[ant]

rsx yeh i thought about wrapping the hose but id rather do things properly and get the radiator checked out at the same time cant hurt too i spose got car booked for a dyno run on thursday so we'll see how it goes =]

yup theyre enkei's i photoshopped onto the front haha hm i dont think my car had dryer/receiver since it already had a cooler there, but it did have the condensor still but not now !

yas - i dunno probably take it out depends wat it is i spose id needa have a look ! do u have a pic of it ? i wouldnt mind these front wheels on my car with the Rays rears, sure it looks mega mismatch but i dun give a shit i like that look lol ;D

Boj - cheers looks mean, they did a good job i reckon. The cooler has 2" turbo side since that stock pipe off the turbo and up alongside the engine to that stock bracket is 2", so they went from there 2" then flares out to 3" just near headlight to go into the 3" inlet on the cooler. Then 3" all the way on intake side. haha yeah the coke bottle overflow was fitted by the previous owner wen he took it down to the Kwinana Motorplex to do the 1/4 mile, they made him put something there so he skulled his coke and chucked that in there hahah. it was registered without one altogether! To make the cooler fit they needed to remove the air con condensor from the front coz its right in the way, if i want that back i need it rerouted elsewhere .. and they had to cut a loop about 1/2 the size of the pipe on the Inlet side in the metal under the headlight, and a small bit on the turbo side same place. Also, and this refers to RSX84's question, with the bottom lip, to get the cooler to sit there they removed that whole metal support bracket thing that is in the bottom for the lip, which has like 10 bolts along it! coz it was right where the cooler and it's brackets needed to go (cooler has 2 brackets underneath and 2 up top). so they simply replaced the end bolts for the lip and put a bunch of zipties along underneath to hold the centre. not the neatest but does the job and is sturdy enough. all the main bumper support etc is there and uncut so thats the main thing! however, u can probably see on the LHS pic the 3" inlet pipe is actualy squashing my radiator hose abit and sitting right up against it meaning the cooler pipe gets really hot so ive got to get my radiator out and get that elbow joint cut straight and flared out and a new peice of radiator hose that just goes straight across much simpler. costing me $72 for the cooler modifications, and a full clean and flush of the radiator & new fluid while its out. but thennn itll be perfect hhaaha cept shit it wouldnt mind them wheels in real life! looks mint! haha i might have to put my microtech install of a month or 2 and get another pair of 17s for the front ;D lol bling bling

got my car back today with the big Hybrid in the front, looks pretty mean with that cooler in there Sard BOV is a loud bugger too but nice clean sound just PTSH no fluttering. goes well. am resetting the ECU tonite to let it learn with new cooler but just as it was today it went well ! cant realy be bothered resetting ECU unplugging battery terminals but i guess its best to do it oh i added pics of the cooler install to my Gallery. even tho it probably still says i have zero pics they are in there!

yeh itl be fine i had no BOV on my s13 for about a year or so on stock T25G turbo running 1 bar with big cooler, i had no problems with it. you will find that big HP cars running good quality Atmo BOVs, they dont let air out at low revs/low boost anyway, they will flutter quite loudly too. since the pressure of air that is being generated isnt even enough to open the BOV, and thus not enough to realy do much harm to the turbo or to acceleration between gears. however, when they really get going running like 1bar + of boost, then the BOV opens. so really unless u have a big turbo/big boost a BOV isnt vital. however if u eventualy upgrade ur turbo and run much more boost its probably good to install a plumbback BOV. beter safe than sorry and pple will argue either way but basically the plumback shouldnt do any harm and will help throttle response under big boost, say top of 2nd or 3rd feathering the throttle a plumbback would assist in keeping a big boost/big turbo spinning well but for general driving at stockish lowish boost levels theres no problem having no BOV. plus wen ur really giving ur car shit u usualy shift fast, thus the BOV barely even has time to open anyway.

