[ant]

i think u needa rough up the plastic a bit first with fine sandpaper or similar, then spray an undercoat or thin coat, then a proper coat over that. so that the paint 'bites' properly into the plastic. i havent done it so dont quote me but im prety sure thats wat u need to do to avoid chipping and peeling.

just on that, theres a guy on SilviaWa.com forums under Shop, S1x Shop, trying to organize a group buy of coolers trhough modyourcar.com, if they get 10 or more people then its $450 each for the coolers. if theres a few of u interested mite be worth it to get one to ur door for round $500 if enough pple join it *shrug*

i actually hadnt thought of the tops to be honest. but the rest of it would be easy enough i guess anyway doing full coilovers. i mite do that one day altho i like my susp as it is now (tho the front could be a bit lower it sits pretty flat coz matched springs from japan so its okay really) as far as the coolers go, i would agree with nowehre for $350. theres a few group buys on forums with them around 400-450 if u get in at the right time and are willing to wait in some cases, otherwise theyre all around $600 or so that i have found for 600x300x76 Core Size bar and plate coolers. Most i see for this price tho arent genuine hybrid stamped coolers, though it makes no difference apparently they come from the same place. i had a non-stamped big Hybrid in my last car (S13) and it was great, had no problems with it at all, just didnt have Hybrid on the top of it! i got my one through the ModYourCar.com website. they were on special for $495 + postage. not sure how much they are regularly, i think around $550 but then u need $50 or so for postage, so you guys over east (coz MYC.com perth based) probly be around $600. *shrug* or find a group buy if u can ! edit: and i dont work for them or nuthin haha i just ordered one a couple of weeks back to go in the DR thats all, so i had a hunt around forums and websites for them. though i dont use EBay so i didnt check there. just this site i got mine from was the cheapest i could find at that time ignoring group buys!

i also had a similar experience, albeit in my S13, it turned out to be a knackered fuel pump. noone told me it, i just did exhaust, FMIC, and next mod was fuel pump so i did that and Walah! it was like a new car. fuel pump ended up being my favourite mod lol

the S13 rear coilovers fit up all good except they are either 2 hole at the top at the back, whereas DR30 are 3. basically u have to drill an extra hole to line up the S13 coilovers at the top. pretty simple job though. just stick one thread in an existing hole, then drill a one that matches up on the other side. i havent done this to my car but todd with DR30 on these forums has, im sure he will pipe up soon to confirm what i just said i mite be interested in a shirt depending on it's design and price i guess.

yeh red lite cameras take 2 photos, one as u cross the first line into the intersection, then a second as u pass out of the back of the intersection, and they can measure the time delay n things between them to work stuff out like speed etc. so yeh have u gone to see the photo and asked about a phoito coming out the other side too. coz u should be able to get away with that, on the self preservation thing and the technicality that u didnt actualy go thru the intersection u just crept over it. i didnt think the fine even came if u just tripped the front camera once to be honest, as ive seen pple do it before and it hasnt come.

hm my dr30 has a misfire .. hoping its the leads, one doesnt click onto the top of the plug all that well .. fingers crossed misfires suck, theres just so many possibilites to try when attempting to fix them, its pure luck if u stumble onto the right one straight away! plugs is easy but after that it can get more complicated! also have u reset ur ECU? silly thing but sometimes it helps too, once u change ur plugs and etc that uve done, undo ur battery for a while then re connect it. it may help.

but the SAFCII is like $400 or so, then you've got your full dyno tune time .. how long would it need on a dyno to tune a SAFCII? probably end up not all that worth it in the end? be on your way to having the money for a full management system. the small gains u make with the safc2 in the meantime probably arent that earth shattering that you couldnt have gone without them and saved for a bit longer?

hm so would that floor brace thing work well or would a rear strut brace do the same thing? i have a front one but wouldnt mind rear too if i can get it made up over here for cheap. engine damper would be cool though coz my engine wobbles a bit, would be nice to get a damper for it. if they could be had around $250 or less id probly be interested.

i dont use my aircon neway so i dont mind losing it on my DR30. its still there atm tho til i get big FMIC in. i just wind the windows down! power windows ... would be good but meh its not that bad and if you want them, just go to an alarm fitter place and theyll get u the solenoids and chuck em in hooked up to your alarm for a couple of hundred or so, no big deal. u sure yours doesnt have power steering? well i mean i guess u'd know lol. hm no power ive read does suck, very heavy steering. mine is 83, does have power steering. its a heavy power steering (i.e. u cant palm the wheel or anything like that) and u gota realy grab hold of it if u intend to turn a corner sharply with one hand, but i guess itd be better than no power steering. but power steering cant even be that much to get? i spose its up to you,. .. thats what seperates car owners i guess. i went from a Mirage (96) to an S13 sil80 (92) to the DR30 (83) and i dont mind it. never use aircon (uses more fuel and takes power) so i can live with it. the DR is more raw but i like that in a car. though i do sometimes think that the outside look/"coolness" of the car that people perceive does become a bit tarnished when you actually own it yourself. (becomes more of a hassle and u notice things more than just its rarity and "angry" looks =]) just take some newer cars for a spin and see i guess? though remember youll probably never own one again or anyone you know so make sure ur over it before you sell it ... plenty of time for boring "modern" cars when your old and have a family!

