Run-It-Hard

replied! Gear knob sold pending.

Got a few parts of my recent purcahse that I don't want. Nismo gearknob, same as above. Great condition near new. $50 R33 skyline mudflaps set, painted dark metalic gray. $50 KTS rack ends (tie rods) with built in spacer, offers more lock for teh skidz. Have 2 sets avaliable $100 new, $80 slightly used. Located in Liverpool region, happy to ship at expense.

Tried to PM, inbox must be full. Interested in swaybars, let me know price.

yes series 1

Just found out, these are Speedline Mistrals.

Willing to separate S2 rear spoiler?

Alright, got a new car and I'm not too keen on the wheels it came with. Brand: Speedline Model: 5 spokers (can't find model name) Tyres: Federal 595 RSR 215/40R17 NEAR NEW Bridgestone Turanza ER3000 225/55R17 legal tread Set PCD: 5x114.3 Diameter / Width / Offset:17x9 +25 Location: Liverpool Willing to Ship: At buyers expense Price: $1200 ono They are in good condition, one looks like it's had a fight with a gutter so the lip is slightly buckled. Previous owner said it's been like that for a few months now and car drives fine. Change the rear tyres, get that lip fixed ($100-150) and you'll have a boss set of wheels. Only has 2 centre caps, personally I think they look better without them but meh. PM if interested.

no longer for sale!

Some quick iPhone pics of the Stageas current state. Needs a wash and all that jazz but you get the idea.

I've been torn whether to do this for a while now, so I'm going to let fate decide. On the market is my Nissan Stagea, I'm sure would of heard about this car by reading the build thread on this forum. Or seeing it in action at Eastern Creek. I bought this car back in March 2011 as a complete stocker. Since then I have spent countless amounts of cash, and time on it. Spec sheet: Nissan Stagea WGNC34 Spec Sheet Model - 1996 Gray Nissan Stagea RS4 Series 1 DAYZ version 95xxxkms 12 months Rego! Power: 315hp/235kw on 18psi (last dyno run with restrictive intercooler, probably around 260kw now at 20psi) Engine: Standard RB25DET Gates Racing timing belt Gates Racing water pump Turbo setup: Kando TD06H-20G 10cm Turbocharger Aeroflow turbo lines Turbosmart 40mm Compgate Standard exhaust manifold, modded for external gate Screamer - plumb back hybrid pipe 3 inch metal intake pipe 3a Racing black air filter ECU: Haltech E11V2 Standalone computer Haltech 3 bar map sensor Fuel: Highflowed OEM injectors Walbro 255LPH lift pump 1 litre surge tank Bosch 044 fuel pump Ignition: NGK BCPR7ES Spark plugs Cooling: Run It Hard! oil cooler kit Aeroflow oil cooler fittings Power steering cooler HKS Type S intercooler kit ASI 42mm radiator GKTECH top radiator hose with sensor fitting ASI lower radiator hose Nismo 62 degree thermostat Oil control: 1L catch can with Run It Hard! Baffles Run It Hard! triple baffle RB25 cam covers Exhaust: Run It Hard! 3 inch dump pipe w/ flex joint Hooker Aero Chamber Muffler Run It Hard! Blast pipes Run It Hard! 3 inch exhaust (for track) NISMO rear muffler (for street) Dahtone Racing de-cat pipe Transmission/drivetrain: Removed front shaft Nismo clutch pivot Nismo gearbox mount HEL braided clutch line R32 GTR gearbox PUSH TYPE 79xxxkm R33 clutch pedal R33 clutch master cylinder R33 clutch slave modified brake pedal GKtech Solid shifter bush NPC 10inch 5 puk sprung centre carbotic button clutch Nismo 5kg billet flywheel Diff: S13 R200 non ABS housing Viscous LSD 4.08 final 5 bolt half shafts 5 bolt drive shafts with thicker boots Suspension/Chassis: RS4 front strut brace solid subframe risers S14 rear subframe Tein Superflex Wagon coilovers Swift racing 12kg springs front *Z70-178-120* Swift racing 10kg springs rear *Z70-229-010* Cusco front upper camber arm Adjustable tension/castor rod GKTech V2 camber arms GKTech V2 toe arms OEM boxed traction arms Cusco OS type rear strut brace Whiteline 22mm front sway bar whiteline 24mm rear sway bar GK tech solid diff bushes Modified link arm, bearing carrier raised 40mm Braking: R33 GTS-T Calipers** RDA slotted rotors front RDA slotted rotors rear Bendix ultimate pads front Bendix ulitmate pads rear HEL braided brake lines R33 GTS-T Handbrake setup** GKTech brake master cylinder stopper Exterior: DAYZ front bumper DAYZ side skirts DAYZ rear spoiler DAYZ rear lip Nissan Altima Clear front indicators Clear side indicators Kouki tail lights Rolled & Pumped guards Debadged rear hatch LO-11-VO number plates NA grille M35 Stagea rear wiper Interior: Daikei boss kit Sparco style 350mm leather steering wheel GK tech black drift button GK tech black handbrake cover R32 GTR driver seat R32 GTR passenger seat Series 2 Manual console Series 2 manual shifter surrond Audio: Pioneer DEH-3350UB Head unit Pioneer TS-A1674S 6 inch speakers Instrumentation: Greddy profec B spec II boost controller Race tech 52mm oil pressure gauge Race tech 52mm oil temp gauge Race tech 52mm water temp gauge Race tech 52mm boost gauge Run It Hard! flat gauge slot panel NOTES: Pictures aren't up to date, I will get some new pictures of what the Stagea looks like this weekend, it's pretty much how it is now in those drifting photos. The body has a few scratches and dings, most from the previous owners but some within my ownership too. Paint is in good condition, no fade, no missing clear coat etc. Interior is good, GTR seats are a little worn, but standard front seats are shmick cluster plays funny buggers, the original one died last year and will be included in the sale so new owner can get it fixed if they wish. the rear guards aren't the greatest but do the job. As you can see in the pictures above. The wheels on the car are currently Euro line mismatch, this is how the car will be sold. It's also permanent RWD and ABS has been disconnected. Obviously this car has been built to my needs, and has been built with the intention of drifting. If you're after the following: Somewhat practical (depending on what height you set it at) under the radar (cops don't bat an eyelid ... unless your on gate) different (S and R chassis are so overrated) Then you better get in touch with me! Jokes aside, if someone takes it off my hands cool. If not then I will keep it and find another way to kill my debts. Tell em the price son! I'm chasing $16,000. I am slightly negotiable, very slightly. If you've read this whole listing and happy with what you see, feel free to send me a PM. Please, no time wasters and no I will not be parting out. Will come with some standard parts, shocks/springs, seats etc. There's probably more info that I've missed, so yes PM me if you are interested. Adam.

