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megzz

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Posts posted by megzz

  1. can you track down a pic of the oil feed? if you can get a hold of a manual it will show it

    I have the Nissan workshop manual but it doesn't detail the oil flow /path it just shows how to assemble oil pump etc.

    Here's a photo of it

    post-84181-0-96909000-1369099208_thumb.jpg

    I got this from the oil control thread its for an RB26 though

    post-84181-0-19310900-1369099313_thumb.jpg

    How do you guys troubleshoot a blocked oil gallery - with drilling as a last resort as the block as it has already been cleaned and assembled...

  2. Hi Guys,

    Does anyone know where in the oil system does the VCT feed, feed oil from? i.e where does the feed tap into the rest of the system? if possible could you highlight it on a photo for me? Its hard for to now that the engine is partially built.

  3. So I drilled feed with the top of the block facing down (I used a bit smaller than the hole size so it didn't cut any metal) and some oil dried up like jelly came out. The feed seems free now and I can get a pick in there but compressed air still doesn't come out of the feed.

    I've tried blow air through various spots including both oil filter ports and the oil pump port but i get nothing from the front VCT feed!

  4. I'm in the process of rebuilding my 25. Just looking at my VCT oil feed, I stuck a pick into it and it only went in a max of 2mm deep. Is this normal, does the oil feed straight up into the gallery from the bottom of the block or does it 45deg into it?

    Hopefully this makes sense, I want to make its not blocked because VCT wasn't working when the motor was last running.

    post-84181-0-92728400-1367539826_thumb.jpg

  5. I cut a bit too much meet off one of my 2nd (scraper) ring so I am only really after the one ring to suit CP pistons with 86.5mm bore (3.406)

    Let me know if you have one or if you can recommend any where that stocks them. I'm located in Ryde, Sydney, 2112

    Thanks

  6. Ok, for turbo and pump fuel applications only I use the bore multiplied by 0053 thou measurement, PROVIDED the bore finish is suitable for the ring type. The above measurement is in inches/thou and relevant only to the supplied cp-Carrillo ductile moly combo rings generally supplied by the manufacturer. If using full moly rings or a rh8 style ring it's different again. I suggest it's gapped by someone who knows what they are doing as its a time consuming process that is easily done wrong. Pm me for further info if you like, but be warned it may take a day or two for a reply.

    Cheers, allan

    Cheers guys. I'm having a mate of mine who familiar with building engines do the gappings with me, though i just wanted to recommend him the gap sizes as he doesn't do a lot of RB's.

    Another question - Is measuring the bores and numbering the pistons to suit each bore still crucial with today's quality of pistons? Do Pistons vary that much size that could potentially cause issues? Well on a car that will make around 300kw's anyway?

    r33_racer: I've read a few of your post's and i already know what you are going to say!

  7. I'm rebuilding my RB25 with 86.5mm 9:1 comp CP Pistons. CP recommends the top ring = Bore x.0055" and the 2nd ring .004-.008 bigger than top. (where as in older thread CP recommended the top ring = .0065" or there abouts)

    My question is, is CP's current recommendation safe to use to avoid the breathing issues that they were previously known for or should I still am for a tighter gap? (Will be fitting oil restrictors as well.)

    My setup should see a max of 300kw with a hypergear G3 running 18-20 psi. Street and track use.

    I've search over the last few days but the threads I found are few years old now and it's quiet possible that ring materials have changed so its probably time for a new one.

    Cheers

  8. Engine/Car: R31/RB25DET

    Type of failure:

    Cracked piston oil glands in cylinder 2 and 4 (or maybe it was 5)

    Factors influencing the failure:

    Not really sure as the car was fine when it was running the stock turbo at 11 psi.

    Once I upgraded the turbo to a Hypergear G3 it lasted a month. 18psi was probably major factor as well as not really knowing the history of the engine.

    no sign of leaning out

    State of tune of the engine:

    tune was a month old, had it done after i fitted a Hypergear G3 etc.

    Suspension and tyres:

    bc Coilovers, Cheap bobjane tyres

    Oil used and service interval:

    Motul 15w, changed regularly

    General comments:

    It let go when I was at the drags, I wasn't going to hard on it cos I was still monitoring it and making sure everything was ok.

    blow by was a massive issue once I fitted that turbo. Though it was still drivable it was burning oil because of low comp in #2.

    Lessons learned:

    leave it stock unless you're prepared to spend $$$ chasing power.

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