im considering a mild turbo upgrade to ~300rwhp (or watever the most i can get from the GTR injectors i guess) so i can gradually get used to more power rather than jumping by like 100+rwhp and internal work etc in one go! haha

    and at 300rwhp, ill have plenty of fun power enough to justify opening my wallet for more cosmetic things such as forking out the ~3000$ to fix all my paintwork rust areas and dings n dents n rubbers an loose plastics ...! just go crazy and fix it right up.

    but yeh hopefuly GTR injectors will hold. il just keep checking clamps as you say!

    boj - ur car will be nice when its done hey! suppose u plan on keeping it awhile then? im thinking ill try and get a job with a company car so i can retire the dr from road duties and keep it for ages haha

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    0HR30T - with the 34 GTR injectors apparently just stick em in and clamp em up tight and she'll be right! haha

    yas - you can do intercooler, exhaust, boost controller, and clutch all in any order. but you cant turn the boost up (with boost controller) till you have done exhaust and intercooler. you can pretty much do intercooler or exhaust either way around. most pple do exhaust first, but thats becuase nearly all turbo cars nowadays have a standard intercooler already so at least they have one! u could do cooler or exhaust either way round. and without the boost controller, you cant make use of the exhaust and intercooler allowing u more boost!!

    and the clutch, well u can do that any time but the more power u make the more strain on it basically so itll just start to wear out faster as u get more torque and power.

    so u can do things in any order really at first. then you get to where i am, and u need to do Engine Management system & injectors. then u max out your stock turbo, so u need to go bigger ... then cams .. etc !

    rsx84 (n whoever else hehe) - just chucked both 17s i have atm on the front. i found the sticker on my Watanabes too, theyre 15x6.5 +34 offset. and they scrub on the steering arms (not castor rods :)) at absolute maximum lock. i put the 17x7 +36 on the front and they have like 1 little finger gap between the top of the tyre and the spring perch, and about the same from inside tyre wall to strut tower!! clooooose! but they fit.

    and i gave them full lock then marked on my body with metal polish the angle of them, and then put Watanabes back on and turned them to full lock & .... exactly the same! so its all sweet :) so provided ur right about the rears fitting them shes all good! gona get the centres of them painted black and the rims polished right up... in a couple of months... :P

    ecu first *nods* =]

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    hmmm but i cant really put spacers on with stock studs can i? bit risky.

    i have my 17s now im gona go chuck em on and turn the wheels.

    thing is my Watanabes already rub on full lock at the front, so i already on use 4/5 of the possible lock ... but they rub on the castor rods with the inside tyre wall. dunno wat the deal is there , but yeh if they rub at full lock then ill just still have my smaller lock which i can live with. cheers for the reply =) il go check now.

    went to see DR30RS car down at Barbagello Raceway today. bloody moves down the straights. by eye, id say there wasnt much there that woulda had it today straight line! but taily out of high speed bends tho even with semi slicks on the back!

    but mmmm FJ20 with GT30 and ext gate at full noise down the front straight .. by far the best sounding car out there :) *gets inspired* haha

    Mad questions about setting up my r32.

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    well the coilovers are good since they have height, damper and camber settings in one. however if you are getting the whiteline stuff you will be able to acheive all the adjustability anyway just through the parts that they provide i would say. im not too sure of the specifics of the kits, but you can choose damper adjustable shock absorbers, and then have adjustable camber tops fitted which will allow you to adjust not only camber (like jap units) but also castor aswell as the top mount can be moved around the entire inside area of your strut tower. so these tops will provide more adjustment than a jap coilover.

    the only real thing you will lose out on is the height adjustment as you will have normal shocks with spring on a perch on the shock. other than that your whiteline kit will work out overall more adjustable than jap coilovers.

    pple tend to get jap coilovers as theyre cheap and can lower the car alot, and are adjustable enough to get reasonable results without having to get other bits. (but if you get the whiteline works kit you will probably already get all the extra adjustable parts anyway).

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    hm mite have some 17x8 rims i can buy ... but that means ill need to put the 17x7 +36 onto the front, and 17x8 +32 on the rear.... will they fitttt *Stresses* haha will find out next week neway, the 17x7 +36 fit the front im pretty sure coz i tried 1 before, but ill try again 2moro, then test fit the 17x8 on the back before i buy them next tues or wed :D

    hey and the pictures thing is updated actualy says i have 9 pictures now, sik haha =]

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    OHR30T - i dont know jack about injectors i just went with what the joint said where ill be getting the work done, they said get GTR injectors and theyre piss easy to fit so i got some on the way ! so i dunno wtf theyll do chances are they gave me bad advice and i have to fork out more money again. such is life haha

    Doctor 30 - i only earn $200 a week doing nightfill, but i live at home with no expenses whatsoever and no board, so i try to put about 100-150 a week away (depending on how much alcohol is needed each weekend haha). all into the car!