Open to offers.

They are good, just can't use it on any of my cars Bump!

Maybe didn't run enough oil either. I had oil pressure drop in my car on full boost with about 5 litres, added a extra litre and I have no more issues. Just thought about it, doubt it would be the same problem. Probably just got happy on limiter for too long lol.

The quest for more – Part III - VIEW ON THE BLOG After the discoveries that my original R33 knuckle conversion plan needed more work. I went back to the drawing board and weighted up other options. It wasn’t until I put a Stagea/GTR knuckle and R33 knuckle side by side where I started getting fresh ideas. The main issue was the fact that the 4WD LCA uses completely different mounting system to RWD. I thought about things like adding some sort of ball joint, but with the LCA being a cast piece and not much room to do so, I scrapped that almost instantly. So then I thought some more, and looked closer at both knuckles. Sooner or later I finally came up with something that should work and be quite effective. It essentially consists of merging the 4WD knuckle into the R33 piece. The LCA mounting point will be cut and welded underneath the LCA mount on the R33 knuckle. The spindle from the 4WD unit will also make its way over. Which will mean this will be a direct drop in part. (The spindles on the 4WD unit are larger, thus needing different bearings between knuckles). There happens to be a difference in height between 4WD and RWD knuckles, so I’ve requested for steering arm point to be as low as possible. That paired with the LCA mount underneath the RWD section, should bring it near the original 4WD knuckle height, (RWD is significantly shorter). But with the hub roughly 20mm higher, correcting roll centre to some degree. All the knuckles are on their way to JDI Fabrication, for Jake to work his magic. Once they come back, they’ll make their way into the Stagea. Where I’ll need to design a bump stop and figure out what to do with my brake lines. I’m expecting to set up the Stagea for some pretty crazy lock. So far it looks like I have all the ingredients to do so. The 4WD subframe is quite an interesting piece, and appears to offer more inner clearance than RWD versions out of the box. It also appears that the steering rack is quite a bit closer to the LCA on the 4WD subframe (top) compared to RWD (bottom). Which could potentially mean I shouldn’t have any issues with going over centre/binding. Everything seems super promising on paper, I can’t wait to see how well this actually goes down.

