Run-It-Hard

WEEKEND WALLPAPER - LOW DOWN STAGEA - VIEW ON THE BLOG I haven’t done a Weekend wallpaper for quite a while now (Since August last year!) so I guess I better stop being lazy and get on it! Here’s some desktop goodness of My Stagea right before it when into my cramped garage to get pulled apart for the billionth time. Download wallpaper. Download wallpaper. Download wallpaper.

WEEKEND WALLPAPER - LOW DOWN STAGEA - VIEW ON THE BLOG I haven’t done a Weekend wallpaper for quite a while now (Since August last year!) so I guess I better stop being lazy and get on it! Here’s some desktop goodness of My Stagea right before it when into my cramped garage to get pulled apart for the billionth time. Download wallpaper. Download wallpaper. Download wallpaper.

300zx Z32 OEM wheels Drift button SOLD!

Controlled breathing - Part II - VIEW ON THE BLOG With the recent fitting of the catch can to my Stagea, I feared the worst. I thought “how can a standard RB25 blow so much oil?!” So I took it to Dahtone and we preformed a compression test. I was anxious to say the least, but the results came back consistent and not too far off the factory specs which is pretty damn good to me! So it just happens to be that my RB25 is pumping too much oil into the head, and cannot drain it back quick enough. I didn’t want to go and pull apart a mint engine to fix this tedious issue that the RB is renowned for. So I did some research into the baffle design on RB25 cam covers. As you can see there isn’t much going on with the standard setup, there is a big opening towards the back of the cover and only a small piece of mesh to slow the flow of oil before exiting out the cam cover. The ultimate goal was to slow the oil down, to a point where a minimal amount would be able vacate the cam cover. The first thing I noticed was how small the drain holes in the baffle plate were, I did some testing and under a medium flow of fluid, the drain would struggle to release it all and overflow. I then opened the drain using a flat head screw driver, and tested again. The enlarged drains were more efficient and even handled a higher flow. Next up I designed some metal plates to baffle the cam cover. I went for three in each , one was placed at the back to restrict and slow down the flow of oil entering the breather section. The other two were welded in-between the standard mesh. Basically I wanted to reduce the oil entering past the mesh, and escaping out of the breather holes. The idea of the baffles was to keep any oil that enters in the drainage section of the OEM baffle plate. to finish it off, I filled the cam cover with fuel cell foam, to further slow the oil. It’s super dense where the drain holes are to emphasise this. For those keen on adding their own baffling, just a word of warning. You will need to drill out the plates as they are spot welded on. You’ll also need to tap the holes so you can use bolts to secure the plates. While the covers were off the Stagea, I gave them a coat of paint … black as always. The recent practice night was the test to see if the extra baffles have helped keep oil within the engine. Although the track is a lot shorter than Wakefield, I was still on or near limiter for roughly 30 seconds at a time. Anyway I checked the catch can, plumbing and the intake pipe after the event and there is no oil to be found! It'll be interesting to see if it's the same senario next time I go to Wakefield, but so far so good and I think this'll do the trick.