    Boof - the wolf im getting is not a V4 its a V3. apparently wolf's all work well with the dizzy on the FJ ive heard. something to do with using it as the CAS or something? dunno but ive heard its not a drama on FJ with the Wolfs, quite the opposite even.

    DR30RS - haha should be good fun out there in ur car tomorow. thats with the WASCC guys hey? my dads mate at work is in that, keeps telling me to come down and have a look, i was thinking of coming down tomorow just to see what goes on and details of how to join for next season. wouldnt mind having a look at ur car and things too or even a hot lap but that might be pushing it ;D what time does it begin and end? dunno if ill make it but i want to eventualy :)

    Mad questions about setting up my r32.

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    well, a tuned ROM is a good option. they solder a chip onto ur stock computer which allows them to burn a new map onto the chip on ur ecu.

    this is really all ull need if ur not planning to constantly play with it. u can even do it so that u have several maps and change between them with a switch even on a tuned ROM. however yes if u have one simple map u want to use u can just use that one.

    otherwise when choosing between the other 2 PFC and Greddy, check which has the best local support and a tuner who you trust/other trust, then compare features and see which you think you'll need. PFC just seem good coz theres alot of local support for them.

    if u want to do track work and drift you probably should upgrade to an aftermarket LSD. however stock viscous are crap, so u want a mechanical. it is reasonabley easy to get replacement mechanical centres for GTS-T diffs. however, mechanicals are usualy quite noisy and clunky especialy 2nd hand ones, so maybe irritating for daily use. but will be much more reliable on a track/drift/serious situation. will go 2 wheel all the time for a long time!

    hi flow turbos seem to be notoriously laggy in general it seems? anyway, hi flows are always a bit of an unknown. turbos such as been mentioned already, 2530, 2535 an 2540 all are good for torque/response and still making pretty good power figures too. those turbos are rated from about 300-340rwhp or so respectively.

    cams cant hurt, and will depending on wat specs they are and things, help spool the turbo up even faster which will help torque too. however a bit of lag is sometimes good to avoid too much wheelspin if boost kicks in angrily.

    depending how u go, u may need upgraded injectors but u can see that on a dyno. fuel consumption will depend on ur right foot pretty much! even with bigger injectors and turbo and cams, if u dont plant it it wont be boosting and it will be fairly good on fuel. but if u go to a track day or the like expect fuel to go down fairly quick. but to make power u need fuel so its a bit like that!

    finally suspension wise id say your probably on the right track goign the whiteline package. this is mroe suited to australian road conditions and also track conditions. coilover suspension from japan is shock and spring unit in one, height adjustable and usually damper and camber adjustable too. however, generally too stiff and higher spring rates than is best for australia.

    id say talk to the whiteline guys about your expectations from your car handling wise and see wat tehy say about extra options. probably best to go for the whiteline package and dsee how it is, take it to a track day etc, then see if u feel it is lacking somehow and ask them what to do about it.

    as for the HICAS, it gets a big thumbs down across the board in every respect but low speed driving round bends and in carparks! i would say lock this regardless. it just adds unwanted interference when pushing the car hard. LSD or not, HICAS is a hinderance more than a help especially on a track.

    oh and finally an FMIC is always a good investment, even if you just get a slightly larger one, or try and front-mount the one you have cheaply using some piping, bit that may be wasted effort.

    FMIC will be a good idea for track work on hot days. and in addition, though it doesnt add a great deal of overal power, it definately will add a fairly large amount of mid range torque. so it may be a good investment for you. especially if you are going a bigger turbo like a 2540 or watever, which will benefit from the lower inlet temperatures. r32 intercooler kits arent too hard to get so may be worth the money. maybe moreso than an aftermarket LSD, unless your standard one is playing up (1 wheeling) straight away.