The quest for more – Part III - VIEW ON THE BLOG After the discoveries that my original R33 knuckle conversion plan needed more work. I went back to the drawing board and weighted up other options. It wasn’t until I put a Stagea/GTR knuckle and R33 knuckle side by side where I started getting fresh ideas. The main issue was the fact that the 4WD LCA uses completely different mounting system to RWD. I thought about things like adding some sort of ball joint, but with the LCA being a cast piece and not much room to do so, I scrapped that almost instantly. So then I thought some more, and looked closer at both knuckles. Sooner or later I finally came up with something that should work and be quite effective. It essentially consists of merging the 4WD knuckle into the R33 piece. The LCA mounting point will be cut and welded underneath the LCA mount on the R33 knuckle. The spindle from the 4WD unit will also make its way over. Which will mean this will be a direct drop in part. (The spindles on the 4WD unit are larger, thus needing different bearings between knuckles). There happens to be a difference in height between 4WD and RWD knuckles, so I’ve requested for steering arm point to be as low as possible. That paired with the LCA mount underneath the RWD section, should bring it near the original 4WD knuckle height, (RWD is significantly shorter). But with the hub roughly 20mm higher, correcting roll centre to some degree. All the knuckles are on their way to JDI Fabrication, for Jake to work his magic. Once they come back, they’ll make their way into the Stagea. Where I’ll need to design a bump stop and figure out what to do with my brake lines. I’m expecting to set up the Stagea for some pretty crazy lock. So far it looks like I have all the ingredients to do so. The 4WD subframe is quite an interesting piece, and appears to offer more inner clearance than RWD versions out of the box. It also appears that the steering rack is quite a bit closer to the LCA on the 4WD subframe (top) compared to RWD (bottom). Which could potentially mean I shouldn’t have any issues with going over centre/binding. Everything seems super promising on paper, I can’t wait to see how well this actually goes down.

bump $80 shipped anywhere in Australia FIRM.

Going to up my front sway bar size, so no need for this one anymore. BNF27Z – 22mm front adjustable sway bar Been in the car for about 8 months, makes a great difference compared to OEM. Comes with whiteline bushes too, uses standard end links. I paid $220 or somehting, I want $150 FIRM! will ship for an extra $20 Australia wide. Located in Cabramatta Adam.

bump!

THE QUEST FOR MORE - PART II - VIEW ON THE BLOG I’m back tracking a bit here but here goes. My modified arms had returned from JDI Fabrication in Melbourne. I was eager as hell to see how they turned out, so as soon as they arrived I dropped everything to open the boxes up. Everything just ozzed quality, the cuts, the welds … I’m super happy with the outcome. Lets have a look at everything shall we? First up is JDI’s R33 Skyline knuckle, which happens to be the same that Benny is now running. With most cut and shuts the tie rod point is cut down, and shortened at a slightly different position. This is generally to reduce Ackerman. This means more lock, with less turns of the steering wheel, and the trailering wheel to be similar with the leading wheel. The knuckles have been braced to ensure strength too. The bearing carrier on the link arm was raised 30mm, and heavily braced as per my request. These measurements have worked out perfect. The LCA is a nice piece of work. With a metric threaded rose joint, capable of extending up to 40mm. The boxed underside for strength, and the bump stop was removed for more lock gain. Jamie also made me LCA adaptor mounts to suit free of charge. Talk about service! With the Stagea half apart, I did a rough mock-up to see if my theory’s would be successful. As is they could be a good option if my car was higher, but right now more work is needed. The LCA makes contact with the chassis for a start. I now see why the GTR LCA has many bends and is designed the way it is … Nissan didn’t allow for much clearance with the 4WD subframe. One of two solutions is to cut down the kink from the LCA so it is flat with the rest of the design. This would allow roughly 15-20mm more clearance. Another way to add more clearance would be to mount the rose joint on a slight angle. The second solution was converting the LCA ball joint, to a rose joint setup with an added spacer to push the LCA down to a more acceptable angle. The castor rod lines up to the R33 LCA, but needs to be extended roughly 40mm. Finally the subframe doesn’t offer much room for the rack end. I’ve now figured out why I keep bending them! So I’ll probably end up cutting/bracing a section for the rack end to clear. Though in the above photo it appears that with the tie rod end being spaced down, it may avoid hitting the subframe. This is something I’m glad I noticed now. Once I finally get all my gear in, I’ll need a 90 degree bend with a banjo bolt on my brake line to offer clearance, otherwise shit could get messy stat! Cutting part of the sway bar mount is an option, but I don’t think it’ll be a good idea due to the design of it. Though I could get another piece made or brace it. So is the R33 front conversion do-able? Yes it is, all that’s really needed is the castor rod to be extended and the LCA re-modified. If I went the Ikeya Formula style LCA that could do the job too and would probably be a better option. However, I have abandoned going down this path. As I have just thought of a much simpler way to go about this. Stay tuned for part III!