Controlled breathing - Part II - VIEW ON THE BLOG With the recent fitting of the catch can to my Stagea, I feared the worst. I thought “how can a standard RB25 blow so much oil?!” So I took it to Dahtone and we preformed a compression test. I was anxious to say the least, but the results came back consistent and not too far off the factory specs which is pretty damn good to me! So it just happens to be that my RB25 is pumping too much oil into the head, and cannot drain it back quick enough. I didn’t want to go and pull apart a mint engine to fix this tedious issue that the RB is renowned for. So I did some research into the baffle design on RB25 cam covers. As you can see there isn’t much going on with the standard setup, there is a big opening towards the back of the cover and only a small piece of mesh to slow the flow of oil before exiting out the cam cover. The ultimate goal was to slow the oil down, to a point where a minimal amount would be able vacate the cam cover. The first thing I noticed was how small the drain holes in the baffle plate were, I did some testing and under a medium flow of fluid, the drain would struggle to release it all and overflow. I then opened the drain using a flat head screw driver, and tested again. The enlarged drains were more efficient and even handled a higher flow. Next up I designed some metal plates to baffle the cam cover. I went for three in each , one was placed at the back to restrict and slow down the flow of oil entering the breather section. The other two were welded in-between the standard mesh. Basically I wanted to reduce the oil entering past the mesh, and escaping out of the breather holes. The idea of the baffles was to keep any oil that enters in the drainage section of the OEM baffle plate. to finish it off, I filled the cam cover with fuel cell foam, to further slow the oil. It’s super dense where the drain holes are to emphasise this. For those keen on adding their own baffling, just a word of warning. You will need to drill out the plates as they are spot welded on. You’ll also need to tap the holes so you can use bolts to secure the plates. While the covers were off the Stagea, I gave them a coat of paint … black as always. The recent practice night was the test to see if the extra baffles have helped keep oil within the engine. Although the track is a lot shorter than Wakefield, I was still on or near limiter for roughly 30 seconds at a time. Anyway I checked the catch can, plumbing and the intake pipe after the event and there is no oil to be found! It'll be interesting to see if it's the same senario next time I go to Wakefield, but so far so good and I think this'll do the trick.

Momo Jet 2 steering wheel w/ carbon inserts SOLD

They'll fit whatever, as long as your spring ID is 70mm. They are off my super wagon coilovers though.

PMs replied

Oil sandwich plate (one on the right) Suits many cars, have 3/4 and M20x1.5 threads $10 RB25 S1 Throttle position sensor $20 push on drift button $5 Momo Jet 2 steering wheel w/ carbon inserts includes horn and carbon horn holder 350mm $100 Offset rack spacer 14x1.5mm (R33/S14/S15/R34 etc) $25 7 row oil cooler New $75 300zx Z32 OEM wheels 16x7.5 +45 5x114.3 $50 RB25 AN10 rocker cover fittings (these aren't push in, will need sealant/weld to keep them in) They might be RB20 (unsure if they have smaller holes) $30 Nissan Stagea S1 RS4 grille includes Stagea double unicorn badge $50 R33/r34/c34 Adjustable Upper Camber Arms plenty of camber adjustment, few scuffs but near new. $190 Tein springs Specs: 70mm ID 6kg spring rate 2x 225mm long 2x 250mm long $60 pair $100 set Located in Liverpool region, will ship at buyers expence. Adam.

Thanks for giving me the new price, I was unaware on what I paid for them when I bought them new.... I'm not here to rip anyone off, I've sold PLENTY of parts on here and various forums for many years, generally with good pricing. As ususal I am open to offers.

Controlled breathing - Part I - VIEW ON LE BLOG If you’ve owned a RB series engine long enough, and like to give it a beating. Chances are that you’ve found oil build up in your catch can, or intake pipes quick smart! For some though (like Benny) you might not have a single drop of oil in the intake pipe after a long hard day of drifting. Unfortunately I happen to have the former. So I decided to do something about it. My whole goal with the build of the Stagea was to keep the engine bay as standard looking as possible, so I really wanted to keep the standard breathing in place. After the last event I attended (it was IDA at Wakefield, December) I knew that I needed some sort of setup. The Stagea happens to have a lot of blow by. So I looked around on Ebay and found myself a cheap catch can that has a removable base and lid. This old Greddy style can wasn’t baffled though, like many small cans on the market. So I came up with a design and got to work. Anthony welded it up for me and it now rests inside the catch can. The idea was that the air must pass through the baffle in order to escape, which would mean there would be minimal oil in the outlet hose unless the can was filled past the baffle plate. Many people run steel wool wrapped in stocking inside their catch cans, and that just didn’t sit right with me. Anthony suggested I used some fuel cell foam instead so I went with that and stuffed the bottom section of the can full of it. The catch can originally came in some gay polished finished that looked tacky, and as we all know anything shiny in an engine bay is a defect these days. So I scuffed that shit up with some 800 grit sandpaper and painted it with my favorite, White Knight flat black engine enamel. With the Cursed Sundays drift day just around the corner, I got it all installed and ended up venting it to atmosphere. So did this can actually do anything? Well it’s hard to say because my magical RB25 was filling it up after a few laps! All I could do is drain it and repeat. The blow by problem was worse than I thought it originally was. It was good to be able to gauge exactly how much blow by it had though. Part II coming up soon!

