[ant]

buy coilovers and wind em down down down easy. might have to trim your bump stops so it doesnt bounce everywhere though heh

damn you robocop you just beat me to it haha im subscriber though so mine should be at home waiting for me

subscribers get it a week or 2 early ...

i think its a weight distribution thing ... nice 50/50 front to rear with SR in R32

its a 32 with an SR20DET in it and V-mounted intercooler etc etc etc bit rough but lots of good mods. its for sale on SilviaWA for 11.3k or something, or 14.5k once the guy has complied and registered it. he got it through prestige motorsport. its under the thread 'EOI:R32 Skyline GTS-T' or something like that.

i love my DR but i have only found like 2 people out of like 100 'car enthusiasts' that i talk to that actually know what an R30 is let alone DR30 (iron mask). im not even the full bottle on all the different models myself but it gets annoying explaining to everyone its a 30. i persoanlly dont like 31s that much so im adament with people that its a 30 not a 31 haha get sick of those people that go 'oh yeh i raced one of these the other day, wast bad pretty slow though' and im like ah yeh cool when i know every DR30 in perth and theres only about 3 that regularly see the road and one of them was mine before it broke and i never raced anyone coz it was never running properly! so these people are going round racing n/a 31's thiking theyre racing DR30s. but thats okay, once i get mine fixed with cage and big top mount turbo ill be able to give them a nice surprise

yeh you need intrusion bars now which adds a bit, then just belts, fluids, fuel restrictor .. normal stuff .. but be around 1500. but yeh u can import cars that are younger than 15 if for race use only but then you need a certain level of CAMS licence so you may not be able to do that but otherwise just bring in a really highly modded 15 year old car with cage and stripped interior, stuff like fuel cell and battery moved into the car for weight distribution improvements etc for like 10k$ and then dont bother rego'ing it at all and you can have alot more fun and probably be more competitive, plus save some hassles here. getting a very modded cheap GTR might end up being expensive if things break so probably a 32 or something would be a bit simpler...

hey people, my DR needs a rebuild as it has done the rings in first cylinder and done some damage to the bore too by the looks of the gunk in there. ive had offers to buy my broken car, but since ive got R34 Injectors, a HKS T04E, Cast Mani & Ext Gate, brand new Microtech LTX10S with sep coils, and a moly half cage all waiting to go in the car i think ill stick to it and rebuild it, but it wont be done till this time next year by the looks just curious what parts you people used if you have done rebuilds and how much it ended up costing you to get done? cheers

hm i like to do this one day coz i hate the huge gap between tyre and guard at the front haha wonder if s13 coilovers up front would bring it down more.. haha

hm i dunno how i define muscle car but i dont think the DR would fit that bill for me, although, as far as jap cars go, it could sorta be up there coz arent other muscle cars also based on boring chassis and share bits with the boring versions? although id probably call the DR a sports car (hence my vote) since its effectively an up-specced sporty version of the normal skylines really. plus its a bit less soft edged to be a muscle car anyway with electrics weight isnt as much as 'real' GT cars .. they only wiegh about 100kg more than s13s which are known to be pretty light and throwable...theyre a cheapo sports car i say but still sports car. plus DR30's dont have GT badges they have RS badges! GT is grand tourer, dunno what RS stands for but ill assume some race sports or something along those lines ... nissan didnt designate it as a GT so its not one of them i wouldnt say !

15 yr rule will prolly change soon so i recjon u can breathe easy

probably didnt get tint so that people can see inside and see the retrim/dash spray shit. its over the top but different somehow doesnt look too bad all curvey on a silvia, which is an acheivement.,., full comp is handy especially on that car, coz ull get some arsehole keying it, or trying to steal the wheels, or some person at uni/shops etc will open the door onto your car and ull be getting shit fixed all the time to keep the paint perfect, and with different pearls in it it'll be expensive full panel spray every time and probably still never match up best to get a shitty sort of one for now and just use any extra money you may save to buy some coilovers, exhaust, and lsd to begin with and learn to drive it and then step up to a turbo one . but again that car there would be no fun even as a turbo its more of a 'bring out on weekends and for shows and dont leave it unattended' sort of show car than a real drivers car bit gay to do all that to a non turbo in the first place though ive gotta say .. youd think he wouldve wanted turbo if only for the bov to go 'ptshhh'