hmm seems a bit complicated ... but i guess you could do it and do your brakes at the same time i.e. get S14 hubs and R32 brakes and some s14 coilovers. or s13 hubs with redrilled 32 brakes and coilovers. kill 2 birds with one stone. then the rears are easy enough to bolt in if you swap the tops from your stock shocks onto the s13 coilovers i think? otherwise drill an extra hole in ur strut towers to accomodate the 2 hole s13 coilies. my suspension is quite good and im gona get Microtech next then new bushes, but wen i do brake upgrade it may be worth getting coilovers too i guess

romeo - yeh i think u can get electronic BOVs for non turbo cars but ... please dont. lol its so lame. ! roy - ah right yeah i got confused also. pple interchange the terms too much these days. so AFM = Air Flow Meter which is a Mass Air Flow sensor system, whereas MAP is Mass Air Pressure and is just a MAP sensor and has no other name? how exactly does the MAP not be interupted by a BOV then? wouldnt the pressure drop wen the bov releases and confuse that too? im totaly unsure of the principle behind the MAP sensor so this may be a stupid suggestion but im sure some1 will clear it up for me! cheers dudes!

haha Okay man ur pencilled in for cooler kit! ive already got that money planned for and spent before ive even got it now! haha going towards a Microtech ECU for my car! neway wen u get ur money sorted from tax return ill drop cooler off to you to show you how it goes n see if we can get it in. But it may need a bit of a mod to the pipe from the turbo i think from looking closely at mine, so u may need to get somewhere to do that for u but it should be pretty cheap to organize. but we can mount the cooler itself in the front of ur car to save money if u get put in by a shop. pod filter is like a half hour job, but u need a thin bit of metal or something to make a bracket to support it. i can show u wat mines like wen i drrop cooler off to u if u havent already installed urs by then! n muffler u just pick the one u want from the shop n book it in, they chop ur old one off and weld on the newy in a couple of hours ! too easy! let the mods begin! haha cant have the old classic being left stock! haha

its not MAF cars that run rich/overfuel on shift coz of BOV's, its AFM cars isnt it? MAF = mass air flow like what aftermarket ECU's use which *stop* overfuelling from BOVs. whereas stock cars have plain hotwire Air Flow Meter which overfuels with the atmo bov. but yeh the point was right that they cause overfuelling. its luck of the draw tho how bad or watever depending on many factors. my DR30 skyline has an old Jap bov of some sort, with it D/C there is noticable lag on shift at 1bar boost pressure. with it reconnected there is noticeabley less lag, even tho its slight and mostly see it on slower shifts. getting a hybrid 600x300x75 cooler installed over the next 2 days along with a Sard R2D2 BOV, so we'll see how that bad boy goes !

yas - u crazy mofo thats not a DR30, JINMAN is an import 2dr HR31. it was for sale for a while for 13k but hes keeping and rebuilding the RB20DET in it now. seen it on a few cruises. hey man u wanna buy my cooler!? getting my big one installed tomorow and get car back thursday. edit: an coz ur like the only dude with an FJ20 in perth its easy to sell it all to you and make good use of it, give u cooler, piping and BOV all for $150. beter than having it sitting round my place!

nah ill stick with my classic red n black hey but that silver one is nice!! all u need is that front spoiler, those wheels, and coilovers to make it look awesome as that regardless of colour. sucks how its difficult to really dump DR's yeah headlights suck on the DR hey im always using mainbeams on everything but main roads

Just gotten a big Hybrid intercooler installed on my DR30 so im selling the Trust cooler kit & BOV that was on it. The kit is the same as in this picture, however my piping is all Blue and has no trust or greddy labels on it. The kit is Trust, cooler has Trust stamped on the top. Mine has 2 extra injector ports on the piping not 3, however theyre unused and thus blocked. Cooler Kit: http://www.c-red.com.au/stock/dr2/dr2e.jpg Cooler has some damage to one row of it, has been filled with some kind of metal bog type deal. bout 1/5 of a fin size. However, ive had the cooler on the car since i had it and had no problems with it. Running 1bar all day without any ping, even had 1.2bar thru it for a month or so without a ping (even in 30deg summer temps). BOV is atmo venting 'Prof', which i believe is Professional Sheepdog but yeh has Prof label on it. It is a very quiet atmo BOV, but works well. hear it from in cabin but not much outside the car really. it is on the outlet piping, down near the pod filter, RH headlight. ive also wrapped a couple of metres of foil heat wrap around the inlet pipe that passes the head to try and stop a bit of heat. Asking $200 ono for the lot. Tis a very efficient cooler despite its size, however im looking to put out ~350-400rwhp in future so cooler upgrade is first on the list. Im in perth, any questions can email me at [email protected] or PM on here. Cheers !