THE QUEST FOR MORE - PART II - VIEW ON THE BLOG I’m back tracking a bit here but here goes. My modified arms had returned from JDI Fabrication in Melbourne. I was eager as hell to see how they turned out, so as soon as they arrived I dropped everything to open the boxes up. Everything just ozzed quality, the cuts, the welds … I’m super happy with the outcome. Lets have a look at everything shall we? First up is JDI’s R33 Skyline knuckle, which happens to be the same that Benny is now running. With most cut and shuts the tie rod point is cut down, and shortened at a slightly different position. This is generally to reduce Ackerman. This means more lock, with less turns of the steering wheel, and the trailering wheel to be similar with the leading wheel. The knuckles have been braced to ensure strength too. The bearing carrier on the link arm was raised 30mm, and heavily braced as per my request. These measurements have worked out perfect. The LCA is a nice piece of work. With a metric threaded rose joint, capable of extending up to 40mm. The boxed underside for strength, and the bump stop was removed for more lock gain. Jamie also made me LCA adaptor mounts to suit free of charge. Talk about service! With the Stagea half apart, I did a rough mock-up to see if my theory’s would be successful. As is they could be a good option if my car was higher, but right now more work is needed. The LCA makes contact with the chassis for a start. I now see why the GTR LCA has many bends and is designed the way it is … Nissan didn’t allow for much clearance with the 4WD subframe. One of two solutions is to cut down the kink from the LCA so it is flat with the rest of the design. This would allow roughly 15-20mm more clearance. Another way to add more clearance would be to mount the rose joint on a slight angle. The second solution was converting the LCA ball joint, to a rose joint setup with an added spacer to push the LCA down to a more acceptable angle. The castor rod lines up to the R33 LCA, but needs to be extended roughly 40mm. Finally the subframe doesn’t offer much room for the rack end. I’ve now figured out why I keep bending them! So I’ll probably end up cutting/bracing a section for the rack end to clear. Though in the above photo it appears that with the tie rod end being spaced down, it may avoid hitting the subframe. This is something I’m glad I noticed now. Once I finally get all my gear in, I’ll need a 90 degree bend with a banjo bolt on my brake line to offer clearance, otherwise shit could get messy stat! Cutting part of the sway bar mount is an option, but I don’t think it’ll be a good idea due to the design of it. Though I could get another piece made or brace it. So is the R33 front conversion do-able? Yes it is, all that’s really needed is the castor rod to be extended and the LCA re-modified. If I went the Ikeya Formula style LCA that could do the job too and would probably be a better option. However, I have abandoned going down this path. As I have just thought of a much simpler way to go about this. Stay tuned for part III!

cruised with a silver S2 on cumberland highway last night for a bit. Around 7pm. Has a big kit on it, maybe Takeros or Dolphin or something.

Rocking roof racks - view on the blog I’ve had a few Stagea owners ask me about my Thule roof racks, and although I’ve been meaning to do a post about them it’s always slipped my mind when its crunch time. I originally bought these for the Raleigh Raceway matsuri trip late last year. As I needed some way of carrying my spare wheels/tyres up. I didn’t go to that event in my Stagea, but we chucked them on Benny’s series 2 and definitely came in handy. Anyway my main reason for these was to be able to carry tyres on the roof, and other stuff if I needed to. Benny and I headed down to a place called Roof Rack World in Artarmon. They measured everything up and fitted the Thule gear onto the Stagea. It was all in stock except the fairing, but they went to their supplier and nabbed one. Service was excellent so I’d defiantly check them out if you’re in the market for some. So now for what everyone has been waiting for … the part numbers! •Front spoiler (Fairing) LC871XT •Rail mount foot pack RT757 •Aero bar pack 120cm GL861 If I recall, I am pretty sure the footpack and bar lengths are similar if not the same to the Toyota RAV4. There they are finally, sorry for holding out for so long. I had to go through all my paper work and find the part numbers haha.

