Messiah

SkylineGeoff I tend not to mention the handling and suspension all that much as that is the part i understand the most, i forgot to mention that a strut brace and new brake disks and pads are up there on the list too. Heh the reason i ask u guys questions like this is cos i have a brother in law who follows the "if it doesnt move chrome it, if it doesnt go fast enough turn the boost up" and i'm making sure that whatever advice he gives me is tempered by common sence, and since i have none i thought i'd ask all of you then research yr answers. Also why would i want to buy a pre-modded car??? half the enjoyment is doing it yrself and watching yr machine grow and blossom.... oh and giggling at yr back balance weekly.

JimX, Cheers, now we're talkin. Really i'm still in the planning stages for my car. This really is just a research and feed back question to help me work out the best paths or possible paths based on others experience. Theres alot of info in these forums, some of in conflicting some of it unanamously supported, but what i did notice is that alot of people seems to place priority and importance in widely varying areas, and being a thinking man i thought i'd try and get some clarification in one centralised spot. I think i asked a question a little like this when i first joined the forums, but it was more of a where do i start kinda question. Now i know that but i'm snowed under with options. Heres whats on my todo list (in rough order).... Cold Air partition Boost controller Power FC New Clutch (now this one niggles me... so many options double plate, triple plate Suspension work FMIC (will prolly be done along side a bigger turbo) Thats all i've planned for now. I'm trying to follow a "preparation first" flow and get the engine ready for bigger better things. But right now i'm trying to get my head around what works and what doesnt, and i thought the best way to find that out without trying it is to ask people who might have tried it already. Yeah i know i ramble, but when it comes to car modding i get easily distrac... ooerr shiney thing! Messiah

I love my skyline, i want it to run for years to come. 300rwkw was really just a number i picked out of my head to try and open up the ammount of options people had (although maybe i should lower it so that it doesnt require "everything"). i guess maybe some around mid to high 200's would be better and more realistic. So yeah lates make it 250ish if it makes it a better question. Messiah

Hey guys, Now before you think that i've skiving off doing research and bludging the answers off you, the point of this question isnt to get everyone to plan out my car for me, but instead its to help me see the many different ways to acheive one desired goal. I'm a newb when it comes to modding engines (i can make a computer scream but petrol and electricity dont mix) and i want to avoid sinking into the mindset of a single path with set steps and instead replace it with a whole lot of possibilities. I'd be interested in hearing as many answers from as many people as possible as i know u all have your own philosophies. So heres my question (and dont feel that you have to be too specific), Say you had a gts25t and wanted to take it to 300rwkw, how would you do it? Remember guys, i'm not looking for a howto, just an idea about the different ways it could be acheived, plus it will be interesting to be able to compare all the responses (if i get any). I'm especially looking forward to sydney kids answer, he always makes it shound like brain surgury. P.S Sydney kid, where in syd are you, and have u ever considered giving classes on working skylines? if not wanna start? Look forward to reading your creative answers Messiah

oh.... and spool up time might be a little above average.

.... but this ones purpose built for lawn mower applications..... is a trust T88-34D. Be warned tho.... the wash resulting from your increased blade speed may lead to lift off or, in some cases, the mower may tunnel its way to china.

uurrrmmm wrong button.... my replies here. Crash course in Detection physics Hope it helps