yeah its big upgrades when you go big turbo. probably need to splash out on forged pistons and o-ring block and stuff too when you do that. but my ecu is already cactus with the hybrid cooler so i thought what the hell and got the turbo before someone else bought it! and then ill get ecu next and get it all in in one shot. saves some time and hassles later on. up for sale already hey? i thought u just got it all retrimmed and nice? haha mine already owes me 7k, and thats before ~2k of turbo install and ECU .... and then it has around 3k worth of bodywork/rust to fix before next winter comes around .. you could give me a reliant robin (the 3 wheel car from Mr Bean) and id still spend thousans trying to modify it though .. cant help myself haha

thats a pretty good buy hey! wierd but good turbo too .. thats off like 911 GT2 porsches and Audi RS's and what not .. very euro turbo for the DR i didnt think they would make that much power tho? 400-450 my turbo came today i just collected it. all looks good. wastegate screamer pipe is rusted thru at the base of it but its only a thin bit of pipe neway, plus il have to ditch it the get a pipe made that goes into the new dump pipe. dunno if the turbo will make 400ps as it is atm though only has 0.4 a/r

most of u lads have coilovers though so its just a simple matter of winding them up to get the best mix between looks/handling/scrape ! haha easy fixed exhausts always like to scrape since theyre the lowest point, sortof inevitable really

but if your in traffic your not going to be 5000rpm in 5th?? and in addition, if its 42 degrees, or just a generally hot ambient temperature day, you will probably take it easy or turn your boost down anyway .. sounds very dodgey to me the general across the board thing is big bloody fan (to simulate the airspeed into your intercooler while you would be travelling along at 5000rpm!) and 4th gear as it is the 1:1 ratio as is mentioned thus its direct power to the ground through the diff. altho it will hit the limiter sometimes if you still have you, chances are your power curve will have started to drop by then anyway so it dun matter too much. id say thanks to that guy for the help and go elsewhere that has a DynoDynamics Dyno which are the general across the board comparative dynos in australia now with the Shootout mode, and even not in shootout theyre very close now. so go somewhere else with a fan for $50 power run and see what you get in 4th gear. thatd be more comparative to other pple i would assume !

dont think it has manifold? plus it has lots of useless shit with it that option 1 kit like cooler piping to fit a little stock type front mount, and you can see it retains the Vane style AFM and has a replacement ROM. guess it works but id end up chucking out most of the crap anyway, piping ecu etc coz its all not that good for performance really. but yeh i havent got the picture open atm but im pretty sure it doesnt have either manifold or wastegate, im sure it had something missing from it? *shrug* does look in good condition though

YO880 - the kit cost me 1450 from ImportBitz incl delivery to perth. was 1250 before but they had hassles with importing and shipping etc before they got the turbo in so price went up a bit as a result from a couple of months ago (talked to another guy who was gonna buy it at lower price but it never arrived!). Adam_RSX - i was just gonna get it coz i dont carry pple in the back anyway maybe once in a blue moon so i wasnt worried about losing the rear seat space, and i thought the cage would actually help if i ever did crash. why wont it, too soft? or will rip out coz its not gonna be welded in? and the main advantage i thought itd give would be to stiffen the chassis up a fair bit, since its pillarless and all. so i figured its basically like buying a rear strut brace but only costs 100$ plus is probably a fair bit stiffer i was gonna get it properly installed and fully padded up with that foam stuff so as to make it legal, and id like to think that the padding on there would stop me cracking my skull? in any case my nardi wheel will crack my skull too in a crash