sounds good how much the respray costing you? any rust to fix? mine has had a respray but not been prepped properly, has rust areas here and there, quoted around 2500-3000$ to fix the rust up so im leaving that till the end of the year. yours still got stock turbo yeh? mines going prety well i keep saying on here wat im getting done! haha cooler going in next week, then polyurethane front bushes round 3 weeks time, then saving for a Microtech LTX8. =) i will fix the paint tho, love the DR

hahah yeh after i posted that i closed site and went ah **** wtf he has an RB20 in his car its a 6 bleh but i couldnt be bothered re-signing in and retracting that statement. *shrug* hows ur DR going neway boj?

well Malpassi regulator if it is on your turbo Zed it is most likely a Rising Rate type regulator. that means that as the revs go up the pressure into the injectors increases at a greater rate than 1:1. im not sure if its 1:5 or 1:7? gone blank atm, but yeh as revs go up the regulator increases the pressure into the fuel rail hence pushing a bit more out of the injectors throughout the rev range. im not too sure of the technicalities of how it works but thats basically what it does! helps squeeze more out of your injectors across the entire rev range. nothing can really go wrong with them as such? they just regulate the fuel so if your car is running fairly well then chances are that your injectors are getting at least the amount of fuel they require. sometimes a rising rate Malpassi can cause a car to run rich as it pushes a bit more fuel in than is required. however, this is more safe than sorry really so its not too much of an issue. what does the gauge say? the gauge will be a fuel pressure gauge, allowing you to set up your fuel pressure at idle, bearing in mind as the revs increase the regulator will increase the pressure at the 1:5/1:7 rate, whichever it is so yeh wat rate is yours at now on the gauge? you really need to ask someone else with an RB20 and similar mods to yours what pressure they recommend. however, if the pressure is too low at idle, the car will not idle very smoothly as its not getting enough fuel. on the other hand, too high at idle and it may idle rich, and thus become richer and richer as the revs go up. this may cause misfiring or fouling up plugs quicker than usual. malpassi arent bad as long as it still is working which i assume it is if your car is running alright, its worth keeping it but just asking or workshop or someone what they recommend as the idle pressure on it. to adjust to idle pressure, you take the nut off the top of the regulator, and you will see a flathead screwhead. you undo the nut below that screwhead and this will allow you to turn the screw left and right to adjust the idle pressure up and down. u can monitor this with your gauge. hope this helps! just installed one on my own car the other week haha

hm thats pretty bad. has been dropped quite badly to do that. doesnt look like any major damage though id say itll be fine. you just will lose some flow obviously through those flattened areas my last cooler got similar thing but 1/2 the size on the bottom from a mate of mine dropping it while helping me mount it! didnt do any harm really. just disheartening when you get a new part that looks 2nd hand though should at least ring and complain or something but dunno what good it will do

hey dude, the cooler has been on the car since its been in the country. its been perfect since ive had it no problems with it at all. im not sure how hard itd be to put on your car but it should be really easy, mite need 1 pipe modified and thats it to get it to fit. but id need to have a look at your engine and see. can give u a hand to chuck it in if you like since ive seen how it goes in my car. it is hard to tell what gain you'll have. but you will definately get a gain that you will notice simply coz of the cooler air. also, i run 1bar (14.7psi) through this cooler all day without any worries, even in 30 degree temperatures, so if you buy a bleed valve and increase your boost (bleed valve ~$100) u can also run 1bar boost and then you will get more of a gain. but itd be better to get 3" exhaust done before increasing boost really. be much healthier for you engine just in general too it wont run as hot in summer and stuff. im not sure of differences in Compression Ratios between the Factory Intercooled & Non-Intercooled FJ20's, but the intercooled one has about 20hp more than the non intercooled. so u should gain say 10hp or so from the intercooler. plus yeh the ability to turn the boost up later on. id need to have another good look at the BOV i reckon. its audible from in the car u hear it go TSH but not that audible outside the car. but it definately works, the lag between gears is less with the BOV. but yeah, once the old cooler and BOV is removed im going to take it apart again and give it a full clean out with WD40 and make sure its all clean and nice inside. i think its just a quiet BOV hey! the link below is the same cooler kit that is on my car, however the piping is all that Blue colour and doesnt have Trust or Greddy written on it. also, mine only has 2 things for injectors, and theyre both covered up since i dont use them. the BOV on mine is down near the air filter/RHS headlight on the bottom pipe. http://www.c-red.com.au/stock/dr2/dr2e.jpg

just seal it with some shit. go to an auto shop and tell them wat happened and the diameter of the hole and see what they recommend. thas about it really ! should be easy enough to patch up