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    0HR30T - yeh the prick of a thing is i sorta need shit done ASAP, and all the RX7 injectors are old an im not too sure about them so id want em serviced n stuff and i just dont have the cash for that mess around. ive got some R34 GTR injectors on their way today (fri) via COD. theyre sorta like smack in the middle of where i need lol like theyre enough to take my stock turbo to its maximum, but theyre not big enough to support the size of turbo that ill will be upgrading it to :rofl: on a 4cyl theyre meant to suport around 350hp, which i guess is flywheel hp, so 300 or so rears. so theyll be okay for a while. coz ill probably go forged pistons n stuff before big turbo anyway so big $$ there ;)

    yas - haha so u definately do want the cooler an shit? one of my mates has suddenly sprung out of the woodwork and says he wants it too but i told him i said another guy was having it already. so ill tell him its as good as sold i spose if ur still keen for it?

    and yeh, mod order list pretty much goes

    full exhaust, 3", no catalytic converter

    bigger fuel pump

    bigger intercooler

    boost controller

    upgraded clutch

    aftermarket ECU+ bigger Injectors

    bigger Turbo

    and depending how big the turbo is, then u need Forged Pistons and o-ring block

    then also depending on how laggy the turbo is, then aftermarket Camshafts

    !

    thas about it haha just depends how big u go with turbo as to how much internal work u need and wat cams and injectors n stuff :)

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    0HR-30T - yeh im hopin more like 240 or so rwhp wen i get a tuneable ECU and get it going properly. that was at 1bar boost today but like i say it basically hits 1bar at around about 3800-4000rpm, so it wasnt really using 1bar it was just getting to it then hitting the wall soon as it tried to hold that boost pressure!

    trying to source RX7 or GTR injectors now, and then deciding between either a Wolf3d V3, or Microtech LTX8 ECU.

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    well, disappointing effort by the ole DR30 on the dyno today :D

    got 200rwhp but running HELL rich down low then HELL lean up top, from about 4000rpm upwards so it was a bit of a dud run. the 200rwhp was gotten at about 130km/h in 4th and just called it quits before damaging things ! was so lean it was just retarding everything really.

    pulled the Malpassi rising rate out as it was running so rich down low & at cruise that itl be diltuing oil and washing the bores out :wave: but it still runs very rich at idle and on cruise even with stock regulator back on so i dunno if it even helps !

    theory is the AFM is just getting hammered and maxed out as it hits full boost around 3700rpm or so and then maxes at 4 and upwards. soooo time for new ECU ASAP :wave: need my tax return quick haha

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    thats cool. 2 way stock hey thats some hardcore drift action straight out of the factory haha :) have to look into rebuilding mine some time then. sweet. =]

    rsx84 - yahoo japan has cars for auction. im not sure of exact address however if you search with Google and put Yahoo Auctions, im pretty sure the first or 2nd result on the list is Yahoo Japan auctions. it has a search box in the top left, and you just enter whatever into there. and it brings your results up. i was looking thru it at dr30's the other day :rofl: all in japanese though :cheers:

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    ive heard DR30's have a mechanical LSD standard? is this true? mine sorta feels abit like that but its quite worn out and goes 1 wheel alot so it needs a rebuild ... but if its already mechanical i can just get my current diff rebuilt wen i find the money.

    anyone shed some light on if it is definately mechanical or viscous type? and im guessing it'd be 1.5way LSD correct?

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    doesnt work like that ... depends on many other factors mainly effeciency range of the turbo and the heat generated by the turbo.

    basically after a certain point (for ur turbo, 250hp flywheel) more boost simply overspins the turbo and generates heat. thus the inlet air is just too hot and no more power is made. this happens alot on stock turbos.

    14.5 is pretty much 1bar isnt it. thats probably as much as you'd want to put through that turbo before u blow it haha and even if u ran about 13-13.5psi itd probably make very much the same power but with less stress on the turbo.

    the rating for the turbo such as 250hp for ur rb20 one is the maximum power that the turbo can support when at maximum efficiency. ur probably right on that with 1bar boost, if not a touch over coz it is ceramic wheel and doesnt like too much boost/heat.

    r30 skylines

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    the FJ computer is crap tho ! i want rid of it ASAP and so does everyone else! haha

    im glad im stil FJ powered gota keep the originals going!

    my car got ~220 rwhp getin it dynoed thurs, but yeh its reasonabley powerful, and as far as fuel economy goes its pretty bloody good despite running very rich. im not too sure of the exact economy i dont ever work it out, but i once did about 250km in a day when wearing in my clutch (thus not revving it much either so say 3.5-4k rpm max) and i used about 1/3.5 of a tank. 1 tank is 50l or so, so 1/3.5 is ~17l say, and 250/17 = 14.7, so if i take it easy thats some sweet economy.

    but then if i plant it, and rev to ~6300rpm 2nd 3rd and rev 4th to say 4.5k (run outa road n shit around then :cheers:) i can almost watch my fuel gauge needle go down 1mm! i think the Malpassi regulator does that shoving fuel in =) all good, Jap-rich style billowing black smoke top end haha rather that than lean :)

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