This was all pretty good until i saw the line "whilst i must agree that radar works on bouncing a high freq pulse of sound". The only detection too that uses sound is sonar, and this is due to the high refraction level of light through water which makes light useless for detecting vessals. RADAR on the other hand (and LIDAR) both use pulses taken from the electromagnetic spectrum ie light but at different wavelengths. Sound wouldnt be too useful for car speed detection as the higher the sound frequency the lower distance it can be used at and the lower the frequency the less 'acurate' the measurement. This coupled with the fact that sound can be easily distorted by enviromental factors make its a pretty dodgy tool to use. Now on to the Number plate issue. Now if we set up a few assumptions ie... 1. The Radar/Lidar device has a very narrow beam 2. The cop holding it has a very steady hand 3. The same cop has the worlds greatest aim Then yes tilting your number plate down by 10Degs will cause the beam to reflect into the ground before it reaches the emitter. Unfortunately the last 2 assumptions are incalcuable and the first is very unlikely (which makes the last 2 redundant anyway). In reality you'll have the following problems. 1. The motion of the car coupled with the small corrections in the coppers aim will mean that the beam will not stay focused on that one area 2. The edges in the number plate lettering would cause enough refraction to atleast reflect a fraction of the beam back to the emmiter. 3. Since we know that the beam is not restricted to the number plate we have to assume that the entire fron end of the car will act as a potential radar/lidar cross section. Now dont get me wrong, i'm not honking on about people trying to be sneaky and get out of stuff they ****ed up. Nor am i saying that all this is utter crap. Instead i'm trying to put it all in perspective. It is possible to make changes to your car that will reduce your cars radar cross section, however the changes neccesery to reduce it to a level which would make it undetectable (or at the very least untargetable) would require so much boddy modding your nice shiny skyline front end would look more at home in the aussie solar challenge. The real trick is to use a combination of what alot of you have suggested, and turn your car into an "unclean" target. here are a few additions. 1. Use a high gloss transparent spray on yr number plate (i have heard hair spray works but i could be wrong). 2. Mount Ir flood lights near yr number plates. I have a few of these lying around. They produce no visual light but anything wishing to detect an IR reflection from your car will instead receive IR "noise", and anything trying to use IR as an illumination device for say photography will instead find the pics washed out and over exposed. 3. avoid fixed speed cameras and coppers 4. dont speed. Yeah ok the last 2 were cheating but eh! what ya gonna do. Now nothings fool proof, and i dont endorse any of these sneaky measures, so if u get nicked using any dont point them to me. On the other hand, if anyone has a spare of NVG's available (passive that is) and cares to test its effectiveness i'd love to hear the results. Just my 2p. Messiah

Allo all, I'm new to the forums and was just bringing myself up to speed when i noticed this jem of a thread. Now i've recently bought myself a 94 r33 GT-ST (M-spec i beleive but hey new to skylines so i could be wrong) and i've been having a long hard think about what i'm going to do and how i'm going to make it matter by getting as much of that power to the tarmac with mimimum loss of traction, so all of this is of great interest. So far it seems that the biggest problem with what your all trying to discover (stock BOVs vs 3rd party Atmos V's, LSD and tyre diameter) is that you dont have a baseline. So far everyones comparing their work and results but as we can all see, what works for one lad wont nessecerily work for the next. To me this would be because everyone, to some extent at least, have already got themselves knee deep into their mods so results will vary. Now i find myself in an intersting situation... My new GT-ST so far is almost as stock as a rock. Besides a K&N pod filter, a 3inch cat back with 4inch tip and an apexi timer (all came with the thing) not a bean has been changed, tuned or tweaked (i even have the original panel filter with cold air box in the boot). So making the right decision first time would be nice. Now what this leads me to think is "what a great opp to dispell a few myths or incorrect beliefs" not that i have the answers, i dont i have none, but i wouldnt mind finding the definative answers once and for all. So basically over the next X amount of time my little baby will be getting a course of steroids, and i thought it might be a nice idea if i tested and checked things as i went, hopefully getting us all the info required to find that magic mix of parts (oh and air fuel too). So people please tell me, what do you wish you'd checked out before starting work? is there anything you would want to try out or do differently if u got your hands on another stock unit (or near to it)? Maybe as i do my work i can measure this or that and give you figures based on a near to stock unit, or alternatively updates as each bits goes on and is tuned (ie a third party BOV fitted as part of upgrade "A" that gave crap results but came good after adding upgrade "B"). I'll be heading down to Eastern Creek in the near future to set myself an unmodded time, something to compare all the work i do to it against. You never know what the results might turn up. Ok truth be told i just wanted to say "CRAP WHERE DO I START!!?!?!?!?" but i wanted to make it sounded interesting, involved and full of possibilities. And you never know... doing up a skyline with parts chosen by general consensus might have interesting (or expensive) results. I hate making mistakes, maybe with all your help i can avoid a few and maybe help others do the same. Have fun all. Messiah