Rocking roof racks - view on the blog I’ve had a few Stagea owners ask me about my Thule roof racks, and although I’ve been meaning to do a post about them it’s always slipped my mind when its crunch time. I originally bought these for the Raleigh Raceway matsuri trip late last year. As I needed some way of carrying my spare wheels/tyres up. I didn’t go to that event in my Stagea, but we chucked them on Benny’s series 2 and definitely came in handy. Anyway my main reason for these was to be able to carry tyres on the roof, and other stuff if I needed to. Benny and I headed down to a place called Roof Rack World in Artarmon. They measured everything up and fitted the Thule gear onto the Stagea. It was all in stock except the fairing, but they went to their supplier and nabbed one. Service was excellent so I’d defiantly check them out if you’re in the market for some. So now for what everyone has been waiting for … the part numbers! •Front spoiler (Fairing) LC871XT •Rail mount foot pack RT757 •Aero bar pack 120cm GL861 If I recall, I am pretty sure the footpack and bar lengths are similar if not the same to the Toyota RAV4. There they are finally, sorry for holding out for so long. I had to go through all my paper work and find the part numbers haha.

No longer need these LCAS for my Stagea. They have had a rose joint added and are able to be adjusted roughly 40mm longer than OEM. The bottom has also been boxed for strength. The OEM bump stop has been removed too for more lock. These were modified by JDI Fabrication in Melbourne. Can be used on R33/R34s as is, or S14/S15 and maybe even S13 if you change the ball joint that bolts to the knuckle. The only thing needed is some adaptors/spacers made so these bolt into the LCA slot, I don't have these as I was going to mount it a different way. I'm after $300 ono Located in Liverpool region, Will ship at buyers expense. Adam.

MORE SOUTH CIRCUIT ACTION - VIEW ON THE BLOG The ARDC announced a week prior to the last South circuit event, that the competition was cancelled and will resume to be a practice day. Our original plan was to go to the Wakefield Matsuri which is coming up in a few days, but we figured we’d hit up SC once again. Kinetic Imagery was out and about again and managed to get a Vid of Benny and I in tandem, its bloody crazy how small his R33 looks next to the Stagea. Eiji from Team Redstage made the trek from the ACT to check out the South circuit, he got plenty of coverage of the Stagea too. Benny was killing it, laying down solid runs consistently. Starting to get ballsy on the first corner too … he managed to tap the barrier with his rear bumper, which resulted in it flying away haha. I wish I could say the same thing about myself. I was pretty sketchy most of the day and finally started getting some good runs down towards the end of the event. I need to work on my entry to the first corner a lot more too. It took me a while, but I managed to convince Julie to bring the S14 out and try the South circuit. She was a little bummed that we are no longer going to Wakefield, but luckily she enjoyed herself and considering it’s her first time out, she destroyed it! I would have thought the Stagea would behave and let me just focus on drifting, but it wasn’t ment to be. In the morning it started popping out the dip stick, something it’s never done before. Puzzled to say the least, I gave Anth a call and he told me to vent the catch can. After I did this all was well until I had a glimpse of the oil pressure gauge coming up to the first corner. It was dropping from 80PSI down to 20-30PSI on full boost. I babied it for a few laps just to see exactly what was going down. It was dropping consistently and only near full boost. So I kept going and hoped for the best. The Stagea survived the day and is running like a champ. When I got home I had a look at my previous videos from the South circuit and it was dropping pressure too. It seems some GTR owners have had the same problem, and their remedy was to over fill the oil by roughly 1 litre. I used to do this but I think I stopped after the oil cooler install. Hopefully that’ll fix it. I’d love to get my R33 front suspension together before the next day, or even just a wheel alignment and straight tie rods. I’ve been driving with bent rods for 3 maybe 4 events now. I’ve finally figured out why they bend too, which I shall touch on soon. Thanks to the photographers for the coverage!