mupkant

yep its r33 95 gtst but wrong and wrong

R33 1995 gtst yeh they actually went out to test drive some car.

Got my car dynoed today at ICE. i got somewhere around 153 rwkw. can anyone guess wat my mods are?

haha thanks inark, i thought at that point we were screwed when only half of the last spark plug came out Gotta love it when you had little screams of "owww" everytime you touched a hot part. lol Anyhow, thanks again, really appreciated!

ill time ya tonight inark btw what beer you like?

you have pm

i read previous threads and some claimed it took them under 1hr. i live in sth eastern, Noble Park help please

already done a search on how to do it, found a guide but rather some1 in melbourne who can do it for me within 30mins? to save me the risk of breaking something. Also learning from someone who knows what their doing is far better any1 care to help me out?

search button but apparently you get more options, most important the intervals of tunning can go by 200 or something whereas the safc I can only go by 500? something like that. power gains from around 15-25rwkw.

if its a r33, you need to take off the 'skyline' bracket off first. This has 4 screws plus a middle plastic thingy, need to pop that out too. then unscrew the screws on the tail light and slowly pull it out, pull it from side to side, wiggle it. or from the inside, use something to hammer it out from the screw. Or use a screw driver from the outside and pop it out, best point to pop it out is the indicataor, where it seems like the light has been chipped. (weird how i;ve found alot of skylines at that particular point, seems chipped) the glue isnt so bad. knock it out i did

thx, the THR wire wasnt even connected! got it connected and works fine now when foot flat down reads 100% when right off 0% looks good ill take a look at voltages

hehe thx, i remember when i went to pick up my car, my hands got itchy so i played around with the settings, but was only meant to check the Monitors menu at the red lights. somehow went to ETC and selected a wrong sensor Revs dropped and my car stalled right in a Hwy (80 kph) road. had to jump start it, as the battery was raped when trying to start it 20 times.

omg Throttle % does not rise as i accerlate, only the airflow % & rev % guess mechanic f*** the wiring? = ill pop the ecu out later and take a look. yes please with standard settings, just in case i left anything out

when i change it to "04" "04" the cars rev starts droppin then the car turns off. i figure '04' do to the table for my vechile. and i read the manual "If. Sensor type is 'Hotwire' ............... "if Sensor type is Pressure'........... nothing beside it, looks like a bad pdf scan? a blur line in the pdf. page 28 of the pdf

oh and for cyclinders i choose 6 and the arrow up

95 gtst ok i set it to Hotwire 4 choose 'hotwire' and keyed in "04" "04" is that it?

ok it worked now i got to the re-initalise factory settings menu and it worked. the first time i tried it didnt. thx anyway strutto always a help

ah think ive found it

ive read through it cant find anything can you recommend some settings i should change?

oh btw safc is 2nd hand, so the chances are the settings were made for the pervious car. need my car tmr running normal for a long valentines drive! some1 save me! please

Hi guys, Just installed SAFC I today by mechanics, dunno if they installed it correctly, since when i go into 'Monitor' --> '4 Channels' its shows the revs go up as i accerlate, also the air flow and correc. BUT NOT 'Trottle' Throttle is always at 0% is this correct? The main issue here is i want to reset the settings completely or change everything to value 0? so that my car doesnt act so spastic, when i accerlate, At the moment when i acceralte-moving to certain RPM's the car fully jerks (reminds me wen i first learnt manual) and sometimes the car seems like it will stall when dropping its REV's Very dicculty to drive Can some please help where should i set the values to 0. and dont say get it DYNOED as i will not untill i have an exhaust!!! thanks

im not sure... this is just a replacement for an entire exhaust system. from a flick of a switch you have 1. free flowing ON 2. back to stock exhaust OFF - daily driving you can have it back to stock nice quietness - for the tracks or drags switch it ON for performance wise. good for being a sleeper imagine a skyline flying past ya, with roaring sound, then you look at its rear and see the stock muffler with 2 small pipes, you'd be "wtf....."

dump---> front pipe --->E-cutout--->cat---.>cat back--->muffler ok its a dodgy picture but it represents an exhaust system, Point 'x' has an electronic flap where it can open and close by a siwtch inside car. So if it is closed the gases will past into the normal system, which includes, cat. catback, muffler. back to stock If Flap is open the gases obviously just pass right under the car, bypassing cat/catback/muffler. which would be hella loud, like a v8.

oww no1?

E-cutout stock front/dump vs. 3" dump/front E-cutout 1. what how much difference really? 5rwkw or so? and 500rpm fast spoiling? then how about; 2. Stock Dump/Front E-cutout vs. 3" full system turbo back?<---- what will be better? basically trying to anaylse which will be cost effective with minimum difference thx