lol goin off. hm, i mite be interested in that short shift thing for my FJ, it doesnt like tos hift sometimes. altho then if its shorter and easier to cram in itll probably kill my box all the sooner !

i reckon they wouldnt be too bad even though they are japanese since theyre just a spring i cant see them being super high rated coz theyre made to go on different ratings of shocks, even probably onto stock shocks like you have. though they would probably be a bit higher rated than australian stuff i can only assume. guy should be able to get u the spring rates, they would be listed on the packaging somewhere i would image. and how he said your car already has coilover suspension, i think he meant that technically speaking the car does have coilover suspension as it has a coil spring over a shock absorber. japanese coilovers are just height/damper adjustable coilover systems, as opposed to factory fitted spring/shock combo coilovers. but people have just come to know one-peice adjustable japanese coilovers as 'coilovers' and shocks and springs as shock & spring combos

suspension seems to be one of those things that once u sorta ask a place 'why does it do so&so?' theyll come up with an arms-length list of items u can change to try and help. people seem to just go 'shit yeh i got my coilovers in shes gona handle awesome now', and sure stiffer lower susp helps but the rest adds the extra adjustments u need really to get things all nice and square and set up well. but if ur unhappy id just go straight back and ask for another alignment. ive done it many times, had up to 3 alignments in a row coz im not happy haha then i got castor rods to really help adjust the front (on my old car, S13) and they really were helpful. mite pay to look into other stuff =]

lol yeh as blind elk says thats ur fuel pump in there. if u unscrew and lift that out thats ur fuel pump. and then yeh the wiring n shit for it is connected to the top. then the other one is where ur motor and shit are for ur power aerial which is on the outside of the car just there, as people have said. in my old S13 180, it had some kind of rattley sound from the boot, i spent ages trying to fix the jack in a solid place, it still did it. stuck my arm down the side of the car in the dark and felt round (bit aprehensive to do that realy haha), and i found ... a japanese golf ball! i now it was jap coz it had jap writing on it. hehe

got dump pipe done today and cat removed. so 3" turbo back an big muffler got pulley sorted, at least temporarily too, and all new belts and tensioners coz they were all bent n mangled. much smoother and goes harder now. gota redyno just for curiosities sake in a few weeks wen i get money again haha

i had a TurboXS bleed valve on my S13, it had full exhaust and hybrid cooler, stock turbo SR, the bleed valve worked quite well for 1bar, then i got a 2nd hand Trust/Greddy Profec B (spec 1) for it and it boosted better and for a bit longer, when playing with the boost response knob (forget its exact name) but really didnt make too much difference really just coz of the stock T25G being out of its effeciency pretty easily and always wanting to bleed boost. in my DR30 it has an older style HKS EVC and i find this to work really well on this car. running about 1.1bar and it goes up and stays there really well, never ever spikes or jumps around. i have catback exhaust (soon to be full =]) and a small FMIC, stock T3 turbo (FJ20)

haha the first one is sorta ok, tho i think its just the wide kit and rims that save it, coz the headlights are a bit too wide-eyed i think. lol that 2nd one is shocking. and the front headlights are almost like VY Commodore ones lol

hm i dont think they do this wierd letter sending in WA .. never heard of it ever before. they just yellow sticker u on the spot for noise if they want to do something like that. but my S13 went over with full turbo back 3" exhaust with no resonator but high flow cat and 3" straight thru muffler. they didnt even test it with a meter he just goes 'yeh its fine' haha and u cant permit exhaust over here, they just say 'yes' or 'no' when u go to the pit he said yes to me but another guy mite test and say no i dunno

in my S13 silvia i had an 040 mounted in the tank as its meant to be and had no problems with it. it was the one with the mesh on the bottom. you cant fit the strainer coz the pump has the mesh on the bottom. it would suck fuel from even on Empty. however, try to bust donuts to the left when the tank is below half way and obviously it surges and cuts ur engine (haha then u look stupid). but as far as normal driving at low fuel levels its okay. to combat this u could mount it lower in the tank. i mounted mine at the same height as the original (cut the bottom of the bracket off and clamped it into the same position). i now have DR30 so this comes with a factory external pump which i replaced with a bosch 910. downside of the 910 is it doesnt have a stop valve, and since i dont have a factory intank pump, i have no pump to pump fuel to the 910, so i need to let it prime for a while with key turned to accesory position, before trying to crank it over. also if left in hot sun it sometimes takes a bit longer as theres fuel vapours in the lines. but for all you other later skyline owners this wouldnt be a problem anyway haha

hey guys can u get aftermarket pulleys for FJ20ET's? the main crank pulley on mine i think is ok but the other 2 behind for alternator and a/c move up and down on the crank shaft heaps more than they should. is there any like aftermarket pulleys of some sort you can get? or better to replace with originals? (ne1 got any spare? haha)