bodykit looks custom style thing too me, definately not veilside and doesnt look like vertex either. paint is just a really nice metallic blue of some description like a candy metallic blue by the looks. and bonnet has silver paint with big metallic glitter stuff in it. CerealKiller - dunno why you call the paintjob crap, looks great in my opinion =] though i would prefer carbon fibre bonnet, no stickers, and a more simple Vertex kit

well, im trying to be good and start new threads so ive made this one just saying i ordered that T04E Kit from ImportBitz, with hks t04e, hks high mount cast manifold & hks external wastegate. looks okay, bit rusty but im gona get compressor cover & exhaust housing shield re-polished and get manifold and maybe wastegate etc all repainted in some black engine paint or something to make it look neater. just put deposit on it this week. but that means a couple of months to pay it off then gotta get an ECU sorted too so will be christmas time before im ready to get the whole lot all put in and set-up in one go. should be good though =] mite need to sell my GTR injectors and go straight to rx7 ones for the power the t04 will make. also got an alloy 6 point cage for $100 that im gonna repaint black and pad up and bolt in around the end of the year too (not yet coz ive a few other things to tidy up/sort out before i can take it over pits, which itll need to be reregistered as a 2 seater with the cage bolted in). but yeh, my car should be nice and jap by the end of the year with half stripped interior, cage, and high mount hks T04 =) sorry if noone cares but felt like updatin plus didnt wana make the old thread any longer ! thats the only problem i guess .. i tend to just give litle updates or answer other peoples little queries here and there so i dont think thats worthy of seperate threads ... otherwise therell be too many little threads with like 3-4 replies only and nowhere to go! but it would be good if some1 with a faster connection could go through and re-group the rest of the R30 thread into topics and delete things that aernt important !!

yas - yeh that exhuast quote i said was for mild steel system with stainless steel muffler .. pretty much everyone does that unless u want wanky stainless all the way thru which ends up like doubling the price of the system! ive heard it can also crack. 600 or so would be for mild steel turbo back system. u can also get ur Catalytic Converter removed and dont need to replace with one coz ur car is post-86 so u dont need the Cat. then ur choice of muffler for ~250-300 depending where u get it and wat brand etc. !

Yas - like i say mufflers are round about 250-300. as far as where to go to get the rest done, lots of people speak highly of QuikFit in Morley. I know this may be a long way from you, but the guys there are supposed to be the best, so dont just got to another QuikFit near you coz they wont be as good so ive heard!! teheyre pretty cheap too. maybe be around 600 or so for the rest of the system. get your exhaust done and then buy a bleed valve and bigger fuel pump and set boost to around 12psi and ur car should go good! need a boost gauge too obviously to set your boost level since the stock one in the dash wont read that high!

lol wat an epic

nice looking DR. i like those copper rims too theyre pretty unique! altho my DR sits about that low .. and it hasnt got cut springs just real low jap ones has fair bit of travel still ..! (tho back seat passengers find themselves airborn abit haha) im going totally insane trying to pick an ECU atm it sucks. ive gone from Microtech from one guy, to 2nd hand Wolf V3, now im having 2nd thought and leaning back to a Microtech but from a workshop for ~2k, then considering Wolf V4 for ~2.2k from another workshop ... then had a guy come out of left field suggesting S15 ECU and Z32 AFM ! dunno wat im doing lol

yas - not sure with the bov you should be able to hear it abit? maybe try adjusting the tension on the screw at the top? actualy, id say its not coz u have stock turbo, but because u have stock boost and stock exhaust. if u do your exhaust and increase the boost itll be good but otherwise it wont really open. my Sard R2D2 BOV i have on my car now wont open at all really now i have my boost controller off and am running stock boost. which is what yours is doing ! the black intake pipe they probably left there as it does actually help by getting cold air into the air filter. so if they have fit stuff in with the pipe there id say leave it as its only doing good by getting cold air from the front of the car! rsx - cheers for the headsup that slidewayz can get Jenesis stuff, but ive got no money for anything atm! but i want some coilovers and shit from there eventualy so cheers for info anyway! ;D