danh

BARON make an offer on PM, i would prefer to sell them with the fronts as well. DOES ANY ONE OUT THERE WANT SLOTTED DBA4000 FRONTS???? dan

SYDNEY EAST

sorry guys no shell no rear diff/cradle no drivetrain parts do have clutch master and slave brake booster, abs system full brake system, front and rear DBA 4000 rotors, GTR calipers and bendix ultimate pads

still lots of parts guys the motor, box and associated parts are all gone but theres lots of interior bits the bootlid passengers door door trims rear seats passengers seat etc etc

GUYS MAKE OFFERS ON THE MOTOR, IT HAS TO GO.. ANY REASONABLE OFFER WILL BE CONSIDERED!!!

hey guys sorry, i've been off my feet this week, i'll get the rest of the pics up this weekend, if you want a part please make an offer. sometimes it takes me a bit of time to get back to you because i have to find out the average price of the parts, if u make an offer that sounds good to me i wont bother to check the price on the part an u will probably get a good bargain...!! again sorry to all those PM's i havent replied to yet theres never enough hours in the day! dan

RB30GTR i will keep my eyes peeled mate blk180 sorry, dont think i have them, but i'll check this week dan

no front bar, no bonnet, no guards, no fuel filler, front shocks are TEIN HR will sell full set for $500. bit rusty, work fine

skyline33 sorry they're already gone

.....PICS TO BE ADDED ASAP.... MAKE AN OFFER ON ANYTHING SYDNEY contact DAN 0414-369-735 R32 GTR 1990 model - scrapping due to rear end damage lots of parts for sale, ask for any not listed. parts will be constantly updated as they become available LOTS OF PARTS STILL TO GO - DASH BOARD - $OFFERS includes vents. small bubble in usual place infront of passenger - HICAS & ATESSA COMPUTERS - $OFFERS all work fine. engine CPU sold - FULL R32 GTR BRAKE SYSTEM - $OFFERS includes new DBA4000 rotors and BENDIX pads (500km) front and rear - DASH SURROUND, CENTRE CONSOLE & GAUGES - $40 & $100 clean, works fine - PASSENGER DOOR - $OFFERS black colour, can include glass, mirror & handle - PASSENGERS DOOR WINDOW - $150 clean no scratches, no tint - PASSENGERS DOOR MIRROR - $50 black colour, slight scratches, works perfectly, mirror not broken - PASSENGERS DOOR HANDLE - $40 clean, black colour, works fine - BOOT LID - $300 clean, spoiler & key barrell removed & holes filled MORE listed throughout next pages Dan

do your wheels have a centre cap that covers the lug nuts? sometimes they click and make funny noises. also could be diff or cv joints. do you feel the clicks in the car, like a jolting coming through the transmission? i supose the best bet is to take it to a mechanic..

if your in syd. pm me and i'll tell you one dealer to stay the hell away from...

yep, definately agree.. i think i'm trying to make the sme point, but don't want to dismiss the RB20 from the equation.. or upset the GTS-t drivers out there... it would be interesting to hear an engine builder's point of view on this one..

scathing fair comment i think this is one o those debates that could go on for a lifetime but logically... if for arguments sake, you take the strongest/highest power rated internals possible for each motor, i dont see why the RB20 couldnt make 400kw? are there examples of ppl making these power figures with the RB20? although, yes if someone came to me and said i want to make 400kw and i dont care what shape, size or form the motor is, i would suggest a Rb26 over a RB20 anyday. simply because it is like taking the beaten track..

400kw @the wheels is gonna cost a crap load of money. whether thats on a GTS-t or GTR, but GTR i imagine would make better use of the power with AWD system (and would probably be cheaper in the long run..?) reliability wise, i imagine if you are aiming for 400kw, as long as you're doing the right upgrades to the motor, i think either a RB20DET (GTS-t engine) or RB26DETT (GTR engine) wouldn't be much more reliable than each other.. however the extra 600cc from the GTR engine will make a big difference to the drivability of the car once you drop a massive 400kw making turbo on the end of it..

normally there will be 8 wires for audio. 2 for each speaker. if you have a mulitmeter you can work out what all the other wires are by grounding the neg prong of the multimeter and testing each wire when you turn on the car or turn on the lights... if you have a wiring diagram all the hard work should be done for you.... what car is it? maybe someone out there can help you more specifically if we know the car...

once you are 100% sure the wires you are playing with are audio not power or illumination etc just get a AA battery and stick one wire on each end, if you hear the speaker make a noise then you know those two wires are for that speaker. to tell which wire is pos or neg, you need to see the speaker to see which way the cone moves...

you got it in one mate

hey, i'm gonna include rego etc so people can see the ACTUAL costs involved in owning one of these cars.. Car details: 1990 R32 GTR 85,000km 20yo, Sydney almost no mods, not yet dyno'd Bought 07/05 Purchase price: $25,500 Insurance: 3,000/yr Transfer fee and Stamp Duty: $800ish CTP insurance: $566 Rego: $250? (havent paid yet) =$4,050 Maintenance: - Basic service, fluid change etc $250 - tyre valve x1 and alignment $100 = $350 Repairs: - New brake pads and rotors all 4 corners and new clutch $3,000ish (dont remember exactly) - new coilover suspension $2500 =$5,500 Modifications umm... NO MONEY LEFT! lol Total = $9,900 WOW ^^^^ that sux, and it was all needed within the first week of ownership thats what happens when you buy a car from certain 'highly awarded' sydney dealerships

but then theres the problem of the brakes! arghh tough decisions

im going to vote for 6 again.. they're sexy but looking closely at your av. and since its NA and you want looks rather than race go No. 2 in 19"...

my advice... ok, you need to get a car that is less than 10 yrs old. simple. i dont care what u get, thats up to you. but i'm telling you now, insurance is bloody expensive, service and maintenance is expensive. and no matter what car you get, chances are everytime you get in it your gonna redline most gears, most of the time. its just what young cool blokes do. until they crash and get into massive debt or kill someone. even then, some dont learn their lesson. and i can just imagine you saying your not like that, your a GOOD driver etc etc.. even if you dont have the balls to say your a inexperienced driver, you still are. the truth is, you are an experienced and responsible driver when: -you do not EVER exceed the speed limit -you do not weave through traffic to get where you are going faster -you don't thrash the motor up to the speed limit then throw it in top gear and cruise. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- i'm 20. i have no fkn experience. i'm a shit driver. i've been driving for 4 yrs including my L's. i just got my full licence i've owned 3 cars. a rav 4, subaru impreza RS, r32 gtr i've lost 8 demerit points. crashed twice. once because i had my head down changing the cd at 30km/h. once because i was driving way too fast and i was fatigued from work. my gf and i are lucky to be alive because of that crash. the first thing i do when i finish saving some money is i'm going to INSURE MY DAMN CAR GET ADVANCED DRIVING LESSONS MAKE SURE I NEVER EVER DO ANYTHING SO FKN STUPID AGAIN ON THE ROAD IN MY ENTIRE LIFE. trust me. get a reliable, cheap, as new as possible car. save your money. STUDY at uni. CHANGE YOUR ATTITUDE. dont speed on the roads. and buy yourself a beautiful sports car when you have an absolute abundance of money to pay for repairs, servicing, insurance and most important MODS! even if you do nothing i suggest, which is fine with me, just please, for the sake of your friends and your parents and everyone that cares about you or you care about. don't speed on the roads.

and to think i was gonna paint my 32 gold..BAAAHAHAHAHA scrap that idea.. my vote is No.6, btw nice looking cars sam and funky...

ok no worries g.luck

i have one for r32 gtr is that any help??