Controlled breathing - Part I - VIEW ON LE BLOG If you’ve owned a RB series engine long enough, and like to give it a beating. Chances are that you’ve found oil build up in your catch can, or intake pipes quick smart! For some though (like Benny) you might not have a single drop of oil in the intake pipe after a long hard day of drifting. Unfortunately I happen to have the former. So I decided to do something about it. My whole goal with the build of the Stagea was to keep the engine bay as standard looking as possible, so I really wanted to keep the standard breathing in place. After the last event I attended (it was IDA at Wakefield, December) I knew that I needed some sort of setup. The Stagea happens to have a lot of blow by. So I looked around on Ebay and found myself a cheap catch can that has a removable base and lid. This old Greddy style can wasn’t baffled though, like many small cans on the market. So I came up with a design and got to work. Anthony welded it up for me and it now rests inside the catch can. The idea was that the air must pass through the baffle in order to escape, which would mean there would be minimal oil in the outlet hose unless the can was filled past the baffle plate. Many people run steel wool wrapped in stocking inside their catch cans, and that just didn’t sit right with me. Anthony suggested I used some fuel cell foam instead so I went with that and stuffed the bottom section of the can full of it. The catch can originally came in some gay polished finished that looked tacky, and as we all know anything shiny in an engine bay is a defect these days. So I scuffed that shit up with some 800 grit sandpaper and painted it with my favorite, White Knight flat black engine enamel. With the Cursed Sundays drift day just around the corner, I got it all installed and ended up venting it to atmosphere. So did this can actually do anything? Well it’s hard to say because my magical RB25 was filling it up after a few laps! All I could do is drain it and repeat. The blow by problem was worse than I thought it originally was. It was good to be able to gauge exactly how much blow by it had though. Part II coming up soon!

hullo

No longer needed.

SOLD PENDING!

I'm on the hunt for a R33 S2 automatic rear diff. I want the ABS and 4.3 gearing. Might be persuaded to a S1 model if you know where I can get ABS half shafts. shoot me a PM Adam.

open to offers.

open to offers, they offer plenty of camber adjustment.

Ok actual photos finally!

And? $400 for the front and rear vs $564

Not 100% sure, but if it has a similar layout to how the RB25 factory cooler piping, I don't see it being too much of an issue.

Random Snap - Close call This photo popped up late last night on Facebook, captured by GottaStayRare. It was taken back in December when I took the Stagea to Driving Sports last north circuit drift day. The Stagea was kinda sketchy to drive, it was the first time I’ve drifted it with all the extensive work carried out completed shortly before this event. Over the day I was building confidence and manjiing everywhere I could pretty much cause it was just too laggy to do anything solid with. Anyway half way through the day just after turn 4 I came over the crest and the Stagea straightened up, heading straight for the wall. I thought I was going to hit for sure but the boat pulled up in time … just. Lets just say I didn’t go trying that again for a while, haha.

Random Snap - Close call This photo popped up late last night on Facebook, captured by GottaStayRare. It was taken back in December when I took the Stagea to Driving Sports last north circuit drift day. The Stagea was kinda sketchy to drive, it was the first time I’ve drifted it with all the extensive work carried out completed shortly before this event. Over the day I was building confidence and manjiing everywhere I could pretty much cause it was just too laggy to do anything solid with. Anyway half way through the day just after turn 4 I came over the crest and the Stagea straightened up, heading straight for the wall. I thought I was going to hit for sure but the boat pulled up in time … just. Lets just say I didn’t go trying that again for a while, haha.

If anyone is after some swaybars, I'm selling mine ... I want to go slightly bigger. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/421211-nsw-whiteline-sway-bars/

Those are exactly what mine look like, but my ends are silver not black.