hey guys, my DR30 (FJ20ET) blew about 3 alternators with the previous owner, and current one rattles badly ... i traced the problem to the crank pulleys or harmonic balancer or watever the proper term is (im not much of a mechanic haha) the front crank pulley is fixed, but then the rear 2 pulleys that are connected as 1, one to the alternator and one to the a/c pump, i understand these are meant to 'float' slightly on the shaft, but mine are worn or something inside and move heaps, as in they move and hit the block and hit the crank pulley (up and down entire shaft of movement) as such, one of the pulleys is badly ground away on 1 side from scraping on the crank pulley, and the alternator's blowing bearings pulling the thing into line all the time. i was just curious if anyone has had similar problems? im a car mod nut, so i was curious if their are any after market pulley kits available to replace my worn pulleys with? or is it just best to try and get hold of second hands pulley and shaft bearing or watever it needs? i know GFB do pulley kits so i checked their site but they have nothing for FJ20, so just thought id query if anyone else has had similar problems and knows of aftermarket pulleys or the like. I always try to upgrade when i break something ! ! ;D haha im in perth btw .. cheers, ant

i had a mirage .. that sucked and soon as i got my licence i sold it and bought an S13 Sil80 (converted 180sx) spent about 8k on that over the next 18mths of owning it, got it to just over 200rwhp and low 13 1/4 mile, then decided id rather a change than going the next step with turbo injectors etc on that car. was getting ready to import an R32 GTS-T hopefully with an RB25 and some other mods from Prestige or the like, then my mate with a DR30 RS Turbo said he was thinking of selling so i waved some cash and the rest is history! couldnt say no to a classic skyline!

haha last year in Scarborough beach in perth there was this huge burnout thing in the carpark that started, with people lifting up cars to make em do burnouts n stuff if they didnt have the power. i wanted to leave but got boxed in had to do burnout in my sil80, had about 6-7 bogans run up and grab the front wheel arches and lift em up ! lol had a few cluey people in the crowd yelling 'its RWD u fools!' then i did a bit, with some BOV PTSH in between gears and wotnot, turbo induction noise, then as im taking off and the cheering etc has died down from my attempt, some1 goes 'hey wait was that ... TURBO!?!? AWESOME!' haha got loads of 'wat the hell is that car?' with it being a sil80, u could never use it to pick up chicks .. ! chick = nice car! me = thanks! chick = wat is it? me = nissan ... sil80 ... chick = silawatta? me = nissan 180sx with the front of a nissan silvia .. its not welded just panel sw - chick = er yeh ok ... (*thinking geez wat a car nerd*) hahah now i have a DR30 skyline! this is a fun car for attention. lots of people thumbs up and knwing encouraging nods of approval haha some guy like 40yr old when i was in freo yells 'Holy SHIT! thats an RS! They used to race them shits when i was younger! Give it curry mate!!!!' i had to oblige ;D DR30 has a bit of rust to fix n some maintanence to get it sweet, but damn gota love driving a rare classic

u dont want Atmo bov and plumbback. coz the plumbback is known to leak over certain boost levels which will lose u boost. thats one of the reasons u upgrade to HKS or watever. as far as pressure goes, it wont make much difference since its just doubling the release of air which is good. some going back in will act like them hybrid bovs too stopping it stalling or watever coz it stil lgets air back to the AFM. but it will make the HKS quieter too probably coz not as much air coming out of it. id remove the original i reckon. just block up the places where it goes in i.e. put blockers up any pipes that are left from it's removal. easy. no need for 2! or yeh u could also just jam it shut somehow but easier to take it off and fill the holes with something and clamp it up nice n tight.

well i had moment like that in my 180sx. i had a Mirage before it, then got the sil80 3 months after getting my licence. took off from 2 lane turning lane, was first time id driven the car since test drive, first time driving turbo, first time in rear wheel drive, first time id driven in wet weather,and first rains that we had had since the summer season etc so the roads were very greasy and oily, just was at about 3000rpm in 1st, went for 2nd mid corner (bad idea heh) and changed quite sharply as i used to in the Mirage (to keep speed up in that haha) back came round, nothing i could really do to stop it coz within seconds it had slid up an island to the left of me, scraping the rim, then slid off that, person next to me slowed down, and i slid round into the left lane, and bumped up front first and got stuck in the sandy island with my front wheels. cracked front lip and bent steering arm. was gay but, good lesson. i never again did silly shit in that car, never had any other accidents or anything. and now i am 19 have just gotten DR30 skyline so ill be just as careful with this, coz parts wil lbe harder to find if i stuff anything up its gay to learn that way spinning out but, what else can u do? i reckon as part of driving lessons they should introduce like extra optional course at a discounted price. like the extra Defensive driving or watever they are called, advanced courses that teach u breaking limits and understter/oversteer control. yeh at special rates for new licence holders. could be handy.